Yamato Tomahawk sprue cut marks

[beatsing]

Hi,

I've just received my OD Tomahawk in the mail yesterday, and upon inspection, there are ugly sprue cut marks on the cannons, the back of the cannons, back of calves, next to the knees' swivel joint. I've collected 5 valks now, and haven't had any problems. As this is the OD version, the ugly white cut marks are very visible. Has anyone had this problem? I've read the reviews, and haven't seen this problem mentioned before. Did I get a faulty unit?

Please reply soon as I need to discuss this with the seller.

Thanks.

Edited January 17, 2010 by beatsing

[ff95gj]

Hi,

I've just received my OD Tomahawk in the mail yesterday, and upon inspection, there are ugly sprue cut marks on the cannons, the back of the cannons, back of calves, next to the knees' swivel joint. I've collected 5 valks now, and haven't had any problems. As this is the OD version, the ugly white cut marks are very visible. Has anyone had this problem? I've read the reviews, and haven't seen this problem mentioned before. Did I get a faulty unit?

Please reply soon as I need to discuss this with the seller.

Thanks.

Any pics?

I have 6 destroids and experienced no problems (except loose waist joints maybe).

[CF18]

Probably all units have them, just not very visible on the standard version.

Here you can see them on the cannon and back of calves in the first two pics.

http://gamu-toys.info/goukin/yamato/60dest...estroidtom.html

They are standard on most toys so you don't see complains. The 1:60 VF-1 hide them very well. For example on the hand held gun you can find the sprue cut under it and I believe they either got painted over with matching color, or the cut is so sharp they don't show the stress mark (which is where the white come from). On my Max VF-1J the marks under the wing-mounted missile box have more visible sprue mark under them.

Your best bet is try to paint the white spots with matching color.

Edited January 17, 2010 by CF18

[beatsing]

Any pics?

I have 6 destroids and experienced no problems (except loose waist joints maybe).

Hi,

here are the pics, I've circled the sprue cuts in red.

ff95gj, thanks, mine is loose at the waist too. As I've read that this is a common issue but not considered a problem, I can overlook the waist. The feet seem fluid (not tight, but not loose).

CF18, thanks for the pics and your comments. Good eye regarding the VF-1 gun pod. I'm looking at my VFs, and I don't notice any glaring cuts on the body of the valks.

I think I would overlook the valk's gunpod as it was also painted over on my VF, and that it is in a relatively small and hidden spot. But the Tomahawk's is rather large cuts. For example, the cuts on the trim above the Tomahawk's feet are hidden from view if looking from above, but the cannons are gouges, not small marks. I think you are right about the stress marks, perhaps the assember tore the part from the sprue rather than cut sharply. As this is the OD color the contrast makes it very noticeable.

I'm quite disappointed in the QC for this issue, as the VFs marks (if any) aren't very visible. I suppose I was expecting the same quality that the valks came in.

I considered the paint cover up job, like they suggest for beginner modellers to use Gundam markers on cheap kits, but I'd have to match up the color, and the gouges on the cannons would still not be smooth.

I'm considering asking for a replacement, but I'd like to know how common this problem is, as I wouldn't want to pay for the expensive shipping (it cost me more than half the cost of the product) only to receive another Tomahawk with stress marks.

Do you guys have any other suggestions?

Edited January 17, 2010 by beatsing

[beatsing]

Probably all units have them, just not very visible on the standard version.

Here you can see them on the cannon and back of calves in the first two pics.

http://gamu-toys.info/goukin/yamato/60dest...estroidtom.html

They are standard on most toys so you don't see complains. The 1:60 VF-1 hide them very well. For example on the hand held gun you can find the sprue cut under it and I believe they either got painted over with matching color, or the cut is so sharp they don't show the stress mark (which is where the white come from). On my Max VF-1J the marks under the wing-mounted missile box have more visible sprue mark under them.

Your best bet is try to paint the while spot with matching color.

CF18, I haven't used this forum for some time, so this might be displayed twice.

thanks for the pics and your comments. Good eye regarding the VF-1 gun pod. I'm looking at my VFs, and I don't notice any glaring cuts on the body of the valks.

I think I would overlook the valk's gunpod as it was also painted over on my VF, and that it is in a relatively small and hidden spot. But the Tomahawk's is rather large cuts. For example, the cuts on the trim above the Tomahawk's feet are hidden from view if looking from above, but the cannons are gouges, not small marks. I think you are right about the stress marks, perhaps the assember tore the part from the sprue rather than cut sharply. As this is the OD color the contrast makes it very noticeable.

I'm quite disappointed in the QC for this issue, as the VFs marks (if any) aren't very visible. I suppose I was expecting the same quality that the valks came in.

I considered the paint cover up job, like they suggest for beginner modellers to use Gundam markers on cheap kits, but I'd have to match up the color, and the gouges on the cannons would still not be smooth.

I'm considering asking for a replacement, but I'd like to know how common this problem is, as I wouldn't want to pay for the expensive shipping (it cost me more than half the cost of the product) only to receive another Tomahawk with stress marks.

Do you have any other suggestions?

[CF18]

I just remembered the fast packs on the VF-11B also have a fairly visible sprue mark on the left side.

(original image at http://gamu-toys.info/goukin/yamato/vf11b/02.html )

I am sure they are cut at the factory, not just ripped off the tree since it would look even worst. The cannon also has a round surface and make it harder to cut cleanly. If you have built some gundam models unpainted you would also notice that it is impossible to make clean cut on large pieces since the sprue point will be larger to allow better injection of melted plastic into the mold.

I would agree that at the price level they charge they could have done a better job with the mold to hide the sprue mark at hidden surface. But we are not going to get pro-modeler level of careful cutting, sanding and painting at that price. And with extra treatment they are still toys with screw holes all over them.

Even the weathered version have this problem. Just look at the calves part on the 3rd pic:

http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00122

[Vi-RS]

It is a raw plastic toy, not some painted model kits. All toy have the sprue mark and it will be much visible on dark color plastic. As far as I concern yamato has done a pretty good job hiding those mark, and if you understand how the mold works to cast the individual piece out then you will understand why the sprue is here but not there where both parts meet. Even a model kit will have the sprue at side due to the way part were molded.

[beatsing]

I just remembered the fast packs on the VF-11B also have a fairly visible sprue mark on the left side.

(original image at http://gamu-toys.info/goukin/yamato/vf11b/02.html )

I am sure they are cut at the factory, not just ripped off the tree since it would look even worst. The cannon also has a round surface and make it harder to cut cleanly. If you have built some gundam models unpainted you would also notice that it is impossible to make clean cut on large pieces since the sprue point will be larger to allow better injection of melted plastic into the mold.

I would agree that at the price level they charge they could have done a better job with the mold to hide the sprue mark at hidden surface. But we are not going to get pro-modeler level of careful cutting, sanding and painting at that price. And with extra treatment they are still toys with screw holes all over them.

Even the weathered version have this problem. Just look at the calves part on the 3rd pic:

http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00122

CF18, you have a very sharp eye for detail. The OD weathered does appear to have small marks on the calves, but it doesn't appear the other parts have the marks. Those marks also look like they may have been painted over, as they don't stand out as much as the white marks on my Tomahawk.

Thank you for your comments, and I understand that we cannot expect pro modeler results at this price point. Nevertheless, this is by no means a cheap toy and given that my previous purchases did not have this issue, I was expecting the same quality that Yamato has provided in their valks. I've just examined each of them, and I really don't notice any sprue cuts on the bodies of them. It seems that someone did a great job on my valks, but did a rush job on my Tomahawk.

This is making me hesitate to collect the Defender, which I was planning on the Khaki one to pose with this OD Tomahawk.

[beatsing]

It is a raw plastic toy, not some painted model kits. All toy have the sprue mark and it will be much visible on dark color plastic. As far as I concern yamato has done a pretty good job hiding those mark, and if you understand how the mold works to cast the individual piece out then you will understand why the sprue is here but not there where both parts meet. Even a model kit will have the sprue at side due to the way part were molded.

Hi Vi-RS,

thanks for your comment. I've edited the original post to include photos. The marks are circled in red.

I understand that it is a plastic toy. However, I'd like to mention that I have collected other valks and the sprue marks are not noticeable, if any. I have also been collect masterpiece takara toys, which also do not show obvious sprue marks. CF18's comment about the gunpod sprue mark on the v2 valks is accurate, but it is not a major part and appears to be in the same color as the gunpod, not glaring white. It is true that model kits have sprues on the parts due to the injection process, it is up to the assembler/modeler to carefully cut the pieces as to not leave those white marks.

As I mentioned to CF18, I don't expect pro modeler results, but rather the standard that Yamato has applied to their valks, which do not appear (in an obvious fashion) on the 1/48 or 1/60 v2 series. I just examined them, and the valks have smooth parts, no signs of harsh cuts. I can see them from across the room.

I appreciate your opinion Vi-RS. Does your Tomahawk have these cuts too?

[David Hingtgen]

I have also been collect masterpiece takara toys, which also do not show obvious sprue marks.

My Masterpiece Thundercracker would disagree.

[Robelwell202]

Okay, I just looked over my OD Tomahawk, and amazingly enough, these cut marks are there. I'd never noticed them before...

So, this leads to two questions...

First, are these tomahawks molded in plastic of the actual color, or are they painted?

Second, what would be the appropriate color paint to cover these cut marks with?

Personally, I would think a light sanding with a really low grit sandpaper, along with some light paint would do the trick.

[David Hingtgen]

Smoothing out sprue marks with your thumbnail is often the easiest and best method. Just burnish hard. (assuming the marks are decently smooth, and not obviously chewed/ragged)

[anime52k8]

As I mentioned to CF18, I don't expect pro modeler results, but rather the standard that Yamato has applied to their valks, which do not appear (in an obvious fashion) on the 1/48 or 1/60 v2 series. I just examined them, and the valks have smooth parts, no signs of harsh cuts. I can see them from across the room.

I appreciate your opinion Vi-RS. Does your Tomahawk have these cuts too?

the only reason you don't notice them on the other valks is because they're made from white/off-white plastic. every yamato (and most unpainted, injection molded toys for that matter) have them, but the white marks show up more on dark colored plastic. Most people either don't notice or don't care. personally I don't care.

[Vi-RS]

Hi Vi-RS,

thanks for your comment. I've edited the original post to include photos. The marks are circled in red.

I appreciate your opinion Vi-RS. Does your Tomahawk have these cuts too?

Yes both my defender and tomahawk have those marks, the weathering version is less obvious since they sprayed the paint on it to create the effect. If you look close enough there are lots of spryer marks on V2 as well especially max, millia and vt-1 which is pretty much self explanatory.

You just need some final touch up if you can't live with the sprue marks and there is no big deal. Even a

bandai PG kits have those sprue marks if you build it unpainted.

[eugimon]

all plastic discolors when you cut or stress it.

[BlueMax]

Hi Beatsing,

While I understand your frustration, it must be noted that this is not a professionally built model, but rather a mass produced toy. The professional modeller (or at least a serious model kit builder)have to go through quite a tedious process to smoothen out/ putty in the sprue marks, something that I'm sure is not realistic to expect on a mass produced toy.

All toys have them, just whether they are obvious or not, like what the other members have pointed out.

Here is a sugegstion if you must get rid of the white sprue marks, though please use caution if you were to try it: use a lighter (a small candle would be ok as well), in a back and forth motion, run the part through the flame so that it gets heated up, but not to the point of burning/ melting. You will see the white (stress) marks disappear within a couple of seconds.

But of course, use it at your own risk. I suggest you try on some unwanted dark piece of plastic, bend it so that you see the stress mark and try the above method.

[brenttoyou]

Based on my modeling experience, those cut marks are something to be expected on plastic toys. To hide those marks, you will need to use 800 or 1200 grip sandpapers to smooth them and use some polishing compound to hide the sand.

To have the least cut/stress/white marks, one needs to cut the sprue about 0.5 inches from the actually end using a model scissor and use art knife to cut the remaining. I don't think any toy factory always has the luxury of doing that.

Edited January 18, 2010 by brenttoyou

[beatsing]

My Masterpiece Thundercracker would disagree.

Hi David,

Gosh, I am beginning to think my toys have been good buys, as I don't notice any sprue cuts on my master megs or skywarp or us skywarp (I'm planning on a custom repaint). I don't have an optimus, but my buddies do, and I don't recall any obvious cuts on them. I am not saying they don't have any, merely that the cuts are in "hidden" spots.

Sorry to hear your Thundercracker has those cuts. This is a little off topic, but I was considering collecting Thundercracker as I like the metal flake color, but my buddy had one with reversed chest pieces. Did yours have this misassembly?

[beatsing]

Okay, I just looked over my OD Tomahawk, and amazingly enough, these cut marks are there. I'd never noticed them before...

So, this leads to two questions...

First, are these tomahawks molded in plastic of the actual color, or are they painted?

Second, what would be the appropriate color paint to cover these cut marks with?

Personally, I would think a light sanding with a really low grit sandpaper, along with some light paint would do the trick.

Hi Robelwell202,

I felt the same when CF18 mentioned the sprue cut on the gunpod for the valks. I went back to check for cut marks on my valks but I don't notice any. These cuts are rather obvious, I noticed the ones on the side of the long cannons first, maybe because those were the deepest and longest cuts.

In reply to your questions, I am by no means a pro, but have done some modelling, so here goes

first, the tomahawk appears to be molded in the actual color. I think this is made by plastic injection with coloring in the plastic. I like the color already as I intend to pose these out of the box rather than paint it. The other problem with model kits that are painted is that if you manipulate it too much, the paint may come off, and the pvc joints get loose. I like these Yamato kits, as the detail is similar to model kits, and the plastic injection color is quite good, and as these have ratcheting joints, I don't paint these and can pose these over and over unlike model kits which are comparably more fragile.

Second, that is a really good question. I don't know, has anyone tried? I test painted with my UN green on spare sprue trees, and even with a green gundam marker. Both paints are still off. However, it would probably still look better than the raw plastic white.

I think you're right about the sanding and painting for most of the cuts, as the cuts are above the plane of the part. But on the cannons, these are gouges, the photos don't show it, but the assembler appears to have tried to cut deeper and deeper with a knife, as there are other cut marks that go into the green plastic that are not visible on the photos.

[regult]

Based on my modeling experience, those cut marks are something to be expected on plastic toys. To hide those marks, you will need to use 800 or 1200 grip sandpapers to smooth them and use some polishing compound to hide the sand

Mind you, are those toys' surfaces smooth (as in polished) or are they textured (as in "matte")?

I would not sand and polish a textured surface as typically found on Yamato valks.

[beatsing]

Smoothing out sprue marks with your thumbnail is often the easiest and best method. Just burnish hard. (assuming the marks are decently smooth, and not obviously chewed/ragged)

Hi David,

thank you for your suggestion. I think this is the technique that is Hobby Japan magazine suggests for beginning modellers who only use the sprue cutter and gundam markers. First cut away from the sprue, then cut closer. Smooth out with your thumb, then apply gundam marker. I haven't actually tried this technique, as from the magazine, they never really match the paint to the plastic.

Your assumption would work out as you mentioned, if these were smooth. The only two that are relatively smooth are the two I don't mind: on the bottom edge of the shins/above the feet. These are usually "hidden" and visible on closer inspection, so I may leave them alone or I may try using your suggested technique.

[beatsing]

the only reason you don't notice them on the other valks is because they're made from white/off-white plastic. every yamato (and most unpainted, injection molded toys for that matter) have them, but the white marks show up more on dark colored plastic. Most people either don't notice or don't care. personally I don't care.

Hi anime52k8,

Good suggestion. Perhaps because the plastic cuts are the same color, they are less noticeable. I thought the same at first.

However, I went back to examine my valks and although I have valks that are white/off white/grey, I am deliberately looking for these marks. Perhaps my valks have been done by a pro, as I really don't notice any upon close inspection (not counting the accessories). The outside body of the valks are really smooth and the offwhite/grey valks should show the white marks more obviously. They don't show. Either the assembler has cut very sharply or sanded them smooth.

[beatsing]

Yes both my defender and tomahawk have those marks, the weathering version is less obvious since they sprayed the paint on it to create the effect. If you look close enough there are lots of spryer marks on V2 as well especially max, millia and vt-1 which is pretty much self explanatory.

You just need some final touch up if you can't live with the sprue marks and there is no big deal. Even a

bandai PG kits have those sprue marks if you build it unpainted.

Hi Vi-RS,

Thanks for your reply. Perhaps this is a common issue, if other's kits have the same.

Do you remember where the sprue marks are on the V2? I inspected them earlier today, and mine don't show any noticeable marks. I'll look again if you can point them out. I have the VF1A Hikki v2, VF1J Hikki v2, same in 1/48. My buddy has the vf0 production in grey, and I don't notice the sprue cuts.

I am leaning towards doing some "repair" work, sanding and painting touch up. If I had more time, I would putty and repaint, but I bought this variation for its color injection. It looked so good on the photos that I didn't have to paint it.

I like painting, and customizing Gundam and other scale kits, but for these kits I don't have to worry about chipping paint off with too much posing (unless I paint this kit). I do have a PG Rouge kit and it would have cut marks if you don't sand it down. It's not so bad, because presumably I would sand these parts down before painting and assembly. I haven't tried "repairing" a pre-built toy. Some of these cut marks on the tomahawk are hard to reach, like the knees. Also I don't cut so deep as the cuts done on the cannon.

[beatsing]

all plastic discolors when you cut or stress it.

Hi eugimon,

thanks for your reply. Yes, all plastic discolors, but if the cut is sharp, or some sanding is done, it is smooth. If the cut is sharp enough, the plastic is largely the same color, and is not very visible.

[David Hingtgen]

as I don't notice any sprue cuts on my master megs or skywarp or us skywarp (I'm planning on a custom repaint).

Sorry to hear your Thundercracker has those cuts. This is a little off topic, but I was considering collecting Thundercracker as I like the metal flake color, but my buddy had one with reversed chest pieces. Did yours have this misassembly?

I looked at US Skywarp in the store---it's nearly flawless. But most of the production batch of Thundercracker has CHUNKS missing on the tailbooms. Not just sprue marks, but very obvious ones.

As for reversed chest piece--yes, they ALL do. Nobody has yet to report one that didn't. I swapped mine around though.

[beatsing]

Hi Beatsing,

While I understand your frustration, it must be noted that this is not a professionally built model, but rather a mass produced toy. The professional modeller (or at least a serious model kit builder)have to go through quite a tedious process to smoothen out/ putty in the sprue marks, something that I'm sure is not realistic to expect on a mass produced toy.

All toys have them, just whether they are obvious or not, like what the other members have pointed out.

Here is a sugegstion if you must get rid of the white sprue marks, though please use caution if you were to try it: use a lighter (a small candle would be ok as well), in a back and forth motion, run the part through the flame so that it gets heated up, but not to the point of burning/ melting. You will see the white (stress) marks disappear within a couple of seconds.

But of course, use it at your own risk. I suggest you try on some unwanted dark piece of plastic, bend it so that you see the stress mark and try the above method.

Hi BlueMax,

thanks for your interesting suggestion.

you have a technique I have not tried before. I've only used heat to mod plastic parts to curve them or straighten them. I didn't know you could revert the color. I'll try this on spare sprue trees first.

Perhaps my expectation is high for Yamato, or it seems that my experience with them has been (relatively) good. All my valks look really smooth (other than the accessories). Other than the first VF1A v2's broken back pack, which I got an exchange for, all my valks don't have cut marks that look deep or still have "pegs" from a cut that has not been cut again to make it level. There is leftover spue "pegs" on the lower back of the Tomahawk that stick out about 1-2mm.

[beatsing]

Based on my modeling experience, those cut marks are something to be expected on plastic toys. To hide those marks, you will need to use 800 or 1200 grip sandpapers to smooth them and use some polishing compound to hide the sand.

To have the least cut/stress/white marks, one needs to cut the sprue about 0.5 inches from the actually end using a model scissor and use art knife to cut the remaining. I don't think any toy factory always has the luxury of doing that.

Hi Brenttoyou,

thanks for your suggestion. I'm starting to think that, from the number of replies, that this is common.

Good to hear from a fellow modeler, as I don't have a lot of experience with models. I have these tools, and have used them on my model kits before assembly phase. I haven't tried them on a prebuilt kit. I think the parts on the back would be a little difficult to do, as they are to the rear/undercarriage, above the hip. Also, the cannons may require some putty as the cuts are deep and go along the length of the cannons for about 2 inches (doesn't show up on the photo very well). It appears that the assembler did cut above the part 1-2mm for the parts on the back, but the cannons are deep. That annoys me as the cannons are the mech's major characteristic. Have you tried these on a prebuilt Yamato? How did you manage those small spaces? What did you do about the gouges?

[beatsing]

Mind you, are those toys' surfaces smooth (as in polished) or are they textured (as in "matte")?

I would not sand and polish a textured surface as typically found on Yamato valks.

Hi regult,

thanks for your suggestion.

The OD Tomahawk's surface is similar to the Valks. It would be difficult to match the sanded and polished surface to the texture of the valks. I've used sanding and polishing, but for a glossy smooth result.

[beatsing]

I looked at US Skywarp in the store---it's nearly flawless. But most of the production batch of Thundercracker has CHUNKS missing on the tailbooms. Not just sprue marks, but very obvious ones.

As for reversed chest piece--yes, they ALL do. Nobody has yet to report one that didn't. I swapped mine around though.

Hi David,

I like your description. CHUNKS. I think that's what is missing in the cannons (the photos don't show it very clearly). It looks as though the assember left a few mm of sprue for the other white cuts, but on the cannons, they repeatly cut into the cannons to eliminate the sprue, and so there are gouges.

This is offtopic but,

How did you swap the chest pieces? I'll tell my buddy. Though I have reservations about buying one if the sprue cuts are that visible. I don't remember noticeable the chunks on my buddy's TC though. And yes, the SW is nearly flawless. I like the Takara one because the deco is all black (like TC's all blue deco), but the SW US is really cartoon accurate, and the stripes and decepticon insignia are tampo printed on, like the valks. Perhaps I'll wait for a US TC release if sprue cuts are prevalent.

[VFTF1]

Small imperfections make women all the more unique and attractive. Treat your Destroid like a girl - put some make up on her if you absolutely must, or just learn to live with it and look at the bright side of what she offers

Pete

[eugimon]

Hi eugimon,

thanks for your reply. Yes, all plastic discolors, but if the cut is sharp, or some sanding is done, it is smooth. If the cut is sharp enough, the plastic is largely the same color, and is not very visible.

Well, you're not going to see a mass produced toy that has sanded parts. Short of using a water knife or someone switching out or sharpening the cutting surfaces every half dozen cuts, you'll never have a mechanical system sharp enough to minimize sprue marks in the way you're suggesting.

And just for kicks, I looked at my takara transformers, MP, binaltechs and alternity and they all have sprue marks. Several of the binaltechs have rather hideous gouges from where the sprue was obviously snapped off instead of cut off.

[beatsing]

Small imperfections make women all the more unique and attractive. Treat your Destroid like a girl - put some make up on her if you absolutely must, or just learn to live with it and look at the bright side of what she offers

Pete

Hi VFTF1,

you have made the most hilarious comment so far. LOL

[beatsing]

Well, you're not going to see a mass produced toy that has sanded parts. Short of using a water knife or someone switching out or sharpening the cutting surfaces every half dozen cuts, you'll never have a mechanical system sharp enough to minimize sprue marks in the way you're suggesting.

And just for kicks, I looked at my takara transformers, MP, binaltechs and alternity and they all have sprue marks. Several of the binaltechs have rather hideous gouges from where the sprue was obviously snapped off instead of cut off.

Hi eugimon,

Perhaps you may be right. I guess I assumed that Yamato's QC was really good based on my personal experience with my collection so far. As I've mentioned before, it's not that there aren't any cuts, in my collection, just that they were done in a fashion that doesn't appear unsightly.

Good to hear from another TF fan. I haven't collected that many transformers, mainly because of the low quality, but I have collected some MPs, and only one binaltech, because the detail and quality is so high (and price), I wouldn't consider them toys. As I am paying a premium, I would expect that the staff would treat these products better than those cheaply made products.

So far, other than the Tomahawk, I've seen acceptable cut marks on my other kits/toys, or more specifically like CF18 pointed out the cut mark under the valk's gunpod, it was done nicely that I don't mind it. It should be noted that the gunpod is black, and yet the cut mark leftover was either painted or cut nicely as it is still black.

Thank you for assuring me by taking the time to check your transformers for these sprue marks. I was really considering returning it to the seller, and would have to pay for the shipping (again). I'm going to try some of the suggestions here on some spare trees before deciding.

[eugimon]

Hi eugimon,

Perhaps you may be right. I guess I assumed that Yamato's QC was really good based on my personal experience with my collection so far. As I've mentioned before, it's not that there aren't any cuts, in my collection, just that they were done in a fashion that doesn't appear unsightly.

Good to hear from another TF fan. I haven't collected that many transformers, mainly because of the low quality, but I have collected some MPs, and only one binaltech, because the detail and quality is so high (and price), I wouldn't consider them toys. As I am paying a premium, I would expect that the staff would treat these products better than those cheaply made products.

So far, other than the Tomahawk, I've seen acceptable cut marks on my other kits/toys, or more specifically like CF18 pointed out the cut mark under the valk's gunpod, it was done nicely that I don't mind it. It should be noted that the gunpod is black, and yet the cut mark leftover was either painted or cut nicely as it is still black.

Thank you for assuring me by taking the time to check your transformers for these sprue marks. I was really considering returning it to the seller, and would have to pay for the shipping (again). I'm going to try some of the suggestions here on some spare trees before deciding.

The sprue marks aren't as noticeable on the lighter colored destroids and yamato usually does a decent job with the sprues by hiding them but I have noticed that on wonky surfaces the cuts are bad. The yf-21 has hideous sprue marks on the lower leg (right above the rear ankle cuff) but it's hidden by the paint job.

[MechTech]

Sprue marks are an unfortunate part of life. Bandai has taken steps to make theirs easier to remove on some newer kits, but those are styrene. If your toy is made with ABS, that is even tougher to clean up. I have the 1/200 Nichimo Yamato Battleship. It is ALL ABS and a MAJOR pain to sand and clean up compared to styrene.

If you have any spare accessory sprue pieces, heat up a section with a lighter and smell it. Petroleum smelling is styrene and kinda pine smelling is ABS. I use the edge of a steady flame (the blue part) and put it near the whitened area. It causes the plastic to flow back together and clear up the blemish (if only acne was that easy) That method takes some practice, patience and being VERY CAREFUL.

Method two involves covering the blemishes with some "dirt" or oil marks (paint). I use this on transforming models since paint on them scratches off. Just my two cents. - MT