Official Bandai 1/60 Scale DX Toy Thread Ver.5

[Renato]

I haven't replied in this thread for a while. Anyway, here's an update on my situation.

I sent back the Michel to Bandai because of the loose crotch connector. I joked (not directly to them, though) that the way things are going now they would probably send me a replacement one with some other problem instead. Well, as bad luck would have it, the one I eventually got sent had an extremely loose, floppy right shoulder. Sigh. As for the crotch connector, well, it's not as tight as I would have hoped, but it is better, it doesn't just break in half on its own like the previous one. Then again, I have only transformed it a couple of times. To be honest, I can't even be bothered to anymore.

I even thought about sending it back AGAIN, but I'm just too busy for these roulette games. I was in two minds about getting the fold booster, but enough is enough. No more money for you, Bandai. Or you, Yamato, looking smug in the corner.

[Hikaroso]

Anyone notice if their alto has two different color legs? Mine has one pearl white and one off white > : ( now I really want a replacement!!!

[Cent]

At least you didn't get a RVF-25 then >_>

[Hikaroso]

At least you didn't get a RVF-25 then >_>

I actually wouldn't mind it if the difference was on the surface of a different type of material. Like if the difference was on the metal chest VS the legs that are of the same plastic.

[whitestar]

Has anyone figured out a way to protect the tampo prints from rubbing off from the RVF-25? Although happy with the RVF-25 (tight joints, mismatch green tints don't bother me a bit), the tampo print on the valk's left leg armor has started to rub off. Would spray painting with clear coat help? Has anyone tried it?

[regult]

If you haven't heard of a pile of broken V2 shoulders then you haven't been listening. The first edition Focker they released has an epic failure rate... although not quite as epic as their 50/50 VF-0 toys. The Bandai DX 25 is still a long ways from hitting double digits in failures and when it "breaks' it's a screw that is broken... not a crucial part of molded plastic or something like that. People can't help it if their toys are broken from the get go, or break immediately thereafter, but there is certainly a proclivity toward panic in all toy forums.

Thanks for reminding me about my post...First of all, I am not sure if my English is too poor or Hikaroso is too unhappy with his broken VF, but I didn't mean any evil towards somebody who got a broken 100-dollar toy (maybe more) right out of the box, that sucks, and I thought that's what I meant, if that happened to me, I'd be...you get the point.

Hmm...I did follow the discussions regarding the VF-1 version 2, and maybe because mine didn't break, I thought there was not a huge pile of dead Fockers and an angry mob of collectors with torches in front of Yamato's office, but you're right that at least it wasn't as epic a failure as the VF-0 (lucky me, I have a floppy issue 3 VF-0 Focker with everything supposedly fixed!).

Regarding QC, I don't mind what "brand" is printed on the toy, I will be more demanding with more expensive stuff, so I am not going to kill anyone because of a paint smudge on a gashapon...and I also agree with you on this: there is a proclivity toward panic (that's the message my poor English was trying to convey)...and wanted to add that now even Bandai toys are the subject of some sort of (non-double digit) panic (or at least "concern" maybe?).

But the 1/60 DX is still so much uglier than the 1/72 model...

Edited April 26, 2009 by regult

[mpchi]

Has anyone figured out a way to protect the tampo prints from rubbing off from the RVF-25? Although happy with the RVF-25 (tight joints, mismatch green tints don't bother me a bit), the tampo print on the valk's left leg armor has started to rub off. Would spray painting with clear coat help? Has anyone tried it?

Clearcoat may help to an extend, but won't be a real remedy, since the issue is how weak the paint latching onto the smooth plastic surface. So while it reduces direct contact on the paint, any harder rubbing or scraping from your hand or from parts during transformation will still lift the paint off. Also, depends on how good you applying the clear coat, it may add new blemishes to the look, if lets say you accidentally got a few bubbles on the surface during your spray. And clearcoat gets rubbed off too if you handle the figure too much.

I was being real careful on my Alto, but still got a bit small scratches/rubbing on the letters. Then with the added Fast Pack, things got worse as there are more fiddling to be done when you transform or pose the figure. End up more severe scratches on the markings on the Fast Pack. So now, I am just gonna 'man handle' my Alto and not worry about it no more. Its too hard to avoid them completely, unless you don't fiddle with it at all. When my Armored VF-25S Ozma come, I'll treat it as a display piece, while Alto will be the one to be played with.

Edited April 27, 2009 by mpchi

[biggooftoybox]

Hmm sounds like there are more ppl seeing problems. I've opened up my VF-25G and so far so good although i haven't toyed around it that much. Haven't opened uo my RVF-25 yet but looks like i'd better open it soon to check for problems.

[ntsan]

Bandai also posted a few pics of the accessory sets in their blog.

http://www.tamashii.jp/staff_diary/diary.p...72&level=01

I was wondering would they consider release the missile only? That is what the current VF-25 are missing, some armament (well except Armor pack.)

[whitestar]

Clearcoat may help to an extend, but won't be a real remedy, since the issue is how weak the paint latching onto the smooth plastic surface. So while it reduces direct contact on the paint, any harder rubbing or scraping from your hand or from parts during transformation will still lift the paint off. Also, depends on how good you applying the clear coat, it may add new blemishes to the look, if lets say you accidentally got a few bubbles on the surface during your spray. And clearcoat gets rubbed off too if you handle the figure too much.

Thanks for your feedback. I grip the valk at the leg armors when in fighter mode, so that may be what caused the paint on the left side to rub off (the paint on the right leg armor remains intact). I don't manhandle my valks, so it's disappointing that even a little bit of pressure will rub the paint off. I was planning on getting the vf-25g but I'll wait to see if Bandai ever comes out with a v2. Here's hoping that Bandai will allow parts exchange down the road, as Yamato currently does.

[Vifam7]

There's been some comments from Japan stating that the reissue Alto has better paint application.

[logos]

how much???

I just paid 11,400 yen (117.37 USD) on Hobby Search. Shipping was 3,200yen (32.94USD).

Edited April 27, 2009 by logos

[sil80jdm]

I just paid 11,400 yen (117.37 USD) on Hobby Search. Shipping was 3,200yen (32.94USD).

Just got my shipping notice from anime-export for the reissue alto is on it's way

[HG Blows]

Someone mentioned differences between the holes on the 1st version versus the restock version, does someone have a comparison shot of this? I would like to know if I have the first or second version.

Thanks.

[jenius]

If you can put Luca's radome on Alto then you have a second edition.

[todd77]

If you can put Luca's radome on Alto then you have a second edition.

I'm not too sure about this. My RVF has a giant hole for the radome's largest peg whereas my 25G, while the hole is there, it is covered. It does have the smaller holes and slots for the Radome's smaller pegs but with the giant hole covered, the radome cannot be attached. I wonder if Bandai will make the hole cover for the 25F removable for the fold booster attachment.

[UN Spacy]

Just got my shipping notice from anime-export for the reissue alto is on it's way

Same here.

Thanks for the link.

[UN Spacy]

Just to confirm Vifam7's reports about the VF-25F's tweaks.

I saw this on TFW. Interesting news about the wings and better tampo printing.

11340 yen @ Volks in Akihabara... not bad !!

Shoulders are super tight, and the waist connector is very tight and nice. Transformed it twice, and no tampo rub. Seems good.

Wings not as "curved" as the VF-25G and VF-25S that I have to compare.

Plus keep an eye on this thread for more photos.

http://www.toysdaily.com/discuz/thread-93917-1-1.html

[promethuem5]

So..... I'm ready for BBTS to get my Alto. Love that it has improvements, I'm DYING to get some VF-25 freak on!

[ff95gj]

Quick shots:

I like the plain mode better than the super mode. The super mode is too bulky in the chest, and the legs have no curve/ shape and don't look good.

The super parts attach well on the 25F, and the joints are tight. But some of them are too tight to my taste... Anyone knows how to lossen the shoulder joint, like the case for the Yamato 1/60?

[SuperHobo]

Is it just me or does the shape of the head look a little different on your sample?

[MacrossJunkie]

Is it just me or does the shape of the head look a little different on your sample?

Proportions of the head and all look the same to me. Maybe it's just the angle that's making you think it looks different?

[UN Spacy]

Need F-Mode pics......STAT!

[m0n5t3r]

Quick shots:

nice... that's the re-issue right? looks skinnier even (proly just something wrong w/ my eyes)

lots of stocks there of this re-issue? how much? thanks!

man, all these new pics are making me antsy...

Edited April 29, 2009 by m0n5t3r

[Negotiator]

The head lasers are angled out the way they should be. My original alto's are angled in. Not

Sure if everyone's original angles in tho.

[Javabean]

I think must be the angle of the shot taken, make it look skinnier.

Glad to hear some improvement here. Can't wait for my VF-25F reissue fm HLJ to come. Still no words when my order will be shipped though?

[mpchi]

The head lasers of mine angled in, as well as 90% of the pics I've seen. Its possible that Bandai fixed this minor issue with the second run?

The angled out lasers help make it look better, as well as the way the chest is arranged in that pic, with the shoulder(right besides the neck) flush and chest sticks out more and showing the 'belly button' dot. Looks better, but don't think its that stable in that state when you handle the figure and neck tends to collapse easy, as there are room for the chest and back to move around. Most of the time, in more stable positions, the 'belly button' dot on the nose cone shouldn't be showing.

[ff95gj]

I've pressed the shoulders inwards as far as I could so it would look less chunky, and I am kind of satisifed in the plain mode. The super mode... I think the problem is in the chest and legs (?).

For the head cannons... They were angled in too in the box. I've pulled them sideways a dozen of times before I shot the pics; and I hope it will stay that way for a while.

To m0n5t3r: there are still lots of stocks, but because it has been around just for a few days. The price has dropped to ~US$108 now here.

Anyone can answer my question regarding loosening the shoulders please?

Edited April 29, 2009 by ff95gj

[MACROSSF]

Anime-Export shipped out mine yesterday...

[m0n5t3r]

I've pressed the shoulders inwards as far as I could so it would look less chunky, and I am kind of satisifed in the plain mode. The super mode... I think the problem is in the chest and legs (?).

For the head cannons... They were angled in too in the box. I've pulled them sideways a dozen of times before I shot the pics; and I hope it will stay that way for a while.

To m0n5t3r: there are still lots of stocks, but because it has been around for a few days. The price has dropped to ~US$108 now here.

Anyone can answer my question regarding loosening the shoulders please?

good to hear that the prices for these have normalized... hope there will be some left by the time i go there, along w/ the 25G and the prices remain the same if not lower.

BTW, how's your 25G? i really want to get a 25G also but i'm worried about getting one w/ the reported loose groin connection. so far, from what i've read, the 25G has the most reported cases of this... and i'm really trying to avoid having to apply nailpolish or whatever... seems like all the other 25s have a more secure groin connection. thanks!

[mpchi]

Anyone can answer my question regarding loosening the shoulders please?

Oops. Forgot this one. I wouldn't suggest to loosen the shoulders. Why? They wear off on their own. If you are lucky, then they wear off evenly on both sides. For some, the tightness wear off really fast. For me, they take a while, but eventually became looser after a good amount of posing. But the weird thing I notice is, sometimes when it gets loosen, its happens very fast, almost as if some paint inside the ball or plastic in the socket got scraped off in a couple incident. Or just the screw get loosen. This happens to my left shoulder, got significantly looser in a day, at a certain angle. Lucky, its still decently tight, and pretty even to the right shoulder still for the most part. But compare to brand new, its much looser now. So it may be a blessing when they are both very tight still.

But if you really want to loosen them, just keep twisting the ball joint back and forth a bunch of times (while holding the 5 dots square block...you don't want to break the screws there like a few others, especially the left shoulder block, just in case) and it will get looser. Just make sure you don't rub off the shoulder markings by accident. The back screw is shut tight by the circular cover, so there is no way to access the screw, unless you pry or drill out the cover.

While I don't suggest doing this on VF-25 (since the shoulder screw is not accessible), seeping in some oil on the ball joint can quickly loosen the joint by reducing friction. But its a non-reversible loosening if you can't open the joint and wipe off the oil/grease. But might work well in other cases.

Hope that helps.

Edited April 29, 2009 by mpchi

[Graham]

The reissue VF-25F looks sexy with the modified head lasers. I may well just have to pick one up instead of a second VF-11B like I originally planned (at least until the heatshield issue is resolved).

Graham

[UN Spacy]

Haven't the head lasers always looked like that?

[nugundamII]

Clearcoat may help to an extend, but won't be a real remedy, since the issue is how weak the paint latching onto the smooth plastic surface. So while it reduces direct contact on the paint, any harder rubbing or scraping from your hand or from parts during transformation will still lift the paint off. Also, depends on how good you applying the clear coat, it may add new blemishes to the look, if lets say you accidentally got a few bubbles on the surface during your spray. And clearcoat gets rubbed off too if you handle the figure too much.

I was being real careful on my Alto, but still got a bit small scratches/rubbing on the letters. Then with the added Fast Pack, things got worse as there are more fiddling to be done when you transform or pose the figure. End up more severe scratches on the markings on the Fast Pack. So now, I am just gonna 'man handle' my Alto and not worry about it no more. Its too hard to avoid them completely, unless you don't fiddle with it at all. When my Armored VF-25S Ozma come, I'll treat it as a display piece, while Alto will be the one to be played with.

Nail Polish worked for me

[nugundamII]

The reissue VF-25F looks sexy with the modified head lasers. I may well just have to pick one up instead of a second VF-11B like I originally planned (at least until the heatshield issue is resolved).

Graham

Ill say it again

How do I get into the weapons business. Triples and doubles of everything!!!! COME ON!!!