Gundam Plamodel Thread IV

[GU-11]

Just from my own experience, the moisture trap attached directly under my airbrush used to collect loads of water when I was using a compressor without a trap, but once I changed to a different compressor with an attached trap, this practically stopped. While in theory the air cooling as it passes through the hose can precipitate moisture, in practice I haven't seen enough to matter; I still use the secondary trap because I have it, but I never see fluid in it.

This is in New England summertime weather, so reasonably humid. Humid enough that airbrushing with no trap at all turns to spitting and cursing in minutes.

Thanks, Nekko! I guess a second moisture trap isn't necessary, then.

BTW, is it okay if I keep the hose coiled up when airbrushing? I tend to keep it most of it coild and inside a bucket. Can't stand having the hose all over the floor. I'm always worried about my dog tripping over it.

[SchizophrenicMC]

That's some pretty good specs on that compressor. What's "air-on-demand", though?

Speaking of compressors, I'm unsure if I should buy a second moisture trap for the airbrush. While the compressor has its own moisture trap, there's still the hose itself. That said, I always paint with the AC unit on, which lowers the humidity to somewhere between 50-60%.

Yeah, I haven't cleaned my kitchen hood for ages, and (knocks on wood) it still runs. The last time cleaned it, there was so much grease in the that I had to soak the fans overnight in detergent.

Cool idea, using an airbox as a mounting frame.

When we paint a car outdoors, we use 4 moisture traps, plus the tank itself. There's the tank-side trap, a secondary trap on our adapter hose, then we run twin gun-side traps. And then we put a sock over the gun-side traps, because even if we keep the other moisture traps emptied, we'll still build up enough in the twins that the lower will overflow and start dripping.

With that having been said, I only use the tank-side trap when painting models. I live in Texas, so the air conditioning is on all the time, and there's so little moisture in the air that even that doesn't get a lot of condensate. I painted a whole kit once without ever building enough moisture in the trap to justify emptying it. Of course, I've also gotten partway through painting an accent color and had spitting. Your mileage will vary.

"Air on Demand" means it uses pressure sensing. When the tank achieves a pressure of something like 2x regulator pressure (or a set value), the compressor shuts off, and if the pressure falls below something like 1.2x regulator pressure, the compressor switches back on. Painting is pretty CFM-intensive, so even at lower pressures the compressor will generally have to run constantly to try and achieve maximum pressure, but it's generally only a couple seconds behind the brush, and once I cut airflow it catches up and switches off. And then I usually have enough air for about 15 seconds of painting before it kicks back on.

The switch on that compressor is actually a 3-position switch. It can be used in On-Demand mode, where it turns on and off depending on regulator pressure, or it can be switched to Always-On mode. The latter is fairly self-explanatory. (Though it will still shut down to prevent overpressure)

[GU-11]

When we paint a car outdoors, we use 4 moisture traps, plus the tank itself. There's the tank-side trap, a secondary trap on our adapter hose, then we run twin gun-side traps. And then we put a sock over the gun-side traps, because even if we keep the other moisture traps emptied, we'll still build up enough in the twins that the lower will overflow and start dripping.

With that having been said, I only use the tank-side trap when painting models. I live in Texas, so the air conditioning is on all the time, and there's so little moisture in the air that even that doesn't get a lot of condensate. I painted a whole kit once without ever building enough moisture in the trap to justify emptying it. Of course, I've also gotten partway through painting an accent color and had spitting. Your mileage will vary.

"Air on Demand" means it uses pressure sensing. When the tank achieves a pressure of something like 2x regulator pressure (or a set value), the compressor shuts off, and if the pressure falls below something like 1.2x regulator pressure, the compressor switches back on. Painting is pretty CFM-intensive, so even at lower pressures the compressor will generally have to run constantly to try and achieve maximum pressure, but it's generally only a couple seconds behind the brush, and once I cut airflow it catches up and switches off. And then I usually have enough air for about 15 seconds of painting before it kicks back on.

The switch on that compressor is actually a 3-position switch. It can be used in On-Demand mode, where it turns on and off depending on regulator pressure, or it can be switched to Always-On mode. The latter is fairly self-explanatory. (Though it will still shut down to prevent overpressure)

Thanks for the heads-up! There's a hand grip filter for sale at HLJ--not exactly bank-breaking, but it's not cheap either. Might get one later, although honestly, I haven't had any problems with moisture so far (knocks on wood). If it were cheaper, I'd get one just to be safe.

From you description, I think my compressor also has something similar to Air on Demand, although it's not specifically given a name. According to the brochure, "when the air tank pressure falls below 40psi, the compressor runs to recharge the tank back to 60psi & then switches off - the compressor running to the demand of the air tank, rather than switching on/off every time the airbrush trigger is pressed."

[joppewo]

Part 3!

Edited November 27, 2014 by joppewo

[SchizophrenicMC]

Part 4, in which Syd finishes building the legs and the skirt

[Hikuro]

So when do we start the count down until our wallets go "......aw F&ck.....my opening hurts."? I'm still on the fence, I like the design, but the LED wiring still irks me off.

I'm almost done with my MG Star Build Strike. I like how solid the mobile suit is by itself, I mean just solid. I don't feel like I'm gonna have parts popping off or joints being way to tight, it's just a good solid looking kit. I'm building the Universe Booster and THAT doesn't feel the same way. I had to do additional Paint to the canopy to get the frame the right color, and there's a lot of awkward looking panel line detail to do.

I think what's going to scare me the most is the weapons...it's just a lot of the going back and forth between two instruction sheets.

[Scyla]

So I finished the RG Strike Freedom (sans clear coat) and the stickers suck.

Need RG with waterslide decals.

Edited November 28, 2014 by Scyla

[kanedaestes]

Part 5: Arms and Shoulders

http://youtu.be/d-wnqyCY_mk

I can't seem to figure as it has been so long how to embed the video and not just show the link

Edited November 29, 2014 by kanedaestes

[Scyla]

Here is a picture of the finished RG Strike freedom:

I spray painted the frame parts while they where still on the runners. The only place where you can see the underlying plastic is on the lower end of the elbow right below the golden sticker. It is kinda sad that you don't see that much of the frame with all the armor parts on.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Part 6: Head, Backpack, and Final Assembly

Yeah, I dig it.

[chyll2]

it looks really solid when Syd is handling it. The only thing I hate is the horn/antennae in unicorn mode. I still think they should provided one dedicated for Unicorn mode since the gap is annoying.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Yeah I'm still not sure they've really pulled it off with the horn as it is in this one. Of course it'd be a big blow to Bandai's professional pride if they put separate horn/v-fin parts in their so-called Perfect Grade no-parts-swapping kit. I think it's probably better this way. The magnet does look to hold it together better than the MG's, and as long as you make sure it's together, you probably won't be able to tell easily without close inspection.

[Hikuro]

can't wait to watch this tonight to see how the mechanics work on that head sculpt.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Spoiler alert:

DOUBLE BALL JOINT

[Nekko Basara]

Yeah I'm still not sure they've really pulled it off with the horn as it is in this one. Of course it'd be a big blow to Bandai's professional pride if they put separate horn/v-fin parts in their so-called Perfect Grade no-parts-swapping kit. I think it's probably better this way. The magnet does look to hold it together better than the MG's, and as long as you make sure it's together, you probably won't be able to tell easily without close inspection.

The parts-swapping on the MG is entirely optional, so I don't see why the PG couldn't do the same and maintain its "perfect transformation" cred. Although the SD Unicorn pulls off a very good splitable horn without magnets, just by having the joints angled in such a way that the two halves press closed.

I dunno - I seem to be in a small minority that isn't bothered by a little separation on the horn, even in my MG. Maybe I've spent so long with Transformers that I just don't notice egregious panel gaps anymore.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Similarly, I've spent enough time around Fords and Chevrolets that you'd think I wouldn't notice panel gap anymore, but oh no,

I think the PG's horn will be sufficient. Maybe not perfect, but it's an improvement over the MG and it comes in color, so I'll take it.

[Hikuro]

hmmmm yeah noticeable gap on the horn. kind of a let down there, there's just no way to make that perfect seal. guess I'll find out Friday if I can afford this kit or not in the end.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Part 7, in which Syd builds guns

Dat Beam Magnum, doe

[Hikuro]

Last weekend I picked up the Delta Kai Gundam kit cause I was facinated with it.

Opened it up today and I was looking it over and WTF? almost 50 stickers! They don't even look like they would completely cover the applied area needed without later starting to wear and peel. Some of these are just so stupid of an area too where it could of been a part instead or just designed a little differently to make it work.

I guess this gives me an excuse to do a new custom Gunpla Battle kit!

[David Hingtgen]

Did I somehow miss a new Build Fighters WING ZERO?!?!

1/144 HGBF "Wing Zero Honoo":

[chyll2]

Did I somehow miss a new Build Fighters WING ZERO?!?!

1/144 HGBF "Wing Zero Honoo":

you never missed anything. These design came from the Manga where Yuuki is the MC and is set years before the first series. His Nu kit will be released as well.

[Hikuro]

I just finished the Gundam Delta Kai and it's not without issues. I can't slot tab the knees in waverider mode they won't go in and you almost have to get the right angle to do it in mobile suit mode.

There are to many stickers, some of which I replaced with paint others I had to use the stickers. But here's a shot in waverider mode in comparison size to the Zeta Plus.

[electric indigo]

I think Katoki really got the feet wrong on the Deltas. They would look much better with the Zetaplus or S-Gundam's feet.

[areaseven]

Just got this from my brother in Japan. It's essentially the HG Gundam Ver. G30th molded in gray and different shades of gold. Also included are the Ver. GFT's exclusive Magnet Coating limbs and a 7-Eleven Javelin.

Not sure if I should assemble this or keep it in storage, as it's a limited edition kit.

[Hikuro]

I dunno....personally don't see much in terms of value with it being 7/11 logo on it.

[chyll2]

I dunno....personally don't see much in terms of value with it being 7/11 logo on it.

personal preference. I wont mind doing one as long as I get it at SRP but since I am not living in Japan, I wont

[mikeszekely]

I dunno....personally don't see much in terms of value with it being 7/11 logo on it.

You say to the man with a Pepsi Optimus Prime...

personal preference. I wont mind doing one as long as I get it at SRP but since I am not living in Japan, I wont

That's pretty much how I feel. I mean, if I walked into a 7/11 in the States and they had a stack of these for $20 or so, I'd happily grab one. Heck, if I heard US 7/11s were selling them I'd go so far as to make a special trip to a few in my area to look for them. But I'm not going to go out of my way to import one from Japan.

[Nekko Basara]

My feeling is that gold plastic nearly always looks terrible. You can paint it, but then it may as well be the standard version.

I'm not saying I understand the appeal of these store-branded kits, but limited run items often increase in value. I'd keep it on the box; most of the fun in a kit like that is simply having it.

[Vifam7]

The 7-11 Gunperry was pretty cool IMPO.

I think store brand liveries tend to work better with trucks, trains, and cargo aircraft.

[Hikuro]

if they have slurpy dispensers sure.

[Hikuro]

sooooooo guess the PG Unicorn is out. But I haven't heard a peep from HLJ yet except showing that the kit and led's are on backorder now. gonna be pretty bummed if I'm slapped onto that list.

[joppewo]

HLJ tends to send out payment requests about a day after the stock arrives at their warehouse.

If I'm not wrong, the first wave of requests should be coming in a few hours (usually around 3-4am JST)

[Hikuro]

HLJ tends to send out payment requests about a day after the stock arrives at their warehouse.

If I'm not wrong, the first wave of requests should be coming in a few hours (usually around 3-4am JST)

wait and see yeah, I wasn't expecting this thing to actually be paid for until Saturday but then I heard that it was actually being released 3 days in advanced, then the blog site I frequent to see what's up in the world of Gunpla said it was released. Now HLJ just shows backorder. Gonna just twiddle my thumbs, work on my Crossbone MG and wait.

[mikeszekely]

Well, I bought a book on Amazon, and I needed something to hit the "Super Saver" mark for the shipping. Since (then) the HGUC Crossbone wasn't available directly from Amazon, I decided to look for a different HG I might like. I settled on Shin Matsunaga's Zaku II R-1A, because I love Zaku's, I like the beefier look of the R-1A and R-2, and I love Shin Matsunaga's white and gray color scheme.

In the spectrum of HG's I've built, it's hard to pin down where exactly it fits. I mean, you could get away without painting it at all... but I wound up painting the insides of all the thrusters on the backpack and legs, and all the verniers on the legs, plus the inside of its snout. The kit includes tons of stickers for detail, though. Not as many as an RG, obviously, but more than any other HG I've worked on. The details help break up all the white, and the results don't look out of place next to the RG Zakus. I also really di the weapon rack that mounts on its shield.

There's some odd stuff going on, though. For one, the angle of the back of the Zaku machine gun seems different than the RGs. On an RG, you can put the gun in the Zaku's hand and the back of the rifle can rest on top of the inside of the elbow joint. There's no way to do that on the R-1A, though. Trying to put the gun there will cause the hand to pop out of the joint, so the gun has to be angled so the back is between the Zaku's arm and body, limiting its poses. Another oddity is that the hand parts come on two different runners. Three hands (the right trigger finger, the left clenched fist, and the left open fist) are on the gray that's used for most of the inner joint parts, similar in color to the polycaps. Two of them, though (right open fist and left trigger finger) are the darker gray that the weapons are made from. If you're like me and try to paint as little as possible you'll want to select two hands that match in color for posing.

Subjectively, it's the best HG (until I get Crossbone, maybe?) because white Zakus are awesome. Objectively, its still a good HG kit that, like Victory, you can get away without painting but you'll probably want to paint a little, with a few quirks that let Victory (and the Gouf Custom) stay above it.

[SchizophrenicMC]

I liked the S. Matsunaga Zaku R1A enough to get the MG. It was my first bad-guy suit (because I decaled up my MkII Titans as Unit 03) and it's just a really imposing display piece. The R1A is definitely cooler than the basic Zaku II, and I think it looks better than the more streamlined R2. And the grey-on-white color scheme really gets me going.

Hikuro, Bandai delivers to HLJ on Thursday, they usually send the payment request on Friday, and ship Saturday or Monday, in my experience. If you preordered, you should be guaranteed a kit. HLJ is usually pretty careful not to overextend their preordering ability. (Which is why the LED set went on order stop so long ago)