GU-11 Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 No, the nub is not covered and I don't see any way to cover it with the top part. I think you'll just have to go with painting it. Thanks, MacrossJunkie. BTW, is it possible to "mix" colors using Gundam Markers (as in mixing ink taken from a red and yellow Gundam marker)? I don't think they sell orange Gundam markers individually, and I don't want t buy the whole marker set for just that one color, which I'll only use a drop of. Quote
MacrossJunkie Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) Thanks, MacrossJunkie. BTW, is it possible to "mix" colors using Gundam Markers (as in mixing ink taken from a red and yellow Gundam marker)? I don't think they sell orange Gundam markers individually, and I don't want t buy the whole marker set for just that one color, which I'll only use a drop of. I think you'd be better off buying some orange paint that looks close to the orange of the heat shield. As for gundam markers, if you're talking about the ink kind, I don't think they'd blend well. For the paint markers you could theoretically mix the paints, but I don't think it would be a good idea and it probably wouldn't turn out well. If you want to attempt it with gundam paint markers, you'll want to pre-mix the paint so you get the right shade before you actually apply it and to do that, you'll have to pull out the tip of the marker and dab some paint from the other end of the plastic insert of the paint marker on some plastic wrap or foil and mix them with a brush. Getting the right shade will likely be difficult to attain. You will likely need to throw in some white as well. Edit: I just remembered that there was a person in this thread, Negotiator, that had the orange stripes on the leg missing and painted it himself. He mentions Cadmium orange and the result looked very close. You may want to just buy the paint and save yourself the trouble of having to mix gundam marker paints. Edited December 13, 2010 by MacrossJunkie Quote
GU-11 Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 I think you'd be better off buying some orange paint that looks close to the orange of the heat shield. As for gundam markers, if you're talking about the ink kind, I don't think they'd blend well. For the paint markers you could theoretically mix the paints, but I don't think it would be a good idea and it probably wouldn't turn out well. If you want to attempt it with gundam paint markers, you'll want to pre-mix the paint so you get the right shade before you actually apply it and to do that, you'll have to pull out the tip of the marker and dab some paint from the other end of the plastic insert of the paint marker on some plastic wrap or foil and mix them with a brush. Getting the right shade will likely be difficult to attain. You will likely need to throw in some white as well. Edit: I just remembered that there was a person in this thread, Negotiator, that had the orange stripes on the leg missing and painted it himself. He mentions Cadmium orange and the result looked very close. You may want to just buy the paint and save yourself the trouble of having to mix gundam marker paints. You, sir, are a life saver! It it's at all possible, could you tell me what brand of spray/paint I can find this particular color of orange? I scoured the hardware stores in my neighborhood, going through the aisles of Krylon and Pylox, and the closest I could find (based on the color on the cap) was Tangerine and Light Scarlett from Pylox. The hobby store's pretty far, so I'll have to make sure I can find that particular color in the form or Tamiya or GSI paints before I go there. Quote
MacrossJunkie Posted December 13, 2010 Posted December 13, 2010 You, sir, are a life saver! It it's at all possible, could you tell me what brand of spray/paint I can find this particular color of orange? I scoured the hardware stores in my neighborhood, going through the aisles of Krylon and Pylox, and the closest I could find (based on the color on the cap) was Tangerine and Light Scarlett from Pylox. The hobby store's pretty far, so I'll have to make sure I can find that particular color in the form or Tamiya or GSI paints before I go there. I don't know honestly. This was the info in his post: I'm too impatient so went to the craft store for some cheap $1 paint. Couldn't find any orange trim sticker because that would have been much better. Luckily found this cadmium orange which looks like a pretty close match, but anyway, here's what my afternoon consisted of. You could try PM'ing him for details. Quote
GU-11 Posted December 14, 2010 Posted December 14, 2010 I don't know honestly. This was the info in his post: You could try PM'ing him for details. Thanks, I'll try that. Quote
wm cheng Posted May 20, 2012 Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) Hi all, Joined this party late... just got my very first VF-11B from that HLJ sale! I always wondered why it was more expensive than the other similar sized valkyries, but now I understand why - especially sweet when there was that sale on top. Has no one stickered up theirs and posted photos? Question, I plan on trying to scrunge up enough water slide decals to do this justice (unforunately, I think I'll have to make up the NEW EDWARS T.F.C ones - is it supposed to be NEW EDWARDS - did the Japanese just mis-spelled it?) Second question is the NO STEP stenciling, on the Yamato toy stickers, they are red like all the other VF-1 but on the Hasegawa model, they are black. Is there any "canon" on who is right? Initial impression so far: -great sculpt for fighter mode (also great for battroid which is rare!) -that forward heat shield is a bitch! scratched the paint on that pull up nib - damn! -can't get the rear landing gears out without tweezers - sits a little low or squat -best display in-flight - wish there was a stand -overall grey colour is a bit too dark - it should contrast against the fast packs, not to blend into them Hmm, funny I love this toy so much, but most of the points seem negative, I think the overall shape trumps all these points! I'll just do a quick little oil wash, a bit of weathering and sealing with water slide decals and call it a day. Might re-paint the gunpod into something more a like a military olive though. Edited May 20, 2012 by wm cheng Quote
Chronocidal Posted May 20, 2012 Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) You know, I never understood the rear gear design on the VF-11.. the 1/60 I mean. You've got those tiny struts, and that big bay with two separate doors. The front gear doors do absolutely nothing, except making it look canon. You don't even need them open to lower the gear, since the pivot is completely behind that door. You could add a good centimeter or so to those gear if you just moved the pivot forward to the front of the bay. I just never use them, so you can't see how goofy they look. As for the NO STEP bits, color on those varies by paint scheme, so they stand out, but you rarely even see aircraft with them that clearly marked anyway. With low-vis markings, they're usually just a darker or lighter shade of gray. For the VF-11B, a lighter gray or even white might look good, though black would probably be fine. I don't know why they would use red really. It's probably a hold-over from 1970s high-vis navy markings, which I think did tend to use red markings. Edited May 20, 2012 by Chronocidal Quote
anime52k8 Posted May 20, 2012 Posted May 20, 2012 You know, I never understood the rear gear design on the VF-11.. the 1/60 I mean. You've got those tiny struts, and that big bay with two separate doors. The front gear doors do absolutely nothing, except making it look canon. You don't even need them open to lower the gear, since the pivot is completely behind that door. You could add a good centimeter or so to those gear if you just moved the pivot forward to the front of the bay. I just never use them, so you can't see how goofy they look. they're like that because that's how they're supposed to look: Quote
Chronocidal Posted May 20, 2012 Posted May 20, 2012 Oh, I know, they definitely got the look right, but the gear are mounted way too far back. Like I said, the pivot point on the 1/60 is clear behind that front door, so the front door doesn't need to open at all. If the pivot was farther forward, there'd be room for a longer strut. As it is now, the main gear doors practically drag on the ground, and they definitely would if the plane tried to rotate on takeoff. Quote
Shaorin Posted May 20, 2012 Posted May 20, 2012 one of these beauties, either 11B or 11C, -really- needs to be my next Valk acquisition... Quote
anime52k8 Posted May 21, 2012 Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) Hi all, Joined this party late... just got my very first VF-11B from that HLJ sale! I always wondered why it was more expensive than the other similar sized valkyries, but now I understand why - especially sweet when there was that sale on top. Has no one stickered up theirs and posted photos? I stickered my up a while ago and now I'm posting photos. the The included stickers are pretty subtle but they add a nice touch. VF-11B Isamu Dyson Colors by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr VF-11B Isamu Dyson Colors by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr VF-11B Isamu Dyson Colors by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr Edited May 21, 2012 by anime52k8 Quote
boyarque Posted May 21, 2012 Posted May 21, 2012 Just a question; I stickered my VF-1S 1/48 a while ago, and I'm quite not satisfied with the quality, ie peeling off. Is the VF-11B stickers the same or different? Quote
sharpnel Posted May 24, 2012 Posted May 24, 2012 (edited) I have been looking at all the pics and now want to get one. What's the going price for VF-11B these days? Edited May 24, 2012 by sharpnel Quote
ps99042 Posted May 24, 2012 Posted May 24, 2012 I have been looking at all the pics and now want to get one. What's the going price for VF-11B these days? Funny you should ask this as I was just looking at prices on eBay to see if it's a good time to sell my extra VF-11B. They go for about $185 shipped on eBay at the moment. HLJ is about that price as well when they have a sale. You should definitely get one as it's one of the best Valks put out my Yamato and the design by Kawamori is still one of my favorites. Quote
BlueMax Posted May 24, 2012 Posted May 24, 2012 Just a question; I stickered my VF-1S 1/48 a while ago, and I'm quite not satisfied with the quality, ie peeling off. Is the VF-11B stickers the same or different? The 11B stickers should be closer to the ones the V2 VF-1s have... sticks on very well. Not easy to peel off even with long pair of fingernails Quote
boyarque Posted May 24, 2012 Posted May 24, 2012 thanks bluemax...might get it stickered up these few days... Quote
Scream Man Posted June 21, 2012 Posted June 21, 2012 U know what? I've just given up on the 11C ever being in robot form. i know how the lower shield is supposed to lock, and I also know it just refuses to on mine. Ive tried taking the cockpit out, Ive tried forcing it, wiggling it, whatever; NOTHING works! So top heck with it. Fighter forever! Quote
Swoosh Posted June 21, 2012 Posted June 21, 2012 Didn't like the under sized tail fin on the VF-11B, I decided to make one myself, took 30mins and cost less than a dollar. Not too bad if you view 50cm away from it Quote
ps99042 Posted June 21, 2012 Posted June 21, 2012 Swoosh, that looks great! Makes me love this bird even more... Quote
Lonewolf Posted June 21, 2012 Posted June 21, 2012 Those custom fins are really nice. Well done. Quote
Swoosh Posted June 22, 2012 Posted June 22, 2012 DId you use paper? Yes. Wow, yours is very similar to mine, but what I did is just print 2 block of color on A4 paper, draw the shape, cut and and glue them together: Quote
boyarque Posted June 22, 2012 Posted June 22, 2012 simple yet creative! Who says this hobby is only wasting money? Quote
Kurisama Posted June 24, 2012 Posted June 24, 2012 http://www.hlj.com/product/YMT00114 HLJ sale, VF-11B 50% off - GO GO GO! Quote
Mommar Posted June 24, 2012 Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) Holy crap, that's cheap! And it comes at the worst time when I have to spend at least $500 for other things. Edited June 24, 2012 by Mommar Quote
Ghostkiller Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 (edited) Hello guys ! The VF-11B is one of my favorite I really like the gerwalk mode but the leg articultation is bad with time the legs tend to bend outwards easily and the valkyrie just collapses so I found out a trick that is really simple in order to correct this weak point of the VF-11B you only need one thing : a 0.30 mm fishing wire (the wire must not be too big as you don't have much room to fit it inside) you do not have to dismantle the toy at all You must wrap the fishing line around the joint and pull very hard and make a knot tight. the fishing line will be hidden inside and your toy will take extreme poses! Edited July 7, 2012 by Ghostkiller Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 Looks great, but I wonder just how much more stress that would cause on the joint. Quote
Ghostkiller Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 (edited) Looks great, but I wonder just how much more stress that would cause on the joint. hello no stress I think, This is how yamato has designed the joint : a rubber part which touches the plastic part that connects the screw is suppossed to help the leg to stay in position so the articulation works from the inside with a bit of compression between the rubber and the plastic and that is why there is a small gap when you look from the outside my trick just fills the outside gap that you can see on my first pic... As long as you can turn it easily without more efforts, there is no stress I reckon Edited July 7, 2012 by Ghostkiller Quote
Kelsain Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 Ooh, nice. Right now my clear ex gear stand is lending a hand to my gerwalk. I'll have to try this! (null) Quote
anime52k8 Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 Honestly, it's not that hard to take the leg apart and I've got way more confidence in using super glue. VF-11 in pieces by Mike - drowning in plastic, on Flickr Quote
Ghostkiller Posted July 7, 2012 Posted July 7, 2012 well, it works fine too I guess but my method is easier my personnal confidence in superglue is 50/50 it tends to cracks when fully dried when pressure is applied... superglue on ball joints for exemple does make the job at the begining but if you move a lot the articulation it tends to get loose again with time... but I play too much with my valkyries I guess but its works Quote
Axelay Posted July 8, 2012 Posted July 8, 2012 Finally got one of these through the recent HLJ sale, and I couldn't be happier with it. One questions, though - when the FAST packs are attached in fighter mode, does the VF-11 have its tailfins extended or retracted? Quote
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