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Official Bandai 1/60 Scale DX Toy Thread Ver.6

Duke Togo

By Duke Togo
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Graham Super Dimension Member

Graham

Posted
Posted

Still on the fence about getting the DX VF-25F with Tornado Pack.

The appearance of the Tornado Pack has reallly grown on me and I'm liking the look of it more and more, especially as it looks like it features lots more tampo printed markings compared to the relatively spartan Armored Pack.

However, 3 things are puttng me off a purchase: -

1) In fighter mode, it is going to be an absolute shelf-hog. I was comparing the size of the 1/250 VF-25F, VF-25F Super, VF-25F Armored & VF-25F Tornado and the Tornado has by far the biggest wing span of the three. I mean it's huge.

2) Worried about whether it will be able to stand by itself in battroid mode with the Tornado Pack fitted. My Armored DX's can no longer stand unaided without a prop holding them up at the back and even the Supers are having trouble, what with the crotch lock loseness. Possibly the Tornado's tail stinger can extend far enough to make a make-shift support in battroid mode?

3) Also some concern about whether the Tornado pack will attach securely. The Supers and Armored can be extremely frustrating with parts popping off. It's gotten to the stage, where I only now actually 'play' with bare VF-25 toys, due to frustration with the packs. Bandai could learn a thing or two from Yamato about pack attachment (OK, not counting the 1/60 YF-19's dodgy leg packs).

Glad to see in the new hobby mags that Bandai will be doing the space attachments for the DX Tornado Packs. Just hope they are not webshop exclusives.

Graham

anime52k8 Super Dimension Member

anime52k8

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I'm not sure why CF18 posted all the other scans but not this one...

fk017.jpg

I've got to say that the Tornado pack looks damn good without the massive back turret. likewise it works rather well with the armored version.

I'm really tempted to pick up the Tornado bundle, an armored Ozma and a super VF-25G and start mixing/matching armor parts.

Edited by anime52k8
areaseven Super Dimension Member

areaseven

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It's cool how each combination has its own name:

1. Tornado Wings + Armored Parts = Typhoon Messiah (upper left)

2. Tornado Wings + Super Parts = Lightning Messiah (upper right)

3. Tornado Parts + Super Parts + VF-27 Parts = Slash Messiah (lower left)

4. Armored Pack + Tornado Parts = Destroy Messiah (lower right)

Edited by areaseven
David Hingtgen Super Dimension Member

David Hingtgen

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Future is absolutely magic stuff---well-known to most all modelers. But darn useful to VF-27 owners too! It's the best, easiest clearcoat there is. It is ULTRA glossy, and can fairly easily be applied-streak-free and brush-stroke-free---by hand with a brush! I usually see it at Target or Wal-Mart.

I actually plan to mask and apply only to the painted areas of the nosecone at first---as it is VERY glossy, and if applied to the whole nosecone would make the nosecone notably more shiny than the rest of the valk. Future can be made more matte, but I've never gotten it to do so evenly/consistently. I'll experiment more with flattening future before my Grace arrives (got plent of time 'till then). If clearcoating the entire valk is necessary I'll probably go with a more "traditional" model paint.

Can someone who owns Brera's compare how shiny the plastic and paint is? I'm pretty sure it's shinier than most any Yamato valk. Or really, how smooth is it? Yamato valks often have a subtle nubbly texture to the plastic, while say most Bandai/Hasbro stuff tends to be glass-smooth. I'd like to know what level of shine I've got to match so I can experiment.

anime52k8 Super Dimension Member

anime52k8

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Can someone who owns Brera's compare how shiny the plastic and paint is? I'm pretty sure it's shinier than most any Yamato valk. Or really, how smooth is it? Yamato valks often have a subtle nubbly texture to the plastic, while say most Bandai/Hasbro stuff tends to be glass-smooth. I'd like to know what level of shine I've got to match so I can experiment.

The plastic has a very shiny surface. The bare plastic, painted plastic and painted metal are all pretty equally shiny; (best comparison I can think of off hand is a die-cast car body or something.) It's smooth to the point where it feels slippery even after cleaning it off every last bit of oil residue.

I ended up clear-coating the just the paint on the top of the nose. Brushing on strait future gave a shine that matched pretty well, maybe only a tiny bit too glossy.

klvru Cannon Fodder

klvru

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Hey guys i need help, im planning to buy the 1/60 DX armored ozma from amiami ( the link is below ), im not sure whether if this is 1/60 scale because its height written there is 23 cm but hlj's dimension is 44.5 x 36.0 x 15.0 cm.

will appreciate it if someone helps me :)

bouncing boy77 Destroid Armour Waxer

bouncing boy77

Posted
Posted
Hey guys i need help, im planning to buy the 1/60 DX armored ozma from amiami ( the link is below ), im not sure whether if this is 1/60 scale because its height written there is 23 cm but hlj's dimension is 44.5 x 36.0 x 15.0 cm.

will appreciate it if someone helps me :)

where's the link?

anyways, is this the one you're talking about: http://www.amiami.com/shop/?set=english&am.../e_display.html

if so, yup, its 1/60. i bought 1 about 2-3 weeks ago. hope this helps!

anubis20 New Edwards Test Pilot

anubis20

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It's cool how each combination has its own name:

1. Tornado Wings + Armored Parts = Typhoon Messiah (upper left)

2. Tornado Wings + Super Parts = Lightning Messiah (upper right)

3. Tornado Parts + Super Parts + VF-27 Parts = Slash Messiah (lower left)

4. Armored Pack + Tornado Parts = Destroy Messiah (lower right)

Lightning and Destroy FTW

David Hingtgen Super Dimension Member

David Hingtgen

Posted
Posted
I ended up clear-coating the just the paint on the top of the nose. Brushing on strait future gave a shine that matched pretty well, maybe only a tiny bit too glossy.

Thanks much for the info. Hmmn, "not QUITE so glossy" Future is possible. It's trying to actually make it satin or matte that causes issues. If straight Future is close, it may be possible to mix up a perfect match to the bare plastic.

PS--did you Future the nose paint before any damage occurred? Has it held up? With how poor the adhesion seems to be, I fear that the Future will just "hold the paint together, as all the paint comes off in one big perfect piece". Have you identified any other trouble spots? You seem to have identical goals/methods as I do for protecting a VF-27, so I'm interesting in anything you've discovered. I'd rather not clear-coat the whole thing, as that'd just be a lot of unnecessary work and with how tight the clearances on a transforming toy are, I'd like to avoid thickening anywhere--but excessive spot-apps would look bad.

Ignacio Ocamica Galactic Diva

Ignacio Ocamica

Posted
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Thanks much for the info. Hmmn, "not QUITE so glossy" Future is possible. It's trying to actually make it satin or matte that causes issues. If straight Future is close, it may be possible to mix up a perfect match to the bare plastic.

PS--did you Future the nose paint before any damage occurred? Has it held up? With how poor the adhesion seems to be, I fear that the Future will just "hold the paint together, as all the paint comes off in one big perfect piece". Have you identified any other trouble spots? You seem to have identical goals/methods as I do for protecting a VF-27, so I'm interesting in anything you've discovered. I'd rather not clear-coat the whole thing, as that'd just be a lot of unnecessary work and with how tight the clearances on a transforming toy are, I'd like to avoid thickening anywhere--but excessive spot-apps would look bad.

From my experience, you don't need to clearcoat the whole VF-27. Only the lavender detail from the nosecone to prevent scratches when transforming it. All the markings adhere just fine to the plane, I have not suffered any issues after numerous transformations.

The really important step to avoid touching the nosecone with the chest is to keep the nosecone folded but also SLIDED down when you transform it.

I had to touch up the nosecone with a mix of white, blue and red paints to match the lavender because I transformed it wrong the first time. After that I used Glo-cot (the argentine version of Future, done by Johnson&Son) and it's holding up really well. The Glo-cot is shinier but it's hardly noticeable.

Do you still have the same address you pm'd me last year? Cause I finnally found 1/72 Alto's decals so I'm gonna mail them to you.

David Hingtgen Super Dimension Member

David Hingtgen

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Since I don't have a VF-27 yet, I still don't know exactly what people mean when they describe how to avoid scratching the nose cone. Could someone take pics of those areas and point out what parts should be where, to get that extra bit of clearance between parts? Some people say it's the nose, some say the chest, some say the neckpiece.

As for Alto's decals--I did get another replacement decal for the one part I really needed, hopefully I won't need a THIRD one! I'll let you know if I do, thanks so much for remembering though.

anime52k8 Super Dimension Member

anime52k8

Posted
Posted
Thanks much for the info. Hmmn, "not QUITE so glossy" Future is possible. It's trying to actually make it satin or matte that causes issues. If straight Future is close, it may be possible to mix up a perfect match to the bare plastic.

PS--did you Future the nose paint before any damage occurred? Has it held up? With how poor the adhesion seems to be, I fear that the Future will just "hold the paint together, as all the paint comes off in one big perfect piece". Have you identified any other trouble spots? You seem to have identical goals/methods as I do for protecting a VF-27, so I'm interesting in anything you've discovered. I'd rather not clear-coat the whole thing, as that'd just be a lot of unnecessary work and with how tight the clearances on a transforming toy are, I'd like to avoid thickening anywhere--but excessive spot-apps would look bad.

I had to do a little touch up not on the nose it self but the painted area right behind it (in front of the cockpit). after that I clear-coated the entire painted part and it's held up well, I've had the chest drag across the nose a couple times with no damage.

other than the nose, the swing bars and the shoulder armor may be worth coating (not because of poor paint adhesion but because they are the most rub pron areas.)

I'll try to take pictures tonight of the nose cone and chest area.

I think you could get away with just clear coating the painted areas.

Graham Super Dimension Member

Graham

Posted
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Tornado DX is out in Hong Kong.

I broke down and picked up one yesterday in the Sino Center branch of Animate for HK$1,380. More expensive than I expected to be honest. I imagine other shops will have it cheaper. It was an impulse buy and I couldn't be bothered to shop around.

Haven't had time to take it out of the box yet and won't have time until Sunday :(

Talking of the box, it's exactly the same hight and width as the VF-27 box, but about 2 or 2 1/2 times deeper due to the Tornado packs.

Anyway, it looks cool. Lots of printed markings.

Graham

hutch Bridge Bunny

hutch

Posted
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That does look nice enough to buy. Didn't think I'd be saying that. Coupled with the previous 'mix and match' pics this may have to happen.

It looks like they either had this in stock recently at Ami Ami for 12,450.

Edited by hutch
m0n5t3r New Edwards Test Pilot

m0n5t3r

Posted
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any reviews? eager to see if the valk is white or has that light blue tint.

EDIT - still can't find any reviews or even out-of-the-box pics... but based on the color of the wing boosters in this pic, the 25F should have a matching white color.

blog100327b.jpg

Edited by m0n5t3r
David Hingtgen Super Dimension Member

David Hingtgen

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It seems that the Tornado version is not only pure white, but has much darker joints and intake covers than the first version. IMHO it has the best coloring so far.

Supersylph Cannon Fodder

Supersylph

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It seems that the Tornado version is not only pure white, but has much darker joints and intake covers than the first version. IMHO it has the best coloring so far.

Just got mine, can definitely confirm it is white. It is $11XX in Sino Centre upper floors if any HK locals are curious, but I paid a bit more for a japanese one (wanted complete set of the posters).

From what I can see, the joints are definitely darker than previous one (a dark gunmetal colour). Intakes are indeed darker as well.

Packs stay on nice and solid in fighter mode, and the wings boosters don't seem to be in any danger of scratching the wings if handled with care (i've taken them off at least 3 times)

Sorry can't give a better review as I am not too keen on transforming into any other mode. Want to keep a scratch free bird (learned my lesson on the first one lol). Am sure some of the veterans will do a much better job than I can anyway.

Here's some pics

post-6311-1269684307_thumb.jpg

post-6311-1269684318_thumb.jpg

Edited by Supersylph
ikhii Sharon Apple Concert Attendee

ikhii

Posted
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Just got mine, can definitely confirm it is white. It is $11XX in Sino Centre upper floors if any HK locals are curious, but I paid a bit more for a japanese one (wanted complete set of the posters).

From what I can see, the joints are definitely darker than previous one (a dark gunmetal colour). Intakes are indeed darker as well.

I do think the design of the tornado pack looks awesome on the valk. I may keep it in fighter mode only... side by side with my Lucifer and it's poster. Thanks for the pics. More are welcome

Hope to get mine soon. ;)

Edited by ikhii
Supersylph Cannon Fodder

Supersylph

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Posted (edited)
I do think the design of the tornado pack looks awesome on the valk. I may keep it in fighter mode only... side by side with my Lucifer and it's poster. Thanks for the pics. More are welcome

Hope to get mine soon. ;)

Just one more before I call it a day that might be of interest...the gunpod is a nicer colour IMHO. It's a darker bluish grey, with the barrel being a nice gunmetal colour as well. Too lazy to dig out the old knife to see if that's been recoloured as well. Also the hands you get are dark grey now instead of the light grey, matching the joints.

Pics of the gun below.

post-6311-1269685378_thumb.jpg

Edited by Supersylph
Supersylph Cannon Fodder

Supersylph

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Too beautiful~~! Any floppy or loose parts?

Seems solid so far! Joints on the beam canons are tight and will hold their pose, and the boosters on the wings lock at 90 degree intervals.

Again, since mine will stay in plane mode for the foreseeable future, not sure if any joints on the VF-25 itself are too loose or too tight in problem areas reported in the past (i.e shoulders and crotch joint).

Supersylph Cannon Fodder

Supersylph

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I highly doubt that Bandai will, but is the sculpt of the VF-25F improved in anyway?

As far as I can tell, the sculpt is exactly the same and the VF-25F is just a recolour.

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