1/72 Hasegawa SV-51 Gamma w/ twin boosters (DD Ivanov type)

[nickster]

Hello Guys!

This will be my second Macross Zero kit to be built. But the truth is, this was my first Hasegawa Macross Zero Kit. The VF-0D was puchased a year after i bought this kit. I was then intrigued by the blue color of the VF-0D so it was the first to be finished. Anyway, the kits was typical hasegawa, molded in gray, and the ever reliable plastic quality that is easy to sand. Canopy is molded in clear including the clear lenses on the various parts of the aircraft. The parting line on the canopy will have to be removed by sanding and polishing. A very large decal sheet was included in the kit giving you the option to build either DD's black SV-51 or Nora's Pink and Yellow 51-Gamma.

As usual, after reading the manual, the first thing to build and paint was the cockpit. The insides of the cockpit requires Gunze Sangyo's (GSI nowadays) 305 or Gray. Airbrushed the interior parts with 305 Gray including the seat which I assembled earlier before. The paint was sprayed while the parts are in the tree (sprue).

After painting the interior parts of the cockpit, I found that the kits surface, tho it looks clean, is still has those mold release agents that keeps the paint from clinging to the plastic and needs to be treated with soap and water. So the painting of the twinboosters insides were abit delayed until all the parts have thoroughly dried.

[nickster]

The second night of building the SV-51 includes the painting of the insides of the twin boosters. Observing the insides, nasty ejector pin marks may be visble when the halves are joined. This problem was solved by sanding the pin marks with 320 grit sand paper then followed by 600 grit.

The insides were then painted with Gunze Sangyo 306 as per instruction sheet. The forward nose cone of the twin boosters were also painted with the same color.

More progress pics later.

[SchizophrenicMC]

I'd just like to point out that apparently, we're not allowed to have images in sigs, first of all. Don't know why, but we're not.

Moving onto the topic, you seem very knowledgeable about modelling. Skilled as well. Can't wait to see the full build.

[nickster]

I'd just like to point out that apparently, we're not allowed to have images in sigs, first of all. Don't know why, but we're not.

Moving onto the topic, you seem very knowledgeable about modelling. Skilled as well. Can't wait to see the full build.

Hello Schizo. Frankly, As someone new here, I forgot to read the rules... I was so excited when I first logged on as member and forgot the basics in entering new forums. Thank you very much for the reminder. (removing pic in my sig)

Honestly, I'm not that knowledgeable. I always learn from forums like these all over the net and by joining our local IPMS chapter here in the Philippines.

If time permits, I may be able to finish this kit by next month.

Hope to see you again and thanks again for the reminder.

[nickster]

Day three on the SV-51.

Continuing on the twin boosters. I have observed that the ejector pin marks on the rear will also be visible when painted with metallics.

This problem was remedied by scraping the pin marks with a design knife or modeling knife. Sanded the parts with 320 grit sandpaper to even the surface.

Going back to the cockpit, the painted cockpit base seems for additional details like was and drybrish to show the surface details.

The DD Ivanov figure was assembled prior to painting. The head was twisted a bit to the right, so the figure will be like looking on his wingman.

Some projects can be painted too while waiting for the paint to dry, the picture below shows the parts of an HGUC Kampfer covered in super gloss black for base color. Because later when the time for painting with metallics is due, this baby will be cued for painting too.

The weapons or loadout of the plane were assembled at this stage. Because I usually forgot these parts when assembled at a later stage.

The nose cone fins were then attached to both halves. I haven't closed the cone yet. Still deciding if i'm going to insert ballast weights on it.

Inserting weights was a a regular practice in older hasegawa plane models to balance the plane when laid on the ground with its landing gears.

[nickster]

Again, ejector pin marks present on the upper and lower parts of the jet intake.

Repaired the insides using a flat knife (OLFA FLAT) attached to an X-Acto knife handle. It was scrapped carefully going out of the intake, carefully not touching the sides, to avoid deep scraping canals. Sanded it again with 320 grit sandpaper for smoothness. Also brushed a few tamiya thin cement to smoothen it futher.

Tamiya putty will be employed to fill the small scratches and the gap in the attached ramp on the upper intake parts.

The rear landing gear bays also sports the ejector pin marks but this easily removed using 320 grit sandpaper. Test fitted the parts before closing it will glue will be a wise decision, since some parts may leave c\visible gaps or spaces when mated together. You can also observe a few things during test fitting, like where to paint or to add more details. Like in the rear gear bay, more wires will be running inside it to make it look more like the front landing gear bay.

Edited July 10, 2009 by nickster

[nickster]

Finishing the assembly with the twin boosters continues... Photo below shows the parts after the cement has totally cured.

To make the gaps more visible, a permanent marker was run throughout the seam line crated after it was glued together.

The permanent marker may be any color but i prefer red. I learned this technique while making Gundams

After sanding the seam with 600 grit sandpaper , the gaps can be readily seen. This will also show the panel lines that needed to be re-scribed using Hasegawa Tritool (saw and scriber) TP-4 or the back of a #11 X-acto blade. But I used both on this project.

After careful re-scribing and sanding the seam is now invisible or removed.

Running the permanent marker again from where the gap was will let you see if there are still parts to be sanded.

The assembled twin boosters with the fins and pylon. It is now ready for painting.

[nickster]

Front landing gear and rear tires were assembled at this stage and sanded smooth with 320 followed by 600 grit sandpaper.

The usual parting lines visible on the canopy bubble were removed using 320, 600 then 1000 grit sandpapers. Further smoothness was attained using Micromesh from 3200 grit to 12000 grit.

Dry-fitting most of the parts will help us in deciding where to glue, identify troublesome gaps when finished and will let us decide which parts will be painted first and masked.

More updates coming soon.

[jardann]

Your making fast progress! I like the marker technique for the seam lines. I will have to try that soon. Lord knows I need all the help I can get with eliminating seams.

[Paliodor]

I have to agree with jardann on this, that you are pretty fast if it goes about working on the kit. Since now it's looking nice, can't wait for the final result.

[wm cheng]

Your making fast progress! I like the marker technique for the seam lines. I will have to try that soon. Lord knows I need all the help I can get with eliminating seams.

I triple that! you are fast!! That's great. Never knew about the marker technique... must try that soon. I HATE SEAMS! and need all the help I can get too. Can you elaborate a bit on this technique - especially the last part after sanding, you run the marker again over the "supposed" smooth seam - what does that do? Do you sand again? If there were still a seam, how does it show up? I thought the market nib and ink would be too thick and big to run into any fine hairline seam that might remain?

Thanks, looking good!

p.s. I never found any mold release agents on Hasegawa kits (maybe I'm just lazy to wash) but what did it look/react like?

[nickster]

WM Cheng, Paliodor, Jardann... I'm not that fast, a co-worker - modeling buddy of mine is a real fast builder. He can finish a 1/72 kit in one week, without the wash and drybrush details of course. Actually, my 1/32 F-15E is still pending when I accidentally stepped on the front canopy when it fell during dry fitting. You can check my blog at http://talyerpinoy.blogspot.com .

For the permanent marker technique. I read this article on Hobby Japan (I dont really read japanese but only following the pictures ) about gunpla for beginners. He started with "seam welding" technique. Seam welding is applying a lot of liquid plastic cement on parts to be mated together. By pressing it, beads of glue will appear on the seam lines. When totally dried (after three hours) the beads of cement will harden and it will look like that the parts were welded together, thus the name "seam welding". But if three hours is long for you, you can try extra-thin cement from tamiya and have the same result, but it takes some practice.

Then using 320 grit sandpaper or your wife's / sister's emery board (make sure you have their permission ), slowly sand the bead without applying too much pressure. Using your favorite permanent marker, run the marker on the seam line. Let it dry thoroughly. Slowly wet-sand the ink with 600 grit sandpaper or if you lack patience, 400 is still fine, just don't put too much pressure or you will lose some panel line info that you need to re-scribe later.

By this time, you will see the gaps, filled with the color of the marker's ink. From 320 to 600 grit, wet-sanding will remove the unwanted gaps. You can then re-scribe the lost panel lines at this stage. Running the marker again on the smoothened out gaps will give you a preview of the part when painted. Since permanent markers are usually glossy, and your lamp at angle, further verification can be made if you have successfully removed the gaps that you do not want.

Note on choosing permanent markers: Before buying one, make sure you test it on white paper. If the line is thicker than the point of the marker, then this is the right marker to purchase. It means that the marker's ink is thin enough to get inside the gaps.

Hope this helps.

PS. the mold release agent when not removed leaves a patch of somehow "semi-painted" almost thin film of patch compared to some parts where the paint clings properly or evenly. This happens when paint is airbrushed at high pressure and the paint is very thin. About 1:3 paint to thinner ratio.

Edited July 8, 2009 by nickster

[nickster]

Hello guys! Nothing much happened on the kit today, except the usual sanding using the permanent marker technique on the payload, gunpods and missiles.

Second, I was not satisfied with the figure so, i scribed deeper panel lines on the pilot figure. Deeper panel lines will help us determine where will the paint will land due to its small size. The hands are a bit big, managed to scrape some volume out of it. The left arm lands on the figures left leg, unrealistic pose for a pilot. By cutting a piece of very small triangular shape of plastic from the sprue (tree), gluing it on the armpit of the figure, the angle of the arms moved a bir wider. Just enough to for the hands to touch the throttle control. During the test fitting stage of the figure, I find it hard for Ivanov to sit properly. A small piece of kneaded eraser (artist's eraser) helps the figure to sit straight / temporarily be glued on its place. Here's the pics.

Happy modeling everyone!

Edited July 8, 2009 by nickster

[SchizophrenicMC]

Hello Schizo. Frankly, As someone new here, I forgot to read the rules... I was so excited when I first logged on as member and forgot the basics in entering new forums. Thank you very much for the reminder. (removing pic in my sig)

Honestly, I'm not that knowledgeable. I always learn from forums like these all over the net and by joining our local IPMS chapter here in the Philippines.

If time permits, I may be able to finish this kit by next month.

Hope to see you again and thanks again for the reminder.

Yeah, believe me, I made that mistake... I think it was Roy Focker who told me.

Anyway, I'm nowhere near that good. I can barely get a simple model together and painted, let alone a Hase SV-51. So, since I suck so much in comparison, I must compliment you. It's lookin' good, man.

[DrunkenMaster2]

Wow looks good I may have to try that marker technique, good job, I'm liking what i'm seeing!!!!

[big F]

The marker thing is a great idea. Thanks for sharing it with us, and good job so far

[nickster]

SchizophrenicMC, DrunkenMaster2, big F, thanks for the compliments. I hope I did a good job in explaining the marker technique.

By the way, here's some update on the kit.

When I showed the pictures of the Ivanov figure to my co-worker/modeling buddy RICKY, he told me to modify the right arm too since it doesnt look good.

What i did a while ago is to carefully cut the right arm where it was glued and added a bit of plastic cut out from the sprue. When I glued the arm again and while posing it, i realized that there will be a big gap in between the shoulder/torso and the arms. I used a bit of tamiya basic putty to fill the gap. Then when it was dried, some roughness were removed using x-acto #11 blade. To promote smoothness, I brushed on Mr. Surfacer 1000 to fill the small gaps. Now both arms are in better pose and is ready for painting.

Next was the nose cone. I finally decided to add some counterweight on the nose cone. I used a very cheap lead washer, the one that they use on roofs. Since it cost about 0.01 in USD (that is 50 cents in philippine peso). Second these washers are malleable, you can hammer it to thin and you can use some pliers to bend it.

Initially, the lead washer was hammered thin then I cut it in two 1/4 rings of the washer with a side cutter. To follow the shape of the half-pipe cone, I bended it with two pairs of long-nose pliers. Test-fitted the leads before finally securing them with CA glue. Then I closed the two halves of the nose cone with thamiya super thin cement.

I mentioned earlier in this build that I have to put hydraulic hoses on the rear landing gear bays in this project. I started by drawing the hoses on the instruction sheet, then replicated the lines that i have drawn on the actual gear bay. By using old telephone wire (the twisted pairs), the one that runs outside of your house to the connection box, I have measured two lengths, where the color white will be the outermost and the brown is the inner most. Drilled four 0.8mm (but 1mm is better) holes on each gear bay surface, two in the front where the hoses will originate then one on the foot of the landing gear strut and lastly near the bay doors. By following the pre-drawn line, the wires were bent using the fingers and inserted both ends to the holes. Further arrangements in aligning the wires can be made using tweezers since it is very flexible. The ends were then bent to secure the wires. No glue was used since it fits quite well on the surface.

Whew! Got get some sleep now. See you again on saturday for more updates. Cant wait for friday night, MORE BEERS!

Til then, happy modeling!

Edited July 9, 2009 by nickster

[SchizophrenicMC]

So, basically, you're describing a method of poor-man's panel-lining? That's what I pulled out of that. Not the method I use, but it sounds... sound.

Your skill at detailing far outshines mine. I give up.

A Gundam Marker or 20, a hot screwdriver, and a mud marker, and I'm all set for some panel-lining, battle-damaging, and weathering. Screw adding details! That's for people with skills!

[wm cheng]

So, basically, you're describing a method of poor-man's panel-lining? That's what I pulled out of that. Not the method I use, but it sounds... sound.

Your skill at detailing far outshines mine. I give up.

A Gundam Marker or 20, a hot screwdriver, and a mud marker, and I'm all set for some panel-lining, battle-damaging, and weathering. Screw adding details! That's for people with skills!

I don't think so, I think the marker was just to indicate where the panel detail was (to re-scribe afterwards) and show up if there's still any seam left in the glued pieces that require further sanding. Kind of like using primer to see how you dealt with the seams (but easier).

[SchizophrenicMC]

I don't think so, I think the marker was just to indicate where the panel detail was (to re-scribe afterwards) and show up if there's still any seam left in the glued pieces that require further sanding. Kind of like using primer to see how you dealt with the seams (but easier).

Well, I don't know. Like I said, leave detailing to people with skills.

[mickyg]

Ah but you get the skills by doing Com'mon Schiz - you can do it! Practice with a cheapy model. I started modeling again because of people posting on this site (Thanks again, everyone!) and practiced on a 1/72 scale P-51 that cost 5 bucks or something. You can start with something like that - mine had like 10 parts I think. Anyway, that way you're not destroying the good stuff and you can still learn some of the techniques. A lot of the stuff people are doing, they do because it's easy, not hard. Some of the best techniques come around because someone's found a better/easier way to do something.

That said, Nickster - you're making me want to buy Mac Zero stuff now! Your builds are lots of fun to watch. Thanks for sharing!

Edited July 9, 2009 by mickyg

[SchizophrenicMC]

Ah but you get the skills by doing Com'mon Schiz - you can do it! Practice with a cheapy model. I started modeling again because of people posting on this site (Thanks again, everyone!) and practiced on a 1/72 scale P-51 that cost 5 bucks or something. You can start with something like that - mine had like 10 parts I think. Anyway, that way you're not destroying the good stuff and you can still learn some of the techniques. A lot of the stuff people are doing, they do because it's easy, not hard. Some of the best techniques come around because someone's found a better/easier way to do something.

That said, Nickster - you're making me want to buy Mac Zero stuff now! Your builds are lots of fun to watch. Thanks for sharing!

And you also can't gain skill without talent. Everyone has their own set of talents which evolve into skills. My talents, unfortunately, are limited to comedic self-injury and English-Nazi'ing.

I would practice more if I had money to buy the tools of said practice. I spend most of my time broke, and that's why my wishlist has had time to grow to a total of about $4000 in Gunpla and Macross.

Now, I will say I know how to do a simple poor-man's weather, battle damage, and panel line, and I can put together most models, and that's really enough for me. I have a tenuous grasp on painting, but I've been thinking of screwing spray and goin' all brush, anyway.

[big F]

Nick I am so stealing your phone cable idea. I have drums of the stuff

Schiz What you need to do is get yourself over to one of those garage sales or carboot sales that people have (are they called car trunk sales in the U.S) and buy up all the cheapy broken kids toy crap thats always there for a few cents. Practice on that and chuck it when its done or messed up.

That way its gonna cost you virtually nothing, and you get your skills all worked on. You never know you might actually make a good toy custom by accident.

You could also try advertising a "wanted broken toys etc" in your local 7-11 or what ever its called where you are.

A lot of people will be only too happy to off load the kids junk your way.

A friend did this a few years ago and ended up with parts for a toy that he was able to fix up with parts from a identcal but broken in other places one which he sold on evilBay for a few bucks paid for his paints that way. He now trolls the Carboot sales etc for broken toys to fix and sell, and makes all his hobby money from it.

Edited July 10, 2009 by big F

[SchizophrenicMC]

Nick I am so stealing your phone cable idea. I have drums of the stuff

Schiz What you need to do is get yourself over to one of those garage sales or carboot sales that people have (are they called car trunk sales in the U.S) and buy up all the cheapy broken kids toy crap thats always there for a few cents. Practice on that and chuck it when its done or messed up.

That way its gonna cost you virtually nothing, and you get your skills all worked on. You never know you might actually make a good toy custom by accident.

You could also try advertising a "wanted broken toys etc" in your local 7-11 or what ever its called where you are.

A lot of people will be only too happy to off load the kids junk your way.

A friend did this a few years ago and ended up with parts for a toy that he was able to fix up with parts from a identcal but broken in other places one which he sold on evilBay for a few bucks paid for his paints that way. He now trolls the Carboot sales etc for broken toys to fix and sell, and makes all his hobby money from it.

I actually plan on hitting up the hobby store when money comes in and practicing on some Gundam 00 First Grade kits. Cheap and cathartic. That way, if I ruin it, I have fun!

[nickster]

Well, I don't know. Like I said, leave detailing to people with skills.

Hello Schiz,

Detailing is hard if you dont put your heart and mind on it. You also need to build your confidence, skill and talent. And these things can be improved by building and building and so much building. It doesnt matter if you have done it right or wrong, its your work and its your satisfaction that you have to fill not anyone else's. So why bother posting an ugly work? By posting them you can get tips and suggestions that will make the hobby more closer to you and the group. As the knowledge you have improves, your buddy's here in the forum will get to learn and also increase their knowledge in the hobby as well.

This forum is a helping forum, not just showing how good you are.

Btw, dont tinker around cheap 00 models, it will just limit your imagination.

Nick

[nickster]

Ah but you get the skills by doing Com'mon Schiz - you can do it! Practice with a cheapy model. I started modeling again because of people posting on this site (Thanks again, everyone!) and practiced on a 1/72 scale P-51 that cost 5 bucks or something. You can start with something like that - mine had like 10 parts I think. Anyway, that way you're not destroying the good stuff and you can still learn some of the techniques. A lot of the stuff people are doing, they do because it's easy, not hard. Some of the best techniques come around because someone's found a better/easier way to do something.

That said, Nickster - you're making me want to buy Mac Zero stuff now! Your builds are lots of fun to watch. Thanks for sharing!

Hi there MickyG,

Thanks for liking what i'm im doing so far. And yeah, I really have so much fun building because modeling to me is some sort of meditation and relaxation, plus the smell of cement and thinners added to that.

More to come and see you again, bud.

nick

[nickster]

Nick I am so stealing your phone cable idea. I have drums of the stuff

big F, nice to see you again. Forgive me for guessing, but i think you work either on a telco or communications company

I got mine from my friends here in the office that works in our electronics and communication division.

see you again, bud.

Nick

[SchizophrenicMC]

Hello Schiz,

Detailing is hard if you dont put your heart and mind on it. You also need to build your confidence, skill and talent. And these things can be improved by building and building and so much building. It doesnt matter if you have done it right or wrong, its your work and its your satisfaction that you have to fill not anyone else's. So why bother posting an ugly work? By posting them you can get tips and suggestions that will make the hobby more closer to you and the group. As the knowledge you have improves, your buddy's here in the forum will get to learn and also increase their knowledge in the hobby as well.

This forum is a helping forum, not just showing how good you are.

Btw, dont tinker around cheap 00 models, it will just limit your imagination.

Nick

Er....

How do I put this? It's not a matter of confidence or anything. I just suck at detailing and I'm too... I don't know, lazy? I'm too lazy to care about detailing so much. I mean, I'm trying to get my hands on a Strike model to blow the hell out of, so I can work on my skill and simultaneously show my disdain for Gundam Seed. But they're more expensive than I care for.

I think, though, that using cheap 00 models, I can quickly build them, and have fun if I ruin them. As a morale booster, I guess. I mean, if I ruined a model I actually liked, I'd get real down or really angry, and the whole process would die. If I ruin (Is it Dynames?), I'll just have to say "That's what you get for being the sniper character!" or "Stupid Lockon. You die, anyway."

Besides, the local hobbystore has a bunch of really cheap first grades. I could get like 5 or 6 for the cost of the Master Grade Freedom on their shelf.

So, I'll leave it at this: I meant what I said as a compliment to you, Nick, and I don't really care if I'm not good at what's not my forte. Not to say I've found what I'm inherently great at. I'm only 15. But I'm not gonna say my own skills are even comparable to something like this if they aren't.

Closing statement: Keep up the good SV. Wanna see that thing done.

[nickster]

So, I'll leave it at this: I meant what I said as a compliment to you, Nick, and I don't really care if I'm not good at what's not my forte. Not to say I've found what I'm inherently great at. I'm only 15. But I'm not gonna say my own skills are even comparable to something like this if they aren't.

Closing statement: Keep up the good SV. Wanna see that thing done.

Hi there Schiz,

Got your point. When I was your age, how do i put this, its not being lazy at all. I call it divided attention. When Im at home I think about gundams, macross and other modeling stuff. But when im out, Im busy with my friends talking about girls and checking them out.

Since I cant check out girls fulltime, now that im almost 37. (what am I saying? hope my wife doesnt visit this forum ) Its mostly modeling stuff both at work and home. Thats why my office is filled with unbuilt kits so I can hide it from my wife and wouldnt ask me questions.

Thanks for the compliments bud. Anyway, updates are coming.

Regards,

Nick

[nickster]

Last weekend, nothng happened to the kit. Got out of town for two days with my friends.

But monday night, I happen to open the box again and continue working on this project.

Here's what i've done so far.

I have finished the tail fins assembly by test fitting them. There is an option to fix the horizontal tail fin in either raised or lowered.

You need to use part C13 and C14 for raise vertical fin and C17 and 18. Decided to go for the lowered fins so i used parts C17 and 18.

test fitted them before gluing to identify troublesome parts.

Lastly, the main wings have been assembled. But after the assembly, I have this need to make the flaps lowered. So I pulled up hasegawa's scribing tool and saw set for this purpose. started by cutting the edge and scribed the edges on the middle of the wing. Scribed deep enough to bend the flaps to make it lowered.

Simulated the whole plane by using masking tapes so i can identify what modlues that I can paint independently before final assembly.

Next stop. Painting season... I think I have to start with the insides of the canopy then the metallics.

See yah!

Nick

Edited July 15, 2009 by nickster

[MechTech]

Looks good so far Nickster. I think the marker idea is great. I use it sometimes when my lighting isn't good (more so at night). Bright direct sunlight will show scratches when viewed at different angles and that's what I prefer. But the marker (thinner than paint) shows ALL your goofs before painting. I don't prime most of my tiny 1/200 models because the detail gets lost.

Thanks for sharing and keep it up! - MT

[mickyg]

Its mostly modeling stuff both at work and home. Thats why my office is filled with unbuilt kits so I can hide it from my wife and wouldnt ask me questions.

Hah! That's exactly what I'm doing! My wife thinks I'm working on a Mospeada variable Legioss. She's got no idea I bought the VF-25G (or the Yamato VF-1a, for that matter...). She's seen the 25G I'm working on, but fortunately, she's not familiar enough with Macross to know that this is a different model. I'm so bad...

Back to your project, Nick it's looking great! Keep up the great work - I'm so building this some day!

[big F]

Hah! That's exactly what I'm doing! My wife thinks I'm working on a Mospeada variable Legioss. She's got no idea I bought the VF-25G (or the Yamato VF-1a, for that matter...). She's seen the 25G I'm working on, but fortunately, she's not familiar enough with Macross to know that this is a different model. I'm so bad...

Back to your project, Nick it's looking great! Keep up the great work - I'm so building this some day!

Muh ha ha Ha!!!

So when you have finished you can just say "Oh where did that come from ?"

[mickyg]

Exactly! Oh, the lengths we go to hide our hobbies from our wives. What's wrong with us?

[SchizophrenicMC]

MAN, I'm glad I'm a minor. I don't have to worry about the wife, since I can't even have one! (Intheunitedstates)

I'll take some advice from you all: Don't marry someone who isn't as into this as I am.

When I'm out and about, I talk about Gundam and Macross and girls; at home, I think about Gundam and Macross, and mecha-musume.