Bandai 1/72 Scale Macross Frontier Model Kit Thread Ver.3

[edwin3060]

How does one obtain a Sound blasters speaker and ranka accessory kit for Michael for the 1/72 kit?

You gotta scratch build it yourself... unless Bandai releases a special set at the upcoming hobby show, or someone does a resin cast.

[ntsan]

Btw can I use Tamiya acrylic paint on the joint? Would they be the same result on thickening the joint?

[alfye]

Btw can I use Tamiya acrylic paint on the joint? Would they be the same result on thickening the joint?

Yes, you can, but be careful and use acrilic thinner to avoid compromising assembly.

I´ve painted most of the joints with Tamiya GunMetal without thinner and the Hip joints (the joints between crotch and legs) now are too thick, while it´s almost impossible to articulate the legs

[Vince]

bandai preview

bottom of page

[edwin3060]

Sweet! Thanks for the link.

[optimuscarlos]

Hi, does anybody know if the new coming, Armored messiah valkyrie, would be able to put on and put off the armor with no necesity for replacing parts?

I don't want to (or I can't) spend so much money buying a normal valkyrie, a super valkyrie and a armored valkyrie, so, I was thinking on buying only the armored valkyrie and the set of super parts and try to someway making the armors attachable, like a toy.

Could that be possible?!!

what do you think?

[ntsan]

Don't think so, or otherwise the armor part would be lose like the DX toys. But if you are skilled modeler it could probably work..

[mrsmithz]

Hi, does anybody know if the new coming, Armored messiah valkyrie, would be able to put on and put off the armor with no necesity for replacing parts?

I don't want to (or I can't) spend so much money buying a normal valkyrie, a super valkyrie and a armored valkyrie, so, I was thinking on buying only the armored valkyrie and the set of super parts and try to someway making the armors attachable, like a toy.

Could that be possible?!!

what do you think?

I dont see why not. I got 1 super parts kit and 3 messiahs... The only thing is that if you paint the model, just seal the parts individually. Not a problem. I switch parts back and forth from all my kits.

But you have to remember that this is a model kit and not a toy. I destroyed my first vf-25s this way, joints broke, parts became too loose... now I salvage it for spare parts on my other builds.

If you dont plan to paint and just stick with the stickers it should be fine.

If you dont paint but use the water slide decals, use a sealer like minwax water based polyacrilic --- about 4 coats to protect the decals and you should be fine.

good luck

[Graham]

As nice as these are, they are not toys. My first build Alto is now in peices from too much transformation.

Graham

[PetarB]

Models + Transformation = Tragedy

Learn the lesson, or buy toys.

[regult]

I am not sure it is a great idea to try modding the super and armor parts so you can have fun with only one basic VF-25. Honestly, these are not as expensive as the toys, and you'd be way better off with 1 of each, and don't transform them too often or they'll break apart really soon, no matter how careful you are.

I am going to have to study the coating techniques before I make the entire skull squad. My first "F" has pretty much all decals destroyed, and I am not planning to buy an airbrush+pump, so a rattle can of clear coat or that water-based "wax" will have to do, what do you guys reckon?

[honkhet]

I don't want to (or I can't) spend so much money buying a normal valkyrie, a super valkyrie and a armored valkyrie, so, I was thinking on buying only the armored valkyrie and the set of super parts and try to someway making the armors attachable, like a toy.

Could that be possible?!!

what do you think?

my fren the short answer is, no

save your money, space out your purchases to recover financially.

have 3 valks for basic, super and armored modes.

dont do anything risky that might ruin even a single one of them

[onderon]

I finally got my hands on the 1/72 mihail, luca and the super parts but don't know when I'll be starting on them. Maybe they'll end up collecting dust for a few months first lawl. Also considering giving Luca a different paint scheme since the pastel green is such a turn off. If you guys can suggest some nice colors that would be awesome.

[azrael]

As nice as these are, they are not toys. My first build Alto is now in pieces from too much transformation.

Models + Transformation = Tragedy

Learn the lesson, or buy toys.

See, those of us who've made transforming Gunpla have been saying this for a while now.

[electric indigo]

I finally got my hands on the 1/72 mihail, luca and the super parts but don't know when I'll be starting on them. Maybe they'll end up collecting dust for a few months first lawl. Also considering giving Luca a different paint scheme since the pastel green is such a turn off. If you guys can suggest some nice colors that would be awesome.

I'd love to see a VE-1 Elint Seeker paintjob on that one.

[mrsmithz]

I am not sure it is a great idea to try modding the super and armor parts so you can have fun with only one basic VF-25. Honestly, these are not as expensive as the toys, and you'd be way better off with 1 of each, and don't transform them too often or they'll break apart really soon, no matter how careful you are.

I am going to have to study the coating techniques before I make the entire skull squad. My first "F" has pretty much all decals destroyed, and I am not planning to buy an airbrush+pump, so a rattle can of clear coat or that water-based "wax" will have to do, what do you guys reckon?

These models dont really need an airbrush set to look good. Tamiya sprays will do fine with great results.

Things to get:

1. Sandpaper - I recommend the tamiya ultra fine. 800-1000-1200 grits

2. Bottle of future.

3. Tamiya sprays

4. Some gundam markers - black, silver - or as needed just for touch ups.

5. Tamiya Flat/gloss clear spray

VF-25F - I recommend that you dont really paint them as they are white already any form of white paint over it will not really help. Thats unless you prime first, but then again thats a pain in the azz to do so i dont really recommend it. This model will look fine by just applying the water slide decals, and panel lining the kit.

As for the non white parts, i recommend that you use Tamiya Light Gun Metal. Dont spray the entire runner, especially the joint parts since it will thicken it and when you assemple, it might actually break or snap off.

Panel line, spray, assemble and place water slide decals. Seal with future. You can apply with a brush.

After its all dry 1 to 2 days - I recommend that you apply several coats. After its dry (1-2 days) spray with Tamiya Flat/Gloss clear to the finish you want. Or just leave the future as your sealer.

Vf-25S i used Tamiya spray cans - Light gunmetal, Insignia White, and USAAF Neutral Grey. Clear coat with Future, panel line with Oil wash (use turpenoid) place decals... reseal and then done.

[regult]

Thanks for the very detailed instructions, but I am lost in one step: FUTURE...I don't even know what that's supposed to look like here (Hong Kong), I remember there was a page with the different brands and names the polish goes by, but in any case, I haven't used it ever.

Is it possible to decal, panel with gundam "oil based" marker", clear coat and assemble (the "shell")?

I am planning to only clear coat the outer shell, and leave the skeleton alone, except maybe some of the joints like arms, legs, hands and head laser.

I heard there are problems with gundam markers and enamel based clear coats (water based marker+enamel based rattle can=disaster?). Somebody else (can't remember who at this point) had used a rattle can to clear coat the model and said it was simple.

I am picturing myself doing the squeleton and the shell, sanding the seams, pulling them off, decal, panel line with gundam marker (oil based), let dry (one day? two?) and then clear coat with a can (the curvy contours are difficult to paint right? should I hold the can about 30 cm away from the parts?

Sorry for all these questions, but I am really not experienced and I stick to 1/72 VF-25s because the DX toy is too expensive for what it is...If there was a half-decent line art accurate and reasonably priced toy that does not vaporize in the box, I would willingly give up on these beautiful but fragile kits.

Thanks again to all experienced modellers for your imput, I hope I can complete the SMS squad sometime soon and share family pictures!

[mrsmithz]

Thanks for the very detailed instructions, but I am lost in one step: FUTURE...I don't even know what that's supposed to look like here (Hong Kong), I remember there was a page with the different brands and names the polish goes by, but in any case, I haven't used it ever.

Is it possible to decal, panel with gundam "oil based" marker", clear coat and assemble (the "shell")?

I am planning to only clear coat the outer shell, and leave the skeleton alone, except maybe some of the joints like arms, legs, hands and head laser.

I heard there are problems with gundam markers and enamel based clear coats (water based marker+enamel based rattle can=disaster?). Somebody else (can't remember who at this point) had used a rattle can to clear coat the model and said it was simple.

I am picturing myself doing the squeleton and the shell, sanding the seams, pulling them off, decal, panel line with gundam marker (oil based), let dry (one day? two?) and then clear coat with a can (the curvy contours are difficult to paint right? should I hold the can about 30 cm away from the parts?

Sorry for all these questions, but I am really not experienced and I stick to 1/72 VF-25s because the DX toy is too expensive for what it is...If there was a half-decent line art accurate and reasonably priced toy that does not vaporize in the box, I would willingly give up on these beautiful but fragile kits.

Thanks again to all experienced modellers for your imput, I hope I can complete the SMS squad sometime soon and share family pictures!

Here is the thing, if you cant find future, use the Tamiya Clear Gloss. But the problem with that is that you need to spray it about 10 min after you spray the model with its base color or about 2 weeks later. The reason is that it needs to either mix with the base coat of spray, or sprayed on after the base color is fully cured.

I recommend that you use clear gloss paint about 10 min after you spray the base color.

You basically need clear coats gloss to have an even surface for the decals. Let the entire thing dry for at least 2 days.

Now you can start panel lining. But I dont recommend gundam markers since it will be really hard to remove it from the colors you've just painted. go to an art supply store, get 1 tube of black oil paint and some oderless turpentine (turpenoid). Make a wash, the mix should be mostly turpernoid with very little paint. Use a fine tip brush and touch the panel lines. Let dry for 1 day and you can remove the excess simply by using a paper towel. If you use gundam marker, you will have to strip the paint in order to get it off. Trust me I went through it. You will need to experiement with panel lining and see what method you like best. The first time i used oils to panel line, i hated it because I couldnt get the right results. After much trial and error, I finally got it right and its a lot better then what you would get using gundman markers.

Once panel lining is done decal and use microsol or solvaset to set the decals. Let all of it now dry for another day. Use clear flat and seal.

[MR_Hyde]

The above advice from mrsmithz is pretty much straight on. I usually wait until I am done with decaling to do the panel lines or else the decals sit over the 'dirty' lines. I like for the panel line wash to go over the decal, then it looks more 'to scale'.

The Tamiya rattle-cans are superb and the spray settles down beautifully. It works perfectly in lieu of an airbrush. I airbrushed three good coats of Future on my Ozma before beginning to decal. If you use a paint brush, be sure to not stir the future and create airbubbles. You can easily get distracted trying to brush them out. The Future also lays down very good and levels very well. If you use the Tamiya gloss coat you will get the same results. Just remember to mist coat it and keep the can moving, or else you will get puddles of clear coat, and that sucks.

Here's my progress so far. I'm almost done with decaling- a few left around the middle of the top fuselage and the intake area. I painted the area behind the head and the small intakes on the legs that appear just to the rear of the skull marking. The decals are thick and you can see the screen printing but they settle down beautifully with additional coats of Micro Sol. I painted the cockpit with a little grey and some Tamiya Gunmetal. Love the color. The only other area I painted were the thruster/vector nozzles on the end of each leg. I started with Gunmetal and then thinned some Chrome Silver and hit the highlights. Once that dried, I loaded some thinned Citadel Chaos Black and misted the edges of the thrusters. The Citadel black dries very, very flat and looked like soot. The effect was to try to replicate heated metal. Once all that had cured I used some of the Tamiya weathering powder (heated blue) and hit some of the high spots. I'm pretty pleased with the effect and wish the camera did it more justice. In the end, I am probably going to 'glue' it in the fighter mode. The decision will hinge on how well the decals stay after 3 coats of Dullcote.

[westfall]

Great job. Those thrusters look awesome and that cockpit... UAU! I especially like the green panel effect. Very nice indeed.

[protostar8]

my fren the short answer is, no

save your money, space out your purchases to recover financially.

have 3 valks for basic, super and armored modes.

dont do anything risky that might ruin even a single one of them

I agree. Buy a Luca for normal b/c it looks good with just the radar dish and ghosts around it. Do a Super Michael b/c it looks nice with the color scheme and super parts. And lastly, Armored Ozma b/c it just looks bad-ass...

[Kyp Durron]

Anyone know what specific paint matches the main gray on Ozma's Valk? I want to say Neutral Gray, but I'm not sure...

-Kyp

[mrsmithz]

Anyone know what specific paint matches the main gray on Ozma's Valk? I want to say Neutral Gray, but I'm not sure...

-Kyp

Tamiya Aircraft spray USAAF Neutral Grey is very close. Its a little darker but a very good match.

Attached sample colors used:

Tamiya Aircraft sprays - USAAF neutral grey and insignia white. No clear coat needed since its semi-gloss. You can oil wash right on top of it and decal.

Extra decals used - Gundam Decal Set vol 6

[Vifam7]

Thanks for the very detailed instructions, but I am lost in one step: FUTURE...I don't even know what that's supposed to look like here (Hong Kong), I remember there was a page with the different brands and names the polish goes by, but in any case, I haven't used it ever.

Is it possible to decal, panel with gundam "oil based" marker", clear coat and assemble (the "shell")?

I am planning to only clear coat the outer shell, and leave the skeleton alone, except maybe some of the joints like arms, legs, hands and head laser.

I heard there are problems with gundam markers and enamel based clear coats (water based marker+enamel based rattle can=disaster?). Somebody else (can't remember who at this point) had used a rattle can to clear coat the model and said it was simple.

I am picturing myself doing the squeleton and the shell, sanding the seams, pulling them off, decal, panel line with gundam marker (oil based), let dry (one day? two?) and then clear coat with a can (the curvy contours are difficult to paint right? should I hold the can about 30 cm away from the parts?

Sorry for all these questions, but I am really not experienced and I stick to 1/72 VF-25s because the DX toy is too expensive for what it is...If there was a half-decent line art accurate and reasonably priced toy that does not vaporize in the box, I would willingly give up on these beautiful but fragile kits.

Thanks again to all experienced modellers for your imput, I hope I can complete the SMS squad sometime soon and share family pictures!

Regult -

Since you live in HK, the most popular clear coat used over there in Asia is Gunze's Top Coat (both gloss and flat versions available as spray cans). Gunze's Top Coat is acrylic based so it won't affect any paint underneath (including Gundam marker).

Edited April 25, 2009 by Vifam7

[regult]

Wow, thanks everybody for the detailed suggestions and photos. Makes my first attempt at the "F" like a bad joke, and it was hard to decal!

I will try to assemble the clean configuration Ozma sometime before going for the others. I am glad this discussion is going into more details regarding model making than other sidelines and diversions!

[protostar8]

Okay. So I'm starting my Michael now. The Yellow marker I used worked great on the Luca, but the shade of purple I have looks horrible on a test piece of clear plastic trimmed off the parts tree.

So...What was the best overall paint/marker/anything method of coloring the cockpit a nice purple tent like in the photos? And are the paints/markers/etc usually available at a store like Michael's (it's the only store remotely close to me since the other hobby places shut down in my area)?

[Kyp Durron]

I noticed on the back of the instruction booklet, that where they list all the paints at the bottom of the page, that they have a shade of gray that matches the main molded plastic color. And while I can't read the Japanese, it says (100%) which means it is an actual paint color that you can buy.

It would be nice if any of you in Japan could translate that for me...*cough*OMGPRETTYPLEASEWITHSUGARONTOP*cough*

-Kyp

[SVF-Gerwalk]

+1

Would be nice have a translated color guide for Macross frontier valkyries.

Scan from guide:

[Vifam7]

+1

Would be nice have a translated color guide for Macross frontier valkyries.

Scan from guide:

I think someone translated late this a little while back.

If not, I could do it. I could post up the translation later tonight if needed.

[westfall]

I think someone translated late this a little while back.

If not, I could do it. I could post up the translation later tonight if needed.

I don't think it has, but even if it has, taking into acount the amount of pages in this thread and the ones before it, if you could post a new translation here, it would be very much apreciated. I thank you in advance.

Edited April 26, 2009 by westfall

[Kyp Durron]

I think someone translated late this a little while back.

If not, I could do it. I could post up the translation later tonight if needed.

Yes, it's VERY MUCH needed, thanks!!

-Kyp

[Vifam7]

Okay, here it is. The translation of the paint color guide of Bandai's Alto VF-25 -

Starting from left side

1st ROW

WHITE COLOR PART OF MAIN BODY

White (100%) +

neutral gray (small amount) +

clear gray (small amount)

BLACK COLOR PART OF MAIN BODY

Black (100%)

RED COLOR PART OF MAIN BODY

Shine red (60%) +

Orange (40%) +

White (small amount)

2nd ROW

BLUE-GRAY COLOR PART OF FRAME

Neutral gray (95%) +

Midnight blue (5%)

DARK GRAY COLOR PART OF NECK AREA , KNIFE HANDLE

Dark gray (100%)

BROWN COLOR SECTION OF ANKLE

Khaki (45%) +

Olive drab (45%) +

Dark gray (10%)

3rd ROW

PURPLE COLOR PART OF GUNPOD

Violet (90%) +

Neutral gray (10%)

BROWN COLOR PART OF GUNPOD

Red-Brown (80%) +

Neutral gray (15%) +

Tire black (5%)

GREEN COLOR PART OF GUNPOD

Flourescent green (100%)

4th ROW

CREAM YELLOW COLOR PART OF WING ROOTS

White (60%) +

Cream yellow (40%)

GRAY COLOR PART OF HEAD, COCKPIT, KNIFE

Neutral gray (100%)

BLUE-GRAY COLOR PART OF COCKPIT

RLM Gray 75 (90%) +

Violet (10%)

5th ROW

CLEAR GREEN COLOR PART OF HEAD

Clear green (100%)

LIGHT GRAY COLOR PART OF KNIFE BLADE

Gull gray (100%)

CLEAR PURPLE COLOR PART OF CANOPY, ALTO’S VISOR

Clear blue (25%) +

Clear red (20%) +

Clear (55%)

6th ROW

WHITE COLOR PART OF ALTO

White (100%) +

Violet (small amount)

BLUE COLOR PART OF ALTO

Violet (95%) +

Cobalt blue (5%)

GRAY COLOR PART OF ALTO

RLM Dark Gray 74 (100%)

7th ROW

RED COLOR PART OF ALTO

Shine Red (60%) +

Pink (40%) +

Violet (small amount)

YELLOW COLOR PART OF ALTO

Yellow (100%)

Edited April 26, 2009 by Vifam7

[Kyp Durron]

Can you translate the one for Ozma's too?

-Kyp

[alfye]

Okay, here it is. The translation of the paint color guide of Bandai's Alto VF-25 -

[/indent]

OOOOOh!!! Thank you Vifam7!!!

Since i´m in MWI don´t remember some translation like this!!!

+100 for you

[Vifam7]

Can you translate the one for Ozma's too?

-Kyp

I don't have the Ozma kit. If someone posts a scan of the color guide, I'll do it.