Post pics of VF-1 broken shoulders here!

[m0n5t3r]

...completely smooth ones would be more likely to fall out.

nope, they don't. there's enough tension between the pin and the inner part of the hinge assembly(the one attached to the backplate). an easy way to find out if the pin has knurling or not is just to swing the arms/shoulders... if the pin DOES NOT rotate w/ the outer part of the hinge(the one connected to the arm/shoulder assembly) then they should be perfectly smooth... and vise versa.

Edited January 8, 2010 by m0n5t3r

[David Hingtgen]

If the knurling is in the middle part, not on the ends, that shouldn't be a problem. (that's how it should have been in the first place). IMHO it's been a design error since the beginning---a knurled pin shouldn't rotate, the plastic piece should rotate around it. That's how it is in just about every pinned joint in every Gundam, Transformer, and Valk toy ever. Except the V2 VF-1, where the parts are too stiff or something, and the knurled pin rotates inside the joint, chewing the ends apart from the outside.

[Chronocidal]

Well, bit the bullet and took apart my 1D and Hikaru 1J to check on them both out of curiosity. Wound up leaving the pins in on both, but I can tell the ones on the 1D are knurled to some extent, since the edges of the ridges are just barely visible at the edges of the hinge (no idea about the 1J). Now, this may not be a problem at all. There are no stress marks, the hinges rotate just fine, and nothing is cracked.

I think for the time being we shouldn't panic on these. It doesn't look so much like they went to entirely smooth pins as it looks like they reduced the size of the knurling. Really, removing the knurling entirely wouldn't work so well, because the pins would gradually work themselves out of the joint (at least, the hand-made ones I used to replace them do a lot )

What I do know is that there is a noticeable difference in these smaller knurled pins compared with the ones on my VT-1. The original knurling can be seen clearly from the end of the pin, so these are like version 1. The newer version 2 pins are smooth capped pins with smaller knurling that you can't see unless you push the pin out. So far, I don't see any stress from the version 2 pins.

For now, I'm going to try not to worry about the 1D pins, or any other ones without obvious knurling. They may break, they may not. I'll wait to bomb that bridge until I come to it.

Anyway, onto the pics. These worked out better, I forgot to tweak the ISO last time, and I maxed out the resolution.

These are my first two V.2s, Roy, and Hikaru 1A. All four shoulders were stressed, and two were cracked. I superglued them all, and replaced the pins, but you can still see the cracks a bit. The stressed hinges don't show up at all on camera after I worked on them.

Btw, I checked the pin rotation, and yes, even the smaller pins rotate with the outer shoulder piece, not the inner joint to the fuselage.

EDIT: Oh, one last thing. One thing I learned to do while taking these things apart is to loosen the main shoulder joint that is screwed to the back plate. If you unscrew it too much, the shoulder joints will slip around and not stay above the support tabs in battroid, but loosening it a little (maybe a quarter to half a turn) gives you more room to raise the shoulder joint over those nubs, and reduces the stress to that joint during transformation.

Edited January 8, 2010 by Chronocidal

[m0n5t3r]

Btw, I checked the pin rotation, and yes, even the smaller pins rotate with the outer shoulder piece, not the inner joint to the fuselage.

well, then those definitely still have knurled ends.

my VF-1S Max and VE-1 shoulder pins DO NOT rotate w/ the outer shoulder part, so i'm pretty sure that they have the new completely smooth pins.

[Chronocidal]

I wonder if there are actually 3 types of pins then.. early heavy knurling, completely smooth, and later light knurling..

Actually, considering how knurling is done, the difference between the two types may be somthing as simple as changing a single setting on the machine that does it.. maybe these smaller knurled pins are a stopgap that was introduced before the smooth pins went into production?

Maybe that's what Yamato meant when they told their quality control people to be more careful.. not necessarily during assembly, but during the knurling process for the pins. I almost can't imagine they'd actually use manual knurling for something mass produced like this.. but then again, it was put together in China..

Heh.. I wonder. If local Japanese customers get the stuff made in Japan, and the foreign-made stuff is used for export, that might explain why Yamato didn't hear of these breakages from within Japan.

Edited January 8, 2010 by Chronocidal

[David Hingtgen]

I've found (very interestingly) that for mine, the broken-off pieces don't fit back on properly--there's a very obvious gap. To me that says that the knurling actually stretches the plastic until it breaks.

[mr.chogokin]

well, then those definitely still have knurled ends.

my VF-1S Max and VE-1 shoulder pins DO NOT rotate w/ the outer shoulder part, so i'm pretty sure that they have the new completely smooth pins.

I'm glad to hear the VE-1 is okay thanks!

[Javabean]

I wonder if there are actually 3 types of pins then.. early heavy knurling, completely smooth, and later light knurling..

i believe light knurling is the latest, see my post under GBP-1 where I posted a picture of the pins I removed fm my 1J. It does show much lesser knurling than the 1s Focker.

[m0n5t3r]

oh, i also remember another member mentioned that his 1S Roy Low-Vis had knurled pins and that the stress marks were more obvious w/ the darker plastic. I don't have one of those so i can't make sure myself.

[BlueMax]

That also means that despite the light knurling, which in essence does not increase the diameter of the knurled pins as compared to the smooth pins, the VF-1J is still prone to cracks/ breakages. There are at least 2 examples, namely the G-man, and myself, who have bundled 1Js with osteoporisis.

The implication of this is that all other valks, with knurled or smooth pins, are all at risk, unless the plastic is re-inforced somehow.

[mr.chogokin]

oh, i also remember another member mentioned that his 1S Roy Low-Vis had knurled pins and that the stress marks were more obvious w/ the darker plastic. I don't have one of those so i can't make sure myself.

I saw thinner pins on my LV Roy. So let's hope this one is fine.

[brenttoyou]

My 1S Hikaru is holding fine for now, didn't pay attention to stress marks or pins but let's hope it can hold itself as i am too scared to transform it any more.

My M&M 1J seem to be fine, but I only transform them one time each so who knows.

1A Hikaru is being held hostage by my finance hope it turns out fine but I already expect the worst and ordered spare part from OD

1D and Max 1J are in transit and look like i might need to buy some insurance policy on them.

Bottom Line: No more yamato purchase unless they fix their screw-up and offer everybody spare parts. Graham, let those yamato guys know that they have lost a customer.

Edited January 8, 2010 by brenttoyou

[Desty_Nova]

My VF-1D has knurled pins. I Filed them smooth as a precaution. F*CK this is annoying.

[MACROSSF]

Here's my VF-1A. Has crack on both arms.

I think replacement shoulder parts should be offered free from Yamato!

Edited January 8, 2010 by MACROSSF

[Chronocidal]

Normally they are, most of us just don't live in their normal customer service area.

[BlueMax]

Normally they are, most of us just don't live in their normal customer service area.

.... which is the whole world except Japan (maybe HK as well).... literally.

[m0n5t3r]

Here's my VF-1A. Has crack on both arms.

I think these broken replacement shoulder parts should be offered free from Yamato!

fixed it for ya!

[MACROSSF]

fixed it for ya!

Stupid me, thanks for the correction.

[drifand]

Well, now that Yamato has the 1/60 kit on the way, maybe they will ship a load of the correct parts trees to their USA HQ and appease the majority of their affected overseas customers. Good luck to everyone else.

[shadow strikers]

does the first year anniversary VF-1S Roy Fokker and Hikaru have the same problem?

[SpaceCowboy]

So, if it is just cracked, do you think a little super glue on it would help strengthen it up a bit?

[vlenhoff]

I was about to order some v2 vf-1, but after reading this... naaah

Thanks Yamato for destroying my plans...

I only have the new 1/60 VF-1D, and I think Ill leave it in the box.

This is so irritating...

Edited January 8, 2010 by vlenhoff

[catcha]

does the first year anniversary VF-1S Roy Fokker and Hikaru have the same problem?

Both of my Anniversary Focker and Hikaru are perfectly fine, with smooth pins

I think they did change the shouder pins but the rest of the planes and the S&S parts still the same as the first batch V2s...

[ChristopherB]

Hello,

So far, I only have (2) 1/60 V2 valkyries, which are both the limited weathered versions. Previously, I naturally presumed they are brand new toys, but after reading the posts I learned that Yamato has been repackaging and repainting old valkyries that sold poorly the first time around. Very clever marketing on their part and completely sh!tty to sell broken toys at such high prices.

As such, I will have to inspect my (2) valkyries and post pictures if I find any cracks/breaks. Lord forbid.

After reading all of the posts/threads I have decided to cancel my pending 1/60 V2 orders, because they can break sitting in the box, sitting on the shelf, or suddenly break after being just fine for several months. When Yamato released the 1/60 V1, we didn't know about V2. Who knows if we will see V3 one day, especially after we created a thread with so many good suggestions.

For my part, I will wait for the Bandai 1/100 perfect transformation VF-1 and see how it does. In addition, I would rather own a "parts former" for a lower price than pay a high price for a perfect transformation valkyrie with broken shoulders.

Sincerely,

Christopher

[jenius]

Yep, I almost ordered the upcoming Focker weathering edition but I wouldn't even consider it now. I'm waiting for 1/48 V2.

[Valkyrie addict]

haha!! I'm very sorry for all of you but now everyone knows how I've felt since the beginning the V2 was released and my Roy 1S cracked both shoulder after being super duper careful with it effectively boycotting any further Yamato purchase

[DyNo]

[logos]

Here is from the VF-1A Hick that I just bought. Both Pins are Knurled but only the right shoulder is cracked.

[HoveringCheesecake]

CRRRRACK! And I can't display this guy in fighter mode because the cockpit finish bubbled to hell. Roy VF-1S, purchased when it was first released a while back. Never been transformed, so this happened IN THE BOX.

Edited January 8, 2010 by meh_cd

[takatoys]

I took a look at my 1/60 valks and all of them are ok (VF-1S Hikaru Strike, VF-1S low vis, Vf-1D, VT-1) no stress marks nor cracks on the shoulders.

But I don't play with them, I treat them as model kits so they are in a fixed pose all the time.

Just for curiosity, I pull out the pin of my low vis VF-1S and it has no knurling.

But my VT-1 had it, however no stress marks. First time I manipulated the arms.

Just in case I took both arms apart, sanded the knurling and problem solved.

Anyhow, Yamato should have made the whole shoulder piece out of metal. The plastic is too thin and too weak for transformation.

I know, the post says pics of broken shoulders, but just wanted to make a comparison of the smooth and knurled pin.

[David Hingtgen]

We're getting some good pics today---keep 'em coming!

[m0n5t3r]

Anyhow, Yamato should have made the whole shoulder piece out of metal. The plastic is too thin and too weak for transformation.

or at least make it as thick and sturdy as the shoulder hinges of the 1/48 VF-1s or 1/60 VF-0s. They should realize this (if they haven't yet) and do the same thing they did when they redesigned the crotch lock system for the v.2 VF-1s to match the 1/48's. but i don't think they will, seeing as using the smooth pins essentially solves the problem... it's a half-a$$ed solution but they'll definitely say that it a solution that works.

EDIT - correct me if i am wrong, but IIRC, the reason why Yamato decided to redesign the crotch system was because a lot of Japanese buyers were complaining about it??? maybe the G-man can impress upon Yamato that we have valid complaints and we're not just a bunch of whiners and complainers... hahahaha

Edited January 8, 2010 by m0n5t3r

[derex3592]

Just to report in--just checked my Virgin Road VF-1D, and my M & M VF-1J's and it is smooth pins all the way as far as I can tell.....THANK YOU! will check others later this weekend.

Edited January 9, 2010 by derex3592

[Macross73]

checked my vf-1s roy w/pak yep both shoulder are cracked

i will add pics later on after i get a chance to check

more valks

Why not have Yamato directly give Graham a whole bunch of

new shoulders to give out to every body here on this board.

Just show proof that you have a damaged shoulder on your

valk .

As of right now I need 2 shoulder and 2 pins

(gonna try filing these pins down)

I hope i dont need any more.

Edited January 10, 2010 by Macross73

[ron5864]

Both of my 1/60 Roy VF-1S and 1/60 CF VF-1J are clean with no cracks. The pins are the smooth kind.

I have the VF-1D as well but it is in fighter mode in the display so I can't tell if there are cracks at the pin joints. I will check that later on.

I am picking up the 1/60 armored VF-1J from the post office tomorrow so I will look into that one as well.