m0n5t3r Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) yeah i put a link in my reply above (here it is again in case you missed it http://www.yamato-toys.com/dev/cont_057/index.html) ... it also helps to use your L & R index fingers to lift up the hatch while pushing the hip bar out w/ your thumbs... Edited April 30, 2009 by m0n5t3r
Gunpod71 Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 Not sure what you mean by separating the legs. Graham detaching the legs from the hip bar connection
Gunpod71 Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 i put a link in my reply above (here it is again in case you missed it http://www.yamato-toys.com/dev/cont_057/index.html) ... it also helps to use your L & R index fingers to lift up the hatch while pushing the hip bar out w/ your thumbs... Wow didnt know they had video of it I got the hip bar out! Thanks! Im really happy with this valk!
m0n5t3r Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 great! now to put the FPs on. Hik 1S won't be complete w/out his Strike pack. here's mine w/ my other Hikaru valks.
Gunpod71 Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 great! now to put the FPs on. Hik 1S won't be complete w/out his Strike pack. here's mine w/ my other Hikaru valks. Wow thats a cool pose of your Hik 1S. I need to get a better camera, and the lighting in my apt. sucks... What type of camera you using? Did you use w/out a flash?
m0n5t3r Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 Wow thats a cool pose of your Hik 1S. I need to get a better camera, and the lighting in my apt. sucks... What type of camera you using? Did you use w/out a flash? LOL that's a first... my cam? it's a sucky 8yr old, been to the repair shop twice, fat, low tech kodak . tried this w/out flash and some manual settings (thanks to tips i got from the Strike a pose thread) but there's still some shadow. it might be better if you used a black background to eliminate any shadows. here's some more Hikaru 1S love...
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 Any tips on how to carefully separate the legs?Pull on the back, not the backpack, but the back piece, the one that the swing wings are connected to, to angle the swing bar. Then simultaneously rotate both legs forward, this will pop the nose hatch open and you merely push up to get the hip bar out. Only takes a few seconds.
anime52k8 Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 Pull on the back, not the backpack, but the back piece, the one that the swing wings are connected to, to angle the swing bar. Then simultaneously rotate both legs forward, this will pop the nose hatch open and you merely push up to get the hip bar out. Only takes a few seconds. hmm... yeah, I'm not following, do you have any visual aids? (I hate the new nose hatch )
Gunpod71 Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) hmm... yeah, I'm not following, do you have any visual aids? (I hate the new nose hatch ) I was having trouble taking out the hip bar. Thanks to m0n5t3r he showed me this video. I didnt know Yamato had this in their website. I would've found it if I known japanese lol http://www.yamato-toys.com/dev/cont_057/index.html) Edited April 30, 2009 by Gunpod71
kanedaestes Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 great! now to put the FPs on. Hik 1S won't be complete w/out his Strike pack. here's mine w/ my other Hikaru valks. Damn you beat me to it. With the VF-1J Tan valk I was going to do a Legend of Hikaru set up.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted April 30, 2009 Posted April 30, 2009 hmm... yeah, I'm not following, do you have any visual aids? (I hate the new nose hatchAlright, in battroid mode, the swing bar attached to the hip bar, is parallel to the back. When you pull on the back, the back will angle out, and the swing bar will be at an angle to the back, no longer parallel. At this point, swing both legs forward simultaneously, 90 degrees, and the nose hatch will pop open, and all you need to do is push up with the hip bar to get it out of the nose hatch. The key to this is making sure the swing bar is at an angle, if it is parallel, it is a pain in the ass to get the hip bar out of the nose hatch.
Gunpod71 Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 great! now to put the FPs on. Hik 1S won't be complete w/out his Strike pack. here's mine w/ my other Hikaru valks.
Gunpod71 Posted May 1, 2009 Posted May 1, 2009 (edited) Vash the Stampede: Dangerous toys are fun but you could get hurt!! Edited May 1, 2009 by Gunpod71
Omegablue Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 I don't have the 1S, but is the white the same as the 1J?
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 I don't have the 1S, but is the white the same as the 1J?No, darker, more off an off-white/light grey, as opposed to the bright white on the 1J.
VF!Monkey Posted May 6, 2009 Posted May 6, 2009 Hi all, I've got a Yamato v2 1/60 vf-1s. Is there a trick to pulling the feet out? I know you have to pull them out before they will open, but is there a hidden release or something to make it easier to pull them out, or do you just have to use brute force? I've got one out, but as much as I pull on the other it seems pretty content to stay put. Overall I'm please with the v2, I seemed to have dodged the cracked shoulder issue and the overall stability of the toy impresses me more and more, especially compared to my v1 1/60 which has parts dropping off of it every time I look at it funny. But there are times where I'm wondering if they made the new one just a little too durable. Thanks!
BlueMax Posted May 7, 2009 Posted May 7, 2009 Welcome! Basically, yeah, gotta use more force to pull them out. Good to know that your VF-1 V2 shoulders are not showing signs of osteoporisis, but if they do fracture, just a bit of epoxy will cure it
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted May 7, 2009 Posted May 7, 2009 Hi all, I've got a Yamato v2 1/60 vf-1s. Is there a trick to pulling the feet out?A trick is to open the foot, and then grab the "heel"(back halve), and rotate it all the way back. This will inadvertently get the foot all the way out to full extension. There are 2 detents, pull it out to the 2nd detent for gerwalk mode(more foot mobility this way, but gap shows at the ankle), and pull it to the 1st detent for battroid mode(no gap at all at ankle; less mobility).
stram8777 Posted May 7, 2009 Posted May 7, 2009 (edited) Alright, in battroid mode, the swing bar attached to the hip bar, is parallel to the back. When you pull on the back, the back will angle out, and the swing bar will be at an angle to the back, no longer parallel. At this point, swing both legs forward simultaneously, 90 degrees, and the nose hatch will pop open, and all you need to do is push up with the hip bar to get it out of the nose hatch. The key to this is making sure the swing bar is at an angle, if it is parallel, it is a pain in the ass to get the hip bar out of the nose hatch. I also hate the new nose hatch. The above comment is greatly appreciated. However when transforming to battroid mode how do you get the hip bar to attach? I watched a couple youtube videos on how to transform, but I must say I had one heck of a time with this part of the transformation. In the end I think it took me about fifteen minutes and truthfully my VF-1J will never change modes again because of this aspect of the transformation. I really much prefer the way it is done on the 1/48's. But take that for what it's worth, since I never had a problem, and still don't, with the version one 1/60's. Edited May 7, 2009 by stram8777
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted May 7, 2009 Posted May 7, 2009 The above comment is greatly appreciated. However when transforming to battroid mode how do you get the hip bar to attach?Make sure the nose/cockpit section is pushed up all the way. Make sure the swing bar connected to the back, is at an angle, not parallel to the back. Make sure the middle of the bar is in the middle of the nose hatch, now at this point, make the swing bar flush with the back, making it parallel to it, all while the middle of the hip bar is in the middle of the nose hatch. It secures via motion of straightening the swing bar while the hip bar is in place in the middle of the nose hatch. Rotating the legs forward as the swing bar goes into the middle of the nose hatch helps a bit too.
VF!Monkey Posted May 7, 2009 Posted May 7, 2009 A trick is to open the foot, and then grab the "heel"(back halve), and rotate it all the way back. This will inadvertently get the foot all the way out to full extension. There are 2 detents, pull it out to the 2nd detent for gerwalk mode(more foot mobility this way, but gap shows at the ankle), and pull it to the 1st detent for battroid mode(no gap at all at ankle; less mobility). Ah that worked, thanks! Oh how I love the sound of stressing plastic hehe
Omegablue Posted May 11, 2009 Posted May 11, 2009 So we assume that the 1S Hiki is safe? I also read somewhere (Can't remember), that it has the knurling on the pins removed like the 1S Max? Can anyone confirm this?
m0n5t3r Posted May 11, 2009 Posted May 11, 2009 So we assume that the 1S Hiki is safe? I also read somewhere (Can't remember), that it has the knurling on the pins removed like the 1S Max? Can anyone confirm this? nope... Hik 1S pins still have the knurling... so does the 1D.
Major Focker Posted May 11, 2009 Posted May 11, 2009 ok, after more than a couple of months in gerwalk, i finally worked up the guts to transform VF-1S Hiky to battroid (thanks to VF-1S Max, which for some reason had just the right amount of "give" in the locking tabs and connectors). now that he's in battroid, i want to put him in that alpha-strike pose when he shot bodolza, but i can't get the guns to line up. has anyone managed this pose? pics? thanks
m0n5t3r Posted May 11, 2009 Posted May 11, 2009 this is the best i could do... the left hand can't really reach the underside of the gunpod when pointed straight forward and if you point the gunpod to the left the strike cannon can't point in the same direction (i wish they made the Stike cannon so it could swiver l-r...)
Major Focker Posted May 11, 2009 Posted May 11, 2009 thanks for the pics. and yeah, if only the strike cannon swivelled... or the left shoulder could detach a little...
anime52k8 Posted May 11, 2009 Posted May 11, 2009 something along these lines? (forgot about the head lasers...)
Omegablue Posted June 30, 2009 Posted June 30, 2009 I've noticed various sites like Hobby Search are offering the Hiki 1J with SP as a re-release for July. Can anyone confirm if this will have the shoulder's fixed, as well the new crouch section?
ruskiiVFaussie Posted June 30, 2009 Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) I'm hoping for the 1J GBP-1S combo for Christmas release (an i mean before Christmas for us mid november so we can actually get these SENT to our home in time for Christmas 25th.) Either that or a Ghost X-9, my Guld 21 is nekid. YF-19? bah! the real battle was Guld and the Ghost. Edited June 30, 2009 by ruskiiVFaussie
EXO Posted August 25, 2009 Author Posted August 25, 2009 Just got this via Yamato club email. 1/48 VF-1J Weathering on the way! Only through Yamato Online Shop Sept. 1-9th. PM me for orders.
KiriK Posted August 25, 2009 Posted August 25, 2009 Save's post says 1/48, but he means 1/60 v2 VF-1J, right? please let it be 1/60..haha... looks like 1/60 from the picture
sidearmsalpha Posted August 25, 2009 Posted August 25, 2009 Looks like the 1/48 to me. The legs look like they are from the 1/48, and the airbrake seems to look like it opens. That one retractable hook on the back of the plane looks like the one from the 1/48, too.
EXO Posted August 25, 2009 Author Posted August 25, 2009 Oh whooops... my bad. That is 1/48. Didn't even look at the scale. Thought the line was dead. You can tel by the second small tiny fin behind the cockpit that recesses into the hump that it's 1/48.
Recommended Posts