Gundam Plamodel Thread IV

[Hikuro]

My first airbrush was a Master G23, with a Master 2-piston 1/3gal air compressor. The compressor is sufficient, and the brush was fine until the seals began degrading. Not great, but good for a beginner. I think I picked them both up as a set from TCPGlobal for $140.

I still use the compressor, because it runs quiet, cool, and puts out more than enough air for brushing, and it has a built-in moisture trap and pressure regulator.

As for your enamel wash concerns, are you just trying to do panel washes, or like weathering washes? If you're just panel lining, thin the paint super thin with enamel thinner, but do your cleanup with lighter fluid. The enamel thinner won't damage your plastic at all, and it won't dull the finish. Also, while I can't speak to other brands, it doesn't affect the finish of Tamiya acrylics. I recommend lighter fluid for cleanup because it will strip the paint a bit more slowly, which makes it more forgiving for cleaning up excess. It's also much, much cheaper than hobby-brand thinner.

crap that's spendy equipment.

the wash is just mostly accenting more than weathering I got other stuff to do the weathering. for right now what I'm using is just stock no extra painting on a krylon matte clear coat, enamel washed and enamel thinner to wipe off excess.

in the near future I wanna get more heavy into it with what your suggesting.

[Hikuro]

Okay....so here's what I'm thinking

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KJDXHQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB

and

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BJFHAW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB

[SchizophrenicMC]

You'll regret going tankless, at least with low-end airbrush setups. Not only does the tankless 1-piston put out less air, but it pulses and has to run constantly while you're painting. Makes for difficult painting and overheating is a thing.

This is what I got though I guess the price has gone up in the last couple of years. It's a touch expensive to buy the compressor, but you really futureproof yourself with it. I don't know if I'll ever grow out of this compressor, which means I'll never have to spend more money to buy another one. If you get a tankless single piston from a cheap brand like Master, I can guarantee you'll outgrow it pretty quickly, and you'll end up buying something even more expensive, plus the tankless you got originally.

I'm not saying spend Iwata money just yet, but while I've put down my Master airbrush for better things, I still love my twin-piston compressor. This thing kicks some serious ass. And unless it breaks, which doesn't seem likely considering how trouble-free it's been, and how effortlessly it feeds my painting air needs, I doubt I'll ever replace it. Hell, now that I'm running this Eclipse at low psi, I could probably run 2 brushes on it without overextending it. And it runs at about 85dB, which isn't silent, but I can comfortably have a conversation over it, and the brush itself is louder anyway.


I don't really know anything about enamel washes for accent work, but it shouldn't affect the Krylon at all. I still recommend the naphthanol to clean it with though, because the slower reaction will give you a bit more forgiving experience until you're used to how the enamel wash goes on and comes off.

[VF-19]

Another suggestion: Get a really good airbrush, but a cheap (and noisy) oil less compressor. I'm using one I bought at a hardware store for $50, and while it is noisy as heck it does hold 100 psi in a 2 gallon tank, which means that once it is filled, it doesn't have to run for a while. As a bonus, if you need to fill your car's tires or anything else that needs a compressor, it can do double duty!

I'd rather get a quality airbrush rather than something cheap that will cause you no end to frustration.

My setup:

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420455207&sr=8-1&keywords=Badger+105

I use this airbrush for everything. Easy to use, and easy to clean. I do find the trigger is a little stiff out of the box, but that is adjustable by loosening a spring.

and this powers it:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-2-gallon-air-compressor-0587000p.html#.VKpthHsn49Y

Noisy, but dependable. I do switch my hearing-aids to "noisy bar" for noise reduction and it pretty much kills the sound reaching my ears, and damaging what hearing I have left. For everybody else, earplugs!

Of course, if you live in a situation where a noisy compressor isn't an option, do get something like one SchizophrenicMC suggested.

Whatever you do, don't get disposable cans of airbrush propellant. It will eat your wallet alive.

[Hikuro]

Another suggestion: Get a really good airbrush, but a cheap (and noisy) oil less compressor. I'm using one I bought at a hardware store for $50, and while it is noisy as heck it does hold 100 psi in a 2 gallon tank, which means that once it is filled, it doesn't have to run for a while. As a bonus, if you need to fill your car's tires or anything else that needs a compressor, it can do double duty!

I'd rather get a quality airbrush rather than something cheap that will cause you no end to frustration.

My setup:

http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420455207&sr=8-1&keywords=Badger+105

I use this airbrush for everything. Easy to use, and easy to clean. I do find the trigger is a little stiff out of the box, but that is adjustable by loosening a spring.

and this powers it:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-2-gallon-air-compressor-0587000p.html#.VKpthHsn49Y

Noisy, but dependable. I do switch my hearing-aids to "noisy bar" for noise reduction and it pretty much kills the sound reaching my ears, and damaging what hearing I have left. For everybody else, earplugs!

Of course, if you live in a situation where a noisy compressor isn't an option, do get something like one SchizophrenicMC suggested.

Whatever you do, don't get disposable cans of airbrush propellant. It will eat your wallet alive.

badger and iwata seem to be the badass choices from what I've read review wise, but it's out of my budget honestly.

a good strong compressor would be nice and yeah save time having multiple uses out of it but the noise would be an issue as the garage and living room are very close together and it would annoy family.

I have a paint box in my wish list, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B2TESUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420472457&sr=8-1π=AC_SY200_QL40

think I'll probably go with that since it lights up and there's a lot of poor lighting in this garage this would help a ton.

[VF-19]

You can make a paint booth yourself using some plywood and a range hood. Scope around and see if anybody has a range hood to sell or give away and then design your box around it.

Don't go too cheap on an airbrush. Give this page: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ a read for some info on airbrushes. He reviewed a gamut of airbrushes, from the mega cheap to the higher end.

[SchizophrenicMC]

I made an ineffective paint booth out of a rubbermaid bin, a range hood fan, and a dryer vent tube. Total cost was less than $20, because I got the range fan off the curb.

I intend to make a new one with plexiglass sheet, an automotive airbox, and the same fan. The current one is only ineffective because it creates positive pressure behind the fan, which doesn't move out the tube and instead moves along the sides. I hope to use an airbox to mount an automotive air filter and create a better separation of positive and negative pressures. Also, airboxes have provisions for tubing to direct fumes away. Alternatively, if I find a whole range hood, I'll just use that with some plexi.

Could use plywood, but it'd be heavier and not as fun to look at. Still be cheaper than a hobby-specific booth.

[Hikuro]

....you guys didn't make it any easier to decide lol

[anime52k8]

....you guys didn't make it any easier to decide lol

Just buy an Iwata.

There, that's a super easy decision made for you.

As for a compressor, I've got one just like this:

http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HJMA2GRKFD1W7GGJR8R

IMO a tank, regulator and moisture trap of some kind are mandatory for an airbrush. You don't really need a more powerful compressor than this or a larger tank unless you plan on running multiple brushes off of the same compressor, or you also want to be able to run air tools off of it.

[SchizophrenicMC]

What anime said. Get it piece by piece if you have to, but the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS really is worth every penny. Sure the G23 is only $20, but it really is a $20 brush. And you definitely want a compressor with a moisture trap and regulator, and a tank makes for steadier output pressure and it lets the compressor catch up to you, then turn off and cool down.

I'm in love with my setup which is the two-piston version of the compressor anime linked, and this HP-CS I just got.

[kanedaestes]

Finally finished the beast

[Hikuro]

Finally finished the beast

Yep it certainly is a beast..........................of possibilities. It looks great in any mode. Next weekend I change it back to unicorn.

What anime said. Get it piece by piece if you have to, but the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS really is worth every penny. Sure the G23 is only $20, but it really is a $20 brush. And you definitely want a compressor with a moisture trap and regulator, and a tank makes for steadier output pressure and it lets the compressor catch up to you, then turn off and cool down.

I'm in love with my setup which is the two-piston version of the compressor anime linked, and this HP-CS I just got.

Just buy an Iwata.

There, that's a super easy decision made for you.

As for a compressor, I've got one just like this:

http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HJMA2GRKFD1W7GGJR8R

IMO a tank, regulator and moisture trap of some kind are mandatory for an airbrush. You don't really need a more powerful compressor than this or a larger tank unless you plan on running multiple brushes off of the same compressor, or you also want to be able to run air tools off of it.

You can make a paint booth yourself using some plywood and a range hood. Scope around and see if anybody has a range hood to sell or give away and then design your box around it.

Don't go too cheap on an airbrush. Give this page: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ a read for some info on airbrushes. He reviewed a gamut of airbrushes, from the mega cheap to the higher end.

Alright.....well....I went the hobbytown joint by work, all they had for me to look at was an Aztek, and for 200 dollars I just laughed and said "No". They won't be getting any new stock until 2 weeks from now. Christmas I guess kicked their asses inventory wise, which is true, they got the less appealing Gunpla kits out there.

So my grocery list consisted of the following online:

Iwata HP CS

1/5 HP Master Airbrush Tank Compressor

Zippo Lighter Fluid

XF-63 German Gray (This is for the Tallgeese to get the anime look right)

Tamiya Acrylic Thinner

Tamiya Weathering Sets A-F

So grand total of 310 dollars. Most of this stuff I'm not even gonna see until next week....well except the Weathering set and the Iwata, those come in thursday I think.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Fair enough. I think you'll be happy. I love this airbrush. I really cannot say that enough. It just keeps giving me good results.

On the topic of German Grey, I find that for most gunpla, it's the right color for all the frame work. Or at least it's very close. I usually mix some red and orange into it to make it a bit warmer. I probably use more German Grey than any other color. It's useful for frames, detail painting, and darkening other colors without hurting saturation too much. It's the only color I keep 2 jars of at all times. I think I'm gonna buy another GM Sniper K9 as soon as the local HTUSA has one in stock, and blow some German Grey on it. For Cold District Type reasons.

[David Hingtgen]

I usually use Gunship grey (polycap color, basically) for most things. If I need "darker", then Euro 1 or sometimes Panzer grey. Intermediate blue is the go-to weapon color. (this is what they mean by "medium blue" that you always see mis-re-translated in the instructions).

Intermediate blue is a misnomer, it's this color:

Very common on Star Trek ships, too. (and I think even SW, Y-wing/X-wing canopy framing etc) But of course, it translates from English to Japanese as "medium" blue. And then gets re-translated back.

[close313]

Hey guys, wanna ask what is that sheet thing that they used for the "one point technic" for the EWAC EZ-SR?

(near the bottom of the picture)

http://dalong.net/review/hg/bf21/p/bf21_m0002.JPG

[UN_MARINE]

Apparently, it's a hologram sticker sheet(?) plus marker, for effect. Maybe from a crafts store, or do "professional hobby" versions exist too?

[chyll2]

Apparently, it's a hologram sticker sheet(?) plus marker, for effect. Maybe from a crafts store, or do "professional hobby" versions exist too?

if that what is it, then there are some "hobby" grade metalized sticker I saw before that can be stretched and applied to any model (provided you have the skill for it, that is like working with a tint and a glass)

and if we are both right, then the picture shows using a special hobby item being applied (step1), pushed to the center to fit the shape (step 3) and then using the borders of that shape as a pattern to move your hobby knife to cut it? (step 3)

i do a similar thing when I am doing masking canopy for example, but of course it is not as pretty and usually involve multple layer of tape since it cant be streched

or again, we can be both wrong

i checked One point technic in google and notice that GBF kits has a unique one point technic each that helps with customizing the kit. It would be great if it would be compiled and translated.

Edited January 6, 2015 by chyll2

[mikeszekely]

Hey guys, wanna ask what is that sheet thing that they used for the "one point technic" for the EWAC EZ-SR?

(near the bottom of the picture)

http://dalong.net/review/hg/bf21/p/bf21_m0002.JPG

The instructions just refer to it as a hologram seal. My Japanese isn't good enough to be sure, but the way it's written it's suggesting that you can use a hologram seal and a marker to create a "light" effect for the sensor unit, but I don't think the seal is included with the kit. It's more like, if you have the stuff laying around, you can do that for effect.

[close313]

Thanks guys i guess you're both right about it being a holographic/metallized sticker. Now I have to hunt for one as i'm gonna get that kit tomorrow. Now waiting for RGyaGya and Mega-Shiki to ship and waiting for the release of the Amazing Red Warrior and MG Exia Dark Matter.

BF Try's mobile suits (except for the main casts') are very good looking. Sad that I dont enjoy the show at all. Same goes for AGE. I love the kits from the shows but not a fan of the show themselves.

Edit: Thanks too mike! I just read it after i posted this.

On the topic of another show, MG G-Self will definitely get made, just that I want Bandai to announce it soon.

Edited January 6, 2015 by close313

[SchizophrenicMC]

I usually use Gunship grey (polycap color, basically) for most things. If I need "darker", then Euro 1 or sometimes Panzer grey. Intermediate blue is the go-to weapon color. (this is what they mean by "medium blue" that you always see mis-re-translated in the instructions).

Intermediate blue is a misnomer, it's this color:

Very common on Star Trek ships, too. (and I think even SW, Y-wing/X-wing canopy framing etc) But of course, it translates from English to Japanese as "medium" blue. And then gets re-translated back.

Gunship grey is also a good color, but I guess I just prefer my frames and such to be a bit darker. Not a huge fan of bluish greys though. Not enough to buy any, anyway. If I need a little bit of bluish grey, I'll mix a lighter grey with some blue, then darken as needed with German Grey. I'm pretty good at mixing colors. Had a lot of practice in high school, getting the exact right shade for painting homecoming banners. (Do you know how hard it is to get Carolina Blue acrylic paint locally? Sheesh)

Hey guys, wanna ask what is that sheet thing that they used for the "one point technic" for the EWAC EZ-SR?

(near the bottom of the picture)

http://dalong.net/review/hg/bf21/p/bf21_m0002.JPG

You take a generic foil sticker, apply it in the crevice, run either a transparent yellow paint marker, or a yellow magic marker over it, then use your hobby knife to cut the sticker, using the crevice as a guide. Instant glowy radome effect.

if that what is it, then there are some "hobby" grade metalized sticker I saw before that can be stretched and applied to any model (provided you have the skill for it, that is like working with a tint and a glass)

and if we are both right, then the picture shows using a special hobby item being applied (step1), pushed to the center to fit the shape (step 3) and then using the borders of that shape as a pattern to move your hobby knife to cut it? (step 3)

i do a similar thing when I am doing masking canopy for example, but of course it is not as pretty and usually involve multple layer of tape since it cant be streched

or again, we can be both wrong

i checked One point technic in google and notice that GBF kits has a unique one point technic each that helps with customizing the kit. It would be great if it would be compiled and translated.

I find that the one-point technique sections are pretty straightforward in pictures. The K9, for example, suggests painting silver along edges, then accenting with a metallic brown to imitate rust and wear. I can't read moonspeak, but it's fairly obvious.

[Hikuro]

OKAY! My weather makeup came in, I love it! Everything went better than I had expected.

So here's a sample of what I was doing before application...

Here's what it came to after application....big differences!

I think the head really came out well....

After that I dry brushed the kit which was a nice touch, matte sprayed, then took a rotary tool which sadly was missing a piece and I just went over a couple of areas then with the gundam weathering pen went over the damaged spots. It didn't go as well as I'd of liked, but some areas like on the shield and the head I think looked great.

http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Hikuro/media/Gunpla/image6_zps37d4da5a.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=4

[SchizophrenicMC]

Not bad for your first time out. I think the biggest thing to remember with weathering is, subtlety. At 1/100 scale, everything you do is 100 times bigger in "real life". I think you did pretty good in not going overboard. Keep practicing, refine that skill.

My favorite weathering to do is drybrushing metallic, and my favorite examples are the kind where you have to move around the kit to see the glint off the edges. Of course, I say that, because I suck at everything else

[McFly!!]

Hikuro, "this is no Zaku, boy!!!" XD and please tell us how you like the 1/5hp compressor (noise, power, evenness of spray)!

Edit: forgot to say that i really like that gash on the right side of the gouf custom's forehead!

Edited January 8, 2015 by McFly!!

[Hikuro]

Well the iwata brush got pushed back due to a delay by the delivery truck, this is the 2nd package from UPS this week that's been delayed and the only reason I can think why is because the last 2 days we've had heavy fog with extremely low visibility. The compressor just shipped yesterday so I'm gonna think it won't show up until middle of next week.

[Hikuro]

Not a bad day, found a MG Deathscythe for my Wing collection and the box was damaged so they discounted it 5 bucks, that's not a bad deal.
Also since it was said always carry 2, I managed to find a bottle of the German Gray XF-63, a brush I retooled for dry brushing and a new black Gundam marker.

Then when I got home I get a nice little package waiting at the front step and taaaaddaaa

[SchizophrenicMC]

For a second, I was jealous of your new airbrush. Then I looked to the right a bit and saw mine.

[Hikuro]

My evening so far has been learning how the mix ratio since I'll mostly be working on Tamiya or Mr Color for now on....Course with Tamiya ya either got gloss or you got flat where as Mr Color their items specifically aimed at gunpla are semi gloss. I guess in the end it really doesn't matter what you choose so long as it comes out nice and you matte spray it in the end right?

I did see a rotating paint stand but I didn't want to pay 30 bucks for it so passed that over. Nor did I find anything I could use to safely and effectively use to mix paint and thinner together....I didn't wanna put it in the cup and stir it scratching up the chrome, that'd be a pain in the ass.

I've also been going over my Tallgeese and collecting all the information I need to create a nice TV style appearance....I didn't realize they changed so many things color wise from the designer colors from the anime color pallette that's sorta odd to me.

I don't wanna get to ahead of myself though I still got until next wed. before I can even do anything.

[SchizophrenicMC]

The trick with acrylic is to thin it so it's roughly the consistency of milk. There are ratios tossed around, but you'll get a feel for what works best. I recommend disposable dosage cups for mixing paint. They're cheap, they're graduated, and they're available. I use either a toothpick or an old airbrush needle for stirring paints. I always recommend stirring outside the cup, so you don't get sediment in your cup, or fail to homogenize the paint that will settle around the needle while the thinner floats on top.

Tamiya also has semi-gloss, and if you mix a small amount of flat base into gloss paint, you get semi-gloss. Or if you mix a lot of flat base in, you get matte. I prefer to paint gloss and seal matte.

[electric indigo]

I mostly work with a paint:thinner ratio of 2:1 with Tamiya acrylics.

Fortunately, I collected a lot of those semi-transparent containers for 24mm films when they were still around. They're perfect to store mixed paints.

[anime52k8]

Just asking this for clarification:

What kind of markings does the PG unicorn come with? Stickers, rub-transfer, or water slide? Is it true that the only way to get water slide decals is from buying the web exclusive full armor ad-on?

[Hikuro]

Just asking this for clarification:

What kind of markings does the PG unicorn come with? Stickers, rub-transfer, or water slide? Is it true that the only way to get water slide decals is from buying the web exclusive full armor ad-on?

comes with regular stickers like any other kit. and yeah web exclusive for water slides.

I'm rather surprised that bandai has no offered the water slide optional sets but maybe they will after the 2nd release of the kit.

[SchizophrenicMC]

I mostly work with a paint:thinner ratio of 2:1 with Tamiya acrylics.

Fortunately, I collected a lot of those semi-transparent containers for 24mm films when they were still around. They're perfect to store mixed paints.

I did that for awhile, but some of my older paints had lost some of their thinner with time, so staying strictly 2:1 sometimes left me with paint that was too thick for consistent use. Now I just eyeball it so it runs down the side of the cup about the same as milk. Haven't had a problem yet.

As for storing mixed paints, I've been trying to get my hands on some vials like these. They look to be about the perfect size, and they have sealing caps for bonus storage length. Lab supplies are a good, cheap way to keep your modeling hobby fueled, that's for sure.

[Hikuro]

I got these model master mixing jars and long eye dropper deals today, closest thing I could get in my area, so that'll help.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Yeah, I got those too. They're just too expensive to be sustainable though. I picked up some pipettes from a science supplier on Amazon. Like 50 pipettes for $10.

[mikeszekely]

So, I had some credit at Rakuten, and while there's not a lot of gunpla there, I managed to find this guy...

As far as HGs go, I really liked this one, but I also think it's somewhere in the middle overall. Like, I still had to paint a few spots like the gray knobs on the shield, the red vents on the shoulders, the black vents inside the knee, etc. However, compared to some other HG kits where you'd have large unpainted verniers, you could almost get away without painting the GM Sniper. As far as the build itself goes, it was fairly straightforward. I was able to complete it in probably three hours of actual work time (there was a hockey game on tonight, so I did the torso and legs before and the arms, head, and weapons during intermissions). For an HG, they did a pretty good job molding some small parts like the chest vents and chin vents in red and having you build around them, sort of like an RG kit. I also appreciated that this kit gives you a left and right closed fist/beam saber fist, on open left hand for supporting the rifle, then separate trigger hands for both the rifle and the machine gun. So, if you want to change the weapons, you don't have to pry open a hand to switch the gun.

So why do I like it so much? It could be because it's my first GM in a sea of Gundams (with a small handful of Zeon MS). It could also be, placed as he is in the Detolf with Feddie Gundams (0079-0087), that he's visually distinct. Could be that I liked the way the head is built. Or, it could be that in the PSP Gundam Battle series I found the GM Sniper to be useful early in the 0079 Feddie campaign, so I used it a lot. In any case, the GM Sniper is one of my favorite GMs, and the HGUC kit is a pretty good 1/144 representation of it.