1/60 Hikaru Yellowing!!!

[ychanus]

I have it in fighter mode (gear up), place on a flat wooden surface. Since it is in a little angle carrying the gunpod. The side that close to the wooden surface has yellowed. The rack has NO sunlight to it directly. I just don't know what's going on and I'm also displaying my 1/48 this way. Anybody know how to cure the yellowing and prevention.

Please help..

[Draykov]

I have it in fighter mode (gear up), place on a flat wooden surface. Since it is in a little angle carrying the gunpod. The side that close to the wooden surface has yellowed. The rack has NO sunlight to it directly. I just don't know what's going on and I'm also displaying my 1/48 this way. Anybody know how to cure the yellowing and prevention.

Please help..

It's part of Yamato's evil plot to sell you another 1/60 VF-1A. The 1/48s are scheduled to disentigrate completely some time in 2008.

Sorry dude. I'm not sure what to tell you, other than to smoke your Marlboro Reds outside. I noticed that one of the hands from my Hikaru 1A was lookin' a little yellow recently, but I didn't notice anything on the Valk itself.

You might check out this thread: Plastic turning yellow, any way to stop it?

Edited November 7, 2003 by Draykov

[ychanus]

The thing is that I don't even smoke at all, and it is nowhere close to the kitchen or dinning room

I'm very much pissed, as it is ONLY a 1 year old toy.

Will a clear coat spray prevent it from yellowing??

Any tips on fixing it too?

[Draykov]

Well, you may have had it a year, but it was probably produced more like 2 or 3 years ago. I was just kidding about the Marlboros.

It may be a problem distinct to the 1/60 Hikaru VF-1A. It was molded with a lighter colored plastic than the 1S and 1A Max. Again, though, I don't particularly notice anything going on with mine. I don't think there is a lot you can do to reverse the effect short of repainting it yourself. Clear coating a yellow Valk certainly won't do anything (accept maybe slow down the process) and I don't know that that will be too effective.

[Beware of Blast]

Both my 1/60 and 1/48 Hikaru have turned yellow as well. I've tried cleaning them with a damp cloth with a little soap water, but to no avail. The yellowing on my 1/48 Hikaru however, is not as annoying as the 1/60 though, this is because all the white plastic parts on it are evenly yellowed.

The 1/60 is a complete color Frankenstein!

1/60 Hikaru VF1A, "Sniff... BoB calls me a color Frankenstein... Sob!"

1/48 Hikaru VF1A, "There, there..."

Edited November 7, 2003 by Beware of Blast

[ychanus]

I wonder if we can use bleach... Anyone try it? I guess it could make it even more yellow..

I remember in the old board about a year ago, a guy found something that you can soak the part into some kind of liquid and it will turn back to white. Anyone remember? I didn't have this problem back then, so I forgot to save the instruction.

[Beware of Blast]

I know there are teeth-whitening gels out in the market, for people (smokers usually) to clean their yellowed teeth. If that works for teeth, maybe it will work miracles for plastic. This might be worth a try. But it will be expensive I think.

[ewilen]

Doesn't it all depend on the source of yellowing? If the yellowing is from a surface deposit, that's one thing. If it's from a change in the actual material, that's quite different. You might be able to clean off a surface deposit, or even a deposit that's gotten into the "pores" of the underlying material, using an appropriate solvent (maybe water) or detergent. If the plastic and/or paint has changed chemically, you'd have to either scrape off the top layer or reverse the chemical process.

[justvinnie]

all plastic yellows over time. It is inevitable. The rate of yellowing can be controlled however. Sunlight isn't that bad. Fluorescent lighting is worse, but in the end ALL forms of lighting will induce yellowing. To make yellowing slow to a crawl you could lock it up in a dark closet never to be seen again. Even then it will still yellow, albeit extremely slowly. The only one true way to stop yellowing? To lock your valk in a light proof chest and flood it with nitrogen or any of the inert gases...

The good thing is that the yellowing is a surface effect, meaning that any surface that is exposed to light and air gets oxidized and yellows, but only on the surface. That's why any type of abrasion will get rid of yellowing. Many of the "whitening" compounds will also work by fully oxidizing the plastic. Problem with this is that if the piece you are working with is thin, it'll make it pretty brittle.

Clear coating the plastic will protect the valk against air oxidation but not UV. I'm sure it'll help against UV to some degree but unless your clear coat totally absorbs UV (akin to sunblock) the plastic can still yellow.

vinnie

[wingcommander]

I display all my valks on plastic shelves and I have had no yellowing at all. If you don't smoke or no one else smokes you think it might be the wood you have it on. We had a problem with the jungle gyms in florida having chemicals getting into the soil. They do treat wood with some nasty stuff.

Just me two cents

ALEX

[Zentrandude]

crest would make a killing if they produce a supline of the whitestrips but call it valkstrips. those things work but proly melt the valk thou.

[hirohawa]

My 1/60 hikaru has yellowed also. The head and the biceps only. I am painting them white and then i am going to spray all my valks with a UV resistant spray acrylic that I bought from an art store.

Good luck

[justvinnie]

My 1/60 hikaru has yellowed also. The head and the biceps only. I am painting them white and then i am going to spray all my valks with a UV resistant spray acrylic that I bought from an art store.

Good luck

really? What is the stuff called? That should definitely prevent yellowing.

vinnie

[Godzilla]

I would be interested in it as well.

[vf-24]

one possible reason for the yellowing could be the oils from our hands from handling them. I've had this happen to my old bandai valk. haven't touched it for years until recently and found out that my valk was turning yellow. and the majority of the yellow was coming from the areas where i mostly touched it. the same goes for my old 1977 Star Wars figures. so it could be a possiblity that your valk is turning yellow due to oil resdue if not from anything else.

[JB0]

one possible reason for the yellowing could be the oils from our hands from handling them. I've had this happen to my old bandai valk. haven't touched it for years until recently and found out that my valk was turning yellow. and the majority of the yellow was coming from the areas where i mostly touched it. the same goes for my old 1977 Star Wars figures. so it could be a possiblity that your valk is turning yellow due to oil resdue if not from anything else.

Is it the oil yellowing, or the plastic is being damaged by the oil?

My experience with yellowing is limited to an SNES deck that was restored with a washcloth with rubbing alcohol splashed on it.

[vf-24]

Is it the oil yellowing, or the plastic is being damaged by the oil?

plastic being damaged by the oils on the fingers causing the plastic to yellow over time. A lot of toy collectors who have experienced this have suggested to wipe your collectibles with a cloth before storing your collectibles for a long time. This is especially true on some diecast car collectibles. with the SW toys I mentioned above, part of it was because of the type of plastic, part was oils, and part was because of the paint that kenner used to use back then...but that's another discussion entirely. But this is just one possibility out of many that could cause the yellowing.

[valkyrietestpilot]

i know it won't help the current problem,but when displaying valks i think it would help to tape a piece of car window tint over the window in the front of the box to prevent yellowing.most of these films are designed to filter out u.v. & other harmfull rays & prevent damage to your car interior.it would make it harder to see the valk,but it would save your investment in the long run & the tape wouldn't harm anything on the inside of the box.

[Skull-1]

Guys, UV light is 99% of what causes plastic to yellow. I've done experiments upon experiments with this very phenomenon. It all boils down to light. Even indirect light is enough to cause yellowing, albeit at a slower rate.

It's light light light light light.

[Uxi]

Well so far, my Max and Roy 1/60 are ok... well not counting the Roy's leg stripe chipping...

[blugts]

HEHEHE. YELLOWING......IT"S LIKE TRYING TO CHEAT DEATH!!!!!!!!

[Pat Payne]

My Max 1A has no yellowing, but my CF is...waaaaaaaaait a minute

[hirohawa]

The spray is:

Krylon UV resistant Matte finish 1309 and

Krylon UV resistant Acrylic caoting 1305.

I bought both of them at a local art store. I am not sure if the Matte finish is acrylic.

Edited November 8, 2003 by hirohawa

[recon]

Thats scary thought to think about especially when we have put in huge amounts for the 1/60 1/72 and 1/48 series that we collect.

Maybe we should wear surgical gloves when handling our 1/60s , 1/72s and 1/48s. Anyone had any ideas what cause yellowing besides UV, oxidaization and oils from our hands? Thanks i would be interested to know more. Thanks

Hey toonz, if you are looking at this thread, have you valks start to yellow? I guess this problem of yellowing is worse especially in a hot and humid country like Singapore.

Cheers

[Toonz]

all my bandai reissues are still in perfect condition

and as for my 1/60 VF-1, the only slight yellowing that i see is on my 1A hikaru legs.

the 1/48 are still ok. no yellowing.

[vf-24]

Thats scary thought to think about especially when we have put in huge amounts for the 1/60 1/72 and 1/48 series that we collect.

Maybe we should wear surgical gloves when handling our 1/60s , 1/72s and 1/48s. Anyone had any ideas what cause yellowing besides UV, oxidaization and oils from our hands? Thanks i would be interested to know more. Thanks

I guess this problem of yellowing is worse especially in a hot and humid country like Singapore.

Cheers

Well I wouldn't go that far into using surgical gloves. I know you're kidding but if someone out there is seriously thinking of doing that, that almost kinda defeats the purpose of owning one. In that case, you might as well not take it out of the box. But feel free to do what you want with your valk, after all it is your valk.

Anyways, there are a host of reasons why the plastics turn yellow. I think everything that everyone has mentioned could be the cause...oils, uv, humidity, etc but I don't believe that it is just one thing that causes it. We'll probably never find out.

Doesn't hurt to keep theorizing. Keep the suggestions comin'!

Edited November 8, 2003 by vf-24

[indigofx28]

it's in the air

[Mechamaniac]

Here's what worked for me...It successfully un-yellowed the head of my old Jetfire.

It's a recently released household cleaning sponge.

MR. CLEAN MAGIC ERASER

Not sure how it works, but I have used it to clean scratches out of a linoleum floor that I could not get despite scrubbing repeatedly. It is this strange little white sponge like material that you wet, and then rub on the surface.

[Bub]

all plastic yellows over time. It is inevitable. The rate of yellowing can be controlled however. Sunlight isn't that bad. Fluorescent lighting is worse, but in the end ALL forms of lighting will induce yellowing. To make yellowing slow to a crawl you could lock it up in a dark closet never to be seen again. Even then it will still yellow, albeit extremely slowly. The only one true way to stop yellowing? To lock your valk in a light proof chest and flood it with nitrogen or any of the inert gases...

The good thing is that the yellowing is a surface effect, meaning that any surface that is exposed to light and air gets oxidized and yellows, but only on the surface. That's why any type of abrasion will get rid of yellowing. Many of the "whitening" compounds will also work by fully oxidizing the plastic. Problem with this is that if the piece you are working with is thin, it'll make it pretty brittle.

Clear coating the plastic will protect the valk against air oxidation but not UV. I'm sure it'll help against UV to some degree but unless your clear coat totally absorbs UV (akin to sunblock) the plastic can still yellow.

vinnie

In other words, our Valks are DOOMED from the begining.

...... <_< Wait a minute. Why am I smiling? "doomed from the begining"? That's not funny. <_<

[Bub]

Here's what worked for me...It successfully un-yellowed the head of my old Jetfire.

It's a recently released household cleaning sponge.

MR. CLEAN MAGIC ERASER

Not sure how it works, but I have used it to clean scratches out of a linoleum floor that I could not get despite scrubbing repeatedly. It is this strange little white sponge like material that you wet, and then rub on the surface.

Mr. Clean eh? I wonder if we have something the same in this side of the world.

[valkyrietestpilot]

funny thing is,when dupont originally made plastic,it was supposed to last forever.i guess finishes & colors are light years behind in that department.our valks will always be here even if their finishes deteriorate <_

[dodiano]

Sorry to hear that about your toy !!

[1 VF-1 2NV]

Just noticed my 1/60 hikaru is yellowing by the air intake, landing gear door, and chest plate. Funny thing is, it has been stored in my bedroom closet in its box for the last year. What gives? Anyone else noticed too. Hope my 1/48's do not yellow too .

[Godzilla]

Could be the temperature. That has an effect as well.

[promethuem5]

Man, you guys are gonna make me go rip apart my 1/60 GBP to checka nd see if my 1A Max is yellowing now....