Bandai 1/72 VF-25S Ozma WIP

[kyekye]

As I commented in my earlier topic, I'll post my progress as I go this time.

Almost finished VF-25F - Basic mod

First of all, I'll introduce my frequently used tools.

• Mr. Hobby basic Pinvice set
• Pinvice for Smaller size drill bits
• Mini Drill bits
• Engraver/puncher
• Exacto Knife
• Line Engraver
• Dremel Motor tool
• Various Dremel bits
• mini file set

[kyekye]

Actually I already spent a couple of days on this kit. So I took some pictures of my progress.

Using the pinvice, I made the machinegun grill holes. These are angled, so you need to make holes at the each end and cut in between. I still need to sand them and make them clean, but these are quite small to sand nicely. I'll see what i can do..

I'm also going to replace the gun with metal parts. (I need some suggestion here. My last attempt with metal tube layers didn't look good enough)

With the same method, continue with gunpod parts and chest intake parts. For the chest intake, I'm using the same photo etching parts i used on my VF-25F (Alto's). It's already primed with metal primer.

Edited January 24, 2009 by kyekye

[Darth Mingus]

This is great. Looking forward to this. Will you be planning on adding the full armour parts eventually? You will need to be careful which parts you glue.

[kyekye]

This is great. Looking forward to this. Will you be planning on adding the full armour parts eventually? You will need to be careful which parts you glue.

Eventually, yes. Ozma VF-25S will look better with Armored Pack which is not announced yet. So I'll wait for that and prepare the kit for it.

For my VF-25F, I didn't glue most of parts yet for super pack which will come out sometime next month. Also I left some parts un-modified (such as gaps between parts) because I was afraid those might needed for Super pack.

We will see.

[kyekye]

My next mod is 'red lens' parts.

For Alto's, I only used it for chest piece, but Ozma's VF-25s, I used on 2 places.

One is the same chest piece, and the sencond is the head sensor.

First I cut out the shape and make a place for it from back of the parts using round dremel tip. It should be just enough for the lens to sit in but must not break the cut-out shape from outside.

I found this mini red glass parts at the craft shop. (ones that's used for decorating dolls and other girly stuff , i guess..)

Also this time, I added chest piece section detail with rivet holes (vs. edge line i had on my Alto's VF-25F ). I think this makes it more like airplane.

Head canon (or sensor?) is also drilled out and replaced with metal bead. All the parts are not glued yet since I gotta paint the parts sepaartely.

[kyekye]

Adding nose sensor details with metal bead (for top) and metal balls (for the side).

Cut holes for round Q parts detail upgrades and replace them with Kotobukiya option detail parts for deeper mold.

Adding magnets for tighter transform in fighter mode. I still need to do the other side of legs to lock them with arms.

[shiroikaze]

Ahhh! So those are those Kotobukiya option parts!

Anyway, how's the pull force on the magnets? Particularly the smaller set? Is it almost the same?

Edited January 25, 2009 by shiroikaze

[kyekye]

Ahhh! So those are those Kotobukiya option parts!

Anyway, how's the pull force on the magnets? Particularly the smaller set? Is it almost the same?

The neodymium magnets have grade numbers which represents their strength.

Here is quick info from the vender I buy from.

Neodymium Magnet Physical Properties

N50 and 52 are pretty strong and should be enough to hold the macross parts. They need to be aligned correctly (position-wise) to maximize the pull force. I recommend using 1/8" ones for the most parts. small ones (1/16") are only used for supporting.

I've used them for my VF-25F (same position as VF-25S), and they worked great.

[edwin3060]

The neodymium magnets have grade numbers which represents their strength.

Here is quick info from the vender I buy from.

Neodymium Magnet Physical Properties

N50 and 52 are pretty strong and should be enough to hold the macross parts. They need to be aligned correctly (position-wise) to maximize the pull force. I recommend using 1/8" ones for the most parts. small ones (1/16") are only used for supporting.

I've used them for my VF-25F (same position as VF-25S), and they worked great.

Hmm... the hip guns are still out of position though... I think its just a problem with the kit.

[Hikuro]

Even in the pro modeler builds that are photographed they're still slightly out of place on the hips, but they're not nearly as bad as what many of us have seen particularly with Alto's VF-25.

So what kyekye's got going on is a really good way of balancing the kit out and making it look very nice.

And all the added features just make the kit stand out even more, very cool mods.

[mojacko]

great work dude...wondering if the kit is kinda flimsy once transformed to batroid?

[SchizophrenicMC]

The neodymium magnets have grade numbers which represents their strength.

Here is quick info from the vender I buy from.

Neodymium Magnet Physical Properties

N50 and 52 are pretty strong and should be enough to hold the macross parts. They need to be aligned correctly (position-wise) to maximize the pull force. I recommend using 1/8" ones for the most parts. small ones (1/16") are only used for supporting.

I've used them for my VF-25F (same position as VF-25S), and they worked great.

I love K&J... I plan on getting some D-601s for a Nerf project. (Gears of War with a Longshot. Pull 'em off my back and start shooting )

How'd you adhere the magnets to the model?

[shiroikaze]

I love K&J... I plan on getting some D-601s for a Nerf project. (Gears of War with a Longshot. Pull 'em off my back and start shooting )

How'd you adhere the magnets to the model?

dremel holes the size of the magnets and glue them I suppose.

WM Cheng inspired this method I think:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...28142&st=20

I'm actually considering getting 3/16 x 1/32 and 1/8 x 1/32 magnets. But I haven't built my kit yet so I don't know for sure if the 3/16's will fit or not....

Edited January 26, 2009 by shiroikaze

[kyekye]

Hmm... the hip guns are still out of position though... I think its just a problem with the kit.

It seems like partially it IS due to the problem with the kit (specially Alto's). However, the thickness of the paint layers worsen the issue with that particular part piece. The joint mod I'm trying should fix the major fitting problem thou.

Even in the pro modeler builds that are photographed they're still slightly out of place on the hips, but they're not nearly as bad as what many of us have seen particularly with Alto's VF-25.

So what kyekye's got going on is a really good way of balancing the kit out and making it look very nice.

And all the added features just make the kit stand out even more, very cool mods.

Thanks for commenting on my defense Most pro-built hobby magazine images also show that particular problem. During multiple transform test I DID get the piece in right position a couple of times when the other pieces are perfectly fit in position. It happens somewhat random. The biggest issue i found was the length of hipgun joint. It's just 0.2-0.5mm short. The second problem (specially with Alto's) was that the joint pushes the part forward. Another 0.2-0.5mm.

So I sanded the the parts in 2 places (the edge right above the gun and another edge where meets the shoulder diamond part) and extended out the joint using aluminum rod and pinvice drill (1.5mm).

It does look like it can solve the problem . For now, I'll leave it un-glued so that the piece can slide a little bit up and down until I finish the pieces with decal and painting later.

[Hikuro]

HAH! I'll be damned, so it's possible Bandai just didn't make that part big enough or something. Son of a Basara.

[kyekye]

great work dude...wondering if the kit is kinda flimsy once transformed to batroid?

Suprisingly no. Joints and transform parts are quite tight. Only place (I think) needs some attention is the fin on the bottom. This part fits into the 'I' shape hole to form the pelvis. Whatever you do, DO NOT try to sand it to make it look like sharp fin. It needs to be that dumb shape.

[kyekye]

I love K&J... I plan on getting some D-601s for a Nerf project. (Gears of War with a Longshot. Pull 'em off my back and start shooting )

How'd you adhere the magnets to the model?

Man, some of these magnet type can actually hurt you....

Anyways, the best way to me is to drill the hole very tight using acurate size pinvice drill bits. All the magnet I put in places can stay without any use of glue. I might use 1/2 drop of crazy glue before painting.

dremel holes the size of the magnets and glue them I suppose.

WM Cheng inspired this method I think:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...28142&st=20

I'm actually considering getting 3/16 x 1/32 and 1/8 x 1/32 magnets. But I haven't built my kit yet so I don't know for sure if the 3/16's will fit or not....

I only use dremel tool to increase the size of the hole just a little bit to fit magnet. In my opinion, actual hole should be drilled with manual pinvice very slowly. Also I use a small pinvice first to get the position right and move onto the bigger bits. I've been doing that for my other models and it's been error free so far.

[edwin3060]

Oh I wasn't criticising or anything! Just disappointed (and frustrated) with the kit itself. Looks like you've found a method to extend that too short ball joint-- way to go! I might try it myself! Getting sick of looking at my Alto with the mis-aligned hip guns.

[Hikuro]

You know, I was kind of thinking maybe I should cut the ball joints that go onto the hip guns and then a small chunk of one of the remaining plastic trees I got, use a bit of the super glue junk and see if that fixes the placement...if it did I'd do it to my Ozma too. But I'm also kind of scared I'd completely ruin the joints and can't fix it...but kind of wanting to take the risk so I can buy a new Alto and make it even better than my first one.

As they always say, you're first can be good, your second even better, your third will kick ass.

Hmmm it kind of worked, the piece was just maybe a lil bit to large cause the leg was forced down a bit showing off to much of a gap between the two intakes the leg and the body, but it DID make the piece fit better!

However the gap was to geh for me so I took off the piece to sand it down some more and ended up loosing it. Almost even lost the ball! So I gave up, crazy glued it back together and put the joint back on the leg and considered it off limits.

Edited January 27, 2009 by Hikuro

[kyekye]

You know, I was kind of thinking maybe I should cut the ball joints that go onto the hip guns and then a small chunk of one of the remaining plastic trees I got, use a bit of the super glue junk and see if that fixes the placement...if it did I'd do it to my Ozma too. But I'm also kind of scared I'd completely ruin the joints and can't fix it...but kind of wanting to take the risk so I can buy a new Alto and make it even better than my first one.

As they always say, you're first can be good, your second even better, your third will kick ass.

Hmmm it kind of worked, the piece was just maybe a lil bit to large cause the leg was forced down a bit showing off to much of a gap between the two intakes the leg and the body, but it DID make the piece fit better!

However the gap was to geh for me so I took off the piece to sand it down some more and ended up loosing it. Almost even lost the ball! So I gave up, crazy glued it back together and put the joint back on the leg and considered it off limits.

Man! I'm sorry to hear that.... Maybe i should have put more detail into the process. This is what I did.

1. With 1.5mm pinvice, I drill through completely.

2. Insert the 1.5mm aluminum rod. very tight fit. I don't trust glue/crazy glue on any small part with stress/force.

3. cut the rod at the tip of ball side and sand it clean. If you have a small hammer, you can flatten it like rivet head. This will prevent the ball from coming off.

4. sand a little bit on the C shape from the ball joint (image is for the left side)

5. sand 2 parts from the hipgun. (see image)

The parts are small and slippery. Be extra careful... (too late i guess...... )

[hibiki_konzake]

Man! I'm sorry to hear that.... Maybe i should have put more detail into the process. This is what I did.

1. With 1.5mm pinvice, I drill through completely.

2. Insert the 1.5mm aluminum rod. very tight fit. I don't trust glue/crazy glue on any small part with stress/force.

3. cut the rod at the tip of ball side and sand it clean. If you have a small hammer, you can flatten it like rivet head. This will prevent the ball from coming off.

4. sand a little bit on the C shape from the ball joint (image is for the left side)

5. sand 2 parts from the hipgun. (see image)

The parts are small and slippery. Be extra careful... (too late i guess...... )

kyekye have you thought about drilling a second 0.5mm hole in and locking it with a 0.5mm rod at right angle to the aluminium rod? may work better then just fitting it together like you did.

[kyekye]

kyekye have you thought about drilling a second 0.5mm hole in and locking it with a 0.5mm rod at right angle to the aluminium rod? may work better then just fitting it together like you did.

Hmmm. I don't understand what you mean. Give me some visual images. It currently works and fits, but anything that can improve better fitting will be welcome.

I just got DX toy version of Ozma. Man! the landing gears hurts my eyes... Well it's a toy, so I can transform it back and forth without worry too much about it

There are a couple of things i can learn form it thou. the puzzle parts fitting IS much nicer on DX version.

[hibiki_konzake]

Hmmm. I don't understand what you mean. Give me some visual images. It currently works and fits, but anything that can improve better fitting will be welcome.

i mean like this sorry only a picture in paint i don't have a better drawing program at work. ;

[kyekye]

i mean like this sorry only a picture in paint i don't have a better drawing program at work. ;

Oh, i see now. That will require drilling through the aluminum rod. Sadly i don't have tool for that. Also I don't want to lock it in position yet. That will definitely improve the strength though. On the other hand, it is pretty solid on my mod so far, so I don't feel the need for extra lock.

[Hikuro]

Man! I'm sorry to hear that.... Maybe i should have put more detail into the process. This is what I did.

1. With 1.5mm pinvice, I drill through completely.

2. Insert the 1.5mm aluminum rod. very tight fit. I don't trust glue/crazy glue on any small part with stress/force.

3. cut the rod at the tip of ball side and sand it clean. If you have a small hammer, you can flatten it like rivet head. This will prevent the ball from coming off.

4. sand a little bit on the C shape from the ball joint (image is for the left side)

5. sand 2 parts from the hipgun. (see image)

The parts are small and slippery. Be extra careful... (too late i guess...... dry.gif )

I knew you had to put a rod in that and everything, I just had to go ghetto style cause idon't have anywhere to get those tools and they're expensive for me right now.

The plan worked, but I could of sanded it off a bit more (more like nail file it down) I suppose. But while doing that I lost the piece and just gave up and put it back to it's original form.

The glue works really well, I only had to use it for like 3 seconds to get a real good seal and I've played with the hip a bit to make sure it's working fine and it hasn't busted off.

Also needed something to cut the part a bit more evenly, my exacto knife wasn't exactly the best idea, it was cutting the piece at an angle which is why it required so much sanding. Maybe i'll try it again with something else.

[wm cheng]

Fantastic work so far KyeKye!

Thanks for posting a WIP too, now I can get my fix too! Haven't had any time to work on mine yet, but this will do... I love how your last VF-25 turned out, keep up the good work. All these little details really make a huge difference.

[hibiki_konzake]

hey kyekye i should be starting the mod of the landing gear tonight or tommorow so i hope i can show you how you can do a retracing landing gear soon. i finished all the fingers and already cut all the parts for the hand.

[edwin3060]

There are a couple of things i can learn form it thou. the puzzle parts fitting IS much nicer on DX version.

One thing about the DX is that the parts actually lock together-- Maybe you could make similar peg and hole locks or use magnets in those positions? For example, I think the peg locking the lower legs to the wings would really help for the model kit.

[kyekye]

One thing about the DX is that the parts actually lock together-- Maybe you could make similar peg and hole locks or use magnets in those positions? For example, I think the peg locking the lower legs to the wings would really help for the model kit.

Hmmm. The pegs might help locking parts in position , but it feels like it will fall into 'toy' category as soon as I add them. Magnets are better choice for models in my opinion. DX does have some small panel line fitting idea which I'm going to use.

Anyways, right now, I'm crazy busy with work, so I'll have to take 2 weeks break. Sorry about delay...

[edwin3060]

No problem! Shall wait eagerly for your next pics.

[Parker Midwinter]

kyekye, this is an awesome set of mods.

Your Alto Version is very pretty, by the way, well done.

I'll be watching with interest!

[hibiki_konzake]

here is my design of the main landingear for the vf25. it has a depth of about 4mm inside the leg. i have’t build most of the parts yet since i got sick befor i could even finish my hands.

been sick with the flu and neumonia.

hope to have pictures of the real parts soon.

landinggear.bmp

[kyekye]

here is my design of the main landingear for the vf25. it has a depth of about 4mm inside the leg. i have’t build most of the parts yet since i got sick befor i could even finish my hands.

been sick with the flu and neumonia.

hope to have pictures of the real parts soon.

Looks nice. What kind of material are you planning to use? 4mm is kinda almost touching the extension frame inside. You are planning to cut through 2 part pieces, but you will have to cap it with plastic sheet. The sample in model Graphix magazine shows a big surgery on the extension part to get enough space for landing gear and the cap sheet.

Real challenge is though the front landing gear, I guess.

I'd like to see the hands mod and landing gear mod. So get well and take some photos.

I'll be done with my afterhour project in 3 days, so I can continue on Ozma from this weekend. Yay!!

It is very discouraging though that the parts I moded will be replaecd by add-on parts from Super Pack (or Armored, if Bandai announce it )

I'm pretty sure there will be some people to mod those replacement parts to be clip-on parts!

[edwin3060]

Looks nice. What kind of material are you planning to use? 4mm is kinda almost touching the extension frame inside. You are planning to cut through 2 part pieces, but you will have to cap it with plastic sheet. The sample in model Graphix magazine shows a big surgery on the extension part to get enough space for landing gear and the cap sheet.

Real challenge is though the front landing gear, I guess.

I'd like to see the hands mod and landing gear mod. So get well and take some photos.

I'll be done with my afterhour project in 3 days, so I can continue on Ozma from this weekend. Yay!!

It is very discouraging though that the parts I moded will be replaecd by add-on parts from Super Pack (or Armored, if Bandai announce it )

I'm pretty sure there will be some people to mod those replacement parts to be clip-on parts!

Do you mind posting the Model Graphix pages that show how the landing gear mod is done? Pretty please with a cherry on top?

[hibiki_konzake]

Looks nice. What kind of material are you planning to use? 4mm is kinda almost touching the extension frame inside. You are planning to cut through 2 part pieces, but you will have to cap it with plastic sheet. The sample in model Graphix magazine shows a big surgery on the extension part to get enough space for landing gear and the cap sheet.

Real challenge is though the front landing gear, I guess.

i am using some paperclips as axles and i am going to make the tyres out of rubber the rest is styrophome and aluminium.

am not that much worried about the space it will take because i will mod the doors too so they will be a lot thinner so i guess i will only just come inside the inner frame on 2 places the wheel and the plates connecting the gear to the legs.

the new doors will be about 0.6mm thick instead of the ~1mm they are now.

but i will take pictures when i get that far.