Gundam Plamodel Thread IV

[areaseven]

Here's a closer look at the Mega Size Model RX-78-2 Gundam. It's too bad Bandai stopped this Gunpla line after AGE blew up on them.

[Hikuro]

Here's a closer look at the Mega Size Model RX-78-2 Gundam. It's too bad Bandai stopped this Gunpla line after AGE blew up on them.

It was an expensive kit for what you get as a glorified large HG when you can get a PG with much more for almost the same price in some degree. I'd only recommend a Mega Grade for those who are die hard Gundam fans, even I own one.

I goofed around tonight while waiting on turkey to finish and finished my Pale Rider kit. Then I took parts of it and my 7th Gundam and interchanged them to make these monstrosities.

Honestly? I like them both! But now I'm totally focused on making either one of these a reality. Most likely using parts of the 7th Gundam as I have a spare kit....probably will change the head maybe into the Thunderbolt version or something else I haven't decided.

I do want to change out the backpack but the Pale Rider version isn't exactly compatible it's a little to wide and low.

It uses the two hole system going side to side so if anyone has ideas I'm open to suggestions.

I also have an HD weapons pack and some other bonus parts to make the kitbash a little more unique. But I like the build idea so much that this would be my own custom Build Fighters model.

[renegadeleader1]

Just wanted to give everyone in the New England area a heads up, The Comic Store in Nashua New Hampshire is having its annual Black Friday sale with 20% off of Gundam kits. This is the place the wall of gundam photos aka gundam valhalla are from.

[areaseven]

Can't wait to get mine. Might even buy two so I can mod the second one into the Build Gundam Mk-II.

[badboy00z]

So I started on the MG Nu Gundam Ver. Ka. Progress will be slow because I don't have much time to work on it.

These are the colors I'll be using. Matt White, Silver Leaf, German Grey, Gun Metal, Light Gun Metal, Titanium Gold and Clear Red. All spoons primed with Tamiya Fine Grey primer. The Gold and Red are backed with the Silver Leaf. The red turned out nice but I don't like the gold. Came out too dark and not the bright yellowish gold that I want so I'll probably not use it. All the red parts of the kit and the Amuro base will be the metallic red. The frame will be a three maybe four tone scheme with Gun Metal, Light Gun Metal, Silver and Gold. The off white parts on the kit will be left primer grey. lol

Also bored out the head vulcans. Looks much better.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Can't wait to see it. Nu Ver.Ka looks fantastic painted and decaled up.

[areaseven]

It's coming...

RE/100 NZ-666 Kshatriya - Release Info [in Planning]

[badboy00z]

Can't wait to see it. Nu Ver.Ka looks fantastic painted and decaled up.

Yeah. I've been watching reviews and WIPs of this kit on Youtube and it's giving me a few ideas. This one guy used Sharpie paint markers to detail the inner frame and it looks amazing.

Personally I'm thinking about using magnets to hold the fin funnels and a custom LED setup for light up head.

[seti88]

It's coming...

[anime52k8]

It's coming...

RE/100 NZ-666 Kshatriya - Release Info [in Planning]

I'm excited.

[SchizophrenicMC]

[HEAVY BREATHING]

[mechaninac]

It's coming...

[snip]

RE/100 NZ-666 Kshatriya - Release Info [in Planning]

[Guest davidwhangchoi]

from toys daily

Edited December 7, 2015 by davidwhangchoi

[VF-Zer0S]

That ship looks awesome.

[badboy00z]

Hey guys, what's an alternative to Gundam Paint Marker remover? http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM300/Sup

I have some oil based paint markers so would enamel thinner/ mineral spirits work?

I broken the tab on the standard beam saber!! :angry:

Edited December 7, 2015 by badboy00z

[areaseven]

Hey guys, what's an alternative to Gundam Paint Marker remover? http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM300/Sup

I have some oil based paint markers so would enamel thinner/ mineral spirits work?

I broken the tab on the standard beam saber!! :angry:

Since Gundam Marker is alcohol-based, you can use isopropyl alcohol to remove excess paint.

[badboy00z]

Since Gundam Marker is alcohol-based, you can use isopropyl alcohol to remove excess paint.

The sharpie paint markers I'm using is oil based.

[SchizophrenicMC]

The sharpie paint markers I'm using is oil based.

Sharpie is alcohol soluble.

Actually it's been my experience that pretty much any marking you put on a model kit is going to dissolve to some level if wiped with alcohol. Especially paint markers.

[areaseven]

Got my hands full this Christmas.

[Golden Arms]

Nice Hauls A7! I'm going to build the PG unicorn and RG red astray. I also have the 1/60 LED kit and PG Banshee norn on preorder.

[badboy00z]

Sharpie is alcohol soluble.

Actually it's been my experience that pretty much any marking you put on a model kit is going to dissolve to some level if wiped with alcohol. Especially paint markers.

I see. I have some dollar store brand alcohol and that doesn't really seem to do much. It just kind of smears the ink all over the place. I have the pour type Gundam marker and it doesn't like to work on paint surfaces as it just blobs at the point of application and doesn't run down the panel line. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?

Also what's the best way to go about getting replacement tabs for the beam sabers? Or am I pretty much SOL?

[SchizophrenicMC]

Make sure you get 90% isopropyl alcohol or a higher concentration if it's available locally. Use q-tips dampened in the alcohol to rub the paint off.

[Hikuro]

I typically use 70% when I'm panel lining but if you got to wipe it out yeah 90-100% will kick its ass and leave no survivors.

[badboy00z]

I've been using 50% alcohol. Lol.

[SchizophrenicMC]

I use isopropanol exclusively for killing things. No need to go less than 90%.

[Hikuro]

I've been using 50% alcohol. Lol.

On the paint liner pens I got, they work decently on 50%, but the black pen won't disappear as easily on mistakes.

[badboy00z]

I just bought some 91% and it works wonders. Maybe a little too well as it takes too much off if I'm not careful. How long do you guys let the ink dry before cleaning it up?

[Hikuro]

I just bought some 91% and it works wonders. Maybe a little too well as it takes too much off if I'm not careful. How long do you guys let the ink dry before cleaning it up?

Depends how you're building. I cut all my parts, clean nubs then apply my stuff. By the time I finish cutting next set of parts I'll start cleaning. Sooooooo let's say 20 minutes should be nicely set.

[badboy00z]

How do you guys prevent wiping off the ink in the panel lines? Using q tips even with not a lot of alcohol takes off too much. I tried using a folded up paper towel and that seems to work a bit better.

[SchizophrenicMC]

Very light, deliberate motion perpendicular to the panel line, with the cotton swab moistened in alcohol and then dabbed off onto a cloth or napkin. Start as easy as possible and work your way up in the toughness of your removal as needed. Use other methods as needed, such as your paper towel wipe. The thing to remember about model building is, while there is chemistry, there's not any real science to it. You work with generally correct methods and refine as needed for the application. I've had builds where I burn through a whole box of Q-tips, and I've had builds where I just about use none. Use every tool at your disposal.

[sketchley]

How do you guys prevent wiping off the ink in the panel lines? Using q tips even with not a lot of alcohol takes off too much. I tried using a folded up paper towel and that seems to work a bit better.

Wait until what you're wiping off is dry. Then, with a damp (not soaked) Q-tip, gently wipe the top surface (so as to not press the Q-tip) into the groove) of the direction of air flow over the vehicle.

This technique works for my go-to of choice - black watercolour in acrylic paint thinner (using thinner on the applicator), so it may not have the same results for you. Therefore, try it first on an underside (or whatever) part of the kit that people aren't going to be looking at the most.

Another option I've found that works with the Gundam Markers is to use an eraser. As time progressed, I found that even the pad of the thumb works to provide enough friction to remove the excess.

Edited December 12, 2015 by sketchley

[anubis20]

Finished 3 funnels for the MG Hi-Nu Ka... Those purple decals were a huge pain in the ass... Lesson learned, next time im painting them. Now i just need to finish the other 3 funnels and im done with this kit. Goal is to finish it before the end of 2015.

Edited December 16, 2015 by anubis20

[Guest davidwhangchoi]

anubis, that looks so pro...

[anubis20]

Thanks man!

I need a simple kit after this one.

[Big s]

I was wondering why bandai doesn't include waterside decals with most of their gundam kits. They put them in with their votoms, macross and even the Star Wars figure kits, but not for hg, rg, or sometimes they don't put them in mg or pg or other gundam kits.