TOYS FAQ - The New Noobie questions thread

[chyll2]

acetone is deadly to plastic. it is a cheap plastic cement alternative.

I am not sure on where the NUNS logo is, but I will always try alcohol and cotton swab first

If it does not work I will probably try to sand it off provided that:

1. The marking is on non painted plastic

2. There is no adjacent marking or painted area

I would sand it though with 1000 grit to remove the marking in one direction, move up to 1500 perpendicular to the previous direction then last would be 2000 grit (perpedicular to the previous sanding or the same as 1000 grit) I will do it uniformly without applying too much pressure. This will achieve a very flat or matte area where the marking used to be which will lead to another problem that needs fixing

[no3Ljm]

acetone is deadly to plastic. it is a cheap plastic cement alternative.

*snip

Thanks chyll2. Edit my earlier post advising not to use Acetone.

[Murphy]

Thanks for the help no3ljm and chyll2, ill try alcohol and cotton.

[nedavis197408]

I am looking to purchase a Yamato vf-11c as well as a vf-19f and Vf-17d. Already have the vf19s, vf17s, and Vf-19 Fire Valks. Looking for reasonable priced. Please contact me.

Nedavis.swipe@hotmail.com.

Also, want to add sticker for HUD in cockpits of listed fighters as well as my Bandai vf25s, 29s, and yf-30. Anyone have prints?

Thanks again. Big fan of sight..

[chyll2]

I got a junk Strike VF-1A in yahoo japan and received it. I bought it for the Strike parts (which the condition is fairly good) but the main valkyrie has yellowed. I plan to paint it later on so the first step is remove the paint. Anyone know if leaving it swimming in alcohol will help remove it or do I need a stronger chemical?

And in the talk of aesthetic, I have an unpainted VF-1A (the reason I got those strike parts) but the Canopy has a small tint of yellowing. I tried to polish it (along with the seamline removal) but I never get to see it to return to its normal clear color. I currently have clear red and blue paint, what do you supposed is the better color to go along a mostly GRAY valkyrie? (I can also combine both to have a purple tint)

[no3Ljm]

I got a junk Strike VF-1A in yahoo japan and received it. I bought it for the Strike parts (which the condition is fairly good) but the main valkyrie has yellowed. I plan to paint it later on so the first step is remove the paint. Anyone know if leaving it swimming in alcohol will help remove it or do I need a stronger chemical?

And in the talk of aesthetic, I have an unpainted VF-1A (the reason I got those strike parts) but the Canopy has a small tint of yellowing. I tried to polish it (along with the seamline removal) but I never get to see it to return to its normal clear color. I currently have clear red and blue paint, what do you supposed is the better color to go along a mostly GRAY valkyrie? (I can also combine both to have a purple tint)

Hey chyll2. Looking forward to your VF-1 project.

I have some ideas on your questions based on what I saw from some old videos from Japanese GunPla masters at YouTube. Don't ask about what channel/user since I forgot. Hehehe.

About leaving the valk with alcohol, I don't think that's a good idea since some parts have metal/diecast in it. Not sure if it will affect on the metal. But if it's white valk, then you just want to remove the painted stripes and tampo, correct? You can just use some cotton swabs and alcohol, I guess. (Again, correct me if I'm wrong here my dear fellow MWers. )

As for the canopy did you use Tamiya Compound? From what I remember on the videos is that he just used the compound and made the canopy glossy again. Remember that this is after he sanded the seam line on the canopy. So I guess that will help restoring the canopy. For gray valk, can I suggest a light/washed yellow gold tint instead?

QUESTION

Ok, I have some few noob questions as well related to our valk. I started/tried using Tamiya Accent Panel Wash directly on Alto's Tornado Parts and somehow I like what I'm seeing. I didn't gloss topcoat the valk before applying the wash. I just cleaned the parts with light mild soap and damp cloth. Question would be is:

1. Is it ok if I didn't apply topcoat afterwards since I'm planning on transforming the valks from time to time. Would the panel wash will still remain intact w/out topcoat?

2. If I also applied some waterslide decals on the valks, would it still be ok to not to apply topcoats? But I'm planning on using MicroSet/Sol on the said decals. Reason is the same as I would love to transform the valk from time to time.

I'm not so sure if the topcoats will get scratched when the valks are transformed since some of the transforming parts are too close with each other.

Anyways, thanks in advance.

[chyll2]

@no3ljm

ill try the cotton swab and alcohol then

for the canopy, i did not use any compound for it since I dont have one. I did find a way to make it glossy again after removing the seamline but the main problem is on how to remove the small yellow tint, my thinking is that while I polished the top part of the canopy, the lower part is still yellowish but I cannot really buff the underside due to the shape. I really do not know what happened to the assembly kit, but all plastic are pristine white but the clear parts got small tint of yellowing. As for your suggestion, I am not sure what kind of brand of paint do I look for a clear gold. I am currently looking on how to do that kind of clear metallic tint found in real cars/planes.

for your question

1. it is completely okay since the paint is fairly resistant after curing plus it is staying in the recess of the panel lines. there will be of course fading but it will take time to completely remove it by playing (unlike pencil or graphite that gets easily removes by the slightest touch)

2. while the first question saves you from topcoating, the second one, regardless of what method of transfer/process or how good the decal is, will require sealing the decals.

topcoat can be scratched but it will mostly just look glossy or what is the underlying texture of the plastic. Letting the topcoat fully cured means that it will be more resistant than recently dried topcoat so resist transforming the toy for a few days if you ever topcoat.

plus topcoating it to satin or matt finish will make it look better

[chyll2]

just kind of curious, did anyone ever made an aftermarket, recast of VF-1 head? I am looking for 1J head

[Kanedas Bike]

just kind of curious, did anyone ever made an aftermarket, recast of VF-1 head? I am looking for 1J head

Depends on which scale and company you're looking for. There were a few aftermarket VF-1 heads available in 1/55 and 1/48 scale. Not sure if the VF-1J was among them though.

-b.

[chyll2]

yeah, i forgot the scale. I was actually referring to the yamcadia 1/60 scale.

[Kanedas Bike]

yeah, i forgot the scale. I was actually referring to the yamcadia 1/60 scale.

Gotcha, I don't want to steer you wrong but I don't think so. I would poke around the Workshop section of the forums to see if anyone made a 1J head. The other thing to consider is trying to find one of Yamato's VF-1J un-assembled kits, but those might be hard to come by.

-b.

[chyll2]

I already did search. I think no one has created a 1J head for yamcadia 1/60. Un-assembled kits are actually pricey if ever they are available.

[Cdr Fokker]

I already did search. I think no one has created a 1J head for yamcadia 1/60. Un-assembled kits are actually pricey if ever they are available.

Well, for the old V1 Yamato 1/60, they did.

(Just a bit of historical perspective...)

[Ryoma]

Hi guys,

I just received today a VF-1S Max 1/60 from Yamato. Although the item was preowned it really looks in great conditions. The only problem that i have is that the canopy is not completely trasparent but has a sort of multicolor tone. Not quite sure how to explain it, the reflection of light just seems weird, like it was made using different shades of color. Is that normal? Should i return the item? I mean i own almost 50 valks and that's the very first time i see something like this.

Thank you for taking a look at this and i apologize if the topic has been talked about already. I have to admit i have been out of collecting Macross toys for few years.

[Scyla]

It is not the rainbow colored canopy?

Like the last VF-1 in this picture from http://www.anymoon.com:

[Kanedas Bike]

Hi guys,

I just received today a VF-1S Max 1/60 from Yamato. Although the item was preowned it really looks in great conditions. The only problem that i have is that the canopy is not completely trasparent but has a sort of multicolor tone. Not quite sure how to explain it, the reflection of light just seems weird, like it was made using different shades of color. Is that normal? Should i return the item? I mean i own almost 50 valks and that's the very first time i see something like this.

Thank you for taking a look at this and i apologize if the topic has been talked about already. I have to admit i have been out of collecting Macross toys for few years.

Fair question.

It's normal for those releases, they came with what was coined a "rainbow tinted" canopy, used on earlier releases of the second version of Yamato VF-1's.

Some people have seen that tint crack (none of mine have yet) and some have removed it (not sure if they used rubbing alcohol or not). But if yours isn't cracking then you can leave as is and enjoy your new Valk.

-b.

[chyll2]

for that rainbow canopy, is there any proven way to preserve it?

[Kanedas Bike]

for that rainbow canopy, is there any proven way to preserve it?

Good question! I've never seen anyone talk about wanting to, it's either been folks (like myself) that live with it or those that have removed it.

Might be good to pose that in one of the threads where folks customize their Valkyries post - not sure if they peek their heads in this thread or not.

-b.

[Ryoma]

Thank you for all your reply. I really appreciate it.

SCYLA: Yes, mine looks like the picture you posted. You can see it better "live" but i really think it is that kind of canopy. And i am starting to see the cracks too. A lot of them. Very little but there are many. I personally don't like the rainbow canopy and i would like to change it. Is there any tutorial on how to do it? And above all, where do i find another one?

[chyll2]

Thank you for all your reply. I really appreciate it.

SCYLA: Yes, mine looks like the picture you posted. You can see it better "live" but i really think it is that kind of canopy. And i am starting to see the cracks too. A lot of them. Very little but there are many. I personally don't like the rainbow canopy and i would like to change it. Is there any tutorial on how to do it? And above all, where do i find another one?

i got a very yellowish super VF-1A with rainbow canopy. it has a severely cracked rainbow canopy that just by putting my finger below the canopy is enough to remove it. For the spot that cant be easily be removed, Alcohol and cotton is enough.

[no3Ljm]

@no3ljm

*snip*

for your question

1. it is completely okay since the paint is fairly resistant after curing plus it is staying in the recess of the panel lines. there will be of course fading but it will take time to completely remove it by playing (unlike pencil or graphite that gets easily removes by the slightest touch)

2. while the first question saves you from topcoating, the second one, regardless of what method of transfer/process or how good the decal is, will require sealing the decals.

topcoat can be scratched but it will mostly just look glossy or what is the underlying texture of the plastic. Letting the topcoat fully cured means that it will be more resistant than recently dried topcoat so resist transforming the toy for a few days if you ever topcoat.

plus topcoating it to satin or matt finish will make it look better

Hey chyll2. Sorry for the late reply. Didn't notice that you replied to my questions. Hehehe.

Ok. I always known that decals should be topcoated for protection. But my really concern is the transformation. Meaning I might or I will probably create some scratching on the topcoat when I started transforming this even if I left it for days to cure. It will definitely create scratching.

So my next question will be is, would it be safe or ok to apply topcoat via handbrush (probably thin application) just on the applied decals instead of applying topcoats via airbrush over the whole valk? Thanks again.

[chyll2]

Hey chyll2. Sorry for the late reply. Didn't notice that you replied to my questions. Hehehe.

Ok. I always known that decals should be topcoated for protection. But my really concern is the transformation. Meaning I might or I will probably create some scratching on the topcoat when I started transforming this even if I left it for days to cure. It will definitely create scratching.

So my next question will be is, would it be safe or ok to apply topcoat via handbrush (probably thin application) just on the applied decals instead of applying topcoats via airbrush over the whole valk? Thanks again.

i actually have to read back to remember what I even replied and based on what question

I would say, you can do that, provided that you can handbrush an even coating for a selected area only but wouldnt the topcoated area will stand out since if you use:

Gloss: one part will looks glossier than the rest

Satin/Matt: one part will looks more flat than the rest.

Btw, do you have airbrush? I think you can apply much more thinner coat using AB.

[no3Ljm]

i actually have to read back to remember what I even replied and based on what question

I would say, you can do that, provided that you can handbrush an even coating for a selected area only but wouldnt the topcoated area will stand out since if you use:

Gloss: one part will looks glossier than the rest

Satin/Matt: one part will looks more flat than the rest.

Btw, do you have airbrush? I think you can apply much more thinner coat using AB.

I do have an airbrush. But no time yet. Raising a kindergarten is already a handful so can't find time yet. Hahaha! And besides it's getting cold now so painting outside is not doable anymore for me if ever. And yes, I'm planning on using flat/matte finish. Well, I guess AB is the best option for thinner application, right. Just need to figure out then not to put decals near the areas that moves or twist or something so I don't need to apply topcoats on those areas.

[long time lurker]

Hi, this is my first post. I have a question and I hope you guys can help me.

I have a pre-owned Bandai VE-1 1/55. There is a pilot in the cockpit. I surfed the net to look for one similar to this but I cant find one. Is the one I have another variant of the VE-1?

[Seto Kaiba]

Hey all,

I have kind of a random newbie question as someone who's only recently started to collect DX Chogokin VFs. (Curse you, Mr March... CURSE YOUUUUUUUUUUUUU!)

's there any consensus/recommendations on a suitable display case that can fit four or five normal-sized VFs and won't break the bank? I'd be excellent if it could fit the Macross Quarter.

EDIT: Today is a bad spelling day.

Edited November 23, 2014 by Seto Kaiba

[Kanedas Bike]

Hey all,

I have kind of a random newbie question as someone who's only recently started to collect DX Chogokin VFs. (Curse you, Mr March... CURSE YOUUUUUUUUUUUUU!)

's there any consensus/recommendations on a suitable display case that can fit four or five normal-sized VFs and won't break the bank? I'd be excellent if it could fit the Macross Quarter.

EDIT: Today is a bad spelling day.

What I currently use - I know other members have this or other IKEA cases as well;

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=DETOLF+Glass-door+cabinet

Good luck!

-b.

[skullmilitia]

Quarter doesn't work really well in a Detolf though. you can get 3-4 DX valks in one cube. That's as much as Id ever try.

Then again I give one it's own cube.

[jenius]

Check Craigslist for retail/commercial displays and trophy cases. I've seen some wonderful ones come up but I don't have the space

[chyll2]

Is there someone that sells any Macross Frontier DX Chogokin Head?

Long Story:

I choose to bid on this item and won it. It was only until recently that I noticed in the picture that the head is missing. I am still asking the proxy if the seller is willing for return but in the worst case and most likely scenario that it cant be return and the head is really missing. Is there anyone know any option? I think all renewal 25 head and 29 will fit here.

http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b166268777

[Sildani]

Press your case to Kurisama here:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=37124&page=7#entry1168664

That head might look really nifty when painted to match!

[chyll2]

Press your case to Kurisama here:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=37124&page=7#entry1168664

That head might look really nifty when painted to match!

I actually posted a picture of 25E to make him interested. That head (along with C) was never seen in any material outside of master variable file.

[no3Ljm]

Hi, this is my first post. I have a question and I hope you guys can help me.

I have a pre-owned Bandai VE-1 1/55. There is a pilot in the cockpit. I surfed the net to look for one similar to this but I cant find one. Is the one I have another variant of the VE-1?

I assumed the previous owner must have put the pilot inside the cockpit. I also searched the web and found nothing that says a variant was produced with a pilot inside. I also checked jenius review site anymoon.com and found nothing or mentioned that there was a reissue or re-release with a pilot inside. So best guess would be the previous owner must have put the fig inside. Unless other members say otherwise. Hope that helps.

Question time again: For those of you who customize their 1/48 or 1/60 valks, what's the best site/website to use for custom waterslide decal? That has also an option for white ink? Thanks in advance.

[RDClip]

So I've been away from Macross fandom for quite a few years now. I just wanted to know about this Arcadia company. Are they a whole new thing or did Yamato change it's or something?

[Falcon18]

Long story short, Yamato crashed and Arcadia takes over in Yamato's place. Sort of rebranding with higher price points for the valks.

[chyll2]

Is there someone that sells any Macross Frontier DX Chogokin Head?

Long Story:

I choose to bid on this item and won it. It was only until recently that I noticed in the picture that the head is missing. I am still asking the proxy if the seller is willing for return but in the worst case and most likely scenario that it cant be return and the head is really missing. Is there anyone know any option? I think all renewal 25 head and 29 will fit here.

http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b166268777

I guess it will be charged to experience.

I am thinking, it would be easier to get a recast if I can dis-assemble the Head parts piece by piece. I just dont know where to start, was there anyone successfully dis-assembled the 25 and 29 head for their custom projects?