Gundam Plamodel Thread IV

[Nekko Basara]

Sorry to post so much, but the Mk. II is done.

Maybe I'll take some better shots and update its album over the weekend.

[GU-11]

That I have not tried. It might work!

By all means, even regarding the FFP, don't take my word for it - experiment and let me know if you find anything that works well. I was so excited (and surprised) when I discovered the Sharpies and what a believable metal finish they produced, but it broke my heart when I began to see them come off of areas I handled (like the backpack verniers, which you touch prettymuch anytime you pick up a gundam - and those are sometimes ABS, too, so they take paint especially badly). I still use them, but I just have to think carefully about whether the part will be handled or not.

I'll definitely let you know the results once I try it on something. Theoretically, the added adhesion from the flat coat, coupled by FFP sealing the Sharpie's metallic ink, should make for a reasonably durable finish.

One thing I know for sure that would never work are silver or gold "gel-type" ballpoint pens. Those things never dry on anything but paper. I was stupid enough to use those when I started out building Gunpla, and ended up with a huge mess I had to clean off before starting again.

BTW, would you know of any good alternatives to Alclad and kosutte ginsa for realistic metal finishes? It's next to impossible to import Alclad (haven't tried to do so, but it seems most online shops don't ship volatile liquids by air), and HLJ doesn't sell kosutte ginsa.

Sorry to post so much, but the Mk. II is done.

RX-178 01.jpg

Maybe I'll take some better shots and update its album over the weekend.

Nice! I'm actually tempted to start on my MG Aile Strike right now. The only thing keeping me from doing so is that I've already got two other builds going on, and probably shouldn't start a third one.

[CrazyDude]

HLJ still sells kosutte but can't ship it overseas and thus been removed from the English site with some other stuff.

SnJ Powder, etc work well and are made overseas.

[GU-11]

HLJ still sells kosutte but can't ship it overseas and thus been removed from the English site with some other stuff.

SnJ Powder, etc work well and are made overseas.

SnJ Powder? Where can I buy those? I did search for it at HLJ and Hobby Search, but neither seem to carry it. Hopefully I won't have to import from the US; shipping to Malaysia will probably be more expensive than the item itself.

I've also heard something about rubbing graphite powder from pencil shavings on a gloss black surface can give a dark chrome effect. Does that actually work?

[CrazyDude]

The graphite pencil trick works and has been used for nearly 50 decades.

Google for SnJ Japanese shops don't stock it, iirc.

[GU-11]

Well, the pencil trick sounds like a much better alternative. Just any old 2B pencil or does it have to be a certain grade?

Is it possible to seal it with a clear coat or hand-painted FFP?

[CrazyDude]

The hardness best use what you are comfortable with.

You can seal it with the same stuff used for powder pastels(future, etc).

[GU-11]

The hardness best use what you are comfortable with.

You can seal it with the same stuff used for powder pastels(future, etc).

Many thanks! This has certainly solved a lot of my problems.

[CrazyDude]

Powder Pastels like the tamiya weathering sets are often referred as "The poor man's Airbrush".

You can get pretty much the same effects.

[Nekko Basara]

BTW, would you know of any good alternatives to Alclad and kosutte for realistic metal finishes? It's next to impossible to import Alclad (haven't tried to do so, but it seems most online shops don't ship volatile liquids by air), and HLJ doesn't sell kosutte ginsa.

Sounds like you have some great ideas now (thanks, CrazyDude). Personally, I've never had the guts to mess with Alclad and the like, so I have avoided doing large areas of metal like a bare aluminum aircraft. I've seen demos, but can't work up the nerve, haha!

I limit my metal to small areas like chipping, where I feel I can get away with the combo of metallic paints and graphite pencil. Regarding the latter, you can also just mark directly on the subject, and they make "silver" pencils in addition to the normal dark color.

Just as examples of my approach, here are a P-47 (around the gun bays and cockpit) and an unfinished N1K1 (supposed to look like heavy sun weathering):

[mikeszekely]

Sorry to post so much, but the Mk. II is done.

Well? Did you like is as much as I thought you would?

[GU-11]

Powder Pastels like the tamiya weathering sets are often referred as "The poor man's Airbrush".

You can get pretty much the same effects.

Also known as the "lazy man's airbrush." Definitely beats having to clean up after a paint session.

I just bought a couple of those weathering sets, and plan to use them to create a sort of pre-shaded effect on my MG Aile Strike.

Sounds like you have some great ideas now (thanks, CrazyDude). Personally, I've never had the guts to mess with Alclad and the like, so I have avoided doing large areas of metal like a bare aluminum aircraft. I've seen demos, but can't work up the nerve, haha!

I limit my metal to small areas like chipping, where I feel I can get away with the combo of metallic paints and graphite pencil. Regarding the latter, you can also just mark directly on the subject, and they make "silver" pencils in addition to the normal dark color.

Just as examples of my approach, here are a P-47 (around the gun bays and cockpit) and an unfinished N1K1 (supposed to look like heavy sun weathering):

That's very true. I've heard that Alclad metallizers can be a bit of a chore to AB, and the learning curve's a little steep. The stuff's pretty toxic, too. LOL, I can barely handle basecoating, so Alclad might be a little out of my league as well!

Fortunately, there aren't a lot of model kits in my stash that need chrome parts.

That's some pretty impressive paint chipping effects on those planes. I initially wanted to try out that elaborate "hairspray" method just for bragging rights, but if I can get results like that with just silver pencils, that's definitely a better, less labor-intensive way to go about it.

[anime52k8]

That's very true. I've heard that Alclad metallizers can be a bit of a chore to AB, and the learning curve's a little steep. The stuff's pretty toxic, too. LOL, I can barely handle basecoating, so Alclad might be a little out of my league as well!

all true... but it looks so frakking good if you do it well:

GN-X by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr

GN-X by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr

Edited August 9, 2014 by anime52k8

[anime52k8]

BTW, anyone have any thoughts on a mobile suit that exists in MG form that would look good in head toe Alclad metal finish?

[mikeszekely]

all true... but it looks so frakking good if you do it well

Ah, but therein lies the rub. I've gone "out of the lines", so to speak, adding a few details to some of my Transformers with a silver Sharpie. I'm pretty sure if I tried to do anything serious on a nice Gundam model I'd just muck it up.

BTW, anyone have any thoughts on a mobile suit that exists in MG form that would look good in head toe Alclad metal finish?

You mean besides the obvious Hyaku Shinki or Akatsuki? Maybe Delta Plus. You could go for either a gray metal look, or you could repaint it in gold as the original Delta Gundam. Edited August 9, 2014 by mikeszekely

[anime52k8]

what about turn X or Nu Ver. Ka?

[GU-11]

BTW, anyone have any thoughts on a mobile suit that exists in MG form that would look good in head toe Alclad metal finish?

The whole kit in general is gorgeously done up. But as nice as the metallic finish looks, it's not the mirror-reflection effect I expected from Alclad.

BTW, what's the name of that kit? I know I really shouldn't, but I'm tempted to buy that someday.

Ah, but therein lies the rub. I've gone "out of the lines", so to speak, adding a few details to some of my Transformers with a silver Sharpie. I'm pretty sure if I tried to do anything serious on a nice Gundam model I'd just muck it up.

Sometimes I wonder if Hasbro knows we're all doing touch ups on our TF's, and since the kids don't care, they simply give the toys the bare minimum amount of paint apps.

[mikeszekely]

what about turn X or Nu Ver. Ka?

I'd think that, as someone who's worked with alclad, you'd have a better idea than someone like me who makes a colossal mess with a tiny paint brush. But personally, I'd think that the Nu would have too many colors for a real head-to-toe job, though it'd probably look good on the inner frame and the black parts of the torso, legs, and arms.

And yeah, I'd think Turn X would work.

BTW, what's the name of that kit? I know I really shouldn't, but I'm tempted to buy that someday.

Looks like a MG GN-X, from Gundam 00. Edited August 9, 2014 by mikeszekely

[David Hingtgen]

Wing Zero Custom, if the feathers would take the paint well.

[Nekko Basara]

Well? Did you like is as much as I thought you would?

Hang on - I need to restart my brain. It was shorted out by how gorgeous Mike's GN-X is.

Ok, so, the Mk. II. Yeah.

I have to say that in terms of the overall look, it's the nicest of the four RGs that I have built. The silhouette, the proportions - it's just perfect. It's like a robotic linebacker. And when loaded up it looks like a credible war machine to me, which is surprising for something in traditional Gundam clown colors.

Things I liked:

- Nothing falls off or flops around while posing.

- Has lots of gear and places for all of it (well, only 3 of the 4 rifle magazines, but still plenty).

- The tubing looks so nice.

- Armor moves very well

- Pure badass.

Things I didn't like:

- Simpler construction than other RGs, particularly less use of color separation.

- Relatively few gimmicks. Aside from what I already mentioned, there's the openable cockpit, but that's about it.

- Head movement is pretty limited (it can barely look up), especially with the vulcan unit attached.

Basically, the kit's greatest weakness is also its greatest strength. It doesn't have an over-complex construction that falls apart, and it has no over-heavy backpack or complex transformation gimmicks to mess with posing. I wouldn't want all my RGs to be like this, but I am so happy that this one is.

Oh, and the album is updated here (thanks for looking!)

[mikeszekely]

Basically, the kit's greatest weakness is also its greatest strength. It doesn't have an over-complex construction that falls apart, and it has no over-heavy backpack or complex transformation gimmicks to mess with posing.

I guess that's where I have to agree to disagree... I don't think it's a weakness at all. Granted, better color separation and better range of motion in the head and waist would have definitely improved the kit, but more complex construction just means more tiny pieces to lose or break, and gimmicks like Core Fighters, crazy backpacks, and transformations have brought a lot of the other RG kits down in my eyes. Zeta is the best example... if they'd have skipped the transformation gimmick instead of trying to recreate the MS Master File's design in a 1/144 scale, it could have been fantastic. Instead, I'm afraid to touch the thing because if I look at it the wrong way the chest will unpeg, the head will retract like a scared turtle, and a leg will fall off.

[anime52k8]

The whole kit in general is gorgeously done up. But as nice as the metallic finish looks, it's not the mirror-reflection effect I expected from Alclad.

They make High-shine paints that practically look like vac chrome if done right, but their regular finish products tend to either have a soft, medium luster or even come out slightly flat for some of the colors.

anyways, i think I've got a pretty cool idea for how to paint up Nu gundam if I pick one up and get time to do it.

[GU-11]

Looks like a MG GN-X, from Gundam 00.

Thanks! If I do find a kit at TRU during a Christmas sale, it's bought.

They make High-shine paints that practically look like vac chrome if done right, but their regular finish products tend to either have a soft, medium luster or even come out slightly flat for some of the colors.

That's good to know; if and when I do stumble onto a local store that sells Alclad, I won't end up buying the wrong ones. For non chrome finishes, the usual Tamiya acrylics and Krylon Fusion silver sprays will do the trick.

[electric indigo]

FYI, Tamiya acrylic aluminium is better (= smaller metal flakes) than Tamiya acrylic silver.

what about turn X or Nu Ver. Ka?

Turn X! Mead's designs are made for metallic surfaces, with a hint of orange or blue pinstripes on top, please.

[Nekko Basara]

I guess that's where I have to agree to disagree... I don't think it's a weakness at all. Granted, better color separation and better range of motion in the head and waist would have definitely improved the kit, but more complex construction just means more tiny pieces to lose or break, and gimmicks like Core Fighters, crazy backpacks, and transformations have brought a lot of the other RG kits down in my eyes. Zeta is the best example... if they'd have skipped the transformation gimmick instead of trying to recreate the MS Master File's design in a 1/144 scale, it could have been fantastic. Instead, I'm afraid to touch the thing because if I look at it the wrong way the chest will unpeg, the head will retract like a scared turtle, and a leg will fall off.

I think calling the (relative) simplicity of the Mk.II a weakness was overstating things on my part. In terms of the finished product, the Mk.II is perfect for what it is, and I wouldn't want it to have more gimmicks to potentially make it more fragile and less handle-able. It's only in terms of the build experience that I though the kit was a bit weaker than the others I have done. There was less clever engineering to enjoy (but still plenty). So, not my favorite RG build, but in terms of the finished product I have no complaints (outside of maybe the head articulation).

[anime52k8]

FYI, Tamiya acrylic aluminium is better (= smaller metal flakes) than Tamiya acrylic silver.

Turn X! Mead's designs are made for metallic surfaces, with a hint of orange or blue pinstripes on top, please.

and this is why regular alclad is so good IMO, they have the smallest particle size of any paint I've seen, to the point where you can't discern any individual flakes at all when you apply it. That and they're lacquer, so they actually stand up to handling/masking over (testors metalizers are the worst product in the world for this reason).

And yes, turn X would be a good one.

[Hikuro]

so buddy of mine thinks using the backpack of Strike Freedom would be good on the miss sazabi. anyone got a junk HG 1/100 of it?

[GU-11]

FYI, Tamiya acrylic aluminium is better (= smaller metal flakes) than Tamiya acrylic silver.

And that's the one color I didn't buy. Visited the local Tamiya store last week, but all silver metallics have been sold out. Hopefully they'll bring in a new batch soon.

and this is why regular alclad is so good IMO, they have the smallest particle size of any paint I've seen, to the point where you can't discern any individual flakes at all when you apply it. That and they're lacquer, so they actually stand up to handling/masking over (testors metalizers are the worst product in the world for this reason).

That explains why everyone says Alclad paints never clog an AB. But don't you need to clear coat them? I've read that metallizers are generally fragile.

BTW, how are Vallejo metallic paints, in terms of durability and realism? HLJ sells them now, so they could make for a good alternative.

[anime52k8]

Clear coating is optional with Alclad. You can safely mask, decal and weather over it without destroying the finish, and some people prefer the uncoated finish because it looks even more like real metal. I clear coat is good if your going to handle it though.

I've never used Vallejo paints, I think they're primarily meant for warhammer style miniatures. if that's the case they'd need to be good for brush painting and pretty durable.

[GU-11]

Clear coating is optional with Alclad. You can safely mask, decal and weather over it without destroying the finish, and some people prefer the uncoated finish because it looks even more like real metal. I clear coat is good if your going to handle it though.

I've never used Vallejo paints, I think they're primarily meant for warhammer style miniatures. if that's the case they'd need to be good for brush painting and pretty durable.

Thanks! Sounds like I really should give Vallejo paints a try. Hopefully they won't end up being more expensive in the long run. The bottles look like they contain more or less the same amount of paint as a jar of Tamiya acrylic. But since you don't thin them, they won't last nearly as long as Tamiya paints, which can be thinned up to 1-2 parts paint to thinner ratio, especially when you're using lacquer thinner.

BTW, just putting this question out there, but does anyone know of a good substitute (Tamiya acrylics or off-the-shelf spray paint) that's close enough to the Kotobukiya Armored Core CR-389E Oracle Ver.'s shade of blue?

I thought of just painting over all the blue plastic with a similar blue color, but I don't want to cover up the emblem on it's left shoulder pauldron. So, I need the closest possible blue paint for the unpainted parts that are supposed to be blue but are molded in white plastic.

Edited August 10, 2014 by GU-11

[mikeszekely]

I think calling the (relative) simplicity of the Mk.II a weakness was overstating things on my part. In terms of the finished product, the Mk.II is perfect for what it is, and I wouldn't want it to have more gimmicks to potentially make it more fragile and less handle-able. It's only in terms of the build experience that I though the kit was a bit weaker than the others I have done. There was less clever engineering to enjoy (but still plenty). So, not my favorite RG build, but in terms of the finished product I have no complaints (outside of maybe the head articulation).

Ok, that makes more sense, although I honestly can't think of one I've had more fun building. I think you saw the simplicity as less engaging (even if only slightly less so), whereas I saw it as a smoother workflow. Might have helped that it was the 4th I did after Strike Freedom, RX-78, and Zeta.

Anyhow, I started Justice. And by started, I mean I've been busy, I knew I was going to be busy, so I decided to skip over the actual Gundam and start working on his Fatum-00 SFS instead. It took a bit longer than I thought. Building it wasn't a huge deal, but it has a lot of decals... which I already started deviating from the instructions on.

[Hikuro]

not my weekend for gunpla. think I ruined the Miss Sazabi's paint job pretty badly...I'll find out tomorrow morning. I finished my HGUC 1/144 FA Unicorn too, and I don't really like it. I spent to much time trying to add in paint and detailing and I broke a shield that needed to connect to a gatling beam gun cause a shield bit popped off and couldn't get it back on without removing the shield from the gun.....crap crap crap crap crap. Sigh.

Eh, I'll just put it in the back with the ones I don't like lol. But I think I'm pretty much done with building anymore Unicorn Gundam kits.

[mikeszekely]

not my weekend for gunpla. think I ruined the Miss Sazabi's paint job pretty badly...I'll find out tomorrow morning.

I hope it comes out ok.

But I think I'm pretty much done with building anymore Unicorn Gundam kits.

I don't like the FA Unicorn, because all that hardware is just ridonkulous. But I would like a regular Unicorn, a Sinanju, and either a Banshee or Banshee Norn. The HGUC kits are more than I paid for most of my RG kits, though. Tempted to wait and see if at least Unicorn ends up in the RG line, but also kind of afraid that they'd muck it up the way they did Zeta by being too ambitious and attempting to make a 1/144 scale model that transforms between regular and Destroy mode.

Speaking of RG...

Here's the thing about Justice. I like that he's purple, because it does add a little color to a see of red white and blue Gundams. And building the Fatum-00 was cool... probably the most memorable thing about him, actually. Because, take away the purple and take away the Fatum-00, and there's really nothing remarkable about Justice, from a finished POV or the build process itself. I'd go so far as to say that, unless your an RG enthusiast or a Gundam SEED fan, don't bother with Justice.

By the way, the Fatum-00, as you can see from the picture, makes Justice incredibly back-heavy. Much more so than Strike Freedom, Destiny, or even Aile Strike. The only way I could get him to stay even partly upright with the Fatum-00 in backpack mode is to use the wingtips for support. They actually include a piece to help support he Fatum if you want to flip it up and pose it like Justice is firing the cannons over his shoulders, making an Action Base pretty much a requirement, unless you want to pose Justice riding the Fatum.

[Hikuro]

yep, screwed the pooch on my miss sazabi. Gonna get some nail polish remover tomorrow after work.

[anime52k8]

Maybe I'm biased because Athrun is my favorite character from SEED; but I think Justice is one of the cooler looking SEED designs. The RG kit however, is not really my favorite. it suffers from all the same problems as Freedom gundam and then some because the backpack is even more awkwardly large and heavy. In all honestly, even though I like Justice a lot more than Freedom, I got burnt out building it to the point where I never actually decaled it and I still haven't finished building the gun or shield.

I really wish they would do a Proper MG of Justice; I swear it's the only SEED gundam that hasn't gotten one and I think a slightly simpler, larger kit would make more room for a solid build (also make painting, detailing, and creating a legitimate display piece much easier).

Now I really want to pick up an MG infinite Justice.