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Posted

I'm not worried about it, they're only cheap stands. I was going to buy some of the newer ones until reading this thread.

I would rather have the official yamato macross stands anyway, to bad they're out of print.

I might try those plastic risers some people use.

Plastic risers?

Posted

I just tried to order some but the postage price to high now to my country. Seems like they've upped the shipping cost since they're running low on stock. I never liked the 2.5 size which is all they have left.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I completely retract my suggestion to use plastic wrap if using the clear tipped stands.

This is what happened on my VF-19S when I tried to move it and noticed it was sticking to the stand.

Paint missing on the valk:

post-10222-0-61004600-1351543200_thumb.jpg

Paint stuck to the tip:

post-10222-0-95806700-1351543202_thumb.jpg

The chemicals in the clear tips seems to be seeping through the plastic wrap and reacting with the paint. Either that or somehow plastic wrap became sticky enough to tear paint off.

However, I have the black tipped stands also wrapped in plastic wrap and have some clear coated valks sitting on them with no visible reaction or adverse effects. I also had my VF-17S sitting on a clear tipped stand with plastic wrap over the tips but no signs of it eating off the flat clear coat on it.

I'm guessing one of two things:

  1. Chemicals inside the clear tips (they were washed thoroughly!) are seeping through the relatively porous plastic wrap material and affecting the yamato paints but not future clear coats or...
  2. Plastic wrap somehow has enough tack to pull off paint that Yamato uses but not enough to do the same to Future based clear coats.

I'm thinking the former is more likely than the latter.

Posted

cant you just insert these then? lol. so colorful!

48F57F153A0603F2E1008000AC193D36.JPG

Knowing me, I'd probably waste half a day rubbing down the erasers, just to get a wider surface area for the valks to make contact with.

Posted

Well, considering how much we fawn and drool over our Valks. . . . . .

The trickiest part with the cutting method would be getting a nice rounded tip to work with.

Posted

Well, considering how much we fawn and drool over our Valks. . . . . .

The trickiest part with the cutting method would be getting a nice rounded tip to work with.

I'm not sure what type of rubber is needed but rubber tip replacements are everywhere. We used to get them in different sizes when I worked in TV production for camera parts, stands, handles. You can find them in hardware stores, camera stores, kitchen and bath stores. I only have the black tipped stands so I've never thought of replacing them.

Posted

Same here. I only own the black rubber-tipped ones.

Kinda sucks that they just don't revert to those original tips.

If it wasn't for the issues with the clear ones, I'd recommend these stands to people in a heartbeat.

As long as the stand doesn't tip over, you can practically pull off any pose you can imagine.

Posted

I suppose I could stop by an Office Depot sometime and see if they have a pack of eraser heads.

I'm not home right now so I can't reference the stands. Are the silicone tips glued on or just fitted over the acrylic rods?

Posted

But...but...what if they "erase" the paint or color? Hello? They're ERASERs! Has Loony Toons taught us nothing!?

Posted

I really wish Carlos would just release some alternate tips. I have a tone of these stands, but can only use them in poses where the rubber never touches the paint. It really limits my display options.

Posted

I pulled the tips off one of my stands. They come off pretty easily since they are placed on the rods just like the eraser heads. I also put one of the tips on the end of a pencil and it was about the right size so the standard eraser heads should fit over the acrylic rods pretty well.

Posted

Ok, warning here, I cannot recommend erasers of any type at all. Granted, it will depend on the type, but I have had horrible things happen to things left in the vicinity of some kinds of erasers over time.

You're worried about the stands eating paint... I've had erasers dissolve plastic. I have a ruler with the imprint of a large rectangular eraser eaten into the surface as if by acid, because they were stored next to each other in my office supplies drawer. Others have eaten the coating off of colored pencils, melted rubber bands, and left sticky gooey messes where they touched other materials.

If you plan on using erasers, test them thoroughly, and do research. I don't think all erasers will do this, but many types of art erasers will have this effect. It's nasty, and will do horrible things to your valks if you use an eraser with the wrong material formula.

Posted

The problem here is that most 'soft' materials that have grip are soft because of chemical plasticizers, AKA chemicals that make the base plastic or vinyl or rubber or whatever softer. That softness makes these materials inherently unstable, meaning chemicals leech out and start to eat at the materials our valkyries are made of- otherwise known as 'paints' and 'plastics'. Obviously, the soft-slightly tacky material the clear tips are made of is particularly bad for this.

As for erasers, they're not all created equal. 'soft' erasers are obviously going to be more chemically unstable, and can and will eat through plastics. IDK about the rubber these pencil toppers are made of, but so far all we have are a lot of things that don't work- All we can really do is trial and error and see what would.

Posted

The ones I got are a polymer type eraser. I'm not sure how it will work out, but I will clear coat an old 1/72 macross plus toy and test it on that for a few weeks before I try it on something I actually care about.

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