505thAirborne Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 See i was right, On the older thread i made the comment that Yamato would do the other Max Valkyries, and though I was told NOT to hold my breath.... The air is sweet!! An affordable VF-1A TV series max, that is too sweet. This switch to all 1/60 is paying off!!!!
505thAirborne Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 One question/comment. Kind of a dumb one maybe, but i do not have any of the 1/60 v.2 valks yet.... waiting for the VF-1D. Are the NO STEP markings & UN Spacy logo stickers or are they tampo printed on? I got lost in the old thread, Thought I'd try here. I was curious cause the makings on Max's VF-1A here do not look like stickers.
m0n5t3r Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 The swing bar for the legs and and landing gear is about the only visible diecast for the VF-1 v2 the LERX too. but i would have preferred it plastic like on the 1/48 (visible paint chipping).
ghostryder Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 the LERX too. but i would have preferred it plastic like on the 1/48 (visible paint chipping). I think it needs to be metal to withstand the sliding nose action, much like the VF-0. But I agree on the paint chipping concern, plus uneven discoloration over time.
Kyp Durron Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 One question/comment. Kind of a dumb one maybe, but i do not have any of the 1/60 v.2 valks yet.... waiting for the VF-1D. Are the NO STEP markings & UN Spacy logo stickers or are they tampo printed on? I got lost in the old thread, Thought I'd try here. I was curious cause the makings on Max's VF-1A here do not look like stickers. The U.N.SPACY are tampo, the no steps are stickers. -Kyp
honkhet Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 One question/comment. Kind of a dumb one maybe, but i do not have any of the 1/60 v.2 valks yet.... waiting for the VF-1D. Are the NO STEP markings & UN Spacy logo stickers or are they tampo printed on? I got lost in the old thread, Thought I'd try here. I was curious cause the makings on Max's VF-1A here do not look like stickers. so far for all vf-1 1/60 ver2 yamatos, the 'no step' markings are all stickers yup you hav to do them all yourself
505thAirborne Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) Thats a bummer, those are a pain to apply. Oh well, its still an a amazing looking VF-1A. My Book shelf will have it one day. Thanks for the info guys!!! Edited January 16, 2009 by 505thAirborne
ruskiiVFaussie Posted January 16, 2009 Author Posted January 16, 2009 I dunno, No Step stickers are not so bad, half the fun is finding the missing dropped one! (check under shoe first)
505thAirborne Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 I dunno, No Step stickers are not so bad, half the fun is finding the missing dropped one! (check under shoe first) Its the first place I always check!!
Guest sh002 Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 it would be cool if someone made and mass produced a custom zentraedi uniform for the tv max vf-1a when it comes out. it could be sold to us fans for a reasonable price of course.
ruskiiVFaussie Posted January 16, 2009 Author Posted January 16, 2009 Yeah, i'll be in for one sh002.
Shun Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 will they ever make this missile rack vertical stabilizer as an optional part for TV Max 1A?
Javabean Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) will they ever make this missile rack vertical stabilizer as an optional part for TV Max 1A? I'm in for one if ever it is made. Strange the pilot hv to fire off all the misslies first before able to fold the stabilizer to transform to Gerwalk or Battroid Edited January 16, 2009 by Javabean
BlueMax Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Hah... Anime Friend strikes... or should I say "strucked"....
honkhet Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 will they ever make this missile rack vertical stabilizer as an optional part for TV Max 1A? @@ holy cow i never seen those before!!
jenius Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 There's a story behind that. IIRC, in that episode, Max single-handedly blows up a Zentraedi ship so the animators were like "Wait, one VF-1 shouldn't be able to do that... let's draw missiles all over his tail fins to explain it." Then again, maybe I'm typing too much when I'm tired again.
Graham Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Just had another talk with Yamato's HK-based QC guy and he is at least now discussing with the Chinese factory ways to solve the shoulder cracking problem. On the two suggestions I put forward of 1) making the pin a smaller diameter and 2) changing the shoulder joint material from ABS to POM, the factory has come back with the following comments: - 1) Regarding making the pin a smaller diameter, the factory is worried that it may not be secure enough and may work it's way out. Personaly, this wouldn't bother me. I'd rather have a loose pin than a shoulder that cracks. Anyway, a loose pin can be secured easily enough. 2) Just changing to POM without any other changes would only bring a marginal increase in strength. This would need to be comined with soomething else, such as a smaller diameter pin or actually making the part thicker (retooling needed). Will be meeting with him tonight for a mutual friend's wedding dinner and will discuss further. Graham
sil80jdm Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Just had another talk with Yamato's HK-based QC guy and he is at least now discussing with the Chinese factory ways to solve the shoulder cracking problem. On the two suggestions I put forward of 1) making the pin a smaller diameter and 2) changing the shoulder joint material from ABS to POM, the factory has come back with the following comments: - 1) Regarding making the pin a smaller diameter, the factory is worried that it may not be secure enough and may work it's way out. Personaly, this wouldn't bother me. I'd rather have a loose pin than a shoulder that cracks. Anyway, a loose pin can be secured easily enough. 2) Just changing to POM without any other changes would only bring a marginal increase in strength. This would need to be comined with soomething else, such as a smaller diameter pin or actually making the part thicker (retooling needed). Will be meeting with him tonight for a mutual friend's wedding dinner and will discuss further. Graham Nice! Thanks for keeping up on this Graham!
edwin3060 Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Just had another talk with Yamato's HK-based QC guy and he is at least now discussing with the Chinese factory ways to solve the shoulder cracking problem. On the two suggestions I put forward of 1) making the pin a smaller diameter and 2) changing the shoulder joint material from ABS to POM, the factory has come back with the following comments: - 1) Regarding making the pin a smaller diameter, the factory is worried that it may not be secure enough and may work it's way out. Personaly, this wouldn't bother me. I'd rather have a loose pin than a shoulder that cracks. Anyway, a loose pin can be secured easily enough. 2) Just changing to POM without any other changes would only bring a marginal increase in strength. This would need to be comined with soomething else, such as a smaller diameter pin or actually making the part thicker (retooling needed). Will be meeting with him tonight for a mutual friend's wedding dinner and will discuss further. Graham The lengths that you will go to, Graham O_O. Much Appreciated!
lechuck Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 This is interesting news and the problem solving seems to be going in a positive direction. But at the same time it also means a bunch of us do have "inferior" products or at least ticking time bombs when it comes to the shoulders. Nope, on a personal level I don't feel all to happy about this development.
Graham Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 as i mentioned previously, assembly inspection qc was stepped up after vf-1J and there have been very few breakages since then.graham (from phone)
m0n5t3r Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) i think a same diameter pin w/out the serrated fat end would do just fine. the pin doesn't slide out even w/out the fat end even after repeatedly closing/opening the hinge. Edited January 16, 2009 by m0n5t3r
sil80jdm Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 hey guys, i got bored so i took some pics of my dyrl vf-1s roy with the tv super armor and 1/48 tv hands to signify hikaru tv vf-1s.. Didnt really see any pics of anybody do this with a new 1/60v2 so i thought i would put it up to lighten the mood, the shoulder topic is getting too depressing lol.. BTW both of mine are cracked =( but so far its still in 1 piece =)
m0n5t3r Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 hey guys, i got bored so i took some pics of my dyrl vf-1s roy with the tv super armor and 1/48 tv hands to signify hikaru tv vf-1s.. Didnt really see any pics of anybody do this with a new 1/60v2 so i thought i would put it up to lighten the mood, the shoulder topic is getting too depressing lol.. BTW both of mine are cracked =( but so far its still in 1 piece =) LOL, boxing gloves 1/48 hands on v2.1/60 ... definitely the first i've seen...
VFTF1 Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Just had another talk with Yamato's HK-based QC guy and he is at least now discussing with the Chinese factory ways to solve the shoulder cracking problem. On the two suggestions I put forward of 1) making the pin a smaller diameter and 2) changing the shoulder joint material from ABS to POM, the factory has come back with the following comments: - 1) Regarding making the pin a smaller diameter, the factory is worried that it may not be secure enough and may work it's way out. Personaly, this wouldn't bother me. I'd rather have a loose pin than a shoulder that cracks. Anyway, a loose pin can be secured easily enough. 2) Just changing to POM without any other changes would only bring a marginal increase in strength. This would need to be comined with soomething else, such as a smaller diameter pin or actually making the part thicker (retooling needed). Will be meeting with him tonight for a mutual friend's wedding dinner and will discuss further. Graham Yamato: A Work in Progress Well - I hope they definitively fix it so people won't have anything more to complain about QC wise Pete
Valkyrie addict Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 I was wondering Graham, how do they put the pin inside the hinge?? cause if they're hammering it in, maybe that also adds to cracks forming up
chowyunskinny Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 hey guys, i got bored so i took some pics of my dyrl vf-1s roy with the tv super armor and 1/48 tv hands to signify hikaru tv vf-1s.. Didnt really see any pics of anybody do this with a new 1/60v2 so i thought i would put it up to lighten the mood, the shoulder topic is getting too depressing lol.. BTW both of mine are cracked =( but so far its still in 1 piece =) questiong for you sil80jdm. Hard to tell in your pics, but how different is color of the white plastic on the Roy VF-1S and the TV hands from the VF-1J? It looks close in the pics, but isn't the Hikaru 1J super white compared to the 1S? Thanks.
logos Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 Just had another talk with Yamato's HK-based QC guy and he is at least now discussing with the Chinese factory ways to solve the shoulder cracking problem. On the two suggestions I put forward of 1) making the pin a smaller diameter and 2) changing the shoulder joint material from ABS to POM, the factory has come back with the following comments: - 1) Regarding making the pin a smaller diameter, the factory is worried that it may not be secure enough and may work it's way out. Personaly, this wouldn't bother me. I'd rather have a loose pin than a shoulder that cracks. Anyway, a loose pin can be secured easily enough. 2) Just changing to POM without any other changes would only bring a marginal increase in strength. This would need to be comined with soomething else, such as a smaller diameter pin or actually making the part thicker (retooling needed). Will be meeting with him tonight for a mutual friend's wedding dinner and will discuss further. Graham Well that's good to know. Maybe they will have a new hinge by the time the Max comes out? Now that I have loosened the shoulder ball joints on the arms I think that will help allot with the material cracking. I didn't realize how much force I was using on the shoulders to move them around till I loosened them up a bit. I would also agree that I would rather the pin fell out than the shoulder cracked. I could come up with a solution to keep the pin in or I could jury up a replacement pin if I lost it some how. Anyways thanks Graham!
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 2) Just changing to POM without any other changes would only bring a marginal increase in strength. This would need to be comined with soomething else, such as a smaller diameter pin or actually making the part thicker (retooling needed). In this case Graham, it would seem that diecast is the best route. I for one, could care less about it being painted, I can deal with bare diecast so long as it finally prevents the hinge from cracking.
sil80jdm Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 questiong for you sil80jdm. Hard to tell in your pics, but how different is color of the white plastic on the Roy VF-1S and the TV hands from the VF-1J? It looks close in the pics, but isn't the Hikaru 1J super white compared to the 1S? Thanks. the 1/48 vf-1j hands seemed to match really well with the vf-1s.. I tried to put the 1/60v2 vf-1j hands on him and those are SUPER white so it was definitely a better match.. And i love the boxing glove look lol!
m0n5t3r Posted January 16, 2009 Posted January 16, 2009 I would also agree that I would rather the pin fell out than the shoulder cracked. I could come up with a solution to keep the pin in... a dab of super glue would do on either end of the pin. if the pin is fastened, via the serrated edge of the pin or super glue, the movement of the hinge is much tighter (not the shoulder)... whereas w/out it being fastened to the plastic, the movement is not as tight (but not loose at all), but the pin is still secure and will in no way slip out of the hole... boxing gloved VF-1's FTW!
m0n5t3r Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 (edited) In this case Graham, it would seem that diecast is the best route. I for one, could care less about it being painted, I can deal with bare diecast so long as it finally prevents the hinge from cracking. wouldn't it be hard or damn near impossible to bend a die-cast hinge to get it up past the tab that holds it battroid mode (and that tab will surely wear out faster if it's rubbed against metal)? or is it... the inside part plastic and the outer cracking part die-cast... Edited January 17, 2009 by m0n5t3r
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 wouldn't it be hard or damn near impossible to bend a die-cast hinge to get it up past the tab that holds it battroid mode (and that tab will surely wear out faster if it's rubbed against metal)? or is it... the inside part plastic and the outer cracking part die-cast... Hindi, merong space/clearance maka pag move ng hinge upwards para hindi hini hit mo ng tab.
Agent-GHQ Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 will they ever make this missile rack vertical stabilizer as an optional part for TV Max 1A? I think that would look retarded!
anime52k8 Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 will they ever make this missile rack vertical stabilizer as an optional part for TV Max 1A? wow, I was just thinking about that episode. thanks for posting that.
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