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Official Yamato 1/60 Scale GBP


ff95gj

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thanks for the pictures, it's a shame that the VF-1J is same old crotch system.

What's the difference between th eold and new crotch system? I only have the old one and I was able to break the plastic that holds the tab.

Pictures will be quite appreciated! TIA and a happy new year to y'all

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What's the difference between th eold and new crotch system? I only have the old one and I was able to break the plastic that holds the tab.

Pictures will be quite appreciated! TIA and a happy new year to y'all

Pictures from jenuis:

LV-VF-1S-4.jpg

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What's the difference between th eold and new crotch system? I only have the old one and I was able to break the plastic that holds the tab.

Pictures will be quite appreciated! TIA and a happy new year to y'all

the new one makes it easier for that part of the transformation... just slot in the metal swingbar part and close the cover and vise versa. whereas w/ the old one, you need to kinda force it in or out and in the process scrape the paint off of the swingbar some. doesn't really affect the toy/transformation, just a minor annoyance to some.

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EDIT - oh, there you go... more pics up top! :lol:

Edited by m0n5t3r
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I think the old crotch system would sometimes open the hatch a bit? I had some of that case on my 1/60 VF-1S Max though I managed to prevent it from happening by having the very top corners of the legs lean on those tiny tabs underneath the fuselage so the hatch doesn't open. Not a fuss if you're going Gerwalk or Fighter mode at all.

Nonetheless the GBP is looking good. I think I should get one.

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gotta hand it to Yamato though... it probably cost them less to put on some gray paint and pack the VF-1Js w/ the GBP-1S than make a new box and add that penlight thingy, like what they did for the Focker and Hik VF-1Ss w/ SSP... and they're probably gonna be able to dispose more of these (1J) than the 1Ss. :rolleyes:

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Does anyone have a shot of the front of the box? I'm kinda confused as to if this is supposed to be the TV version or the DYRL version. Because it is blue I'm guessing DYRL.

In the show SDF Macross the armor is painted in an almost dark grayish color that matches the grey visor of this release. In DYRL the armor is the dark blue color, but the visor is also a dark blue color. Does the box have DYRL written on it?

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Does anyone have a shot of the front of the box? I'm kinda confused as to if this is supposed to be the TV version or the DYRL version. Because it is blue I'm guessing DYRL.

In the show SDF Macross the armor is painted in an almost dark grayish color that matches the grey visor of this release. In DYRL the armor is the dark blue color, but the visor is also a dark blue color. Does the box have DYRL written on it?

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I assume the box didnt say anything about dyrl.

The color on the armor is more like deep blue for this toy which is more like dyrl.

TV color fast packs and armors are more like green grayish color, while dyrl is more like deep green bluish color.

However, to many members out there it's a disappointment that it comes with bubble hands.

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10096195p.jpg

I assume the box didnt say anything about dyrl.

The color on the armor is more like deep blue for this toy which is more like dyrl.

TV color fast packs and armors are more like green grayish color, while dyrl is more like deep green bluish color.

However, to many members out there it's a disappointment that it comes with bubble hands.

I guess my problem with it is, they should have put a blue visor on it then just label it DYRL.

It just kinda seems like its between the two as it is. Since I already have the 1/48 version of this, I think I might just buy

the VF-1J that still has the white visor and buy the missile launching version armor so they look alike.

Edited by Loop
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10096195p.jpg

However, to many members out there it's a disappointment that it comes with bubble hands.

Personally, the bubble hands are disappointed because they simply don't look good at all. Not because I perfer DYRL better than TV style.

Yamato should either re-design them(better looking bubble hands) or pack extra DYRL style hands in the future.

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Personally, the bubble hands are disappointed because they simply don't look good at all. Not because I perfer DYRL better than TV style.

Yamato should either re-design them(better looking bubble hands) or pack extra DYRL style hands in the future.

No matter what bubble hands they come up with, I am still disappointed because I really don't like bubble hands. It's too cartonish and I prefer dyrl style hands that have mechanical feel any days.

vf-1j-gbp-dyrl.gifvf-1j-gbp.gif

Anyway, it's sstill an easy mod by using the previous V2 dyrl hands to plug on GBP-1S. Just have to cut off the prong and drill new hole to mount on the wrist plate.

or just remove the wrist plate and mount the dyrl hands if you are lazy to do diy mod.

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Not to be rude... but the only difference you would be able to see is the head... the GBP covers like 90% of the toy. I guess if you like posing the toy so you see it's back that might be something different. I took pictures of the 1/48 GBP on just about every 1/48 VF toy (although I shrank 'em too small so the pics don't look all that wonderful) but what I learned from that experience was that the GBP pretty much looks the same on everything.

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My VF-1J with GPB-1S Armour arrived today! I know I should have just waited for the option kit, so I could stick on my exisiting 101 VF-1J but I... ...I got impatient... Another (proxy) supplier should be sending me the option kit with the "Itano Circus" bits sometime this month.

Grand Admiral noted, that he hopes that a Low Vis Version comes out... I wonder if the Thunder Hammer will be (challenged to be) redone for the 1/60 scale?

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Picked up the Yamato V2 1/60 VF-1J with GBP yesterday and also the VF-2SS Max at the Ins-Point shopping center in Yau Ma Tei.

Now there’s some good news and some bad news.

First the good news:

The GBP-1S Armour is absolutely beautiful IMO. Yamato have really outdone themselves. Yamato obviously designed the V2 VF-1 from the ground up to be compatible with the GBP Armor. The folding leg fins on the VF-1 really mean for the first time ever that we can have lower leg armor that is in proportion.

And talking of proportions, the new V2 GBP has absolutely the best proportions of any GBP toy to date IMO.

It’s packed full of detail, lots of nice little touches everywhere and I’m so happy that all the major markings are actually tampo printed on this time.

The GBP not only looks good, but it is extremely playable as well, as all the armor pieces stay on very well and nothing falls off. It's a huge improvement on both the original 1/60 GBP and the 1/48 GBP.

The side torso covers attach very securely and actually clip into place into the U-shape brackets that hold the hip bar in F/G modes - another nice touch that shows the V2 VF-1 was designed from the beginning with the GBP in mind. The cover behind the neck (another nice touch), also clips into place very securely.

Now for the bad news:

I took the toy home last night, unpacked it, transformed the included Hikaru VF-1J from fighter to battroid mode, so I could fit the GBP armor and on the first transformation, the shoulder hinge broke, which means the arm now falls off!

I was surprised to see that one end of the metal shoulder pin is knurled. I thought the factory had stopped using the knurled pins ages ago. In my opinion, the knurling does put too much pressure on the plastic and makes it very easy for the plastic around the end of the pin to crack.

See the attached photos, which show the broken plastic part and also the knurling on one end of the pin.

I have many V2 1/60 VF-1 toys and have transformed them dozens of times, but this is my first time that I have personally experienced a cracked shoulder. I'm pissed that this happened, when I thought the problem was fixed.

I've written to Yamato and am awaiting their reply.

For now, transform the arms with extreme care.

Graham

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Is it too soon to start waiting for the 1/48 V2?

I was really hoping we were beyond the broken shoulders but that looks exactly like the same issue from the original Roy toys. I guess in the absence of an official confirmation from Yamato that the problem is fixed it's not right to assume it's long behind us. "More caution at the factory" can only go so far.

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The knurling is quite visible even on the intact shoulder, so I'm going to carefully check other recent VF-1 releases tonight when I get home to see if I can spot it or not.

I'm hoping it's just a case of the factory using the wrong pins by mistake and Yamato not realising.

Graham

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Could you use what influence you have to get some extra shoulder hinges for those MW members who are still waiting for parts? I.E, ask for a half-dozen or so when you ask for replacement parts for yours? (will that VF-1J match the early VF-1S releases?----white vs very light grey, etc)

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Could you use what influence you have to get some extra shoulder hinges for those MW members who are still waiting for parts? I.E, ask for a half-dozen or so when you ask for replacement parts for yours? (will that VF-1J match the early VF-1S releases?----white vs very light grey, etc)

half dozen? more like several dozen.

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man, that's worse than the old pics of cracked shoulder hinges that i've seen...

it could also be that some (if not all) of the VF-1Js that were packaged w/ GBP-1S were leftover 1st releases... or it could be some random factory worker mistake like w/ what happened to my VT-1 having knurled shoulder hinge pins, since there are other parts of the v.2 VF-1 that uses them knurled pins. Thank god it's still okay along w/ my VF-1D.

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Oh no! I have never had a broken shoulder either and I have pretty much every release. This troubles me, if a shoulder breaks on an experienced Valk handler like Graham I should definately order some replacement parts from over-drive.

Speaking of Over-Drive! They updated my order status of the GBP to processing so all of you stressing about the transfer from the old site can breath a sigh of relief. PANIC IS OVER!!

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Haven't heard back from Yamato yet.

Here's a theory, I thought of a few minutes ago:

For every item Yamato has made, they give the factory a set of instructions, or a work guide if you like, which lists what they want made, the number and type of components it consists of, how it should be made, painted, tampoed etc, etc.

Although the GBP is a new item, the VF-1J that it comes with is basically a toy from last year, with the exception of a small paint application change (the grey visor). Suppose Yamato just cut and pasted the work guide from last year's Hikaru VF-1J into the guide for the GBP + VF-1J and forgot to change the pin part number.

This could explain why recent releases (I hope) use the new non-knurled pins and have had no breakages reported, but the VF-1J+GBP uses the older knurled pins.

As I said, just a theory and probably wrong.

Can anybody remember if the pins on the original VF-1S Focker an VF-1A Hikaru where knurled on both ends or on one end only?

Also, can anybody check some of the recent releases now to see if the pins are completely smooth on both ends, or knurled on one end like in my photo of the VF-1J that comes with the GBP?

Anyway, this is the first reported breakage (that I am aware of), in a long while, so the sky is not falling yet!

Graham

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My GBP armor is now happily being worn by my original VF-1J Hikaru, who has also had a head swap, so he now has the head with the grey visor.

The newer VF-1J Hikaru with the broken shoulder is now sulking in fighter mode, to hide his injury.

Graham

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I ordered the 1/60 GBP, but would rather have the low visibility woodland color scheme that was released for the 1/48. I hope Yamato will release it soon. :rolleyes:

The factory should have thrown away or recycled the old style metal pins. Honestly, if they were supposed to be using a new pin, why would they leave the old ones laying around for the factory workers to pick and choose as they like? :wacko:

My experience is that these toys are made in an assembly line process, wherein specific individuals are responsible for the final shoulder assembly. This was created/perfected by Henry Ford to permit employee specialization, thereby increasing production speed. Considering the toys are made in China, I sincerely doubt the workers are college graduates. Companies use China because of the cheap labor. :ph34r: This is an example of the fact that you don't always get what you pay for.

A pin with one edge like that is normally used to keep the pin from sliding out on one side; however, it makes no sense to use it in such thin plastic holes. I feel bad for everyone who has spent so much money only to end up with a broken arm hinge. :mellow:

The plastic around the pin looks to be only 1mm in thickness, which is much too thin for a shoulder joint, not to mention that the arms hold additional weight with the gunpod and armor. Getting a good Yamato appears to be a crapshoot. Roll the dice and pray yours won't end up an amputee. ^_^

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Just sent a fairly strongly worded follow-up email to Yamato asking why the knurled pins are still being used on some recent releases, yet others have the smooth pins.

Honestly, I went though all this with them already months ago in several meetings/calls/emails, even meeting with the factory owner and thought we had got the issue resolved by switching to all smooth pins for all releases.

I'm hoping it is the factory's error or negligence (using the wrong pins and not informing Yamato) and not Yamato's error as they should be beyond this sort of frakk up by now.

I'm busy enough with my own job without having to put out fires for somebody else's company!

Not a happy camper. Not (too) annoyed about my toy breaking, after all I can likely get it fixed or replaced. More annoyed that this problem is still occuring after all the pressure I put on them previously and the supposed solution that was supposed to be implemented across the board.

Graham

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Haven't heard back from Yamato yet.

Here's a theory, I thought of a few minutes ago:

For every item Yamato has made, they give the factory a set of instructions, or a work guide if you like, which lists what they want made, the number and type of components it consists of, how it should be made, painted, tampoed etc, etc.

Although the GBP is a new item, the VF-1J that it comes with is basically a toy from last year, with the exception of a small paint application change (the grey visor). Suppose Yamato just cut and pasted the work guide from last year's Hikaru VF-1J into the guide for the GBP + VF-1J and forgot to change the pin part number.

This could explain why recent releases (I hope) use the new non-knurled pins and have had no breakages reported, but the VF-1J+GBP uses the older knurled pins.

As I said, just a theory and probably wrong.

Can anybody remember if the pins on the original VF-1S Focker an VF-1A Hikaru where knurled on both ends or on one end only?

Also, can anybody check some of the recent releases now to see if the pins are completely smooth on both ends, or knurled on one end like in my photo of the VF-1J that comes with the GBP?

Anyway, this is the first reported breakage (that I am aware of), in a long while, so the sky is not falling yet!

Graham

My theory is that the 1J's included with the GPB sets are overstock 1J's from last year with painted visor trim. This would also explain why they have the old style nose hatches instead of the 1/48 style, easier to use hatches seen on the newer releases like the ELINT Seeker, low viz 1S, et al. Some of us were wondering why the old hatch was used on the GPB 1J, and if these 1J's truly are overstock from last year, with painted visors, we have our answer(since those didn't have the new nose hatches).

Edited by Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0
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