Model Kit Pen/Ink Lining

[satinblack]

Hey guys,

just got my very first of macross model kit.

Macross Frontier VF25 Alto Custom with fast pack.

I got a question, after looking through the kit, i notice there are some hard to reach sections for panel lining, i usually use Gundam GM02 marker. But it seems some sections are kinda impossible.

May i ask how should i go about it ? Mind sharingsome tips ?

Oh yea i got a few of this paints i usually use for painting model kits.

Tamiya acrylic paints

Citadel (games-workshop) paint

much help appreciated

Edited March 16, 2009 by satinblack

[edwin3060]

Hey guys,

just got my very first of macross model kit.

Macross Frontier VF25 Alto Custom with fast pack.

I got a question, after looking through the kit, i notice there are some hard to reach sections for panel lining, i usually use Gundam GM02 marker. But it seems some sections are kinda impossible.

May i ask how should i go about it ? Mind sharingsome tips ?

Oh yea i got a few of this paints i usually use for painting model kits.

Tamiya acrylic paints

Citadel (games-workshop) paint

much help appreciated

When you strip the model down for painting, panel-line it as well before re-assembling it?

[satinblack]

Usually i assemble them up then only panel line them. I was thinking of using Mr.Colour as was recommended by a friend.

I was told that i would need to use thinner with Mr.Colour. My question is which thinner would suit panel lining best ? MR.Thinner or Leveling thinner ?

And also what would the ratio be ? 1:2 ? 1:3?

Also what should i use to wash the excess ink ? i was advised that i can use zippo fluid for enamel/acrylic paints, is it true ?

Lastly, how would it affect my paint/model kit if my sequence are as per below :

1. Tamiya Surface Primer (Fine)

2. Base Paint (tamiya spray cans,tamiya acrylic paint,citadel paint)

3. Mr.Super Clear (Glossy)

4. Panel Lining ?? <-- How would the choice of thinner/paint affect me here ?

5. Decals

6. Mr.Super Clear (Flat)

much help is appreciated

[stormcrow77]

This is really stupid but if you have a wal-mart or hobby store

buy some acrylic paint. I did this with no prep and it was more of an experiment.

Brush the black acrylic onto the model, covering the section you want to have panel lines on.

Let it dry for a couple of minutes.

Then take a cloth or paper towel and gently wipe the black acrylic off.

Water and alchohol will remove any goof ups completly. and you can just redo it.

It leaves really good panel lines.

I compared it with the build up on the forums (the one that used a gundam pen for every line

working inches at a time) and the "lines" I was producing looked the same as his.

Of course this technique would not work, if you use primer and re-paint the pieces.

This did not seem necessary with this model to me since everything was molded in color.

Hey guys,

just got my very first of macross model kit.

Macross Frontier VF25 Alto Custom with fast pack.

I got a question, after looking through the kit, i notice there are some hard to reach sections for panel lining, i usually use Gundam GM02 marker. But it seems some sections are kinda impossible.

May i ask how should i go about it ? Mind sharingsome tips ?

Oh yea i got a few of this paints i usually use for painting model kits.

Tamiya acrylic paints

Citadel (games-workshop) paint

much help appreciated

[satinblack]

ic...thanks for the advice then, shall give it a try and see how things go....

[mrsmithz]

Here is my suggestion. It seems that you are going to paint the entire thing and all the steps are right.

In this setup what I suggest that you use turpanoid instead of lighter fluid.

For an oil wash use basic oil paint from an art store and pickup turpanoid. Turpanoid is oderless and will work as well as lighter fluid and or plain old turpentine. Turpanoid has the added benifit of not being as harsh and no nasty smell.

U can use Mr Super clear, but I just use future to clear coat the entire kit after the paint has been left to try at least 48 hours. Tamiya sprays will cure rather quickly (10 min dry to touch) but I would wait 48 hours before touching it (clear coat).

You also need to let the clear coat cure completely 48 hours for mr super... 24 hours for future.

For the wash I usually do about 1:8 oil to turpanoid mixture. If its too light add a dab more of paint.

With a fine brush dip a very little ammount and light dip it on the panel line. Wait about an hour and use a lightly dabbed cloth with turpanoid to clear the excess off. Qtips or papertowels work well too.

The thing is turpentine/lighterfluid/turpanoid WILL eat through the clear coat. I've tested tamiya clear coat, future and mr super... and it was all stripped if you apply too much wash.

So the trick is lightly dab, and use the weakest thinner you can find.

[MR_Hyde]

Hi all,

I'm a huge rookie here but I could use some help. I ordered the 1/72 Bandai VF-25S model kit from HLJ and the 1/60 Ozma. I have done lots of panel lines over the years but I'm not so sure about these transforming Valk's. I usually shoot a coat of Future, decal, wash, then shoot a coat of acrylic topcoat over the whole kit to seal it all up. I normally do this after the kit is assembled. Will this affect the transformation process on the model kit? Would this process work on the 1/60 scale too? I hear about scratching paint and I don't want to see any of those lovely markings go bye-bye.

Satinblack, I hope this doesn't hijack your thread- just saw that you and I had the same questions.

Thanks!