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Posted (edited)

Any word on the VF-1D have smooth or knurled pins ?

Also since this hasn't happened to any of mine yet, if it cracks or breaks, is it impossible to have the arm stay on even if its loose ? Or is it just that it will come off if you handle it or transform it ?

So if it happens and i want to display it in battroid mode, will the arm still stay on if i don't touch it ?

Edited by thankheaven
Posted

The 1D was released in circa Mar 2009, I think by that time the pins are still knurled, but the factory had already been alerted about breakages on previous releases (So what?! they still broke anyway :rolleyes: ).

Posted
My VF-1D does not have knurled pins.

It has smooth ones.

According to the G-man dated 4th May, and Max 1S wsa about 1-2 months after the 1D.

OK, got a reply back from Yamato regarding the running changes to the 1/60 V2 shoulders starting from the DYRL Max VF-1S type and the only thing that has been changed is that the knurling has been removed from the ends of the shoulder pins.

I was hoping as I'd discussed with Yamato and the Chinese factory owner a few months ago, that the pin diameter would be made smaller, thus allowing the plastic around the pin to be made thicker.

Hopefully, removal of the knurling will lessen pressure on the plastic and eliminate the cracking issue, but I guess we'll just have to wait and see.

Honestly, I was hoping for more, but hopefully Yamato and the factory have done their homework and this change is all that is required.

Graham

Of course, it might be possible that some of the 1Ds in the later batch of production had received the knurl-free treatment ahead, in which case, I would congratulate you for having such a fixed copy. However, it might be also possible that the knurling is hidden from view, so maybe you might want to just take a closer look to ascertain.

Posted

Just checked my VT-1 better and it does have knurled pins, but no stress marks or damage yet.

I noticed that the pins do move along with the shoulders moving out so it doesn't look like it scratches the plastic.

The way i understand for those that have demaged shoulders is that the pins remain static while you move the shoulder/arm out so that it "eats" into the plastic everytime and eventually it breaks.

So if it moves along with the shoulder, this is better right ?

Posted
Just checked my VT-1 better and it does have knurled pins, but no stress marks or damage yet.

I noticed that the pins do move along with the shoulders moving out so it doesn't look like it scratches the plastic.

The way i understand for those that have demaged shoulders is that the pins remain static while you move the shoulder/arm out so that it "eats" into the plastic everytime and eventually it breaks.

So if it moves along with the shoulder, this is better right ?

I was confused when people was talking about swivel pin or static pin.

Since the knurled part is at the end and bites the shoulder's hinge, the pin should rotates in the same direction with shoulder when the shoulder is rotating so it appears "static" with the shoulder when shoulder swivel, and in fact it's rotating.

On the smooth pin, the pin shall not move and remain static when shoulder hinge rotates since it doesn't bite the plastic hinge on shoulder hinge, but it really depending on the variation of diameter on pin.

Please let me know if I get this all wrong?

post-611-1263584445_thumb.jpg

Posted
Just checked my VT-1 better and it does have knurled pins, but no stress marks or damage yet.

I noticed that the pins do move along with the shoulders moving out so it doesn't look like it scratches the plastic.

The way i understand for those that have demaged shoulders is that the pins remain static while you move the shoulder/arm out so that it "eats" into the plastic everytime and eventually it breaks.

So if it moves along with the shoulder, this is better right ?

Not really when you consider that many with the knurled pins have broken straight out of the box prior to being transformed.

Posted
Just checked my VT-1 better and it does have knurled pins, but no stress marks or damage yet.

I noticed that the pins do move along with the shoulders moving out so it doesn't look like it scratches the plastic.

The way i understand for those that have demaged shoulders is that the pins remain static while you move the shoulder/arm out so that it "eats" into the plastic everytime and eventually it breaks.

So if it moves along with the shoulder, this is better right ?

no, what's happening is the ridges are pressing into the plastic. by doing that it's putting excess stress on the part which is made from thin enough pieces of plastic that eventually it will crack/break.

Posted (edited)

Both my VT-1 and VF-1D turned out to have knurled pins. The VF-1D may not look like it from the outside but once you push the pin out it it does have a knurled side though alittle smaller. So i ended up with filing the knurled ends completely smooth and a little thinner so that i know for sure they won't scratch anything. This made the hinges alittle more loose but nothing that hurts posability or transformation and atleast now it works 100% without fear of breaking.

An easy fix, but it should not have been needed in the first place.

Edited by thankheaven
Posted

I have loosen the arm shoulder screws, which holds the arm ball joint, by a 1/4 turn. This lessen the stress on the pins when rotating the arms.

Posted

This thread needs more pictures of the VF-1J dresed with the GBP-1S please!!!!!

Can't wait to pick mine up at the post office this monday :lol:

Posted
Both my VT-1 and VF-1D turned out to have knurled pins. The VF-1D may not look like it from the outside but once you push the pin out it it does have a knurled side though alittle smaller. So i ended up with filing the knurled ends completely smooth and a little thinner so that i know for sure they won't scratch anything. This made the hinges alittle more loose but nothing that hurts posability or transformation and atleast now it works 100% without fear of breaking.

An easy fix, but it should not have been needed in the first place.

What exactly are you guys using to file the pins down with, AND how are you going about it??? That is a VERY small part. I'm going to have to attempt this at some point in the near future.

Posted
What exactly are you guys using to file the pins down with, AND how are you going about it??? That is a VERY small part. I'm going to have to attempt this at some point in the near future.

I hold it with a small pliar and use a small file at a slight angle to smooth it out and make it alittle thinner. Then i turn the pin slightly and go at it again until its completely smooth all around.

Posted
I hold it with a small pliar and use a small file at a slight angle to smooth it out and make it alittle thinner. Then i turn the pin slightly and go at it again until its completely smooth all around.

i used to file it when i first did this preemptive mod for the pins, but i realized that after some time the filed part of the pin becomes prone to corrosion... so what i do now is just to flatten the knurled part w/ some jawless pliers since the metal is pretty soft. just flatten it enough until it doesn't turn w/ the outer part of the hinge anymore. ;)

on topic... still waiting to hear news about a regular release standalone GBP armor... :unsure:

Posted
This thread needs more pictures of the VF-1J dresed with the GBP-1S please!!!!!

Can't wait to pick mine up at the post office this monday :lol:

Evolution?:

post-322-1263804466_thumb.jpg

Posted
i used to file it when i first did this preemptive mod for the pins, but i realized that after some time the filed part of the pin becomes prone to corrosion... so what i do now is just to flatten the knurled part w/ some jawless pliers since the metal is pretty soft. just flatten it enough until it doesn't turn w/ the outer part of the hinge anymore. ;)

on topic... still waiting to hear news about a regular release standalone GBP armor... :unsure:

How bad is the corrosion and did it happen fairly quick ?

I have already filed down the pins on two of my VF-1's that have knurled ones but i don't want anything to get damaged because the pins corrode.

Posted
I like to see the evolution of the toy from v1 1/60 to 1/48 to v2 1/60

I think one was done a few pages back... and failing that I'll probably have one on my site... but probably not for like another month. :(

Posted

Evolution of the Armor/ GBP Packs?

No matter what, we are still missing the (ret-conned) proto-GBP/ Armor: The Reactive Armor from macross Zero!

Yamato, where is our 1/60 macross Reactive Armor?!?!

Posted
Evolution of the Armor/ GBP Packs?

No matter what, we are still missing the (ret-conned) proto-GBP/ Armor: The Reactive Armor from macross Zero!

Yamato, where is our 1/60 macross Reactive Armor?!?!

Don't forget the vf-11 gbp.

Posted
Evolution?:

post-322-1263804466_thumb.jpg

There's probably no way to say that the original is FAR better than the Frontier version without sounding like an ol' fuddy-duddy right?

I would say to the new fans that the MF design is cluttered and amateur by comparison - and they would tell me the original is dated and totally 80's I suppose . . .

Posted
I would say to the new fans that the MF design is cluttered and amateur by comparison - and they would tell me the original is dated and totally 80's I suppose . . .

I would say they're both quite accurate statements :lol:

Posted

The original designs were blockier, but in that way, sturdier. The VF-25 Armored, while looking quite loaded, also looked like it was held together by pins and lots of tiny hinges.

Posted

Thanks for all of the pictures everyone.

Can someone please post some pics of this guy without the chest and crotch pieces attached, but the rest of the armor on? Thanks.

Posted
Thanks for all of the pictures everyone.

Can someone please post some pics of this guy without the chest and crotch pieces attached, but the rest of the armor on? Thanks.

It's been posted weeks ago, see post#345.

2mzff9j.jpg

Posted

i LOVE this toy!!! Been waiting for this since the Hikaru 1J is my favorite valk, and this GBP makes it look so sexy... Love the flush fit and tampo printing! my GBP shelf is now pretty complete!!

2010-1-24003.jpg

Posted
There's probably no way to say that the original is FAR better than the Frontier version without sounding like an ol' fuddy-duddy right?

I would say to the new fans that the MF design is cluttered and amateur by comparison - and they would tell me the original is dated and totally 80's I suppose . . .

I would say the problem is in the toy, but in the mech design.

The VF-25 armor has captured the armored essence pretty well IMHO.

Posted
There's probably no way to say that the original is FAR better than the Frontier version without sounding like an ol' fuddy-duddy right?

I would say to the new fans that the MF design is cluttered and amateur by comparison - and they would tell me the original is dated and totally 80's I suppose . . .

I've always loved the GBP. It was one of my 1/55 holy grail.

But as far as being biased to 80's design, I've always hated the Stampede valk and I think that the Frontier version (which is highly stylized after the Stampede) is a lot more elegant. I don't think it has to do with old school preference but I think that the GBP, Thunderhammer and the Messiah armor are all designed pretty well. But Bandai 1/60 representation of the Messiah doesn't capture that at all.

The 1/60 version 2 GBP is the best of all GBPs though... hands down! Gotta love that they got it right. I was hoping that the 1/48 version would be the one.

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