MickyG's Yamato VF-1S Unpainted, Unassembled Kit Build

[mickyg]

What, on my VF-1D that isn't at all related to this thread in the slightest?

Or are you referring to the 1S cockpit shot that I've got somewhere in all the other posts I've made?

Either way, thanks! I'm hoping the cocpit comes up OK when it's all completed (both the 1D model kit and the 1S toy).

[Hikuro]

Well a bit of necro posting. I've purchased one of the 30th Anni VF-1S kits. I've picked up a little paint to do a macross aria color schemed Apollo squadron unit for Chillyche's movie project.

I'm a tad worried about the rubbing though since this will be completely repainted from it's base white.

[mojacko]

great progress on the kit....i soo envy you.....i havent even started my kit....heck i just opened it once then put it back to its box.... about 2 yrs ago......lolz

[petervenkman]

Hey Mickyg your camo valk is looking good can see you have gaps in the parts that fit into the legs on the metal t bar, i had some problems with mine do u find when you fit the legs the removable cover for the air intakes doesnt stay on?

[Smiley424]

I am also resurrecting this thread in hopes that mickyg will pipe in with an update. I just started my VF-1J kit, I bought without realizing it was un-assembled (I thought it was only un-painted). A lot of good photos and tip in this and Hikuro's thread though, that you both of you.

[mickyg]

Hey guys. I'm still at it! Just haven't posted anything in a very long time.

I'll see if I can embed a few recent shots to get you all an idea of where this is at...

Here we go...

Loosely assembled after some prelim weathering:

And a word of advice to those of you attempting to do this with minimal use of the instructions, the swingbar can be installed upside down!

Right way:

Wrong way:

Ask me how I know...

I got a bit bored and more than a little impatient and have started putting decals on now. I've done more than I have pics for but here's the gist of it:

I also decided it'd be appropriate to retain some of the "Macross-ness" of the pinstripes for the engines/legs and the nose/waist joint, so masked and painted them:

And that's all I've got to show at the moment.

Check out the thread here at Zone 5, where I spend most of my time these days:

http://www.zone-five.net/showthread.php?t=19486

[caslon]

Looking good!

[valhary]

great scheme painting I love it!!!

[Hikaru1234567890]

Love the paint scheme!

[Valkyrie addict]

Gorgeous!!!

[Ignacio Ocamica]

It's turning out great! Thanks for the update.

[mickyg]

I've made a bit more progress. It's slow because I only get an hour or two every second tuesday when my wife is out. It's better than nothing and I seem to be able to use the time when I've got it.

This week's endeavors were spent on post-shading the insides of the legs. That and the arms are really the only things I had left. Unfortunately I left the arms (sort of forgot about them). And I'm not entirely sure I want to leave them gray. I have been toying with the idea of continuing the splinter camo on the surfaces that you don't see when it's in fighter mode from the bottom. I think it might look a bit less boring when in Battroid.

So here's a quick look at the parts, with my better camera this time (which is also way less forgiving than the iPhone):

Some closeups of the shading. I'm starting to get better and better at getting a paint mix that actually atomises properly. I'm not there yet, but it's improving.

A closer look at the NSAWC Emblem decals. With a light mist of Future applied to see if I can tone down the edge of the decal.

Some closeups of the ultra low viz markings that come in the Hasegawa Sonic Birds boxing (which aren't quite right but what are ya gonna do?). Seriously though, white outline for whatever that panel is? I don't get it! That Eject Warning triangle is also too small in my opinion. But the 1/48 stuff is comically large so I think this'll stay. I've seen some real jets that have small symbols so maybe it won't be too big an issue.

Can you make out the arrow that points to the panel above the intake (is this the access panel for the helping hands?)? Yeah, neither can I. It's almost exactly the same color as the gray it's on!

Here it is again, artificially highlighted with my flash and a poor exposure (and would you look at that terrible orange peel!).

A look at the other side of the forward fuselage. I still have to weather that insignia because it's a bit too cartoony for my liking.

Very loose fit for kicks.

Same deal on this insignia - too stark. I was attempting to capture a mistake I made with too much future (you can't see it in the pics, a rare example of the camera being kind).

I managed to weather the UN Navy, VF-1S and "Beware of Blast" here. The latter need a bit more, as they're black text compared to the former's gray.

Slowly but surely...

[EXO]

You did that effect with the paint with airbrush? Awesome!

[505thAirborne]

One of the best looking VF-1's so far, its detail is wicked!!

This will have a full detailed Gun Pod & weapons load right?

[mickyg]

Go back a few pages (and years!) and I think you'll see the gunpod there. But yes, the plan is to do a weapons load too (training rounds, of course!).

Thanks for watching guys!

[mickyg]

You did that effect with the paint with airbrush? Awesome!

Which one? The runny, spider spatters or the drips?

Honestly, it's a far cry from what most of the modellers here are able to achieve. It's a combination of a very dark (black) preshade, followed by the base coat, and then a final, lightened shade of the base color, heavily thinned and lightened with white, just sprayed into the centers of the panels and a few random spots here and there. The payoff is well worth the minimal investment. I still plan to hit it with something else to tie it all together. But still have to do a subtle wash too. Maybe I won't need much else?

[mickyg]

I often pull this kit out and just look at what I still have to do. This last week was no different. Often times I get caught up in the "it's too much and I don't have time" trap of any project and simply put it back in the box and on the shelf. Other times I'm more productive and try to do at least something. This week was one of those times I made some meagre progress.

You may recall a few pages/picture batches/years ago I mentioned I'd lost a part. There are two tiny pieces that attach under the ventral fins. Why Yamato molded it like this is beyond me. I'm sure there's a reason for it but it escapes me right now. Anyway, I lost one of the smaller parts.

I'd also completely forgotten about both parts altogether. Meaning they hadn't been painted or glued or even removed from the sprue. When I'd lost the part, I'd always planned to someday scratch build it. Originally, I'd intended to use some scrap styrene, thinking it'd be easier to work with and shape. Last week I got to thinking that maybe I should use some scratch ABS from the sprue the part came on. I figured it'd glue better and the plastic is actually a little bit more elastic, which made me think it'd be easier to cut and shape.

That logic may be flawed but here's what I did, with that in mind. First, I traced the part out. This part wasn't terribly hard, as the bottom is perfectly flat and lent itself well to tracing on the other scrap piece.

From there, I cut out the rough shape with my trusty Hasegawa Photo-Etch saw. I started by scribing some light cuts along the pencil marks with a hobby knife. This is enough to give the saw a bit of a guide. From there, the saw provides its own guide for a straight, sharp cut.

Another few cuts and I had the basic shape roughed out.

Which left me with this:

The part is purposely a bit too big, so I can file it down to size. I haven't worked out how I'll file/shape the triangular 3D portion that fits into the leg. This is where it's going to glue so it needs to be accurate and actually make some decent contact with the leg.

Any ideas on how best to copy this part from the mirror image twin I do have? My plan is to just trial and error it until it fits.

[Chronocidal]

Working on a piece that small, I might glue it on before shaping it. Might be difficult to blend the paint around it (unless you plan to paint the entire strakes a different color), but it'll save your fingertips a lot of grief from the sanding and filing.

[mickyg]

That'd be perfect, but the shaped part fits into the hole in the leg. I have to shape it before gluing, unfortunately. I didn't take any pics of the part I need to shape so unless you're familiar with the kit, my description is a pretty poor one.

[Chronocidal]

Oh, no, that's fine. I just forgot that there's that much of a recess in the leg to glue it into. Your earlier shots show it pretty clearly, now that I look at them again.

Reminds me of the tabs I made for my VF-25 kits to hold the wings down to the legs. They were this notched wedge shape, and I stupidly cut the sprue I was using to the proper length before sanding the tip to a slope.

Now that I look at it, you might have your work cut out for you coming up with a way to attach it. If it wouldn't mess up your paint horribly, I'd almost just say to fill in the slot, and glue it straight to the leg. It's not exactly a high-stress part, and there's very rarely any reason to move the leg strakes anyway unless you want to equip an armor set on it. Heck. If you don't mind losing the functionality, just glue that piece straight to the fin itself.

I think it's probably possible to file the piece to the right shape, but working with pieces that small can get painful.

[mickyg]

Gluing it straight to the strake-hadn't even considered that! Thanks man, I'll give that some thought.

You're absolutely right, the part won't be something I'll mess around with. Armour is not part of my plans for this valk.

You've mentioned paint twice now and I keep forgetting to address that. Honestly, I don't think it'll be an issue. I'm happy to airbrush it beforehand and mask the glue surfaces. Pity I didn't do that with the hole as well (both front and back).

I've got some Tamiya ABS glue on it's way that I hope to use on this. I'll have to remove paint in the holes so that'll be fun. I'm planning to use windex and a paint brush to spot remove the acrylic. The Lifecolor paint doesn't dissolve as quickly as Tamiya or gunze does but a few applications should do the trick.

Thanks for watching and staying with me. I'll get this done some day!

Edited August 13, 2013 by mickyg

[mojacko]

great work....what paint did you use? does paint chip when you try transforming it??? thanks!!!

[mickyg]

I'm using acrylic paint from Lifecolor for most of it. The rest is either Tamiya or Gunze and there's a bit of Alclad on the feet/exhausts.

I haven't really transformed it as it's not entirely together yet. Much of what you see is just pressed together for pictures.

While I wouldn't say the paint "chips" it definitely scratches in areas that rub. Fortunately this scheme has a bit of white in it and the underlying plastic isn't too noticeable. It's not great though.

Honestly, if I were to do it again, I'd either prime it first and still use the same paints, or even better, use lacquers. I think they'd be a lot more durable for a toy. I don't have the luxury of a dedicated area to paint in and didn't want to buy all new paints just for this project (I have many, many acrylics already). Acrylics don't smell awful and my wife tolerates me spraying them in the kitchen with a window open.

Edited August 16, 2013 by mickyg

[GU-11]

Looking good there, MickyG! Love the cammo patterns.

BTW, those shoulder "lights" seem to be especially prone to paint chipping. Even on the VF-1D Virgin Road and VF-1J Max Type, Yamato included a caution note to remind you to be careful when transforming that particular area.

As for getting better durability from your acrylic paints, Tamiya officially recommends thinning their acrylics with lacquer thinner (of the same brand, of course). You'll need a powerful spray booth and/or respirator to use lacquers indoors, though.

[mickyg]

You know, I actually bought some gunze lacquer thinner for thinning some mr Surfacer. I might try it on some Tamiya and gunze paints. Only problem is with the main camo colors, which are Lifecolor. They don't thin well with anything that isn't water based. Even straight alcohol causes them to separate into a powdery liquid sludge. I may need to experiment...

Edited August 16, 2013 by mickyg

[mojacko]

yeah i've got good results using lacquer...but it really smells awful and its really harmful to your lungs if your spraying in a non ventilated area plus if your not wearing a proper mask to protect you.

wow your spraying in the kitchen?? even thou acrylics are non toxic as to what they claim...be sure to open all your windows to ventilate the circulation of air.

[MechTech]

I'm just catchin back up with this build - it's looking great! I think the finish and colors are great looking! It's too bad you can only work on it when your wife is away. I'd be finding errands for my wife to run for me "Hey babe, I think we need more cereal, can you run to the store?" - MT

Edited August 16, 2013 by MechTech

[mickyg]

Too bad the store is only a few minutes down the road! She's out all the time but never longer than an hour or so. Unfortunately it takes about that long to set everything up and pack it away again.

Regarding fumes and inhaling them, I should point out that I've got a spray booth as well as a proper mask. This stuff's a lot of fun but not worth sacrificing your health over!

[mickyg]

Warning, and apologies up front - this is another pic intensive post!

I've managed to squeeze in a few more hours of work since the last update. High on my list of priorities is to finish the scratch built "fin wedge" as I've taken to calling it. Despite Chronocidal's excellent suggestion to just glue the part onto the bottom of the fin, ignoring the bit that sticks into the leg, I decided to challenge myself and attempt to replicate the part completely. I screwed up a few things, not the least of which was a file that slipped a few times, marring the surface pretty obviously. But overall, it works and I've learned some new tricks for the next model I need to scratch parts for.

The following photos are done with my "proper" camera setup, which consists of a 60mm macro lens. It's great for showing how bad things really look up close. You'll notice the paint spatters far more obviously. Of note to me for next time, is that it appears the spatters dried too fast. Perhaps my thinning needs a bit of help?

On to the "wedge."

First, a quick comparison with the original (opposite) part - you can see it's got the basic shape right, and certainly looks like it'll fit:




The hole this part has to sit in:




And sitting in its place:




A view of how I still could have made this fit better (gaps around the edges are pretty obvious). Also note the scratches at the sides:




I mentioned in a previous post that I deliberately made the part a bit too big, so that I could trim it down properly, against the shape of the fin itself. You can see here, there's a bit sticking out. I simply traced the edge with a sharp mechanical pencil, then used my file to shape it properly:




After trimming, the fit is OK compared to the contour of the fin. But I didn't get the height of wedge right, between the leg and the bottom of the fin. The result is a pretty obvious gap:




Here's the kit parts on the other leg for comparison:




The other side of my homemade wedge (again, note the gaps and the lack of an angle at the end, to match the fin's line):




And the "good" one on the other side for comparison:




Also worth noting is this really bad seam line on the edge of the fins:




Solution: File it down. This also gave me an excuse to shape the fins a bit from their hard angled stock configuration. It's not obvious here but the shape is now much more aerodynamic:





After this little excercise, I'm again thinking of taking Chronocidal's advice and completely ignoring the fin fold mechanism, gluing it all up, and puttying the crap out of all of it! So it looks like a solid piece and not this seem ridden mess instead. I'll sleep on it.



I've been thinking a lot about some semblance of realism on this thing and one area I need to practice on is the wing sweep. On a real swing wing aircraft, there's usually a sealing plate that makes contact with the upper and lower part of the wing (Damn! I forgot all about the lower side!). This part of the wing usually gets a lot of scraping and dirt effects that leaves a nice pattern. WM Cheng was the first person I ever saw attempt to replicate this wear and I really liked it (possibly on his VF-0S Hasegawa kit?). So I tried it out. I used 3 different colored pencils from PrismaColor (dark gray, light gray, silver) and a "blending pencil" they sell to soften the pencil lines. I didn't like the straight pencil so also followed it up with a bit of "Tamiya Weathering Set" black. The weathering set is the one that looks like cosmetics, and I used the sponge applicator side.

For the effect, I simply closed the wing down to fully swept (not Battroid swept, mind you) and positioned the tip of the pencil on the wing, and then just opened the wing up. On a real jet, you'll notice the hardest lines tend to be in areas where panels meet. I don't know if this is paint scratching or the lubricating grease squishing out between the cracks. I suspect it's the latter. Unfortunately, there are only two panel lines in this area on the toy. So I sort of made it up to keep it looking realistic.






While I was at it, I added some smudges to the area on the fuselage that usually sees a lot of hands and feet:



Still lots to do but I'm making some progress. Thanks for following and I very much appreciate your comments!

Edited August 26, 2013 by mickyg

[Chronocidal]

Ya know, I think part of the problem you've got with the fin-tab is that it's not tapered front to back like the kit one. It looks like it's actually pushing the fin out further than it should be sitting.

You did a pretty good job duplicating the part though, that sanding and filing must have been a pain. I think the only things hurting the fit now are that the surface that's against the leg isn't quite level (you'd have to sand parallel to the edge to flatten it against the leg) and the tapering.

Without going for the whole putty/repaint option, I wonder if it would be easier to just fill in the slot on the leg, then sand the fin piece down flat to fit against, and glue it straight to the leg?

Anyway, still looking beautiful, especially the wing streaks. Personal opinion, I'd go ahead and go all the way to full battroid sweep to see how far the streaks might extend, just because it looks like those rear panels along the trailing edges of the wing gloves look like they could be flexible to seal against the wing when it's swept back. And it probably couldn't hurt to imagine a few hidden panel lines on the undersides of those plates, which would leave even more streaks.

[mickyg]

I think I rushed that reply yesterday because that taper you mention was high on my list of things that I didn't get right, and I fully intended to discuss how that affected the fin. Good catch!

In hindsight, I should have used the photos to do a quick compare. I'll either go ahead with that, or simply start over again. I really am leaning very heavily to the "just glue the fin pieces together and putty all the seams" option. I don't intend to add a GBP to this (as cool as that'd look) and the folding fins are more a pain than anything. Plus, having a solid fin would go a long way to making this look a bit more realistic.

That brings me to another item I should have mentioned yesterday, the matching of the various fin parts. As well engineered as this kit is, the fin parts are not necessarily all the right size/shape to just allow me to glue it up and putty it. The "post" that the fin attaches to, is just a touch wider than the base of the fin. So if I go the glue/putty route, I'll need to file the hinge parts on the post to make it all match up correctly. Then there's the angle of the fins. I suppose if I'm relying on the post to secure everything, I can just cut the angled parts off the wedges before I glue the whole assembly to the leg. If I don't, I don't think I'll be able to just slide the fin in. I should draw diagrams of all this, as it's probably terribly confusing to anyone not familiar with how the fin attaches to the leg.

And Chronocidal, I'm not at all worried about sanding/puttying/repainting this thing in the areas around the fin. Any real aircraft gets spot touch ups all the time - if anything this will add to a convincing paint job. The fins will get repainted, it's just whether or not I can get it all done without having to repaint the area around the fin on the leg as well. And if I do, that's also fine.

Lastly, agreed on the full Battroid sweep marks. I'd debated it because I was thinking the sealing wouldn't be important for Battroid. And also because I didn't want to ugly up the wing too much. But I'll play around with it and see how it looks. And good call on the sealing plates being under the panel! I hadn't thought of that and it'd be really easy to make a few lines to make it look convincing. I might check the 1/48 model painting guides to see if there's anything represented there too (just out of curiosity). Just checked, it's exactly like the toy, as far as panel lines go. Overtechnology: removing all the extra unnecessary bits since 1999.

Edited August 26, 2013 by mickyg

[mickyg]

So, this arrived from SE Asia today:

Looks like some of my excuses for not progressing have finally ended! I've already used it on my Hikaru VF-1J that had a pylon mount on the wing break off. The stuff seems to work and as far as I can tell is not just a solvent but also incorporates a resin filler as well. You can tell because there's a glossy residue that's left over when the glue evaporates. This is a good thing for the troublesome wing pylon mounts. In my opinion, there's not near enough strength in these parts and dribbling some glue down into the recess around the post/socket thing in the wing should allow the glue to bond the mount to the wing underside. This is something that should have been done at the factory. There's nowhere near enough strength in just the two mounting points on this part.

I went a bit crazy applying it with the built in brush. I was smarter on the other wing and used a sharp pointed instrument to dab it into the holes. I should be able to sand off the residue but given the plastic's natural finish, it won't be invisible. Hindsight...

And a shot of where this will ultimately reside when it's finished:

Edited September 3, 2013 by mickyg

[Valkyrie addict]

man, this valk custom has been quite an adventure for you.

Now that you are set I hope to see it finish soon, such a nice scheme cannot be left incomplete.

[mickyg]

It won't be left incomplete. Even when I'm working on something else, I always come back to this. Glad it's something others find worth watching as well!

Next up:

• Get fins fixed up so they sit right, glued, then putty up all the seams, and painted (possibly not in that order).
• Mask tops of arms for more splinter goodness. Solid gray is boring! The bottoms of the arms will still be gray so in jet mode they will blend in with all the rest of the gray of the underside.
• Paint some of the unpainted arm parts, as they don't rub as badly as I thought they would.
• Paint/weather wheel bays and gear. Possibly add some wiring?
• Glue everything else that needs to be done (nose, lights, exhaust internals, fix up some broken parts like the backpack "flap" I recently broke...)
• Clear coats of various sheens
• More weathering (including panel lining).

As you can see, there's a pretty decent list here!

[mickyg]

I love photobucket...

Bear with me, I'll see if I can sort this out.