Vifam7 Posted November 1, 2008 Posted November 1, 2008 I would greatly appreciate if some one could give me some tips on how to build those "metallic plate" kits. Such as the 1/144 Imai 4-type "special coating" Valk kits and certain Gunplas like the Hyaku-shiki and Akatsuki. Specifically I'd like to know whether I can panel-line/paint over the coating and how safe it is to use thinner on top of the coating (to remove paint that went outside the lines). Thanks. Quote
Excillon Posted November 2, 2008 Posted November 2, 2008 I would greatly appreciate if some one could give me some tips on how to build those "metallic plate" kits. Such as the 1/144 Imai 4-type "special coating" Valk kits and certain Gunplas like the Hyaku-shiki and Akatsuki. Specifically I'd like to know whether I can panel-line/paint over the coating and how safe it is to use thinner on top of the coating (to remove paint that went outside the lines). Thanks. I did an LM-HG special coating EVA 01 last year, and didn't have any problems lining it, but then I used a Gundam marker. I wouldn't know about thinner on it. Quote
anime52k8 Posted November 2, 2008 Posted November 2, 2008 I would greatly appreciate if some one could give me some tips on how to build those "metallic plate" kits. Such as the 1/144 Imai 4-type "special coating" Valk kits and certain Gunplas like the Hyaku-shiki and Akatsuki. Specifically I'd like to know whether I can panel-line/paint over the coating and how safe it is to use thinner on top of the coating (to remove paint that went outside the lines). Thanks. you mean the one's that come from the factory "Chrome" plated? I have no idea about panel lining them, as I've never tried that. regular paint does not adhere well to it and most modeling cement will damage the finish and not adhere well to it, and paint thinner will usually damage it. the best advice I can give you is to strip the stuff off and paint the kit. usually when I have kit's like that I strip the finish off then paint the kit with chrome paint. it's actually quite easy to strip crome, just get a couple cans of coke, poor them into a tub or bucket. then drop the parts in and let them soak for a couple days. Quote
cowie165 Posted November 2, 2008 Posted November 2, 2008 you mean the one's that come from the factory "Chrome" plated? I have no idea about panel lining them, as I've never tried that. regular paint does not adhere well to it and most modeling cement will damage the finish and not adhere well to it, and paint thinner will usually damage it. the best advice I can give you is to strip the stuff off and paint the kit. usually when I have kit's like that I strip the finish off then paint the kit with chrome paint. it's actually quite easy to strip crome, just get a couple cans of coke, poor them into a tub or bucket. then drop the parts in and let them soak for a couple days. +1 for everything Mike said. I remember seeing a MWer use Coke to strip back a metallic SDF-Macross and repaint in metallics. If you don't, you're stuck with those nasty seam lines that make the end product look like poo. You're probably safe with acrylic thinners to do panel lines. Test it somewhere out of sight. If that doesn't work, try water-based artists paints instead. Can't go wrong there Quote
MechTech Posted November 2, 2008 Posted November 2, 2008 I can help you a little, but I'm not sure to the extent of your question. I started out hating to build car kits for this reason (the plating). 1) Carefully sand the seams to remove the coating. 2) If you use superglue anywhere, clean all the surfaces thoroughly. Test the sprues first. Isopropyl alcohol may be safe, but usually strips the coloring off of chrome plating. Like simulated gold plating is just yellow over chrome plating (think Gundam kits). Chrome picks up superglue fingerprints superbly! 3) You can pretty well cover up seams with a like colored metalic marker. They're not a 100%, but neither is the idea of chrome plating an entire model! 4) And yes if you hate the plating, one guy soaked his in Coke. I know Coke is great for cleaning bumpers (phosphoric acid content in most runs of Coke is high). 4) Don't buy special coated models (I don't for all these reasons). - MT Quote
Vifam7 Posted November 2, 2008 Author Posted November 2, 2008 Thanks guys for the advice. I know I should strip the chrome plating but this time around I want to keep the sparkling shiny coating on. It's a HG Oowashi Akatsuki Gundam ^^; I generally hate "special coating" kits too. But this one I thought looked quite nice in sparkly gold. Probably because it's a Seed mecha and not something from UC. Thank goodness the MG Hyakushiki is not gold chrome plated. Quote
Valkyrie addict Posted November 7, 2008 Posted November 7, 2008 why would anyone buy this special chrome plated kits to strip them off and paint them? why not just buy the regular version of this kits I know when finish the seams and gaps will look like sh!t, why are these things even produced? Quote
Vifam7 Posted November 7, 2008 Author Posted November 7, 2008 why would anyone buy this special chrome plated kits to strip them off and paint them? why not just buy the regular version of this kits Some kits only come this way. I know when finish the seams and gaps will look like sh!t, why are these things even produced? Apparently some people actually like it. These special chrome plate kits have been around for some time. Quote
anime52k8 Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 what Vifam7 said, sometimes they only come in chrome (like the hyaku-shiki gundam) other time's chrome versions are the only version's you can find. also a lot of kit's that aren't metallic finish kit's still have fake chrome parts. Quote
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