honkhet Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 nice job at the tiniting, general chaos, keep up the good work! i tinted all my valk cockpits in smoke grey, but purple or blue definitely looks good on alto Does anyone know a good place to get this or a good type or brand since I am not having much luck in finding either? Hi Dex, the brand i am using is "Mr. Hobby" i'll take a photo of the paint products that i use when i get home from work, 8 hours later meanwhile, i'd like to eat my own words regarding the gerwalk mode with super parts. it is possible, no cheating required! Bandai were not lying when they said its a 3 mode variable kit seen here, again all the clear coat on the joints are doing the magic. guess when it comes to kits, no one else but yourself is in charge of the QC. i want to say to all those assembling their kits right now, do your very best, and you will definitely reap the rewards no cheating this time!
General Chaos Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 Nice job at tinting that canopy. It looks sweet. Just 2 questions: 1 - What type and brand ink did you use? 2 - Did you use the decals or stickers? Any way, nice job. VERY nice. Cheers for the compliments guys 1. For the ink I used "Violet" Drawing ink. It's made in Australia by "Educational Colours" so you you will no doubt have to find an alternative if you want to play. Here is a link to a site that sells it with some details: http://www.artsupplies.com.au/index.php?ma...products_id=386 2. I used the stickers. decals still scare me, though I'm going to have to man up if I get a Luca.
mickyg Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 Alrighty, been lurking WAY too long here! Time to ask a question - General Chaos, I take it you're in Australia? You did mention previously that you used this drawing ink with Future right? I can't find a source for the stuff and have been experimenting with some substitutes (Pascoe's Long Life). I'm not really liking the results (not as clear as Future and it seems kinda brittle). Anyway, did you actually use Future or something else? I ask because your tint looks great and I'm hoping to achieve the same look with my VF-25G. Fantastic work by everyone that's shared their pics - really gives those of us holding off something to look forward to and a bit of confidence to go for it as well!
General Chaos Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 (edited) Alrighty, been lurking WAY too long here! Time to ask a question - General Chaos, I take it you're in Australia? You did mention previously that you used this drawing ink with Future right? I can't find a source for the stuff and have been experimenting with some substitutes (Pascoe's Long Life). I'm not really liking the results (not as clear as Future and it seems kinda brittle). Anyway, did you actually use Future or something else? I ask because your tint looks great and I'm hoping to achieve the same look with my VF-25G. Fantastic work by everyone that's shared their pics - really gives those of us holding off something to look forward to and a bit of confidence to go for it as well! Yep I'm in Australia. I actually didn't use Future but the closest Australian substitute which is called "Pledge One Go" I found this in Coles. Here's a link shamelessly ripped out of the previous thread which explains it well and documents the different namings and brands from around the world. http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html Edited April 15, 2009 by General Chaos
mickyg Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 (edited) Start OT: I actually already had that page open, just to check that my version was actually "long life" and not the other one. Been looking for "one go" and can't find it anywhere in Melbourne. I'm guessing you're not in Victoria? End OT: Keep the photos coming everyone! Loving the G coverage too! Edited April 15, 2009 by mickyg
edwin3060 Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 honkhet: So clear coat on the joints is absolutely necessary for a proper gerwalk mode?
honkhet Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 definitely, the joints need to be tightened somewhat... clear coat is one way to do it, and its working for me so far maybe someone knows a better way? if you make the effort to tighten every joint (but dont overdo it), not only do you get a gerwalk mode, but u get a rather sturdy toy overall. notice in my picture of the sniping pose, the wings stay up very well despite the weight of the boosters:
electric indigo Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 Have we already been through the hairpulling and wailing about the price of the Armored Ozma? Which is 8000 Yen - urgh.
Cent Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 Considering how cool it looks and how much extra plastic it comes with? Probably has its own stand too. I'm not surprised by the price tag, and would still gladly buy one.
Master Dex Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 Will the armor packs for Ozma be sold separately like the super packs? If so that is all I need to know since I already have Ozma. Also to anyone who may know, is this a good clear coat to go for? The only good seeming one I've found in stock somewhere (seriously, I am finding it difficult to find this stuff, must be searching wrong): http://www.megahobby.com/index.asp?PageAct...amp;ProdID=9439
Master Dex Posted April 15, 2009 Posted April 15, 2009 this is the stuff that i used: Thanks honkhet, that was very helpful, I found a bunch of Mr. Color products after searching. I couldn't find that exact same one, yours in Mr. Color 182. The closest I could find is 181 which is a Semi-Gloss Super Clear. Do you think it will matter if I am just using it for joints if it is semi-gloss and not flat? Also do you recommend the retarder? Looks like it would help in making the clear coat application a bit more even.
honkhet Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 yeah, i think thr should be no diff between semi-gloss or flat i really recommend using the retarder altho its a bit more costly without the retarder, the paint on your brush will dry up very fast
honkhet Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 here are the joints that i recommend to be applied clear coat for tightening i managed to attain gerwalk mode with super vf-25 by doing this, and gone are the days when my super vf-25 robot mode was "barely standing" the rest is up to you optionally, you may tighten the hip armor here and remove this tab, and you wont need to remove leg armor everytime you transform it.
Master Dex Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 (edited) Nice, thanks. Those parts of the swing bars are ones I knew I would have to coat because those are the ones that are the biggest problems on my VF-25S, rarely I can't get gerwalk to fold because of those. As for the rest, thanks for the note. On the panel on the leg piece, probably a good idea, I am not even sure why it is there in the first place really. It seems to be so the feet don't accidentally slide in or out but the mechanism for them seem to be strong enough to hold themselves so I don't see a problem, and if you have removed it and everything still works fine then it must not matter too much. Edited April 16, 2009 by Master Dex
Zeropioneer Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 (edited) I finished my Alto over the weekend and took a snap of my canopy that I tinted using a mixture of Future and purple drawing ink (sourced from an art store). I'm quite pleased with my results. The action base stand seems to be doing a good job of holding it up too. A little wobbly if you mess around with it but still well balanced. Definately want to do a Super Michael and stock Luca to go along with my Ozma and Alto now. Damn these things come up well even by a n00b like me. Whoa, it looks really nice! I took a couple of pics of mine, I wanted to post them a few days ago, but the damn cable for the digicam was missing... I just want to mention that I didn't use future, just purple chinese ink dilluted in water. Here are the pics: Edited April 16, 2009 by Zeropioneer
macross1979 Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 this is the stuff that i used: Retarder eh?!?
Vince Posted April 16, 2009 Posted April 16, 2009 Retarder eh?!? it slow the drying time, the paint runs and little more, reduce brush marks and produce smoother results. add to Gunze Mr. Color only. used to love the stuff when I was a kid couldn't air brush a lot of time.
MR_Hyde Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 Shot a couple of coats of Future on Ozma yesterday. Next step is decaling and panel lining with some Windsor-Newton Payne's Gray, followed by a couple of coats of DullCote- hopefully that will get done Monday or Tuesday. I'll post pics when I get the decals on. I will say this, Future shot out of an airbrush dries beautifully.
miriya Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 some pics for the day That pose is really well done. I think my VF-25 has some articulation problems. I know I do.
alfye Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 some pics for the day Great pose!!! More VF-25G coverage This weekend i´ll take better fighter, gerwalk & battroid pics
honkhet Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 thanks miriya Great pose!!! More VF-25G coverage This weekend i´ll take better fighter, gerwalk & battroid pics great pics alfye vf-25 is beautiful in this pic, shooting off for a mission "code victor"
honkhet Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 noticed ur vf-25g white stripes are really bright, alfye my guess is that they're water slide decals? well done man
alfye Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 Thanks honkhet! I´ve used water decals and MrSofter, then 2 matte topcoats. But i made mistakes applying a lot of softerner: Notice that Mikhail´s VF-25 SuperParts are under construction
westfall Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 (edited) On the subject of the VF-25Gs blue sticker for the landing gear area, contrary to my belief, in the few instances in wich i actually managed to observe the underside of the plane in the anime, that section is blue, contradicting some of the lineart. I justify this with the fact that the existant lineart was made in the pre-production phase, so some alterations may have been done when the animation was actually produced. But a foil sticker doesn't seem to be the right way to go. I'll either paint the part or go with the lineart color scheme and leave it white. I would have taken some screencaps but my PC recently crashed and i can't get my screencap program to... well, screencap. The best shots that i've found were in episodes 4, 9, 14 and 25. Edited April 18, 2009 by westfall
westfall Posted April 18, 2009 Posted April 18, 2009 Here's a small update on my VF-25F. I spent last week at my hometown so i haven't made much progress but now that i'm back and have 2 more weeks vacation time, i'll try to get some work done. Anyway, i painted the cockpit part and fitted the pilot to it. I took some license with the coloring but i'm quite happy with the result. After it was snaped into place it looks even better. I tinted the canopy but it ended up with some streaking so i'll strip the paint and redo it. Here's the progress pics:
alfye Posted April 18, 2009 Posted April 18, 2009 (edited) As I had promised... VF-25G Messiah Michael Custom coverage, Fighter pics: Edited April 19, 2009 by alfye
alfye Posted April 18, 2009 Posted April 18, 2009 (edited) VF-25G Messiah Michael Custom coverage, Gerwalk pics: Edited April 19, 2009 by alfye
alfye Posted April 18, 2009 Posted April 18, 2009 (edited) VF-25G Messiah Michael Custom coverage, Battroid pics (with some damaged decals caused by Gerwalk mode ): Edited April 19, 2009 by alfye
miriya Posted April 19, 2009 Posted April 19, 2009 How does one obtain a Sound blasters speaker and ranka accessory kit for Michael for the 1/72 kit?
honkhet Posted April 20, 2009 Posted April 20, 2009 VF-25G Messiah Michael Custom coverage, Battroid pics (with some damaged decals caused by Gerwalk mode ): nice pics alfye makes me wanna remove the super parts from my mikhail, really, the model kit is a fine and sturdy toy without the super packs i also need to get my ass cracking and get on doing those water slide decals
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