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Posted

Do PG straight builds with some stickers look decent? Cuz I SUCK at painting, nor do I have the facilities (in a college dorm) to make such work feasible.

I have the artistic tendencies of an agitated squirrel, if not worse, for reference

Posted

I built the Char Z'Gok already, and I posted my thoughts (probably) a few pages back.

To summarize, if you're a fan of the RG line, go for it because the experience is much different than building the various Gundams in the line. Compared to most of the other RG's, though, I found it to be a little simple for most of the parts, and a little tedious building the upper arm and thigh segments.

I didn't post my impressions of the Z'Gok because, frankly, I would have just been repeating what you said!

I will add, though, that I was disappointed upon opening the box and seeing how few sprues and stickers it contained; "Why even make this design as an RG?" I thought. But throughout the build process, my opinion steadily improved. Not only is it a very unique build, but it has a solidity and playability that is really unusual for the line. Only the Mk. II compares to the Z'Gok in how you can just pick it up and mess with it; all of the joints feel great, and hardly any parts want to fall off. The design may look out of place with my RGs, but it is definitely not a trumped-up HG in engineering.

Bottom line - anybody who is waiting for a blue one should grab the Char version. The kit is so good and so inexpensive that you won't mind getting a second one if the grunt version ever comes out.

Posted

Do PG straight builds with some stickers look decent? Cuz I SUCK at painting, nor do I have the facilities (in a college dorm) to make such work feasible.

I have the artistic tendencies of an agitated squirrel, if not worse, for reference

Unless you REALLY wanna bang it up a notch you don't need to paint. But lately Bandai has been doing water slide decals on certain kits, mainly Ver Ka's to give it a more realistic look. But their water slide decal material is bunk as far as I'm concerned and require Matte Spray after you apply a section. And when I say section I mean like left arm, right arm, left leg, right leg, waist, torso, pack, accessories. If you wait, they have the chance of falling literally off the plastic.

You CAN paint the kit though if you really wanted too. Though PG's generally don't need it. Unless you wanna enhance the look of the inner frame or something then shoot that's probably a lot of painting.

Posted

Do PG straight builds with some stickers look decent? Cuz I SUCK at painting, nor do I have the facilities (in a college dorm) to make such work feasible.

I have the artistic tendencies of an agitated squirrel, if not worse, for reference

I think Hikuro answered better, as he's had experience with PGs and I haven't.

What I can say is that I'm in the exact same boat... I'm so bad I couldn't paint a fence, let alone a model. That's one of the reasons I like the RG kits so much... You don't need any paint. With everything in the colors it was molded in, with the included stickers, the RG kits are excellently detailed and absolutely display worthy. If Bandai can pull that off that well on $25-$35 1/144 kits, I see no reason why they can't do it on 1/60 kits with 10x the price tag.

Posted

Unless you REALLY wanna bang it up a notch you don't need to paint. But lately Bandai has been doing water slide decals on certain kits, mainly Ver Ka's to give it a more realistic look. But their water slide decal material is bunk as far as I'm concerned and require Matte Spray after you apply a section. And when I say section I mean like left arm, right arm, left leg, right leg, waist, torso, pack, accessories. If you wait, they have the chance of falling literally off the plastic.

I have never seen that happen on a gundam kit with water-slide decals. Ever.

Posted (edited)

if you applied the water slide decal properly, it wont fall off but handling the kit, there is a possibility that you can remove/destroy the decal so sealing is really required before playing/posing it around.

I saw from Syd from Hobbylink that the reason the led kit is expensive is because you can get all the psychoframe parts. So if you really liked the LED route, you need to get them both at start.

edit:

it seems like waterslide decals are available in the p-bandai FA add on part.

Edited by chyll2
Posted

if you applied the water slide decal properly, it wont fall off but handling the kit, there is a possibility that you can remove/destroy the decal so sealing is really required before playing/posing it around.

I saw from Syd from Hobbylink that the reason the led kit is expensive is because you can get all the psychoframe parts. So if you really liked the LED route, you need to get them both at start.

edit:

it seems like waterslide decals are available in the p-bandai FA add on part.

so my initial theory was correct that you get all new frame parts from the LED kit.

as for the FA, if you really wanna call it that.....I'll pass on that due to lack of imagination on the design AND size restriction.

I didn't even have room to put the FA version in 1/144 on my cabinet lol don't think a PG will do any better!!

I also just built Build Burning gundam. shoulders pop out super easy, but the action posing is pretty well balanced overall.

it just seriously lacks anything fun, it's so simple and stream lined that even doing additional work on it took me 2 hours to build.

Posted

I would only get the FA just to have the 3 shields, and probably not bother with the other parts and boosters.

Anyway, NY has the FA parts and MG Orange Zeta up for pre-orders now.

Sitting on the fence if I should grab all the exclusive Zetas

Posted

Do PG straight builds with some stickers look decent? Cuz I SUCK at painting, nor do I have the facilities (in a college dorm) to make such work feasible.

I have the artistic tendencies of an agitated squirrel, if not worse, for reference

PG straight builds without stickers look great. Adding some paint for panel lines or frame detail, or applying some stickers or decals only amplifies the effect of just how good a PG usually looks. Even after my cat half-destroyed my PG Strike, I've kept it on display because it still looks awesome.

Recently, Bandai have been releasing decals with the higher-end kits, so I'm really hoping we get waterslides with the PG Unicorn. As far as what Hikuro's saying about decals, I have never seen that happen, nor have I had any problems with Bandai waterslides. If I had to guess, I'd say his surface prep or handling are no good, and that's causing the decals to not set properly.

As far as the LED kit, that news makes the price more palatable, but it probably means you won't be able to add LEDs down the line. Either way I'm sold on both. As soon as I have some money and orders open back up again, I'm picking up both.

Posted

I built the Char Z'Gok already, and I posted my thoughts (probably) a few pages back.

To summarize, if you're a fan of the RG line, go for it because the experience is much different than building the various Gundams in the line. Compared to most of the other RG's, though, I found it to be a little simple for most of the parts, and a little tedious building the upper arm and thigh segments.

I didn't post my impressions of the Z'Gok because, frankly, I would have just been repeating what you said!

I will add, though, that I was disappointed upon opening the box and seeing how few sprues and stickers it contained; "Why even make this design as an RG?" I thought. But throughout the build process, my opinion steadily improved. Not only is it a very unique build, but it has a solidity and playability that is really unusual for the line. Only the Mk. II compares to the Z'Gok in how you can just pick it up and mess with it; all of the joints feel great, and hardly any parts want to fall off. The design may look out of place with my RGs, but it is definitely not a trumped-up HG in engineering.

Bottom line - anybody who is waiting for a blue one should grab the Char version. The kit is so good and so inexpensive that you won't mind getting a second one if the grunt version ever comes out.

Haha you guys twisted my arm, guess I'll buy the Char Z'Gok :lol: .

Posted

Talk about dropping the ball.

Yes, I was expecting this PG to have waterslide decals for all the markings. I'm finishing MG Sazabi ver ka and it has almost 150 water slide decals which blend really well after a flat coat.

Posted

At PG pricing and detail, you'd expect they'd throw waterslides in, especially since it's become so common on recent MGs.

It's not like waterslide decals are expensive either. The waterslide version of the RG RX-78-2's sticker sheet is like $5 retail.

Posted

Do PG straight builds with some stickers look decent? Cuz I SUCK at painting, nor do I have the facilities (in a college dorm) to make such work feasible.

I have the artistic tendencies of an agitated squirrel, if not worse, for reference

A Straight build PG will still look awesome. Also since the Unicorn is WHITE, it's not like you really need much painting in the first place.

Below is a website that have pretty much straight builds everything, and then panel line with gundam marker and stickers. You will probably see the PG unicorn on this website before you get yours.

I use this website for reference on upcoming kits, or kits I plan to buy, but black panel lining is still way too much for my liking.

http://www.dalong.net/review/pg.htm

Posted

It's been interesting reading folks' different experiences with the waterslides, because I have never tried using them on bare plastic. My experience with them is in military models, applying them on a layer of Future or gloss paint and then covering them with more Future or a similar topcoat. I wasn't sure they'd settle or stick properly on plastic, but it sounds like some folks have had good luck with that. And others, not so much.

My guess for anyone who finds that they just fall off is that maybe you are soaking them too long or too vigorously, and the adhesive is dissipating in the water?

But for the folks who aren't having that issue, do you find you can actually handle the model with uncoated decals normally? Or do they basically just stick well enough to survive until you can topcoat it?

Posted

I've had good luck with decals on bare plastic, but the trick is surface prep. If there's anything keeping the decal from bonding to the plastic, you're boned.

I definitely always recommend clear coat, but I haven't had any handling issues myself.

Actually, the question I'm asking myself now is, am I going to paint my PG Unicorn? Regardless, I'm going to decal and clear coat it. But I don't know if I want to go for matte, satin, or mirror gloss for the finish.

Posted

With my MG Sazabi ver ka I washed all the parts with mild detergent and warm water to get rid of the mold release agent before assembly and applying the decals. After that a flat clear coat!

Posted

It's been interesting reading folks' different experiences with the waterslides, because I have never tried using them on bare plastic. My experience with them is in military models, applying them on a layer of Future or gloss paint and then covering them with more Future or a similar topcoat. I wasn't sure they'd settle or stick properly on plastic, but it sounds like some folks have had good luck with that. And others, not so much.

My guess for anyone who finds that they just fall off is that maybe you are soaking them too long or too vigorously, and the adhesive is dissipating in the water?

But for the folks who aren't having that issue, do you find you can actually handle the model with uncoated decals normally? Or do they basically just stick well enough to survive until you can topcoat it?

From my experience, Bandai decals in general don't have very good adhesive properies. So yes, they can fall off or crumble off especially if one does not clear coat it. And certain clear coats, like Gunze's Top Coat, don't do much to help it stick.

The best way to deal with Bandai decals is to apply decal softening solution (like Microsol or Mark Setter) on the decal. The softener will melt the decal onto the surface. Then when the decal is dry, spray a clear coat.

Posted

I disagree that Bandia waterslides are bad.
Have I had them come off after applying? Sure, but only when I accidentally placed my thumb or finger on one without having top coated it yet.

Anyway, from the new images the PG Unicorn arm/leg proportions look good to me now, not sure how they got that down.
The Unleash mode is not canon? Can't remember seening that in the OVA.

And some pics of upcomging stuff in case they were missed:

MG Gundam Double X
B23x5uMCYAAKYBt.jpg

ge27.jpg

MG Exia Dark Matter
a6a9ad9c-s.jpg

MG Z Gundam III B Type and P2 Type - web exclusive
Untitled-75.jpg

Untitled-78.jpg

MG 1/100 RX-0[N] Unicorn Gundam Banshee Norn (awakening) - web exclusive
This sucks, I passed on the yellow psyco frame one, because I was hoping to settle for a cheaper green mass release one, and then they pull this off... grrrrr!!!
15841115301_22d38ea10d_o.jpg

MG Rick Dom (Dozel Zabi) - web exclusive
DSC_06161.jpg

RE/100 Gundam Mk III
fb672627-s.jpg

5d7946e1-s.jpg

RE/100 Gundam GP04G
4baf70e9-s.jpg

538dcdbf-s.jpg

RE/100 Dijeh

!!!!
ge01.jpg

DSC_06031.jpg

Posted

The only time I used waterslide decals, on the MG Nu Gundam Ver. Ka, I had no problems with them. After I applied all the decals according to the manual I had only one that didn't stayed in place but a flat coat fixed that.

Posted

I maintain the problem is with your technique and not Bandai's materials.

I do everything I can before applying just like others. I've had no issues with other waterslides from different model kit makers. Bandai ones I've experienced crumbling, tearing, or just over next 15 minutes fall right off cause they didn't want to adhere. I'm usually VERY careful when it comes to the water slides cause I like to make sure I place them exactly where I want before I seal them.

I still gotta do Sazabi Ka which has been sitting around for nearly a year now only half decaled cause it was so time consuming and tedious for me.

Posted (edited)

Hey, apologies if this was obvious to everyone else, buy I just realized that the PG Unicorn's LED system will only work on its stand.

Comparing the hobby show pics with the blog posts of the LED set, it looks like the box for the batteries goes into the center of the base, and you can see the controls on the front. It must run wires up the stand arm and have some kind of connector in the backpack. So, no stand = no batteries = no light. Now I'm curious how dynamic a pose it can manage on that stand without messing up the connection.

Edited by Nekko Basara
Posted

Hey, apologies if this was obvious to everyone else, buy I just realized that the PG Unicorn's LED system will only work on its stand.

Comparing the hobby show pics with the blog posts of the LED set, it looks like the box for the batteries goes into the center of the base, and you can see the controls on the front. It must run wires up the stand arm and have some kind of connector in the backpack. So, no stand = no batteries = no light. Now I'm curious how dynamic a pose it can manage on that stand without messing up the connection.

Yeah.....I noticed this too. I'm now kind of contemplating if I want to cancel my order. I understand the trickiness of having something like the Unicorn light up it's clear parts...but this is a rather large expensive turn off for me now.

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