Yamato Tomahawk sprue cut marks

[David Hingtgen]

Using a hair dryer on "high" is an alternate method to above, that is much safer/easier. In my experience it works very well on stress marks from fitting/bending/tight pieces, but not on sprue cuts. (worked VERY well on my MP TC's legs--anywhere there's a screw, the plastic gets stressed and turns white)

beatsing--to swap the chest pieces you have to completely disassemble the torso, including the pins. That means using a hammer and a punch. (the only pin you don't have to remove is the "master" one that connects the intakes to the forward fuselage, right around the head/neck area---that one is impossible to remove anyways)

PS---if you do try the lighter method, and the plastic smells like butane or asphalt, you've got cheap plastic, and probably a knockoff. Actually, just sanding will make enough heat that you can get a sense of the plastic.

[anime52k8]

Using a hair dryer on "high" is an alternate method to above, that is much safer/easier. In my experience it works very well on stress marks from fitting/bending/tight pieces, but not on sprue cuts. (worked VERY well on my MP TC's legs--anywhere there's a screw, the plastic gets stressed and turns white)

could you please explain this in more detail. I've got some nasty white marks on my YF-21 I'd like to get rid of.

[David Hingtgen]

Not much too it. Get a hair dryer, turn it on, and heat the plastic. You should see stress marks lessen.

[beatsing]

Sprue marks are an unfortunate part of life. Bandai has taken steps to make theirs easier to remove on some newer kits, but those are styrene. If your toy is made with ABS, that is even tougher to clean up. I have the 1/200 Nichimo Yamato Battleship. It is ALL ABS and a MAJOR pain to sand and clean up compared to styrene.

If you have any spare accessory sprue pieces, heat up a section with a lighter and smell it. Petroleum smelling is styrene and kinda pine smelling is ABS. I use the edge of a steady flame (the blue part) and put it near the whitened area. It causes the plastic to flow back together and clear up the blemish (if only acne was that easy) That method takes some practice, patience and being VERY CAREFUL.

Method two involves covering the blemishes with some "dirt" or oil marks (paint). I use this on transforming models since paint on them scratches off. Just my two cents. - MT

Hi Mechtech,

thanks for your suggestions. I'm not sure whether the tomahawk is made of abs or styrene. Perhaps I may try this technique with some practice.

My sentiments too about clearing up of blemishes

I was also concerned about using paint for the same reason as you have mentioned: that it scratches off. Now the Tomahawk doesn't transform, but I had planned on purchasing the Khaki defender and other destroids to mix and match the parts as these droids are modular. With use, the painted parts would like chip off. Also, I'm not sure that I can match up / touch up paint these parts. I've tried doing that in the past, but I found it looks better to just paint the whole part rather than just the damage. That would be a little more difficult for me as this is an already built model.

From the many replies, I think I'll keep my Tomahawk, although I may not be able to clear up the blemishes immediately. I'll try the different techniques suggested on some spare sprue trees I keep around first.

[beatsing]

Using a hair dryer on "high" is an alternate method to above, that is much safer/easier. In my experience it works very well on stress marks from fitting/bending/tight pieces, but not on sprue cuts. (worked VERY well on my MP TC's legs--anywhere there's a screw, the plastic gets stressed and turns white)

beatsing--to swap the chest pieces you have to completely disassemble the torso, including the pins. That means using a hammer and a punch. (the only pin you don't have to remove is the "master" one that connects the intakes to the forward fuselage, right around the head/neck area---that one is impossible to remove anyways)

PS---if you do try the lighter method, and the plastic smells like butane or asphalt, you've got cheap plastic, and probably a knockoff. Actually, just sanding will make enough heat that you can get a sense of the plastic.

Hi David,

Thanks for your suggestions. This method does indeed sound much easier. I'll try this on some sprue trees. I haven't tried it yet, but perhaps the heat from the dryer isn't enough to melt the plastic. I think that the lighter's flame melts the plastic to some degree, to remove the blemish/sprue cut.

Thanks for the instructions on TC's chest. With that knowledge, I'm more likely to pick up a TC, but I think I'll wait for the price to drop or if there's a US version, as I'm saving up for a defender and a black convoy.

I looked at some of the photos of the various versions of the Tomahawk, and noticed that the photos for the OD version don't show any sprue marks at the cannon, but do show slight cuts at the bottom of the calves, however, they are in green so it is not so obvious. I noticed that that photos for the sand colored /original Tomahawk, the cannons and other areas do show sprue cuts. However, in one of the photos, the cuts were partially covered by white lettering decals. If the methods suggested don't work out (or I can't reproduce the method) or I can't match up the paint, decals may be an alternative cover up.

[Robelwell202]

I may have said this before, and if I have, I'm sorry for repeating myself.

To be completely honest, I never really noticed the sprue-cut marks until I read this thread. I've waited 25 years for this particular toy, so I may be looking through rose-colored goggles, but they're really not that noticeable to me.

[beatsing]

The sprue marks aren't as noticeable on the lighter colored destroids and yamato usually does a decent job with the sprues by hiding them but I have noticed that on wonky surfaces the cuts are bad. The yf-21 has hideous sprue marks on the lower leg (right above the rear ankle cuff) but it's hidden by the paint job.

Hi eugimon,

thanks for your reply.

I looked at my collection again. I noticed two areas that consistently have sprue marks that are visible (but not obvious) on the valks: right above the elbow joints/bicep (on the VF1J it's almost the same color white), and on the tailfin back pack connector. I don't mind these as the backpack is not very visible and I usually pose the arms holding the gunpod so the bicep doesn't seem that bad. I don't have a YF21, but the legs on all the vf1's look completely smooth, not a trace of sprue.

About the destroids, you're right. I looked at some of the photos of the various versions of the Tomahawk, and noticed that the photos for the OD version don't show any sprue marks at the cannon, but do show slight cuts at the bottom of the calves, however, they are in green so it is not so obvious. I noticed that that photos for the sand colored /original Tomahawk, the cannons and other areas do show sprue cuts. However, in one of the photos, the cuts were partially covered by white lettering decals. If the methods suggested don't work out (or I can't reproduce the method) or I can't match up the paint, decals may be an alternative cover up.

[beatsing]

I may have said this before, and if I have, I'm sorry for repeating myself.

To be completely honest, I never really noticed the sprue-cut marks until I read this thread. I've waited 25 years for this particular toy, so I may be looking through rose-colored goggles, but they're really not that noticeable to me.

Hi Robelwell202,

thanks for sharing your opinion. At first gush, out of the box, I know I was looking through rose-colored goggles too. The nostalgia factor is through the charts. I do have toys that have sprue marks that I don't mind, like those on the valks' biceps and backpack, if the sprue cuts were colored over or smoothed out or in a hidden spot. I went and looked at my valks again and my Masterpieces, and they do have cuts, but the cuts were relatively smooth and colored over in the same color. In the case of Master megs, there are slight stubs that have been painted over, so I don't mind. These cuts will take some work. I think I'll keep it though, because the shipping is pricey. The methods suggested above may work, and if not, I may try some touch up paint and some decals to cover up the blemishes.

[Vi-RS]

Hi Vi-RS,

Do you remember where the sprue marks are on the V2? I inspected them earlier today, and mine don't show any noticeable marks. I'll look again if you can point them out. I have the VF1A Hikki v2, VF1J Hikki v2, same in 1/48. My buddy has the vf0 production in grey, and I don't notice the sprue cuts.

well you ask for it. Don't be too disappointed when you see these, but these doesn't bother me at all. It's a toy.

There are more, and I can take all day to point them out, but it doesn't make sense.

To me I don't care about these sprue marks because it's normal on toy, it's like the mole, scars and discoloration on human skins that make it "normal". Even a real life fightger jet has uneven panel surface and replaced panels.

[beatsing]

well you ask for it. Don't be too disappointed when you see these, but these doesn't bother me at all. It's a toy.

There are more, and I can take all day to point them out, but it doesn't make sense.

To me I don't care about these sprue marks because it's normal on toy, it's like the mole, scars and discoloration on human skins that make it "normal". Even a real life fightger jet has uneven panel surface and replaced panels.

Hi Vi-RS,

thanks for taking the time and the pics to point out the marks. Actually I agree with you in that the sprue marks on your pics are acceptable to me too. In fact, my valks share a few of the marks on the same spots. The marks on my fastpack, backpack and bicep are pretty much the same areas as yours. I'd like to mention that the marks on the body of your valks appear to be largely the same color as the body, and so these marks would be acceptable to me too. Most of them look fine, not too white, and mostly flat, no gouges. The mark on one of your jet packs looks a little more white and knotty, but as I don't pose mine that often with the fast packs I don't mind either. These photos are great, and I think that I might not notice these marks in person from a distance across the room.

I guess I mind the ones on my new Tomahawk a lot more because the cuts are rather bad on the cannons, which are the major characteristic of this mech, and the fact that they are bright white marks really contrasts with the green annoys me. Perhaps if my photos were as nice as yours, I think you'd agree with me that the marks on my Tomahawk are not the same color as the plastic and a bit rougher than those on the body of your valks. I'm a bit of an amateur with the camera, it took me quite a while to get those photos looking decent.

I think I'll try the methods the others have suggested, or possibly doing what I've noticed on some of Yamato's photos: cover it up with the decals.

[David Hingtgen]

I'll have to agree---the V2 toys that I have seen, are pretty good as toys go for sprue marks. There's few that are better.