Gundam Plamodel Thread IV

[areaseven]

The MG RX-78-2 Gundam Ver.3.0 GFT (4,628 yen at Gundam Front Tokyo) is a gloss recolor of the standard MG kit, so yeah, it's a bit of a letdown in terms of exclusivity. But it's still a fun and involving build. Despite some small nub marks, I'll leave this as a straight build and then apply gray panel lining and decals as a memento of my visit to Tokyo last month.

Edited June 10, 2015 by areaseven

[areaseven]

Finished detailing the MG RX-78-2 Gundam Ver.3.0 GFT. As my first MG kit in over a decade, I'm very impressed with how such an iconic design has evolved as a model kit. Sure, many modelers have accused this kit of being an upsized RG kit, but while both kits look the same, the inner frame assembly is completely different.

For the panel lining, I used gray Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color, then cleaned off the excess with Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish on a cotton swab and microfiber towel.

Now I'm wondering if I should pick up the 2.0 or any of the older MG RX-78-2 Gundam kits.

Edited June 10, 2015 by areaseven

[Hikuro]

Finished detailing the MG RX-78-2 Gundam Ver.3.0 GFT. As my first MG kit in over a decade, I'm very impressed with how such an iconic design has evolved as a model kit. Sure, many modelers have accused this kit of being an upsized RG kit, but while both kits look the same, the inner frame assembly is completely different.

For the panel lining, I used gray Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color, then cleaned off the excess with Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish on a cotton swab and microfiber towel.

Now I'm wondering if I should pick up the 2.0 or any of the older MG RX-78-2 Gundam kits.

Coolness, I kinda like the color tones better than the regular which has a lot more separation.

I just bought some paint for my Delta Plus. Sadly the shop had no Neutral Gray so I gotta special order it

[Hikuro]

Wiring was a tad difficult, the illustrations weren't very clear to me. I had to research on sites and found something that worked and it clicked on what was wrong.

Atleast the build came out well. Now I'm disassembling it and making corrections to the plating so open hatch works a bit better, weathering it just a smidge and adding decals.

[Hikuro]

I began phase three tonight.

I'm not a big fan of these after market decals as they don't seem to stick to the frame very well even though it's been clear flat coated so that should add some bonding strength to it compared to smooth plastic. Not too mention while the decals looked combined together like any other decal I've used, these were individually contoured cut and I HATE it. But I shall continue.

[McFly!!]

Hik, you sir, are a paragon of determination and perseverance!

[Kelsain]

So it's been a while since I've done this, and I usually paint.

Working on the RG, I've gotten up to the torso. And I gotta say, I did a pretty piss-poor job of cutting the blue.

For those of you that just build & panel-line, what techniques do you use to trim down the nibs?

Fortunately, these ugly spots should be covered up by the shoulder armor most of the time.

[mikeszekely]

Mostly I cut the nibs with a hobby knife. If it still looks bad, I'll use a file.

[mikeszekely]

My RG G3 finally came today. That is all.

[Hikuro]

It would be a lot better if bandai kept to under gating to at least minimize the potential of nub marks. Some kits even high grades have gotten some under gating on certain trees but not all and it's a bummer.

I can't completely get rid of them but I try my best to make it better.

This weekend I start on my 2nd hguc sazabi as a full paint job. I should be able to complete all the priming today.

BUT same time I'm also working on a customized stand for my zeta unit 3. Priorities right?!

[Vifam7]

Poorly adhering decals (just about every Gundam related waterslide decal ever, in my experience) can be dealt with by using a decal setting/softening solution like Mr. Mark Setter or Mr. Mark Softener. Not using decal setting/softening solution can sometimes result in the decals coming off with the slightest touch even if you have sprayed a clear coat.

[Guest davidwhangchoi]

My RG G3 finally came today. That is all.

finally! congrats

[Hikuro]

Poorly adhering decals (just about every Gundam related waterslide decal ever, in my experience) can be dealt with by using a decal setting/softening solution like Mr. Mark Setter or Mr. Mark Softener. Not using decal setting/softening solution can sometimes result in the decals coming off with the slightest touch even if you have sprayed a clear coat.

Since those aren't available in any hobbystore within a hundred mile radius I use Micro Sol and or Micro Set, they do a fairly decent job. In this case what I really am gonna need to do is trim those decals excessively before soaking. They're not very well cut at all and it's annoying.

I've kind of shifted gears now and going to gear up on my Sazabi tomorrow morning after my Zeta unit 3 photoshoot is done. The base is colored and clear coated. I made a quick Amuro Unicorn logo out of red scrap from work in 4 different sizes. One of those is bound to work. So could be an interesting morning.

[David Hingtgen]

Japanese-made decals often seem to react to HOT water better than decal set/softener. Don't burn yourself, but get the water friggin HOT before you dip them---see if it helps. (this is very true for Hasegawa, not sure about Bandai)

[Hikuro]

Japanese-made decals often seem to react to HOT water better than decal set/softener. Don't burn yourself, but get the water friggin HOT before you dip them---see if it helps. (this is very true for Hasegawa, not sure about Bandai)

Except they're neither Bandai or typical brand, these are fan made decals.....which makes me think he did it on decal paper after some editing digitally then sprayed with a clear gloss. I got these from some guy in China thru ebay. For instance if you look at the shoulders, it's 4 pieces of decals, but on normal bandai stickers, that'd be at least 2, bottom half, then the top corner. Nope, every piece is a decal. Luckily once the big stuff is done it'll be a ton easier to apply on those smaller ones. It's just consistency and alignment is insanely difficult.

Also i'm swearing off Krylon spray for good. The clear satin did something to the paint I worked hard on to the base, it dissolved and deteriorated the paint in certain areas. I'll have to either soak the parts in thinner to remove it which will take forever, or primer lightly and apply again.

Edited June 13, 2015 by Hikuro

[Scyla]

I started to build the RG Justice Gundam and I was shocked to discover that they didn't include foil stickers for the head camera, the transparent fin and the gun sight. Is there a type of Gundam Marker that makes coloring these parts in a translucent blue easy?

[Hikuro]

FINALLY! FINISHED! HAH! Okay what's next?

[mog_kupo]

I started to build the RG Justice Gundam and I was shocked to discover that they didn't include foil stickers for the head camera, the transparent fin and the gun sight. Is there a type of Gundam Marker that makes coloring these parts in a translucent blue easy?

I ended up gettin a Tamiya Clear Blue spray, the Metalic Gundam marker just dint seem nice enough

[David Hingtgen]

When it comes to clear, Testor's "Transparent Blue" spray is surprisingly nice paint. (it's about the only clear spray they make, asides from Smoke).

*plain basic original Testors line. Not their model master, custom-car, lacquer, or anything else--just the most standard basic Testors spray display---it's in that section.

[mikeszekely]

My internet was out all day (figures, with all the E3 news), so I was working on my G3. Still have the head, core fighter, and weapons to do. I'm happy because this is the third time for me building that mold, and for the first time I didn't break a leg.

[areaseven]

I used to have this kit. For a Gunpla that's almost 30 years old, it's still impressive. Shame that the joints on this example don't hold well anymore.

[mikeszekely]

Well, my internet came back... then went back out, and has been out all day again. The super irritating thing is that a Comcast tech called, said everything looked ok remotely, and wanted to cancel the house call I had scheduled for today. I told them not to, that I wanted the outside lines checked, but they insisted that everything was fine. 10 minutes later, no internet, they want me to open a new ticket, and now I can't get a service all until Thursday.

Anyway... that meant time to finish my G3 before availing myself of the free wi-fi (and an iced coffee) at my local Dunkin Donuts.

I don't really have anything new to add about the mold. It still makes for a great-looking, detailed kit, but compared to newer RGs it does show it's age a little. As with the RG Casval, you get the regular decal sheet for the RG RX-78 and a second smaller set of waterslides. I wish that they'd included more G3 decals... a lot of the white caution marks were intended to be placed on a blue surface. Actually the direction sort of indicate that the decals are supposed to be an either/or thing. You're supposed to put the black III on the left shoulder and the black G3 on the right side of the chest, or you use the gray G3 instead of the III and a small EFSF mark on the chest, with another EFSF for the right shoulder. I don't like not using all the decals I'm given, though, so I put the black III under the EFSF mark on the right shoulder, the gray G3 on the left shoulder, the small EFSF mark on the chest, and the black G3 on the left knee.

Overall, though, I like this kit, but that's mostly because the RX-78-3 is my favorite of the RX-78s, and I like the look better than the RX-78-2 or the Casval.

[Guest davidwhangchoi]

Well, my internet came back... then went back out, and has been out all day again. The super irritating thing is that a Comcast tech called, said everything looked ok remotely, and wanted to cancel the house call I had scheduled for today. I told them not to, that I wanted the outside lines checked, but they insisted that everything was fine. 10 minutes later, no internet, they want me to open a new ticket, and now I can't get a service all until Thursday.

Anyway... that meant time to finish my G3 before availing myself of the free wi-fi (and an iced coffee) at my local Dunkin Donuts.

IMG_20150616_111812.jpg

I don't really have anything new to add about the mold. It still makes for a great-looking, detailed kit, but compared to newer RGs it does show it's age a little. As with the RG Casval, you get the regular decal sheet for the RG RX-78 and a second smaller set of waterslides. I wish that they'd included more G3 decals... a lot of the white caution marks were intended to be placed on a blue surface. Actually the direction sort of indicate that the decals are supposed to be an either/or thing. You're supposed to put the black III on the left shoulder and the black G3 on the right side of the chest, or you use the gray G3 instead of the III and a small EFSF mark on the chest, with another EFSF for the right shoulder. I don't like not using all the decals I'm given, though, so I put the black III under the EFSF mark on the right shoulder, the gray G3 on the left shoulder, the small EFSF mark on the chest, and the black G3 on the left knee.

IMG_20150616_111834.jpg

Overall, though, I like this kit, but that's mostly because the RX-78-3 is my favorite of the RX-78s, and I like the look better than the RX-78-2 or the Casval.

looks good Mike

[Kelsain]

So I've made progress on my Real Grade 78-2, and I gotta say , this thing is pretty awesome. I'm already eyeing the Zaku as my next kit.

Honestly, I'm not as bothered by the size as I'd thought I'd be. And comparing the photos of the MG vs RG MkII Titans leaves the MG wanting.

I may be coming around to 1/144 scale, after all.

Perhaps I should try a HG kit next, to see if I'm satisfied with the detail.

[chyll2]

@kelsain

as long as it is a modern HG kit, it should be good enough.

[IXTL]

P-Bandai RG Z'Gok Mass Production coming soon

[mikeszekely]

Perhaps I should try a HG kit next, to see if I'm satisfied with the detail.

It honestly depends on the kit, and how much work you want to do. Newer kits and Zeon MS tend to come out a little bit better. Older kits are missing more detail, and Gundams can look really dull without panel lining. If you're as anal about detail as I am, almost every HG kit I've built has needed at least a little paint, usually yellow and/or black around verniers or head vulcans.

If you go the extra mile, though, an HG can look really good. My favorite kit that I've built is actually an HG Sinanju. I painted all of the red parts with an automotive lacquer that had a bright metallic sheen, and used a gold sharpie and a clear coat to detail all the gold trim on the black parts. I almost ordered the waterslide decals to give it all the markings an RG had, but I'm bad with waterslides, and I'm sure I'd tear them.

As for the Z'Gok... stupid P-Bandai! I was hoping that it'd get a regular release. I want it, but not enough to pay a premium.

[Hikuro]

Agreed, older kits require love and work, newer say after 2010 don't need to much work just lil paint details here and there to amp it up.

I started my hguc rx 78-2 and it needed a lot of love. But looks good now!

[Kelsain]

Yep, I officially hate these little foil stickers...

Don't have a gold sharpie, so I guess I'll be going silver... I might follow up with an orange marker, if I can find one.

[Hikuro]

Yep, I officially hate these little foil stickers...

Don't have a gold sharpie, so I guess I'll be going silver... I might follow up with an orange marker, if I can find one.

Just my opinion when punting some of those areas, let them cure, maybe even gloss coat those areas of possible.

I would get to much contact parts rubbing on parts and paint would scrape off until I clear coated.

Which in tight small spots spray it on a q tip and rub in the area you want.

When I did my MG3.0 I did that as it would certainly be making contact.

[IXTL]

http://p-bandai.jp/item/item-1000098265/

Edited June 18, 2015 by IXTL

[mikeszekely]

http://p-bandai.jp/item/item-1000098265/

Bah. If Char's Zaku and regular Zaku II can both be main line releases, and AEUG Mk II and Titans Mk II can both be main line releases, I still say regular Z'Gok should be RG #19 or #20, not P-Bandai.

[renegadeleader1]

Well I did it! I finally got my HGUC Sniper II White Dingo courtesy of Gundam Planet! I can't wait for it to arrive!

HAPPY! HAPPY! JOY! JOY!

[SchizophrenicMC]

So it occurred to me that I've never owned an MG Strike kit. Anyone have any experience with the Ver. RM? I'm thinking about picking it up and shuffling it to the front of the backlog. (To go in between my PG and RG Strikes)

[chyll2]

So it occurred to me that I've never owned an MG Strike kit. Anyone have any experience with the Ver. RM? I'm thinking about picking it up and shuffling it to the front of the backlog. (To go in between my PG and RG Strikes)

Solid kit except for the side skirt that easily pops out. With proper balancing, it can stand on its own and if ever the joint gets loose, a thin layer of clear coat will do the trick

If you are open to China/Third Party kit, you can also look for Dragon Momoko Strike MG 1/100. There are two version, the Sword Strike and the Launcher Striker (each sold separately) so it will be unfortunate selection if you want the Aile Pack.

The kit is unique since it is Resin Conversion kit made to a snap fit model kit. It is not anime accurate since it is based on the EVOLVE Strike (the source used for PG Strike)