General steps of modeling and other questions

[shiroikaze]

Hello everyone! I've been lurking here since the beginning of October, searching and reading up on any useful information when it comes to modeling and such. I have to admit that even with alot of amazing threads here, it's kinda difficult searching for any specific info.

So pretty much, I'm only asking for some guidance from the pros, the experienced, and even the noobs above me. I've done model kits before--gundam and aircrafts--but I'm kind of new to the painting and detailing aspect of modeling. I just got my VF-25F a few weeks ago and I want to try to go all out with it after some practice.

Pretty much, I will try and go for a heavy look, semi-new/minimal weathering. I'm going to try to paint everything on and use as few decals as possible…

I'll be borrowing HWR MKII's method to tint all the clear parts like the canopy and I'll also be using rare earth magnets to tighten up any loose parts like how WM Cheng did to his VF-25F. I'll be using his VF-25F step-by-step thread to get a good idea on placement and such.

And from what I understand of the steps to modeling from another thread and FichtenFoo's MG tutorial, it generally goes something like this:

1) Cut parts from sprues, leaving nubs intact to be shaven flush with a razor or wet sandpaper.

2) Organize and skewer parts to prime and then paint base colors after cure.

3) Mask and paint details and designs piece by piece.

4) Remove masks and spray Future coating.

5) Add panel lines and decals.

6) Mix Tamiya Flat Base (or similar) with Future and spray once more to seal everything.

Is that how the whole general shebang goes? Is there anything crucial that I miss? Or is there anything extra that needs to be noted?

Now before I start, do I have to wash the parts in soapy water? I read somewhere that there is some sort of chemical on the parts that makes paint or primer difficult to adhere to the surface. Or does that only pertain to resin?

Also, what can I use as primer, gloss coat, decal solution? From what I read, Future can be used as a primer and everything. Is it better for a noob like me to buy individual supplies like Mr. Surfacer for priming, Microsol and Microset for the decals, and so on instead of relying solely on Future? Also, can the paint themselves be used as a primer as well? Is Future best sprayed on or dunked in for both priming and sealing? Will Future be enough to protect the paint and decals from multiple transformations?

For panel lines, which yields better/precise results? Gundam Markers or oil/clay washes? Is this merely preference? Did anyone have to scribe deeper panel lines into the VF-25F kit before filling them in?

Now about my airbrush (pics included):

My dad brought this home many, many years ago and I just finally got this little sucker out for a closer look. It's a Binks "Wren-C" and from what I understand from Winter Dyne in another thread, I guess this airbrush mixes externally, and generally not recommendable... But then again, it’s the only airbrush I have at the moment (for now) and I need to practice with it.

Has anyone used Binks before and what do you think of it? Am I better off getting a different airbrush before I start on the VF-25F?

As for the compressor, I have none. As I've read, a compressor with a tank, regulator and moisture trap is the best way to go. I know I won't be airbrushing often so I really don't need too much power or a really big tank… I'm eying these three compressors below, which do you think is the best? Is there anything better in the $70-$120 price range? Can I buy a separate moisture trap if the compressor doesn't come with one? Also, how does the horsepower come into play? Is it for shortening charge time?

Senco PC1010 Compressor, 1 Horsepower (PEAK), 1 Gallon from Amazon

Central Pneumatic 1/3 HP, 3 Gallon, 100 PSI Oilless Air Compressor

Central Pneumatic 1/4 HP, 3 Gallon, 100 PSI Oilless Compressor

And finally, two questions of the model kit I have in hand (pics as well):

First off, there seem to be two scratches on the canopy, inside and out. How would I go about to get rid of this? Do I wetsand it down with a high grade sandpaper and rub it with Tamiya Polishing Compound? I don’t suppose it will go away if I dip it in Future, would it?

Second, the pastic mold. I noticed these "circular, roundish swirly areas" on some parts and they’re pretty noticeable on the black wings. How do these happen? I know they won’t be visible if I paint over it, but will they cause any problems later on?

~~~

I think that covers all the questions I have at the moment, I wanted to ask some more questions but a bit of more googling answered some of the questions I have... I just want to be sure before I start on anything.

Again, bear with my noobiness and thanks in advance!

Edited December 26, 2008 by shiroikaze

[anime52k8]

And from what I understand of the steps to modeling from another thread and FichtenFoo's MG tutorial, it generally goes something like this:

1) Cut parts from sprues, leaving nubs intact to be shaven flush with a razor or wet sandpaper.

2) Organize and skewer parts to prime and then paint base colors after cure.

3) Mask and paint details and designs piece by piece.

4) Remove masks and spray Future coating.

5) Add panel lines and decals.

6) Mix Tamiya Flat Base (or similar) with Future and spray once more to seal everything.

Is that how the whole general shebang goes? Is there anything crucial that I miss? Or is there anything extra that needs to be noted?

only suggestion would be this: for step 4 make shure it's a gloss coat, then do decals, another gloss coat, panel lines/weathering, and a matte/semi-gloss coat.

the two gloss coats help make the decals blend in better and protect them from what ever you use to do panel lines/weathering.

Now before I start, do I have to wash the parts in soapy water? I read somewhere that there is some sort of chemical on the parts that makes paint or primer difficult to adhere to the surface. Or does that only pertain to resin?

yes, not only because there may be some residual lubricant from the molding process, but also oil from handling the parts with you're bare hands

Also, what can I use as primer, gloss coat, decal solution? From what I read, Future can be used as a primer and everything. Is it better for a noob like me to buy individual supplies like Mr. Surfacer for priming, Microsol and Microset for the decals, and so on instead of relying solely on Future? Also, can the paint themselves be used as a primer as well? Is Future best sprayed on or dunked in for both priming and sealing? Will Future be enough to protect the paint and decals from multiple transformations?

you can't prime a surface with future. what David meant was normal primer then normal colors, and everything else is future based. and I would say get a primer like Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya surface primer (tamiya is what's more available for me here, they work the same). and Microsol and Microset are also very good to have.

Future is best sprayed on in whet coats for big parts, dunked for small parts and clear parts.

For panel lines, which yields better/precise results? Gundam Markers or oil/clay washes? Is this merely preference? Did anyone have to scribe deeper panel lines into the VF-25F kit before filling them in?

you probebly don't need to make the panel lines deaper, and as for Gundam marker vs. wash it more of a "what style do you want" thing that a case of which is better. a marker will give you very bold dark lines, oil washes will be much softer and more subtle. what look are you going for?

Now about my airbrush (pics included):

My dad brought this home many, many years ago and I just finally got this little sucker out for a closer look. It's a Binks "Wren-C" and from what I understand from Winter Dyne in another thread, I guess this airbrush mixes externally, and generally not recommendable... But then again, it's the only airbrush I have at the moment (for now) and I need to practice with it.

Has anyone used Binks before and what do you think of it? Am I better off getting a different airbrush before I start on the VF-25F?

there's nothing wrong with external mix airbrushes, I know some people who can get great results with them. the don't offer as much control as a double action internal mix, but they're simple to operate and are easier to clean. it's definatly a good thing to practice on before you decide if you want to upgrade.

if you do want to upgrade get an iwata eclipse. there great.

As for the compressor, I have none. As I've read, a compressor with a tank, regulator and moisture trap is the best way to go. I know I won't be airbrushing often so I really don't need too much power or a really big tank… I'm eying these three compressors below, which do you think is the best? Is there anything better in the $70-$120 price range? Can I buy a separate moisture trap if the compressor doesn't come with one? Also, how does the horsepower come into play? Is it for shortening charge time?

Senco PC1010 Compressor, 1 Horsepower (PEAK), 1 Gallon from Amazon

Central Pneumatic 1/3 HP, 3 Gallon, 100 PSI Oilless Air Compressor

Central Pneumatic 1/4 HP, 3 Gallon, 100 PSI Oilless Compressor

get the first one, it's a great compressor.

And finally, two questions of the model kit I have in hand (pics as well):

First off, there seem to be two scratches on the canopy, inside and out. How would I go about to get rid of this? Do I wetsand it down with a high grade sandpaper and rub it with Tamiya Polishing Compound? I don't suppose it will go away if I dip it in Future, would it?

Second, the pastic mold. I noticed these "circular, roundish swirly areas" on some parts and they're pretty noticeable on the black wings. How do these happen? I know they won't be visible if I paint over it, but will they cause any problems later on?

for the scratches on the cannopy do both. wetsand and polish, then future just to be sure.

and the swirly things are a normal part of injection molding. the way the plastic enters the mold, fills it and hardens is what makes that happen. it's especially common with dark colored plastic and slightly metallic finished plastic and it doesn't really effect the part at all.

[shiroikaze]

Thanks alot for answering my questions, that clears up alot of things. But,

only suggestion would be this: for step 4 make shure it's a gloss coat, then do decals, another gloss coat, panel lines/weathering, and a matte/semi-gloss coat.

the two gloss coats help make the decals blend in better and protect them from what ever you use to do panel lines/weathering.

So the gloss coat is basically Future unmixed, right? Or do I require an actual gloss coat product?

yes, not only because there may be some residual lubricant from the molding process, but also oil from handling the parts with you're bare hands

Will a simple rinse and scrubbing do? Or do I leave them to soak for the whole day and scrub them dry?

you can't prime a surface with future. what David meant was normal primer then normal colors, and everything else is future based. and I would say get a primer like Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya surface primer (tamiya is what's more available for me here, they work the same). and Microsol and Microset are also very good to have.

Future is best sprayed on in whet coats for big parts, dunked for small parts and clear parts.

Understood, but what do you mean by "in whet coats"?

you probebly don't need to make the panel lines deaper, and as for Gundam marker vs. wash it more of a "what style do you want" thing that a case of which is better. a marker will give you very bold dark lines, oil washes will be much softer and more subtle. what look are you going for?

I did love the panel lines shown here and in the Hobby Japan scans in Klam1020's post, but WM Cheng's VF-0S look pretty much stunning, so I guess I think I will go for the subtler look. Thanks for clearing that up.

Again, thanks alot for clearing alot of things.

Edited December 27, 2008 by shiroikaze

[VF-25Fan]

Hi guys. Sorry for interrupting this thread but I felt that this was a rather reasonable thread to put these questions in as making a new thread for these related questions would just be a waste of space.

I'm completely new to this scale of model making and I am planning on buying the VF-25F. Prior to this I used to construct Warhammer models so all I really know is undercoat, next layer of coat, detail and decal. Just really basic stuff =S. Also, I asked around the local hobby stores on what to do about clear coating and what-not but I am still confused.

Please forgive my long and newbish questions.

1) At what stage do you construct the actual model? After painting and decal? In which order does painting and decal occur?

2) What is future coating, masking, skewering parts to prime and curing?

3) Is it necessary to paint the whole model again even though the plastic colour scheme is mostly correct? If I just decal, panel line, flat coat and clear coat it shouldn't that be enough?

4) Does sanding the sprue marks and then overcoating with a clear flat coat make them disappear or less noticeable?

[Ghost Train]

Hi guys. Sorry for interrupting this thread but I felt that this was a rather reasonable thread to put these questions in as making a new thread for these related questions would just be a waste of space.

I'm completely new to this scale of model making and I am planning on buying the VF-25F. Prior to this I used to construct Warhammer models so all I really know is undercoat, next layer of coat, detail and decal. Just really basic stuff =S. Also, I asked around the local hobby stores on what to do about clear coating and what-not but I am still confused.

Please forgive my long and newbish questions.

1) At what stage do you construct the actual model? After painting and decal? In which order does painting and decal occur?

2) What is future coating, masking, skewering parts to prime and curing?

3) Is it necessary to paint the whole model again even though the plastic colour scheme is mostly correct? If I just decal, panel line, flat coat and clear coat it shouldn't that be enough?

4) Does sanding the sprue marks and then overcoating with a clear flat coat make them disappear or less noticeable?

1 -> Most people do a rough test fit, assemble everything but without tightening and then diassamble, sand/paint/cure/anything else, then re-assemble. Although I think that 90% of the time (at least with Bandai kits), this is really not necessary.

M personal preference is to assemble sub-components (ie. arms, body, wings, etc) loosely to get an idea of how things fit, then disassemble, prime, paint, coat, decal & panel, then final coat. When I'm done, I move on to the next sub-component and start from the first step again. This system takes a bit longer but I keep better track of all my parts, and what work needs to be done on them.

2 -> Masking is to apply tape over an area of the plastic, except for thin strips left uncovered. The taped area is then sprayed with paint. The desired effect is to produce really straight lines of paints. Skewering is to attach a plastic piece onto a skewer (I use kabob skewers from the supermarket), so as to make it easier to paint and dry. I hold one end of the skewer with my hand, then spray... you get the idea. Here are 2 pics:

(note that on this one, my parts have dried already, so I laid them down, when drying they should be skewered into the box ... like this:

I'm not so sure about futures... I think it's a type of coat used prior to paneling so as to make the surface more receptive to the wash or marker you're using. A primer is a type of chemical sprayed onto the plastic before painting, so that when you do apply paint, the paint clings or adheres better to the plastic. Curing is when the paint has completely finished interacting chemically with the surface. Although the paint can feel/look dried often times reactions are still taking place, and it's therefore recommended that you leave your plastics undisturbed overnight.

3 -> Depends on the kit manufacturer and how thorough you want it to look. Generally, the Bandai MG kits (which is more or less the category the VF-25 falls into) are modeled in the right color out of the box, so with just panel lines & decals/stickers they look great imo... however, correct painting of the parts will make the kit look more realistic and less like a toy.

4 -> In my opinion, the one thing that hides spruce marks the best is the correct cutting off the runner in the first place. I use the Tamiya basic tool set, and the runner cutter is absolutely awesome, when done right the mark is almost invisible to the naked eye. Otherwise, a combination of painting, sanding, or putty can get rid of the mark for you.

I'm a noob myself too as I have only recently started working on plamo again after a long break of many years, and document my stuff in my "burogu.": http://cynpanda.blogspot.com/. Hope this info helps.

Edited December 27, 2008 by Ghost Train

[shiroikaze]

@VF-25Fan: Interrupting a thread doesn't bug me at all! Besides getting help for myself, I was kinda hoping that anyone else who is also new can benefit from this thread. So go right ahead and ask away!

@Ghost Train: Thanks alot for helping, we really appreciate it. One thing to note though is that can't be just any tape, it's gotta be low-tack tape like painter's tape or that Tamiya tape.

As for Future, the link below will probably explain what it is better than I do:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

But in a nutshell, it's a household cleaning product that has found alot of uses in hobbyists' hands. It's mainly used as a sealing coat, but I guess it's only handy in other situations if you know what you are doing...

[anime52k8]

Understood, but what do you mean by "in whet coats"?

blegh, meant to say wet coat as in a heavy coat. as aposed to a mist coat, where you spray it on very lightly. you want to lay it down so that it fully covers, but not to heavy that it starts to pool, run, or fill in details.

[shiroikaze]

blegh, meant to say wet coat as in a heavy coat. as aposed to a mist coat, where you spray it on very lightly. you want to lay it down so that it fully covers, but not to heavy that it starts to pool, run, or fill in details.

Oh okay! Gotcha!

[anime52k8]

Will a simple rinse and scrubbing do? Or do I leave them to soak for the whole day and scrub them dry?

rinse and scrubbing using a mild dish soap. letting them soak will only do you good if you have an ultrasonic bath like he does, then the bath does the scrubbing for you.

best thing for cleaning parts is to go out and buy something like a crest spinbrush. they're less than 10 bucks, and they're good for getting in to little corners and stuff.

Edited December 28, 2008 by anime52k8

[shiroikaze]

rinse and scrubbing using a mild dish soap. letting them soak will only do you good if you have an ultrasonic bath like he does, then the bath does the scrubbing for you.

best thing for cleaning parts is to go out and buy something like a crest spinbrush. they're less than 10 bucks, and they're good for getting in to little corners and stuff.

Thanks alot (I mean it) for helping, never knew those spinbrushes had gotten cheaper...

As for the gloss coat question, I forgot that the answer was right there in front in me =\ *smacks forehead*

Edited December 29, 2008 by shiroikaze

[VF-25Fan]

Thanks very much for your responses guys. Much appreciated.

I just have a question about cutting the pieces off the sprue. Do you just get a modelling knife and cut it?

Just two more weeks until my VF-25F reaches Australia .

Edited January 5, 2009 by VF-25Fan

[shiroikaze]

Thanks very much for your responses guys. Much appreciated.

I just have a question about cutting the pieces off the sprue. Do you just get a modelling knife and cut it?

Just two more weeks until my VF-25F reaches Australia .

I think usually wire cutters/pliers will do just fine, of course leave a bit of the sprue for sanding.

I got another question as well, I've read that a moisture trap is just about essential for a compressor. I just received my Senco compressor last night (yay) and I noticed a drain valve under the tank. Is that valve a good substitute for a moisture trap?

[EDIT] Scratch that, a moisture trap is not a drain valve. Bah.

but wondering if an inline moisture trap works just as well as the one attached directly to the compressor...

Edited January 15, 2009 by shiroikaze

[shiroikaze]

Bumping,

I've heard alot of "you get what you pay for" when buying a compressor, does that apply for the moisture trap as well? Will any "decently priced" moisture trap work just as good as the more expensive traps? Is an inline trap works just as well as one attached directly to a compressor?

Also, does anyone know what Tamiya Polishing Compound did WM Cheng use on his VF-0S's canopy? If I guess, it be "coarse", but I want to make sure. I also sent him a PM, but I guess he's kinda of busy lately.

Sidenote: Nice to know that my local Lucky's stocks Future...

Edited January 17, 2009 by shiroikaze

[shiroikaze]

So I found out what WM Cheng used, it was fine polishing compound.

But anyway, I went ahead and bought the 1/8 hose with the inline moisture trap and two 1/8 quick disconnects... They don't fit! D:

My airbrush doesn't have those connectors, found out the original connectors on my airbrush is actually meant for the clear vinyl tubing--I'll be sticking with this for now. Ugh, now I kinda wished my dad brought home the entire set...

Sigh... So anyway, I'm just gonna forgo the water trap for now, I'll just monitor the tubing for any water coming up from the tank. Probably make my own at some point...

Edited January 23, 2009 by shiroikaze

[Cent]

I just recently started up construction of my VF-25F as well. I haven't touched a model kit since I was 12, so I am pretty lost when it comes to stuff like this.

So far, I've slowly panel lined all the parts still on the sprue and rubbed off the excess. I'm guessing my next step is to exacto knife the parts off the sprues and runners and smooth them off with some sandpaper.

I would like to apply a matte coating to reduce the glossy look of the plastic, so do I apply this first? then the decals? then a sealing coat? Considering I didn't apply the decals yet, do I have to redo the panel lines once the decals are applied? What kind of coating solution should be I using? I also have some left over paint from when I was a kid, although they are enamel and I think the paint has separated. Is this no longer going to be useful or would I still be able to stir it up and apply small portions of it (I only intend to paint the upper intakes after masking it) with a brush (not really worth it for me to go get airbrush equipment).

[Ghost Train]

I just recently started up construction of my VF-25F as well. I haven't touched a model kit since I was 12, so I am pretty lost when it comes to stuff like this.

So far, I've slowly panel lined all the parts still on the sprue and rubbed off the excess. I'm guessing my next step is to exacto knife the parts off the sprues and runners and smooth them off with some sandpaper.

I would like to apply a matte coating to reduce the glossy look of the plastic, so do I apply this first? then the decals? then a sealing coat? Considering I didn't apply the decals yet, do I have to redo the panel lines once the decals are applied? What kind of coating solution should be I using? I also have some left over paint from when I was a kid, although they are enamel and I think the paint has separated. Is this no longer going to be useful or would I still be able to stir it up and apply small portions of it (I only intend to paint the upper intakes after masking it) with a brush (not really worth it for me to go get airbrush equipment).

First, you want to use a nipper (aka spruce cutter) to cut out the parts from the sprue. An xacto can be used afterward to "shave off" what's left of the nipped bud. Sandpaper = yes.

I'm building mine with unusual custom colors, so my process might be different than yours, but to reduce the glosiness, I would spray on a clear acrylic flat (it's basically clear/transparent paint that comes in flat, semi-gloss, and gloss varieties), I assume that there is a comparable equivalent for enamels. Check with your local hobby store.

The general order which will vary a bit from person to person is approximately like this:

1. cut & sand prepare the parts.

2. prime the surface

3. spray on your base color

4. spray a layer of gloss.

5. Do your decals and wash lines

6. spray a layer of flat to cover up the glosiness.

The reason there is a layer of gloss tucked in the middle is because gloss makes the surface smoother, promoting better adhesion of decals, and rubbing off of wash line errors.

If I didn't answer your other questions it's because I'm not sure

Edited January 26, 2009 by Ghost Train

[shiroikaze]

You could use a wire cutter/pliers to cut the parts out.

I think it's better you paint first, then seal it with a gloss coat. Then add panels lines and decals and another gloss coat before adding a matte coat. I can't really tell you which coating spray to use since I'll be using Future from an airbrush. Sorry about that.

As for the enamels, are they still liquid?

@Ghost Train: By the way, do you wait for the gloss coat to fully dry before adding decals?

Edited January 27, 2009 by shiroikaze

[edwin3060]

@Ghost Train: By the way, do you wait for the gloss coat to fully dry before adding decals?

I'm not Ghost Train, but yes. You should also try to ensure that no dust gets onto the gloss coat when it is drying.

[shiroikaze]

Thanks Edwin

[Cent]

yea the enamels are still liquid. Some have separated into the oil layer.

So the order I would be doing things is like this?

1. cut & sand prepare the parts. - I understand this easily enough...

2. prime the surface - Prime the surface? With some sort of Primer coat? I've never primed models in my life. I've primed my back deck, but I think thats kinda different.

3. spray on your base color - Is it okay if I just brush it on? Will the brush leave streak lines that will be noticable? Enamel paint? What specific parts/sections do you guys suggest painting, rather than relying on the natural plastic color? I'm working with the VF-25F.

4. spray a layer of gloss. - What kind of gloss paint should I be looking for?

5. Do your decals and wash lines - Decals first, then panel lines?

6. spray a layer of flat to cover up the glosiness.

thanks ghost

Edited January 27, 2009 by Cent

[Ghost Train]

yea the enamels are still liquid. Some have separated into the oil layer.

So the order I would be doing things is like this?

1. cut & sand prepare the parts. - I understand this easily enough...

2. prime the surface - Prime the surface? With some sort of Primer coat? I've never primed models in my life. I've primed my back deck, but I think thats kinda different.

3. spray on your base color - Is it okay if I just brush it on? Will the brush leave streak lines that will be noticable? Enamel paint? What specific parts/sections do you guys suggest painting, rather than relying on the natural plastic color? I'm working with the VF-25F.

4. spray a layer of gloss. - What kind of gloss paint should I be looking for?

5. Do your decals and wash lines - Decals first, then panel lines?

6. spray a layer of flat to cover up the glosiness.

thanks ghost

2-For the priming, I honestly just included in the step for correctness sake... 50% of my kits are not primed actually . The idea is that basically you want a layer of "primer" so that the layer of actual paint you want sticks and clings more easily to the surface. But when I do prime I use Tamiya Surface Primer, which coats the parts in a nice neutral gray color prior to applying actual paint.

3-As for the brush painting, I have very little experience in this area, I mostly just manually brush very small areas or parts and for touch-ups in case paint gets damaged in the assembly process... and for larger areas stick to airbrushing... but traditional brushing can be done, but some sort of spraying is better XD.

The VF-25 (both) actually looks great even without a drop of paint. If you browse through the 1/72 vf-25 model thread in the model kit section you will find lots of awesome looking kits that are pretty much just panel-lined, decaled/or stickered, with almost no paint.

4-For the gloss layer, I was referring to clear-gloss. So it's basically a transparent paint with glossy characteristics.

5-If you're using some sort of wash solution for the panel lines I'd advise doing the lining first, then decal. You will be wiping off wash errors as you go along so don't want to accidentally tear off a decal. I use a Sumiree Gundam Marker which is kinda the same thing as a wash but a bit less messy.

Edited January 27, 2009 by Ghost Train

[vf2ss]

Hi Guys,

I know that the pieces have to be washed prior to priming and painting, but I wanted to know if it's normal to wash the pieces after some of the pieces have been glued and puttied. I would think that washing the pieces after that might make the putty brittle or come off completely, especially if it's washed with an old toothbrush or something similar. It's been awhile since I've put a model together and I don't remember how I did it the first time, but it turned out well.

[shiroikaze]

Well, the glue came off of my F-18 test model fairly easily... I don't think it's a good idea to wash them after you have done that... but nevertheless, I am a noob.

But I did read some people actually primed and painted their models without washing them...

[edit] At some point, I need to compile some sort tutorial/FAQ all in one convenient thread so anyone who is new or people who have forgotten can look it up easily...

Edited January 29, 2009 by shiroikaze

[jardann]

Well Shiro, even though this subject comes up often, there are many sites with dedicated sections or threads that give basic tips and guidelines for new model builders. If you want to create your own tutorial then by all means, go for it, but the resources are pretty much out there already.

It is often a good idea to rewash a kit after the build process. As you handle the kit your fingers will leave skin oils on the plastic. Sanding/scraping may leave plastic particles in unwanted places. Or dust may just have built up. You should be able to wash and rinse a model kit carefully with no problem. Do this before adding small parts such as landing gear or antennae etc. I don't know what kind of glue you were using, but normal model solvent type or super glues or even putties should not weaken or crack under a gentle cleaning with mild soap and water. Just make sure the glue and putty have had a day or more to completely set up and cure. There are also some products, I think one is called Plastic Prep that can be used with a swab or something to go over the plastic of a kit to clean and prepare it for painting.

The best advice for new kit builders though is just to build some stuff. Be aware that your first projects aren't going to be WM Cheng masterpieces, but enjoy the process and try to learn something new from each experience. Pretty soon, you will know what works for you and will be able to spot problems before they arise.

[shiroikaze]

Well Shiro, even though this subject comes up often, there are many sites with dedicated sections or threads that give basic tips and guidelines for new model builders. If you want to create your own tutorial then by all means, go for it, but the resources are pretty much out there already.

It is often a good idea to rewash a kit after the build process. As you handle the kit your fingers will leave skin oils on the plastic. Sanding/scraping may leave plastic particles in unwanted places. Or dust may just have built up. You should be able to wash and rinse a model kit carefully with no problem. Do this before adding small parts such as landing gear or antennae etc. I don't know what kind of glue you were using, but normal model solvent type or super glues or even putties should not weaken or crack under a gentle cleaning with mild soap and water. Just make sure the glue and putty have had a day or more to completely set up and cure. There are also some products, I think one is called Plastic Prep that can be used with a swab or something to go over the plastic of a kit to clean and prepare it for painting.

The best advice for new kit builders though is just to build some stuff. Be aware that your first projects aren't going to be WM Cheng masterpieces, but enjoy the process and try to learn something new from each experience. Pretty soon, you will know what works for you and will be able to spot problems before they arise.

Mmm, you're right. Maybe I wasn't looking hard enough or I was overthinking the methods... I looked at some tutorials at the time and sometimes I felt they left out certain things because it's common knowledge already or only touched upon certain aspects of modeling. I would have a bunch of questions about small things, like for example, I would read a tutorial that includes a step of washing/scrubbing resin parts in soapy solutions whereas another tutorial would not touch upon it at all, and so on.

Also, I don't remember what glue I used--I actually took apart an old model that I built many years ago and washed it--there was some glue holding one of the fins to the body, and it dissolved in the soapy water, it must've been white glue since I was a kid who didn't know any better... But I didn't know that those kind of glues and putty as well would not be phased by soapy water. Now I know alot better thanks to you.

Another question about glue/cement and putty (and I probably guess it's true), do both of them have to be used in conjunction to join two pieces together and get rid of the seams? You can't really use putty by itself to do just that right?

And finally, I realize that my first couple of model kits won't turn out as awesome as WM Cheng's or everyone elses' models, but it's worth the try.

Thanks Jardann.

Also, sorry VF2SS for giving you misinformation...

[jardann]

All of these questions are valid and please feel free to continue asking or ask for clarification if you don't understand something that's been said here.

You will need glue to join two parts of a model. Putty alone will not be strong enough. In fact, if a model has very good fitting parts, you may not need any putty. Just a little bit of glue and a light sanding is sometimes all it takes. (not usually when I build a model though )

For resin kits you will need super glue (cyanoacrylate glue) to hold the parts together. Sometimes people use a two part epoxy for resin kits too (especially for bigger parts that need a very strong bond) Then you may still need some putty to smooth out any seams or flaws etc.

I would suggest you stick with plastic kits at first. I use the Testors (I think it is Model Master) brand model cement in the black bottle with black label. It has a long metal tube applicator that works pretty well and is convenient. Stay away from the bottle with the orange label though! It has a plastic tube that will clog up after one or two uses and is just a worthless PITA!

As it is, you can really get as involved or as simple as you want with a kit. With just an exacto knife and some model glue you can get a model assembled without too many problems. Add some paint at the appropriate points and you can get it to a very nice finish. As you practice, your skills will improve and you will be able to add new tools and techniques to your process.

[Vifam7]

I have a question on the use of putty.

What should I use to make it thin? Putty straight out of the tube is too dry. I want to liquify it a bit so it goes into the seams better. I've been mixing the putty with a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and it works rather well. Still, I'm wondering if I should use something else.

[jardann]

Using Tamiya cement for thinning putty is supposed to be a good method, though I've never done it myself. Just be sure to put it on in thin layers so that the solvent in the cement doesn't melt or warp the underlying plastic.

Another product to use is Mr Surfacer (if you have a LHS that carries it, or can get it over the internet.) Places like Michaels or Hobby Lobby will not have it. It is basically thinned putty and it comes in three grades that range from an extra think paint consistency to something that is almost thin enough to airbrush. The thinner stuff is supposed to be a great primer, while the thicker stuff works as a nice thin putty for filling small seams and surface imperfections. It is pretty strong stuff though, and needs to be thinned with lacquer thinner or it's own specific brand of thinning compound.

[shiroikaze]

Curious, why does Tamiya regular cement come in a 20ml bottle whereas the extra-thin cement comes in a 40ml bottle?

Also, what is that? Is it a light? A reflector? A warning color?

Edited January 31, 2009 by shiroikaze

[edwin3060]

No idea.. But the whole thing is a wing fence and it has thrusters on the top surface and some sort of attachment point (probably for the Super pods) on the bottom surface. Might be lights, or more sensors, or ECM equipment.

[shiroikaze]

I think I'll assume them to be sensors, thanks Edwin.

[edwin3060]

You're welcome! I'm actually hoping that more information will come out in future Macross Chronicles...or a TIAS:MF (my dream!)

[MechTech]

If you're still looking for a good putty to thin out, I've used Milliput for years. The white stuff is the best in terms of texure and it white like your styrene. Once you knead it together, you can use water over the surface to smooth it and the water softens it up some. It dries rock hard though. Sanding it next to styrene may produce thinner styrene areas depending on where you're using it. - MT

[anime52k8]

No idea.. But the whole thing is a wing fence and it has thrusters on the top surface and some sort of attachment point (probably for the Super pods) on the bottom surface. Might be lights, or more sensors, or ECM equipment.

the macrossy explanation would be that there some kind of fancy sensor or ECM antenna or something. but I'd like to think there just

fancy shaped Formation lights

[shiroikaze]

What exactly are formation lights? Are they basically the same as the running lights on the wingtips as well as the light on the vertical fin?