SVF-Gerwalk Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Just watched a tutorial where it used a polyurethan coat to obtain gloss, and protection for decals, and I whant do a try, but I dont talk japanese. Please, can anyone say what is this ? : 784765.bmp 764575.bmp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kylwell Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 Just watched a tutorial where it used a polyurethan coat to obtain gloss, and protection for decals, and I whant do a try, but I dont talk japanese. Please, can anyone say what is this ? : 784765.bmp 764575.bmp Do you need a specific polyurethane coat or will JW etc's work? It's available in gloss, satin & matte. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVF-Gerwalk Posted June 9, 2009 Author Share Posted June 9, 2009 Forget it, this seems very solid but is complicated, I´ll use lacquer of cars paint. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Forget it, this seems very solid but is complicated, I´ll use lacquer of cars paint. Thanks. A lacquer clear will ravage your decals due to the agressive nature of the solvent contained within. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVF-Gerwalk Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 A lacquer clear will ravage your decals due to the agressive nature of the solvent contained within. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. So maybe the solvent that is used in polyurethan is less agressive. Watch the tutorial, pro stuff here, this guy used a standard clear coat only to protect decals before the use of polyurethan and solvent : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTaEHNViKmM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 I hope to be able to do pro stuff like that one day... In the meantime, what are you planning to clear-coat? A car or an aircraft? While both may be glossy in finish, I would advise a different technique for each: automotive clear works for the car model because even though the clear-coat is thicker and syrupier than most modelling paints, it still won't affect detail significantly at 1/24 scale or larger, all while providing the glossiest, flexible and durable finish you can buy. I've done car models using a barrier coat (between the final clear and decals) and some without; excellent results either way. On an aircraft, 1/48 or smaller, the viscous nature of an automotive clear will simply drown panel lining and fine detail, which is why I'd opt for gloss lacquer paint job (Gunze or Tamiya spray can) then decal application, followed by a coat of Future floor wax... But that's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVF-Gerwalk Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 (edited) Sry for long answer I´m so busy , thanks for the advising It´s a VF-25 valkyrie ofcourse , I´ll try some diferents point of view and make a glossy Anime valkyrie , also I´m waiting a EVA-01 Perfect Grade to use the same technique. I´ll try use varnish to make glossy these things, I´ll work on varnish coat, sanding it and using Compound to fix problems. I´m working on plastics now, sanding and doing deep panelines to prevent drown, and improving some things in the way . Extra panel line: Back plate sanded and with deep panel lines: Edited June 14, 2009 by SVF-Gerwalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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