DarrinG Posted October 15, 2010 Posted October 15, 2010 Thanks - I much prefer the more matt look of the HD, now I have to find one . . . Quote
David Hingtgen Posted October 15, 2010 Posted October 15, 2010 Well, I doubt the Ikaruga would get its own thread---better here than the Transformers thread or something. But anyways: wouldn't you need 2 Ikarugas, one of each color? There's no way to "change" colors. Personally I'd skip a kit for that reason---Ikaruga's "thing" is the color change--both itself and the glowing field around it. Impossible to replicate. Quote
Ghost Train Posted October 15, 2010 Posted October 15, 2010 Well, I doubt the Ikaruga would get its own thread---better here than the Transformers thread or something. But anyways: wouldn't you need 2 Ikarugas, one of each color? There's no way to "change" colors. Personally I'd skip a kit for that reason---Ikaruga's "thing" is the color change--both itself and the glowing field around it. Impossible to replicate. Yea... I'd have to build 2. And 2 Ginkei's when (and if) that rolls around. I actually like the Ginkei a little bit better design-wise, and for purely coincidental reasons I do better in-game with Ginkei than with Ikaruga. Quote
lechuck Posted October 16, 2010 Posted October 16, 2010 Guys I need your help. Looking into trying some Gundam markers, but I'm lost as to which ones to get. Here are some questions to go on: - How do "Slight", "Real touch", "Weathering" and "Basic" markers differ? - How fine or thick are these pens (millimeters) and how do I tell (labeling scheme)? - Which ones do I need if I wanted to do some panel lining and some colouring for small areas like hydraulics, pistons, pipes etc.? - Is there a copper coloured marker out there? - Clear coating necessary after applying? Any help is appreciated, thanks. Quote
VFTF1 Posted October 16, 2010 Posted October 16, 2010 I finished building Guntank a couple weeks ago. Still haven't had a chance to review the original MSG trio - but I will hopefully get around to it soon. Pete Quote
slaginpit Posted October 16, 2010 Posted October 16, 2010 (edited) I finished building Guntank a couple weeks ago. Still haven't had a chance to review the original MSG trio - but I will hopefully get around to it soon. Pete hey buddy good to see your still around and doing gunpla! Looking good Looking good NAAAANIIIIII! Anyway I jumped at getting a victory. I also got the separate core fighters. What can I say Im a sucker for planes. Anyway as much as it looks good, I hate adding Ka Decals cause there are just so many! Decided to work on my other gunpla. But here are a few pictures of this exhausting project and the new pg and non gunpla MGs??? Edited October 16, 2010 by slaginpit Quote
VFTF1 Posted October 16, 2010 Posted October 16, 2010 Very nice Slaginpit. I also built the Victory, but don't have the core booster. Not too interested in getting it; but I do like the Victory. Not interested in the new PG kit - 1/100 is the perfect scale for me. Besides, I never liked the Strike Freedom anyways - so a 1/60 version won't change my mind :-) Pete Quote
Stemp Fester Posted October 17, 2010 Posted October 17, 2010 Guys I need your help. Looking into trying some Gundam markers, but I'm lost as to which ones to get. Here are some questions to go on: - How do "Slight", "Real touch", "Weathering" and "Basic" markers differ? - How fine or thick are these pens (millimeters) and how do I tell (labeling scheme)? - Which ones do I need if I wanted to do some panel lining and some colouring for small areas like hydraulics, pistons, pipes etc.? - Is there a copper coloured marker out there? - Clear coating necessary after applying? Any help is appreciated, thanks. I don't have any of the "Slight" or "Real Touch" markers so I can't comment on those, but the weathering markers (most of them) are not a permanent paint marker as such, and can be smudged, whereas the basic markers are a paint. Most markers have a hard, durable chisel point of about 3mm, some others have a fine point made of the same material (I think). If they're labelled, it's in Japanese so I can't tell however there is a small picture on the side of the marker indicating what type of point it has. I bought these three sets from HLJ and they have been perfect for my needs; Weathering Set - the black marker in this set is great for panel-lining, just run it over where you want it to go then wipe off the excess (I do this with my thumb ). The "Burnt Iron" colour works well as a gun-metal effect, but I'd recommend first putting down a base coat of flat gray (from the Seed Basic set) otherwise it will smudge off easily... Seed Basic Set - good for going over the whiteness you can sometimes getwhen removing nubs. The red, yellow & white in particular need multiple coats when used on dark pieces but look quite good in the end... BB Sangokuden Gundam Marker Set - Metallic paints plus a felt tipped panel lining pen. Good for eyes, hydraulics etc. The panel lining pen isn't very durable imo. I haven't seen a copper coloured marker, but I want one... Also have a look at the Tamiya Weathering Master sets; Weathering Master Set F - this does have a copper colour, but it's not due until November... I haven't progressed to using clear coat yet, but I think it would be useful although I am concerned it might make the colours from the weathering set run, given that they aren't permanent. HTH Quote
anime52k8 Posted October 17, 2010 Posted October 17, 2010 Guys I need your help. Looking into trying some Gundam markers, but I'm lost as to which ones to get. Here are some questions to go on: - How do "Slight", "Real touch", "Weathering" and "Basic" markers differ? - How fine or thick are these pens (millimeters) and how do I tell (labeling scheme)? - Which ones do I need if I wanted to do some panel lining and some colouring for small areas like hydraulics, pistons, pipes etc.? - Is there a copper coloured marker out there? - Clear coating necessary after applying? Any help is appreciated, thanks. I've never seen, nor even heard of "slight" gundam markers. Basic markers are paint Pens with hard plastic chisel tips a couple of millimeters wide. Weathering Markers are just like the regular markers only in "weathering" colors (i.e. dirt, rust, ash and bare metal colors). there are also some marketed as "ultra fine" tip makers, those are just like the regular makers, except they have fine pointed tips instead of chisel tips. Real touch makers are double ended, felt tipped makers. they're ink instead of paint, and are really only good for panel lining, but they do come in a verity of colors. they also make couple of fine tip gundam markers which are .5mm felt tips pens. they're the best for panel lining but they only come in black, grey and brown. so the gundam marker fin tips and the real touch markers are the best for panel lining and the regular types are the best for detailing. I've never found a copper colored pen. Quote
Vifam7 Posted October 17, 2010 Posted October 17, 2010 I haven't progressed to using clear coat yet, but I think it would be useful although I am concerned it might make the colours from the weathering set run, given that they aren't permanent. HTH Clear coating is highly recommended if you're going to cover broad areas with paint. Here's some things to know when clear coating. 1. Know what kind of paint you want to use to color your model. There are 3 main types of paint. Acrylic, Enamel, and Lacquer. 2. Know what kind of clear coat you want. Do you want a flat finish, semi-gloss finish, or glossy finish. For painting newbies, I recommend using a flat clear coat. 3. There are generally 2 types of clear coat paint. Acrylic paint clear coat and lacquer paint clear coat. Acrylic clear coat is pretty much safe on any paint. Do not use lacquer clear coat like Tamiya's TS-80 or Testor's Dullcote on models painted with acrylic paint. Most of the Gundam markers are acrylic paint. Note: When panel-lining I recommend using gray on light colored parts and black on dark colored parts. Quote
Stemp Fester Posted October 17, 2010 Posted October 17, 2010 Do not use lacquer clear coat like Tamiya's TS-80 Ha! I just bought a can of that yesterday - just as well I haven't tried to use it then... is there a Tamiya flat clear coat suitable for acrylics and do you know the part number? Luckily the store I bought it from is just down the road from my work and they have a pretty extensive range of Tamiya paints so I should be able to exchange it. Lately for panel-lining I've been using a Copic Warm Gray fine point pen - results are good so far! Quote
anime52k8 Posted October 17, 2010 Posted October 17, 2010 1. Know what kind of paint you want to use to color your model. There are 3 main types of paint. Acrylic, Enamel, and Lacquer. 3. There are generally 2 types of clear coat paint. Acrylic paint clear coat and lacquer paint clear coat. Acrylic clear coat is pretty much safe on any paint. Do not use lacquer clear coat like Tamiya's TS-80 or Testor's Dullcote on models painted with acrylic paint. I feel like this needs some clarification. in regards to Acrylics vs. Enamels vs. Lacquer: these are the three most common types of paint you'll see/use for models. As a general rule, when you put layers of paint over each other, you want to work from the "hottest" to "coolest" paints. what that means is paints thinned with very strong solvents ("hot") or weak solvents (cool). Generally speaking, lacquer based paints have the strongest solvents, Enamels (which use paint thinner/mineral spirits) are in the middle, and Acrylics (which are thinned with water or rubbing alcohol) are the weakest. The reason you want to avoid putting layers of Lacquer over layers of acrylic is that the stronger solvents in the lacquer can react with the underlying paint and ruin your paint job. That said, there ARE some exceptions. first, Testor's dullcote and there other "lacquer" based clears either aren't really lacquer or are at least much weaker than other brands of lacquer as I've frequently used Dullcote over testors Enamels and never had problems with it. Second. In regard to TS-80; if all you're doing is panel lining and picking out details with your gundam markers, it's ok to apply TS-80 over it. just make sure the paint and panel lines are completely dry (set it aside for a couple days) and apply the TS-80 in light mist coats and it should be fine. Ha! I just bought a can of that yesterday - just as well I haven't tried to use it then... is there a Tamiya flat clear coat suitable for acrylics and do you know the part number? Luckily the store I bought it from is just down the road from my work and they have a pretty extensive range of Tamiya paints so I should be able to exchange it. The only Flat clear that Tamiya sells in spray can form is TS-80. the only acrylic clear Tamiya sells is X-22, which is a gloss clear in a bottle. you would need to also get Tamiya X-21 flat base and mix up your own flat clear, and you would need to either brush paint it on or get some sort of airbrush setup to spray it on. The only flat clear acrylic spray specifically for modeling that can I can think of is Mr. Topcoat flat. Of course, you can always head to your local hardware store and check out there spray paint section. you should be able to find a Clear acrylic that way (I know Krylon makes one) what ever you do decide to go with, just be sure to use light mist coats and slowly build up the clear layer. Quote
Stemp Fester Posted October 17, 2010 Posted October 17, 2010 What about this one? Tamiya PS-55 Flat Clear - it's for Polycarbonate though if that makes a difference... Quote
Snail00 Posted October 17, 2010 Posted October 17, 2010 (edited) Tools of the trade Edited October 17, 2010 by Snail00 Quote
David Hingtgen Posted October 17, 2010 Posted October 17, 2010 Polycarb paints are very different---that's what they're labeled as such. And generally, they are even hotter than lacquers--they will eat many plastics, not just paint and decals. Quote
VF-19 Posted October 24, 2010 Posted October 24, 2010 I'm working on the HGUC Delta Plus (really hoping for a MG sometime soon), and I'm wondering what would be a good match for the blue-grey body colour in Tamiya paints? I've tried matching the greys I've got, but they're either too grey (light or dark), or not blue enough. I know the obvious thing is to mix paints myself, but if Tamiya has a colour out there that's close, I'd rather buy a tin. I've browsed through tamiya's website and paint selection, but given that the blue on the site looks really like teal (despite the sample paint jar below looking correct), I don't trust the colour chips on the site. Quote
anime52k8 Posted October 24, 2010 Posted October 24, 2010 My MG Rezel shipped from amiami yesterday, and now it's in SF customs. hopefully it will be here Monday or Tuesday. I've also got an MG Deathscythe EW coming from hobbyWave so I've got plenty of stuff to build, unfortunately fall finally decided to catch up with the bay area and now we've got nothing but cold and rain Quote
Snail00 Posted October 25, 2010 Posted October 25, 2010 My MG Rezel shipped from amiami yesterday, and now it's in SF customs. hopefully it will be here Monday or Tuesday. I've also got an MG Deathscythe EW coming from hobbyWave so I've got plenty of stuff to build, unfortunately fall finally decided to catch up with the bay area and now we've got nothing but cold and rain Please provide a review and pics im on the fence on this one. It seems has the basic structure as the V2 Zeta which is good but not that fond of. Thanks! Quote
anime52k8 Posted October 26, 2010 Posted October 26, 2010 (edited) MG ReZEL arrived today! Had a chance to take it out of box and go over the parts, I'll get to building tonight and will have more pictures+review tomorrow night (I hope ). box is a standard large box, thin box (same size as the force impulse gundam). lots of plates. mold quality, color separation, part count etc. are all what you'd expect form a 2010 master grade. I especially like how many clear lens parts it has, and that they're all molded in a very bright pink color. I was a little worried at first that it came with such a large sheet of polycaps, but the instructions have all but a dozen crossed out so I don't think it will be too polycap heavy. 4 ABS plates (mostly the legs and torso.) I don't think it's A complete, freestanding ABS inner frame but it's pretty good. the sticker/decal sheet. the metallic stickers for the lenses appear completely unnecessary as the lenses are tinted plastic. I was kind of disappointed that it has such a small sheet of rub transfers and only a generic sticker sheet. I personally like the Katoki bumper-sticker look, and I was disappointed that bandai didn't give you the stickers necessary to do a marking scheme like the GFFN release. also it doesn't look like bandai will be doing a water-slide decal release for this any time soon, so I went ahead and ordered a set from Samuel decals. I really like the manual for this one. It's standard master grade on the inside, but rather than the ugly textures on the front and single product shot on the back, you get a clean version of the box art on front and front/back shots of the MS and wave rider modes on the back. first impressions are good and I can't wait to get building. I don't have a Zeta 2.0 to compare this one to so I can't say how similar it is but I'll be sure to take lots of pictures. (I can't wait to check out the transformation. Edited October 26, 2010 by anime52k8 Quote
Snail00 Posted October 26, 2010 Posted October 26, 2010 MG ReZEL arrived today! Had a chance to take it out of box and go over the parts, I'll get to building tonight and will have more pictures+review tomorrow night (I hope ). box is a standard large box, thin box (same size as the force impulse gundam). lots of plates. mold quality, color separation, part count etc. are all what you'd expect form a 2010 master grade. I especially like how many clear lens parts it has, and that they're all molded in a very bright pink color. I was a little worried at first that it came with such a large sheet of polycaps, but the instructions have all but a dozen crossed out so I don't think it will be too polycap heavy. 4 ABS plates (mostly the legs and torso.) I don't think it's A complete, freestanding ABS inner fra me but it's pretty good. the sticker/decal sheet. the metallic stickers for the lenses appear completely unnecessary as the lenses are tinted plastic. I was kind of disappointed that it has such a small sheet of rub transfers and only a generic sticker sheet. I personally like the Katoki bumper-sticker look, and I was disappointed that bandai didn't give you the stickers necessary to do a marking scheme like the GFFN release. also it doesn't look like bandai will be doing a water-slide decal release for this any time soon, so I went ahead and ordered a set from Samuel decals. I really like the manual for this one. It's standard master grade on the inside, but rather than the ugly textures on the front and single product shot on the back, you get a clean version of the box art on front and front/back shots of the MS and wave rider modes on the back. first impressions are good and I can't wait to get building. I don't have a Zeta 2.0 to compare this one to so I can't say how similar it is but I'll be sure to take lots of pictures. (I can't wait to check out the transformation. looks good so far Quote
Beltane70 Posted October 26, 2010 Posted October 26, 2010 The MG ReZEL model is the one kit that I'm allowing myself to buy on my upcoming Japan trip next month. Quote
anime52k8 Posted October 26, 2010 Posted October 26, 2010 quicky update on MG ReZEL: really loving the build so far. Ended up working all night non-stop and got the entire body done, Now I just need to finish the backpack and weapons (lucky for all my classes are canceled today ). just handling it so far it's quite impressive. It's very nicely articulated although it can be a little bit fiddly, and a few pieces like to pop off here and there but overall very nice. I'm actually surprised just how big this guy is. It's actually almost as tall and just as beefy as my GFFMC Unicorn gundam in destroy mode, and that's without the ReZEL's backpack or weapons. Quote
Snail00 Posted October 27, 2010 Posted October 27, 2010 quicky update on MG ReZEL: really loving the build so far. Ended up working all night non-stop and got the entire body done, Now I just need to finish the backpack and weapons (lucky for all my classes are canceled today ). just handling it so far it's quite impressive. It's very nicely articulated although it can be a little bit fiddly, and a few pieces like to pop off here and there but overall very nice. I'm actually surprised just how big this guy is. It's actually almost as tall and just as beefy as my GFFMC Unicorn gundam in destroy mode, and that's without the ReZEL's backpack or weapons. Pics/Review please Credit Card on Standby Quote
anime52k8 Posted October 28, 2010 Posted October 28, 2010 alright, finally got around to taking a few pics. first let me say that this thing ROCKS. I really enjoyed building this thing and I love the way it looks. I should note that the color in the pictures aren't completely accurate. the main armor color tends to photograph bright blue, but is much more of a teal color in person. IMG_0871 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr; IMG_0872 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr; IMG_0873 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr The kit has some really excellent detail on it. the lenses on the face, torso and shoulders all have very nice mechanical detail behind them. the included paper sticker sheet is meant to go either on or behind each of the lenses but they're really not necessary. IMG_0876 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr; IMG_0882 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr The cockpit opens, and the pilot is actually quite visible so you may want to paint him. IMG_0888 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr the beam rifle is nice, although it's kind of odd that the lens on it faces towards the mecha (I guess so the pilot can admire his sweet looking robot while he's shooting stuff). The shield is nicely detailed and I like the overall shape, but from the top it's kind of just a slab of teal (I'm thinking about painting it with a jagged section of dark blue like on Hi-Nu gundam's shield). On problem I do have with the shield though is that the tab isn't perfectly secure. It holds the shield on fine but it's easy to knock off while posing. IMG_0879 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr; IMG_0887 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr there are a couple other parts that do fall off. The white pieces on the arms (picture) can be knocked off if you grab them while posing the arms and the side skirts can be pulled off easily while transforming it. in both cases it's a little annoying but the parts pop right back on (also the white parts can be glued down without any negative effect. IMG_0889 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr (continued...) Quote
anime52k8 Posted October 28, 2010 Posted October 28, 2010 (edited) (...continued) The transformation to Wave rider mode employs some really interesting mechanism's to maintain Perfect transformation and, while tricky to pull off at first, the result is an excellent looking Wave Rider form. Probably the coolest parts are the mechanism's used to move the arms and legs into position. The arm uses 4~5 peg joints to allow the arm to maintain full range of motion while still being able to pivot down and in like the Zeta gundam for Wave Rider mode. The legs are even more impressive, with a sliding extension concealed in the hip socket, and a plate that keeps the legs securely connected to the crotch piece while allowing the whole assembly to pivot out and rotate on a ball joint to get it into position. The mechanism on the legs can be a little troublesome at first however. The parts work by having plates that snap into the sides of the crotch in MS mode and pivot on ball joints to get the legs into wave rider mode. Un-snapping the panels for the first few times takes a lot of force, more than enough to pop the ball joints out and completely remove the legs. A bit annoying, but it's easy to re-attach the legs and after a few transformations the process gets much easier. Overall the transformation is effective, although I wish there where a few more tabs that locked in place. The whole thing holds itself together well enough but I would have liked it if the legs actually tabbed in to something at the ankle like on the HGUC kit. IMG_0895 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr; IMG_0894 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr IMG_0898 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr; IMG_0897 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr one thing I found odd was that the kit is completely Perfect transformation except for one element. The instructions indicate that you are supposed to remove the hands when you put it into wave rider mode, but I've found that you can fold them up against the arms where they look fine and don't get in the way of anything. IMG_0899 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr The backpack, while cool looking, is kind of a weak point on the kit overall. first off, while it's possible to transform the kit with the backpack attached, it tends to get in the way and it's much easier to just remove it, complete the rest of the transformation than put it back on. Also, I've noticed that the gray part that makes up the center of the backpack has a tendency to separate when you transform the boosters; after I paint the kit I'm probably going to glue that part together. Over all, the boosters are effective and look good but there are a few extra features I wished they had. First and foremost, there should have been some sort of tab that locks them to the legs in Wave rider mode. there IS a tab that connects them to the body so they don't move, but I wish they connected to the legs which would have made them more secure and solved my lack of leg tab complaint. also, I would have liked to have seen the boosters on ball joints like the GFFN toy has so that there would be some extra pose-ability in MS mode. It's not a big deal however and was probably left out because of the transformation. IMG_0900 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr As a whole, I really love this kit. It does have a few minor flaws but nothing that takes away from how impressive and enjoyable this kit is. The build process is intuitive and well thought out, and the final product is a beautiful looking robot with lots of articulation and a really interesting transformation to a solid Alt mode. If you're a fan of the ReZEL, GET THIS KIT. If you like the look of Gundam UC MS's or Katoki mecha in general, GET THIS KIT. If you like kits with impressive engineering and/or cool transformations, GET THIS KIT. If you just want an Unusual/interesting MS for your collection, GET THIS KIT. Really the only possible reasons I can think of not to get this kit is if you A) absolutely HATE the design of the ReZEL, or B) are waiting until January for the Commander type to come out. And if you ARE waiting for the Commander type, Get Both. That way you can have one in each mode. IMG_0902 by anime52k8@sbcglobal.net, on Flickr Edited October 28, 2010 by anime52k8 Quote
Snail00 Posted October 28, 2010 Posted October 28, 2010 (edited) Wow that looks amazing! How much of it is inner frame. The Zeta 2.0 has the legs a bit of the body but this thing looks like it may have a complete inner frame. And it looks huge too!~ Seems Dalong finished his OH Boy It has a full inner frame! Bought it just now on ebay! Edited October 28, 2010 by Snail00 Quote
GRAND CANNON Posted November 4, 2010 Posted November 4, 2010 http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/iam-cybergundam/article?mid=59925 HGUC: 116. RGM-79N GM Custom (1/2011) MG: 140. RGZ-95C ReZEL (Commander type) (1/2011) Quote
DarrinG Posted November 5, 2010 Posted November 5, 2010 Can someone explain 1/100 Resin Conversion Kits that require the MG Bandai kit? Like Sazabi Patchwork Conversion Kit - or the RX-93 Evolve 5 Conversion Kit (both sold by gunpla sg) Does the MG kit have the insides and the resin just give you really cool, more detailed outer parts? Quote
VF-19 Posted November 5, 2010 Posted November 5, 2010 Somewhat. You'll use most of the MG for the conversion, and then use the conversion pieces to turn it into whatever the resin kit converts. It WILL require painting. Quote
DarrinG Posted November 5, 2010 Posted November 5, 2010 Can someone on this thread describe how much better / cooler the conversion pieces are over the ones they're replacing in the MG kit? Quote
SilentCrossHairs Posted November 5, 2010 Posted November 5, 2010 I have built a few MGs in my time but the PG Strike Gundam was a joy to build. I just wish they had a few more PG kits to choose from. Not a big fan of the Strike Freedom or the Double 0 and not familiar with the Astray. But I must say the MG ReZel looks really sharp and has nice lines. Quote
Archer Posted November 5, 2010 Posted November 5, 2010 I have built a few MGs in my time but the PG Strike Gundam was a joy to build. I just wish they had a few more PG kits to choose from. Not a big fan of the Strike Freedom or the Double 0 and not familiar with the Astray. But I must say the MG ReZel looks really sharp and has nice lines. Yeah, I really like the look and design feel of the ReZEL. It feels like its supposed to be an actual all purpose machine built for combat rather than some uber crazy main character gimmick filled gundam that we have seen before. I really hope we'll be able to see a PG ReZEL sometime in the future. I think, based on the great quality of the mg, that a new transforming PG could really boost the line. Quote
Snail00 Posted November 6, 2010 Posted November 6, 2010 Yeah, I really like the look and design feel of the ReZEL. It feels like its supposed to be an actual all purpose machine built for combat rather than some uber crazy main character gimmick filled gundam that we have seen before. I really hope we'll be able to see a PG ReZEL sometime in the future. I think, based on the great quality of the mg, that a new transforming PG could really boost the line. Got that STRAIGHT! Quote
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