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David's guy is apparently better than Gundam Planet. I haven't heard jack from them. The G3 is still available on their site, but listed as "backordered" and "June" now.

I don't think I'll be preordering anything from them again...

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GGInfinite said if you ordered before 2/20 on the Pale Rider your order is being shipped, they had images of HUGE piles. I know I ordered before that date and NOTHING.

I guess the lesson is never preorder anything and hope that David's guy is always good?

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I guess the lesson is never preorder anything and hope that David's guy is always good?

I need to send them an email asking what gives cause they make you prepay on your order. and I think someone in my Gunpla group ordered from them and got his.

post-600-0-57380600-1431842159_thumb.jpg

In other news there was a local gunpla meet up amongst the clan. Couple of the guys on the right far back hunching over were fascinated by my candy sinanju. Even one of the shop staff came by and was looking it over probing me for tips.

Asian looking guy in the black cap on the right side is participating in the GBWC in California next week so I kinda helped him a bit on his kit, thus I got very little done on my Guntank.

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Any tips for loose joints on old kits? Just built this guy today but the elbows were fallng off already... Knees swing free when you pick it up too

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

One of the many uses of Future floor "polish" (actually an acrylic clear gloss topcoat) is thickening up posts and ball joints. It takes a lot of coats to get a significant thickness but that gives you fine control, and it is very tough when dry. Ideally you want to take the joint apart and coat the relevant area, but in a pinch you can flow it into joints that can't be disassembled, working them around as it dries to make sure they don't seize. The latter approach will produce a gummier, less precise result, but it's still better than a floppy joint.

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One of the many uses of Future floor "polish" (actually an acrylic clear gloss topcoat) is thickening up posts and ball joints. It takes a lot of coats to get a significant thickness but that gives you fine control, and it is very tough when dry. Ideally you want to take the joint apart and coat the relevant area, but in a pinch you can flow it into joints that can't be disassembled, working them around as it dries to make sure they don't seize. The latter approach will produce a gummier, less precise result, but it's still better than a floppy joint.

Thanks, nekko! I'll give that a shot!

Now I'm kinda worried that my other backlog kits of the same 'vintage' will have equally loose joints when I get around to building them...

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Thanks, nekko! I'll give that a shot!

Now I'm kinda worried that my other backlog kits of the same 'vintage' will have equally loose joints when I get around to building them...

Yeah you're gonna have the occasion of such. Older the kit the odder some of the joints feel. I just finished my guntank and it kinda feels floppy in areas

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Guest davidwhangchoi

I guess the lesson is never preorder anything and hope that David's guy is always good?

well i always ask if he can get it and confirming before putting money down. he's never let me down so far.

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so my next kit I wanna work on is finally my A3 Zeta. Problem is as I go looking through the plates, there's 3-5 of the same plates, and the pamphlet isn't exactly clear on which ones I use as they only list 1 plate per lettering. Any advice?

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Guest davidwhangchoi

Any tips for loose joints on old kits? Just built this guy today but the elbows were fallng off already... Knees swing free when you pick it up too

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

cool build mcfly!!! :)

so my next kit I wanna work on is finally my A3 Zeta. Problem is as I go looking through the plates, there's 3-5 of the same plates, and the pamphlet isn't exactly clear on which ones I use as they only list 1 plate per lettering. Any advice?

i think mike s. can help you there.

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I wish I could find my Zeta 3 extra page...

You should have two instructions, the same booklet that comes with the regular Zeta and an extra sheet. The extra sheet has the decal instructions, but if you look it also had pictures of the runners that have been duplicated, colored alightly different (even though its printed in black and white), and the Japanese will tell you which is white, pink, light gray, dark gray, etc. (Pro tip: if you can't read Japanese, use the Google Translate app for your smartphone or tablet. It has a mode that will let you take a picture and it will try to translate what's in the pic, and if that fails you can draw charcters with your finger.)

Once you figure out which runner is which, you'll see that different parts are crossed out on different runners. So, if the instructions call for part C5, and you have three Cs, look at where C5 is on the runner, and look at the the picture on the extra page. Find the C runner where that part isn't crossed out, and note the color. If it says white, then take it from the white runner and ignore the other ones.

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K I'll try google translate cause the picture isn't clear for me when they list 1 runner of each letter but not the colors. Rrobert184 wasn't very clear I think either as he kept saying you need a part from here and 3 parts from here and most the parts here and this one you just toss!

Why dear god WHY bandai thought this was a smart idea I dunno. But DOES make me wanna get an additional zeta to use left over parts for.

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K I'll try google translate cause the picture isn't clear for me when they list 1 runner of each letter but not the colors. Rrobert184 wasn't very clear I think either as he kept saying you need a part from here and 3 parts from here and most the parts here and this one you just toss!

Why dear god WHY bandai thought this was a smart idea I dunno. But DOES make me wanna get an additional zeta to use left over parts for.

OK, Hikuro. I couldn't write much this morning, but I'm home now, and I found the Z3 page. I've scanned the relevant information, and I went ahead and translated for you which is which. If MW resizes it and you can't read it, PM me and I'll email it to you.

post-187-0-82258400-1432150050_thumb.jpg

Now what you should have, when you lay out all the runners, are 2x A, 1x B, 1x C, 2x D, 3x E, 1x F, 2x G, 1x H, 3x I, and one each for short saber blades and long saber blades. The D and G runners are 2 identical ones, and you'd have those even in the regular RG Zeta. The ones that are repeated in different colors are just A, E, and I.

The A runners are easy to tell apart. The one with some parts molded in yellow is Light Gray, and the other is Dark Gray. For E and I, the instructions refer to the pinkish-purplish as "Red." Beyond that, you'll kind of have to judge for yourself, but look at where the runner letter is printed. If it looks lighter, that's Light Gray, if it's darker, that's the dark gray.

As I mentioned earlier, the parts you do not use are crossed out... actually sort of redded over. So, you look at the regular Zeta instructions. As an example, the very first step calls for you to attach H20 to B6 (or B9), then attach E10. And E is one of the duplicated runners on the Z3 sheet. So, we look at that, and we see that E10 is marked out on the Light Gray and Dark Gray runners, so the one that you'll use is the E10 from the Red runner.

If you need any other help with the instructions, just lemme know.

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Alright I think I get it. Tonight I'll go and snip the parts I don't need so in not constantly confused. My focus usually gets distorted when I got a lot to snip off runners.

Let's see what happens!

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I had the same problem with my Zeta 3, the most difficult part was on the legs, you could use the images here for reference

http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/carlos_santiago3/20150520_144839_zpsyjrokhb9.jpg

And here you can find a picture of the finished runners with the unused parts

http://www.gaijin-gunpla.com/2013/04/zeta-3-and-metal/

Edited by mog_kupo
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cool build mcfly!!! :)

i think mike s. can help you there.

Thanks, David! It's really dated but still mean looking, imo. Haven't futured the elbow polycaps yet though

I watched the gunpla tv coverage of the Shizuoka hobby show, and I'm really excited for the 2 or 3 Goufs that they showed as upcoming releases. The metallic hgbf tryon also looks pimpin! Lol

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Guest davidwhangchoi

On a separate note, got my G-3. Thanks again David!

just got back to NJ from traveling all week between RI and MA.

i just got my g-3 from my doorman as well! (though i prob have no time to build it anytime soon :ph34r:)

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just got back to NJ from traveling all week between RI and MA.

i just got my g-3 from my doorman as well! (though i prob have no time to build it anytime soon :ph34r:)

It'll be some time before I build mine. I'm bringing my zeta unit 3 to my meet up tonight so everything is backed up!

Need to remember to bring my camera get some shots in. Gonna be a long long day.

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What happened to the MG Gundam line? No more monthly releases

There are lots of MG models coming out, sadly they're 90% p bandai exclusive retooled model kits. Really the only NEW ones coming that are available this summer is Ricardo's wing gundam and meijins red warrior.

Everything else is exclusive.

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What happened to the MG Gundam line? No more monthly releases

Bandai seems hardcore back into HG, with the whole Revive thing. Guncannon and (I think) Gundam are already out, Freedom is next, and they already announced the AEUG Gundam Mk-II after that.

just got back to NJ from traveling all week between RI and MA.

i just got my g-3 from my doorman as well! (though i prob have no time to build it anytime soon :ph34r:)

You guys are lucky. My Gundam Planet order is still listed as "processing." <_<

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Guest davidwhangchoi

Bandai seems hardcore back into HG, with the whole Revive thing. Guncannon and (I think) Gundam are already out, Freedom is next, and they already announced the AEUG Gundam Mk-II after that.

You guys are lucky. My Gundam Planet order is still listed as "processing." <_<

mike if somehow they cancel yours, i'll send you mine's as i'm really busy and won't be able to get to it soon. shoot them a message and see what happens, keep me updated :)

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mike if somehow they cancel yours, i'll send you mine's as i'm really busy and won't be able to get to it soon. shoot them a message and see what happens, keep me updated :)

Thanks for the offer, buddy. I sent them a quick email. Honestly, I hope they can fulfill it soon; canceling seems like a hassle, since they charge a cancellation fee. Not to mention they charge your credit card when you order, so I've already paid off the balance and don't really want a credit on the card, and I rarely use that one. I'll keep you posted.

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Just came home from my meet up I'll post some pics tomorrow morning. I popped on GG Infinite cause a guy in our group was curious about them. Pretty much we all told him to avoid with a passion. I popped on there a little bit ago and I see this header "Pale Rider in stock" so I go look at the page, lists out of stock so the header is out of date. I look at my order still no changes. I look at my emails, still no email after a week! Sent them another email letting them know if I hear nothing about my order shipping out since it MADE the 2/20 cut off by Monday I'll be going and disputing the charges.

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Greetings!

If anyone has the manual for the RG Wing Zero and could send me a Hi Rez scan of the decal placement page (I think it's the back page), I'd really appreciate it. I bought RG style decals from Samual Decal for my PG Wing Zero and I need to see what goes where.

Thanks!

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