Advice on building transforming models

[kugar13]

Hey guys/gals,

I'm an indie filmmaker who's working on a project that requires transforming models for use with stop motion animation. Due to copyright laws I'm not allowed to use products belonging to another company, so I'm doing research on scratch building transforming mecha, specifically of the veritech line . Does anyone know of any good sites, online tutorials (youtube, etc) and such that may be useful?

Thanks for your help. Much appreciated!

[cobywan]

Hey guys/gals,

I'm an indie filmmaker who's working on a project that requires transforming models for use with stop motion animation. Due to copyright laws I'm not allowed to use products belonging to another company, so I'm doing research on scratch building transforming mecha, specifically of the veritech line . Does anyone know of any good sites, online tutorials (youtube, etc) and such that may be useful?

Thanks for your help. Much appreciated!

It's a dark art man. I think bargain basement CGI would be better and cheaper and faster in the end. And I'm a big fan of practical miniature work by the way. I hate telling anyone to go CG.

[Iphinome]

You chould try stripping all the identifying parts off a curent transforming toy and then replace them with your own Pull off the head wings wheels fenders whatever... till you're left with just the little hunges and sliding parts and build your new model on the base transformation system of the old. Try googling transformers kitbash.

[MechTech]

Like Iphinome said. Try looking at Hobby Link Japan for Kotobukiya, Fujimi, and Yellow Submarine joints. They make them in all different shapes/functions. That's what they were designed for - scratchbuilding. Hope that helps. - MT

[thegunny]

Maybe these might help

Frame architect

[Vespaeda]

Hey kugar13,

One of the most experienced, long-time builders/customizers on MW, "cobywan" ,answered above suggesting you go the CG route over scratchbuilding. If you have skill & access to these PC tools,definitely go right ahead.

Otherwise, if you have any ability for building simple plastic kits of planes/tanks,etc. or are hobby inclined, I'd suggest go ahead w/scratchbuilding w/one caveat. Steer clear of a heavy reliance on professional resin puttys, vinyls and expensive supplies used by dedicated SF hobbyists. The expense & quirks of these media is a labour of love/learning & cash investment.

My favorite media for quick and dirty scratch-up is styrofoam, cardboard and paper mache because its freely available as pkg'ng waste for "$"-painfree trial & error. A LOT lighter than the traditional materials as well(concerning posing, sag & transport).

As you stated an interest in variable fighters, yet req'mt to avoid copyright infringement, how about picking a real world jet plane that hasn't been VF'd by Kawamori-san[bloody unlikely though,eh!...]? Dissect it, first on paper, then move up to hacking a cheap plastic kit. You could minimize a transformation to something as simple as GERWALK. An F-4 PHANTOM or AV8B HARRIER might lend to be morphed into an easy VF because of their blocky/bulbous proportions. Visualize your transformation axiis and hinge points off of existing mecha designs or kits from the anime of your choice.

If hacking plastic kits requires more hobby knife/Dremel skill than you're capable of, use paper-card printed models of your subject jet[easily avail. for download off the Web] enlarged to desired size and mount in appropriate sections over a transforming armature.

Like the Kotobukiya frames in 'thegunny's link, flowershop wire lends to great, cheap armature bases that styrofoam, bamboo skewers/craft stiks & cardboard can be quickly attached to with Gorilla-type foaming glues or hot glue guns. Hinge/pivot points can be as simple as interlocked 'eye'loops twisted into end segments of this wire, with an additional length of wire threaded thru these to provide poseability.

Texture and lay-up strip styrene, discarded model kit "greeblies/sprue" and paper mache for definitive detail & shaping. Artist color markers and additional sections of contoured paper/card or white foam w/glue can make up for a lot gaps & asymmetries.

Most important: final appearances are ONLY limited by your finishing approaches, skills & imagination. The same principles of vinyl/epoxy resin and plaster modeling apply concerning finish: symmetrical filling, progressive texturing and sanding of all surfaces & joints. In this case, talcum powder, lite drywall spackle, & foam or sawdust, mixed into water based polyurethane like Polycrylic provide filler & leveler. They accept acrylic & enamel paints well. Another tremendous added bonus is that these materials are much less toxic to handle/breathe & dispose of, esp. for beginners!

Just my Canadian 2 pennies worth of experience. I wish you quick & satisfying results so you can concentrate on the actual film.

Peace.

Edited November 29, 2009 by Vespaeda

[kugar13]

I want to thank everyone for taking time to share your wisdom and experience with me. I'm amazed by your craft and the various means used to develop amazing creations! Sorry I hadn't responded sooner. I was under the assumption I'd receive an email update when someone responded to this post, but hadn't.

I'm looking forward to toying around with many of the ideas suggested here.

Thanks!

[RCB]

I agree with the bargain 3d animation. Unless you are going with the asthetics of stop motion, I recommend 3D animation. If your sequences are short, what I would advise you to do is get in contact with the graphics departments of colleges who offer 3D courses.

There are many students really needing to build portfolios and some really have the ability to help. You can get some decent stuff if you have the time. When I went to college I was all about doing any 3D animation that I could find, which would bolster my portfolio.

If you are bent on stop motion I would recommend on building larger models of particular movements and having separate models for your beginning and ending stages. Many times you would do the same thing in computer animation (or traditional animation) to increase efficiency.

[Temjin]

Something like this might work, may be too simple.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kpbs/37752021...57621787032856/

[Excillon]

An old MG Zeta Gundam kit. Just swap the heads with an AC or GM head and cut it to fit. Pick the Cplus, or Karaba Zeta's. Less recognizable than the main Zeta Gundam.

Edited December 5, 2009 by Excillon

[tundrayeti]

If you do decide to go with CG check out Blender. It's freeware and there are tons of stuff on the internet as far as tutorials and advice. Not that I have anything against kitbashing I love both. Just some info you might find helpful

[leading edge]

If you do decide to go with CG check out Blender. It's freeware and there are tons of stuff on the internet as far as tutorials and advice. Not that I have anything against kitbashing I love both. Just some info you might find helpful

If you need to make some thing transform a test model for a transformation is usually best if you have the transmode made first i.e. the plane or vehicle. Afterwards work the robot into the design with careful allowances for size and mass of both the plane/vehicle and the robot mode. As a kid I found the best way to transform and object was to use paper or cardstock and identify and area that looks or could be a hand or leg and work it into the design. The joints and frame can be transformed back and forth with a release of temporary lock which hold the untransormed parts in place. A peg could hold the part in place another idea i've tried is a small magnet attached as a peg male or female joint should hold tha part until your ready to transform. The transformed animated toys use a simultaneous gear system which allows for the parts to move almost all at once( Starscream and Megtron arm joints.)Other than that I would examine some toys possible some new transformers or Yamato Macross fighters.