Official Yamato v.2 1/60 VF-1S TV Version

[BlueMax]

Sorry to be pour cold water on you guys, but I'd rather all the white plastic on the TV valks came were slightly tinted grey, just like the DYRL valks. For 1 simple reason: Yellowing.

Yellowing is way more obvious on white plastic than grey. In fact, some of you might have seen postings regarding some TV valks already showing signs of yellowing. Heck, even the GBP giftset that had the re-cycled 1Js, the color difference between the head, which had been replaced with one with grey visors, and the rest of the valk was already obvious to some. The difference in production dates was probably less than 1/2 year.

For those who want to maintain the white, maybe some anti-UV clearcoat is necessary to protect your investments

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

If I had it my way I would just have it so that Roy's valk was always grey like the 1/48 low visibility custom.

But if you want to avoid yellowing don't put it in the sun. I've done some experiments with some banpresto valks heh ...and one side is all yellow while the other side is still white just because the side facing the window was exposed to the light. Hide them in boxes forever never to be touched.

meh.. by the time they yellow you wil probably have sold it on ebay and bought version 3 vf-1 since that's all these companies want to do. (where's the variable glaug yamato?)

Anyone else here think all valks should be (in real life, not cartoon color) grey like shins valkyrie or the low visibility custom and that this should be the macross canon? I never liked white. I just think white is to show they are the good guy while the guy who uses black (ivanov) is a bad guy for story/show reasons.

Grey valks that look cool:

vf-11 cannon fodder

1/48 low visibility

urban camo GBP armor

shin's vf-0A

bright white should only be for G1 megatron and jetfire.

Edited July 13, 2010 by 1/1 LowViz Lurker

[arrow]

I agree about grey valks. They look sleeker.

[Chronocidal]

Frankly, the military hasn't had any inclination to paint aircraft anything other than grey for about 30 years now (excepting showbirds and CAG planes). There's no way anyone other than Focker should have anything other than shades of grey on his plane.

If this were real, the only accurate valk would be the Low-Vis V1.

Macross Zero actually came close to getting this right, the only planes not greyish were Focker and the anti-UN ones, which don't have the same military color standards to begin with.

The only way the colors really make any sense is if you consider that they were fighting aliens who's sensors were gonna pick them up anyway, regardless of how they paint the planes. At that point, it makes sense to paint the planes colors you'll be able to see in space, at least a little, if only to avoid collisions.

[troyness]

I,ve been waiting for a H.I. VF-1J in a light shade of gray(NOT a LV color) since the 1/60 V.2 came out!!!

Do you guys think it,s gonna happen??

[bluemax151]

Is it confirmed this one has good shoulder pins?

My shoulder pins are smooth btw.

I'm not sure about the whole production run though of course.

[Vi-RS]

Sorry to be pour cold water on you guys, but I'd rather all the white plastic on the TV valks came were slightly tinted grey, just like the DYRL valks. For 1 simple reason: Yellowing.

Yellowing is way more obvious on white plastic than grey. In fact, some of you might have seen postings regarding some TV valks already showing signs of yellowing. Heck, even the GBP giftset that had the re-cycled 1Js, the color difference between the head, which had been replaced with one with grey visors, and the rest of the valk was already obvious to some. The difference in production dates was probably less than 1/2 year.

For those who want to maintain the white, maybe some anti-UV clearcoat is necessary to protect your investments

Agreed, I wish all the V2 were some sort of light gray to begin with.

But if you want to avoid yellowing don't put it in the sun. I've done some experiments with some banpresto valks heh ...and one side is all yellow while the other side is still white just because the side facing the window was exposed to the light. Hide them in boxes forever never to be touched.

It's not only the sunlight that cause yellowing on plastic, oxidation does too. Sunlight will speed up the process, but oxidation do the work too. It's gonna have different shade of yellowing color even if you put in box. My previous V1 were stored in box in closet, but some of them were yellowing too on certain spots.

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

Ah I didn't know that. The white guys eventually get tans even in shade.

[DARKWIND]

Ah I didn't know that. The white guys eventually get tans even in shade.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

(Sorry. )

I agree about the addition of grey to the valks, it also looks awesome.

After looking at both types IMHO both are still pretty sweet.

But since both stories are official, (one being a re-tell/movie made after the other) wouldn't that make both vers. cannon?

I mean that's how I see it.

Well its wide open to interpretation/perception anyway.

[bowman]

The yellowing process can't be stopped unfortunately even when the plastic has a grey coating.

Look at the photo.

A piece of Super Nintendo’s case was chipped off accidentally at some point in the console’s recent history. Notice how the center of the case’s plastic — which hasn’t been exposed to air for very long — is still grey.

Sweat,dirt,grease from your hands, UV and oxidation cause the chemical reaction with the plastic to yellow. The ultimate protection is to seal your unit in a lead-lined, temperature-controlled, evacuated vault away from any air, radiation, visible or otherwise.

Edited July 13, 2010 by bowman

[Vi-RS]

The yellowing process can't be stopped unfortunately even when the plastic has a grey coating.

Look at the photo.

A piece of Super Nintendo’s case was chipped off accidentally at some point in the console’s recent history. Notice how the center of the case’s plastic — which hasn’t been exposed to air for very long — is still grey.

Sweat,dirt,grease from your hands, UV and oxidation cause the chemical reaction with the plastic to yellow. The ultimate protection is to seal your unit in a lead-lined, temperature-controlled, evacuated vault away from any air, radiation, visible or otherwise.

The yellowing process can't be stopped on any color of plastic, but deeper color will not show the difference significantly as oppose to white. So a light gray valkyrie, like the dyrl, will show a slower path and not noticable even over a long period of time.

You forgot one very important factor that cause the nintendo case to turn yellowing significantly, HEAT.

[eriku]

Great pics, guys. If I ever get another 1/60 it's going to be one of these. I still can't believe it took this long to get a gorgeously white TV Roy.

[Froy]

What did you make that strap from?

Aw man someone beat me to it still just where did you get that strap from?

Simple electric tape. I would like to match the color of the TV series gunstrap (wich is ligth gray if I'm not wrong) may be duct tape would do it.

[David Hingtgen]

significantly, HEAT.

That doesn't really explain why some parts stay pure grey, and some yellow severely---it's just "that batch of plastic". Some SNES stay all grey except for like the slot hinge. Some have just the top half yellow, some have just the bottom half yellow-----yet I imagine all parts were heated evenly over the years, and didn't have temperature differences exactly along the seam lines.

PS--I've always found that the cartridge themselves get the hottest of all--and I've never seen a SNES cartridge yellow.

[Vi-RS]

Simple electric tape. I would like to match the color of the TV series gunstrap (wich is ligth gray if I'm not wrong) may be duct tape would do it.

I think the question will be where did you find those tiny buckle and ring to hold the strap and plug into the gun pod. I made my gun strap from the bicycle's inner tube, but I can't find proper buckle and ring.

That doesn't really explain why some parts stay pure grey, and some yellow severely---it's just "that batch of plastic". Some SNES stay all grey except for like the slot hinge. Some have just the top half yellow, some have just the bottom half yellow-----yet I imagine all parts were heated evenly over the years, and didn't have temperature differences exactly along the seam lines.

PS--I've always found that the cartridge themselves get the hottest of all--and I've never seen a SNES cartridge yellow.

I don't know, plastic turn yellowing eventually for many reasons, it could be environment factor like sun light, heat, oil, sweat, and even the nature of the plastic itself.

[BlueMax]

That doesn't really explain why some parts stay pure grey, and some yellow severely---it's just "that batch of plastic". Some SNES stay all grey except for like the slot hinge. Some have just the top half yellow, some have just the bottom half yellow-----yet I imagine all parts were heated evenly over the years, and didn't have temperature differences exactly along the seam lines.

PS--I've always found that the cartridge themselves get the hottest of all--and I've never seen a SNES cartridge yellow.

Actually I have experiences of the Valks yellowing in different degrees, but the truth is that all plastic yellows, even clear ones, just how obvious, and how much. In the best case scenario, I had the initial release of the 1/48 Hikaru VF-1A, that after some 8 years, has yellowed significantly, though evenly. In my worst case, the initial release of the 1/60 V1 Hikaru 1A (Again?!) has its yellowing very unevenly. the landing gear doors has a way yellow-er hue than most parts, for example. Probably the composition of the different batches of ABS plastics.

White has to be the most unforgiving of all colors as obvious yellowing goes. It is just too obvious. I don't need a comparision to a newer specimen to see that it has yellowed. It is detectable just like that.

Are you sure the SNES cartridges have not yellowed? You can't really be sure until you have compared it a very recently produced cartridge. Only that way you can be sure if it has yellowed. I have a Low-vis 1/48, and while I don't detect any yellowing right now, I'm sure if I were to compare to one that has has been stored in the correct conditions Mint in the box, i 'm sure there will some some difference that I can make out. Of course you might say that the newer/ differnt batches of plastic might have a different hue, but when certain parts of the same toy/ object/ whatever starts to exhibit slightly different hues of color (like my 1/60 VF-1A), you know that is happening.

In anycase, this serves to substantiate that darker colors renders the effects of yellowing less obvious.

Edited July 14, 2010 by BlueMax

[1/1 LowViz Lurker]

IT's like toy story. When your toys know you aren't around to see them they go outside and party and then when you get back they go back into the place you left them; tricking yo into thinking they haven't gone outside. They are alive.

[bowman]

I suppose even black isn't safe from these factors, but probably less visible.

[VF-18S Hornet]

Weathered, stickered, and a few modifications. And as cool as the black feet and jet intakes were, they didn't match the anime or any pictures I've seen. So I replaced them with grey from a spare Hikaru VF-1J I have.

forgot to pull out the shoulders

Okay Rabidweezil what paint brand did you use on the missile tips and the verniers on the boosters because I am about to do the same with my Hikaru 1S Just as soon I get the stickers from takatoys. I'm afraid the Testors paints that I currently have, just won't do.

[Rabidweezil]

Okay Rabidweezil what paint brand did you use on the missile tips and the verniers on the boosters because I am about to do the same with my Hikaru 1S Just as soon I get the stickers from takatoys. I'm afraid the Testors paints that I currently have, just won't do.

Actually...it was just testors flat red

[VF-18S Hornet]

Actually...it was just testors flat red

imagine my shock they like like tamiya brand paints and the shop that sold them here in Delaware closed down for good. Okay I'll try my luck with the ones I have wish me luck, and any tips on how to do it without any splotches of paint on the missile and verniers. Plus you are good clearly you used something else for the weathering.

Edited July 15, 2010 by VF-18S Hornet

[bluemax151]

That doesn't really explain why some parts stay pure grey, and some yellow severely---it's just "that batch of plastic". Some SNES stay all grey except for like the slot hinge. Some have just the top half yellow, some have just the bottom half yellow-----yet I imagine all parts were heated evenly over the years, and didn't have temperature differences exactly along the seam lines.

If you haven't already read this

http://www.vintagecomputing.com/index.php/archives/189

The pic above is actually from that article.

Pretty sure besides the mentioned heat, oxygen, light and the chemical additives the plastic batches probably aren't consistent hence various parts/locations yellowing differently. I've got two SNES systems myself and they've experienced yellowing in drastically different degrees and locations. Same can be said for my unevenly yellowed Yamato 1/60 Ver1 Hikaru VF-1A for that matter as it's all spotty

[eugimon]

If you haven't already read this

http://www.vintagecomputing.com/index.php/archives/189

The pic above is actually from that article.

Pretty sure besides the mentioned heat, oxygen, light and the chemical additives the plastic batches probably aren't consistent hence various parts/locations yellowing differently. I've got two SNES systems myself and they've experienced yellowing in drastically different degrees and locations. Same can be said for my unevenly yellowed Yamato 1/60 Ver1 Hikaru VF-1A for that matter as it's all spotty

Right, remember it's not the plastic that is yellowing but the dyes in the plastic that is discoloring.

[Rabidweezil]

imagine my shock they like like tamiya brand paints and the shop that sold them here in Delaware closed down for good. Okay I'll try my luck with the ones I have wish me luck, and any tips on how to do it without any splotches of paint on the missile and verniers. Plus you are good clearly you used something else for the weathering.

Pretty much one coat will be enough so you shouldn't have any problems with splotches. The nuke missile tips come off...well some do easily. They are glued on, but Yamato did not use a lot of glue. They are easy to pry off with something thin like a safety razor blade. Then they need to be glued on again.

The weathering was pro-modellers wash. A while ago I would have gushed about how cool it was, but they changed the recipe of the dark wash and I don't like it at all. It took a lot of mixing to get it where I even somewhat like it.

[Graham]

Think I'm gonna have to pick up the non-FP version.

Any HK members seen it anywhere?

Graham

[derex3592]

Got mine today!!!! Guess it really WAS the last one AmiAmi had in stock....haha! Good Times! I LOVE it!!! it's different enough to like over the DYRL version! Can't wait to panel line it and use my free waterslide VF-1 decals I got from HLJ! this shall be my crowning Valk to display..(as long as I don't screw up)

[Ignacio Ocamica]

Can somebody post pictures posing it next to Roy's DYRL? VF-1S?

I don't like the TV bubble hands so I'm trying to convince myself that the change in color and the black arrow on the head justify getting this version.

Already have Roy's DYRL? Strike and his weathered VF-1S.

[derex3592]

Here ya go...sorry..was too lazy to transform em....

I was on the fence about getting this as well, but I'm glad I did!

Edited July 17, 2010 by derex3592

[Agent-GHQ]

The more I look at this, the more it reminds me of the old Takatoku VF-1S Super Valk 1/55. I also noticed the canopy does not appear to be tinted like the other 1/60s?? Can you confirm this?

[derex3592]

It's clear. As are all the other "newish" 1:60's. Yamato kindly stopped doing it after so many people bitched about it crinkling up. Only my Virgin Road has a minor case of crinkle but it is annoying. I thought I read somewhere around here there was a way to strip it off the canopy, but I can't remember where I read that..... anybody know???

[Vi-RS]

The more I look at this, the more it reminds me of the old Takatoku VF-1S Super Valk 1/55. I also noticed the canopy does not appear to be tinted like the other 1/60s?? Can you confirm this?

They have stopped doing that rainbow coating.

[Vi-RS]

Here ya go...sorry..was too lazy to transform em....

I was on the fence about getting this as well, but I'm glad I did!

For some reasons I really annoyed seeing the knee caps falling down in battroid mode.

[VF-18S Hornet]

I like your Kitchen derex, love that marble countertop; oh yeah like your two Roys too.

[Agent-GHQ]

They have stopped doing that rainbow coating.

Since when?!? That a horrible mistake as I totally dig that tint effects!

[derex3592]

I like your Kitchen derex, love that marble countertop; oh yeah like your two Roys too.

Thanks! Now if I can stop buying Yamato Toys...maybe I can make my house payments!