Question on VF-1 mold

[brenttoyou]

Just got my VF-1J M&M, and placed an order for DYRL kakizaki, TV Max VF-1A, and VF-1D. Just to be extra cautious is there anything I need to be careful about when transforming the forementioned valks? Does anyone experience any broken-parts with these molds?

One more question: the new 1/60 Roy VF-1S with flash light, will it be the new/improved mold or the one with shoulder problem?

any tips will be appreciated.

[Vi-RS]

Just got my VF-1J M&M, and placed an order for DYRL kakizaki, TV Max VF-1A, and VF-1D. Just to be extra cautious is there anything I need to be careful about when transforming the forementioned valks? Does anyone experience any broken-parts with these molds?

One more question: the new 1/60 Roy VF-1S with flash light, will it be the new/improved mold or the one with shoulder problem?

any tips will be appreciated.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=11308

[potatobbq]

Just got my VF-1J M&M, and placed an order for DYRL kakizaki, TV Max VF-1A, and VF-1D. Just to be extra cautious is there anything I need to be careful about when transforming the forementioned valks? Does anyone experience any broken-parts with these molds?

One more question: the new 1/60 Roy VF-1S with flash light, will it be the new/improved mold or the one with shoulder problem?

any tips will be appreciated.

On the VF-1J M&M, when you pull the chest plate down, it's very easy to scratch the two white tabs that stick up from the back. Mine came with a little piece of paper in Japanese that pretty much cautions you about that. Basically on the VF-1J M&Ms, the white paint is very soft and easy to scratch.

The new 1/60 Roy VF-1S is supposed to have the fixed post VF-1D v2.0 shoulders.