David Hingtgen Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 That looks a whole lot more blue (and less grey) than the kit parts. Also seems to only be available in a spray. I just want to brush-paint a few small bits.
David Hingtgen Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 I'd be will to do a build up if it would help you out. Canopy painting build-up! (you'd probably get to it before I get around to doing mine--I plan to save the canopy for last at this point and do/attach it when everything else is done)
honkhet Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 I just finished my "Super Alto Messiah"... and I used "Tamiya German Grey" (TS-4) for Fast Pack could you show a pic of the side of your super messiah in jet mode? i want to see how the legs are extended for jet mode, as no matter how hard i try, i cant really match the side profile of the legs as shown in the instructions :S shown here is the pic of the side profile with the part that i cannot match: note as highlighted the sharp edge of the upper leg armor should be inside the fast pack armor for the lower leg. mine looks like this: wonder if anyone else had this issue?
onderon Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 Ranka lee decal with the upcoming VF-25G. Does that mean it will come with a ton of decals cos I think it has the sheryl ones as well =P
azrael Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 could you show a pic of the side of your super messiah in jet mode? i want to see how the legs are extended for jet mode, as no matter how hard i try, i cant really match the side profile of the legs as shown in the instructions :S shown here is the pic of the side profile with the part that i cannot match: note as highlighted the sharp edge of the upper leg armor should be inside the fast pack armor for the lower leg. mine looks like this: wonder if anyone else had this issue? Can you take a picture of it without the port-side booster? Might make it easier to compare.
honkhet Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 Can you take a picture of it without the port-side booster? Might make it easier to compare. okok i'll take one when i get back home from work today
nylcbv Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 could you show a pic of the side of your super messiah in jet mode? i want to see how the legs are extended for jet mode, as no matter how hard i try, i cant really match the side profile of the legs as shown in the instructions Here is the side profile with and without booster of "Fast Pack"...
honkhet Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) yup, urs is the same as mine. this is what i am trying to point out, the sharp edge of your upper leg armor is exposed as highlighted: but if you notice the instructions carfelly, the sharp edge is supposed to be hidden inside the fast pack armor. i really cant find any way to make it look exactly like in the instructions diagram: Edited March 18, 2009 by honkhet
protostar8 Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 Okay. So I looked into how to properly apply the decals and I can do a fair job, but the "round" area ones like on the radar dish don't seem to work well. It really seems like they are not made properly and seem a little to small to cover the area intended. Anyone else notice any trouble with the Luca decals?
alfye Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 could you show a pic of the side of your super messiah in jet mode? i want to see how the legs are extended for jet mode, as no matter how hard i try, i cant really match the side profile of the legs as shown in the instructions :S I use "gerwalk articulation", looks like instructions pics
honkhet Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 thanks for the pointer, i gotta go home and try that today
David Hingtgen Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 I just now got around to decaling the shoulders (you know which decal) and am wondering--is it possible to actually get them to look good? I consider myself quite good at decaling (the only modeling skill I think I actually have) but these are just insane--if anything, they're actually too large IMHO. Should I have literally cut corners? (slits to allow to conform). I think it might have been better if they just gave us a long thin stripe, and let us wrap it around the outside. Seriously, anyone get the shoulder striping to look as nice as Bandai's example? (I wonder if those were painted on--they seem smaller than the provided decal)
promethuem5 Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Are you talking a sticker decal of the waterslide decal? There's no shame in using a few strategic slits to get a waterslide decal to conform to an awkward surface... it's often how decals made my a smart person are designed to be used.
protostar8 Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 I just now got around to decaling the shoulders (you know which decal) and am wondering--is it possible to actually get them to look good? I consider myself quite good at decaling (the only modeling skill I think I actually have) but these are just insane--if anything, they're actually too large IMHO. Should I have literally cut corners? (slits to allow to conform). I think it might have been better if they just gave us a long thin stripe, and let us wrap it around the outside. Seriously, anyone get the shoulder striping to look as nice as Bandai's example? (I wonder if those were painted on--they seem smaller than the provided decal) Heh, I was just posting about decal issues. I now see I'm not alone...
DWN013 Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 I just now got around to decaling the shoulders (you know which decal) and am wondering--is it possible to actually get them to look good? I consider myself quite good at decaling (the only modeling skill I think I actually have) but these are just insane--if anything, they're actually too large IMHO. Should I have literally cut corners? (slits to allow to conform). I think it might have been better if they just gave us a long thin stripe, and let us wrap it around the outside. Seriously, anyone get the shoulder striping to look as nice as Bandai's example? (I wonder if those were painted on--they seem smaller than the provided decal) If you're talking about the hexagons, I have a simple trick: remove the hexagonal stripes and the black inner filler hexagon as one from the sticker sheet. Apply these, then remove the inner hexagon. By doing this, my ozma's shoulders look a hell of alot better than my Alto's.
regult Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Here's what I did with the Ozma, I kind of worked as I went instead of doing everything at once. I'll post some pictures of how it all came out, I'm just at work at the moment. This all worked for me because I built the Alto already and basiclally made it out of the box with just minimal painting, so I had an idea of how the kit went together and could really break it down into sections. Chris Thanks Chris for the prompt reply. I already built the Alto a long while ago and had a terrible experience with the decals since I left them exposed with no clear coat...and they were all quite "digested" by Mr. Mark Setter. Thanks to a fellow member I have an extra set of decals for the Alto paintjob and I also got he superpack combo...maybe someday I will start building it up, so your step-by-step would be greatly appreciated. I don't own an airbrush and due to lack of space it is impossible to get a decent one...I am amazed that a rattle can can do the trick, so I am now taking a reassuring look at the 3 unbuilt kits.
David Hingtgen Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 If you're talking about the hexagons, I have a simple trick: remove the hexagonal stripes and the black inner filler hexagon as one from the sticker sheet. Apply these, then remove the inner hexagon. By doing this, my ozma's shoulders look a hell of alot better than my Alto's. I had to read that two or three times before I realized you're talking about the stickers. I'm decaling. Anyways, comparing to the "perfect" one Bandai has, I think I actually put them on too high--need to be 1mm lower or so. And I know where slits need to be put now. Luckily I have a second sheet. (though actually, I could use a THIRD head stripe--the white stripes are positioned right over the seam between the red and black pieces, and won't "bridge the gap" without excess clear--which I trimmed off because on the first one, the excess clear really wouldn't snuggle down and showed up sharply against the black! So without the clear, they keep falling into the seam---Arrrgh). (I'm really trying to get the head to look perfect, as it's important). Can anyone spare an Alto "head stripe" decal, you who've used the stickers instead? (if Bandai had just put the white stripes on the other side of the seam, like 0.25mm further in, they'd work perfect as-is)
promethuem5 Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Well, if you're not filling whatever the seam is, you could just slit the white decal along the seam so it sits on the two parts alright as well.
DarkReaper Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 The shoulder decals worked relatively fine on mine even though I also wasn't able to put them on perfectly straight and even. All the excess clear was absolutely covered in decal setter so that it can adhere to 90° angles. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/rea...pg?t=1237494904 The right shoulder decal was ripped while transforming it from battroid to fighter.
mrsmithz Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 The shoulder decals worked relatively fine on mine even though I also wasn't able to put them on perfectly straight and even. All the excess clear was absolutely covered in decal setter so that it can adhere to 90° angles. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/rea...pg?t=1237494904 The right shoulder decal was ripped while transforming it from battroid to fighter. Also a suggestion if anybody messes up like i did with my vf-25s decals. Do a high rez scan of the waterslide decal sheet. Get something like testors clear decal paper and print. Was able to redecal an entire model this way by recoloring some of the vf-25f decals. Also as an added bonus I was able to make some custom decals. BTW can someone post a high res scan of vf-25s?
David Hingtgen Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Either option for the head striping requires a new one. I may sacrifice double-decaling the tailfins, and use some thin white strips trimmed from them to add to the head striping.
mrsmithz Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 (edited) Either option for the head striping requires a new one. I may sacrifice double-decaling the tailfins, and use some thin white strips trimmed from them to add to the head striping. print and decal away... anybody got vf-25S decal scan? bah my scan wont attach... but I have a full scan of the vf-25f decals if anybody needs it. Edited March 19, 2009 by mrsmithz
David Hingtgen Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Second attempt at shoulders went MUCH better. Will be doing several more apps of MicroSol to really get the last "crinkles" out of course. Fixed the head striping---got lucky and my first attempt at slicing out super-thin super-parallel white stripes worked great. (the stripes are about 0.5-xacto-blades-thick) Tailfin red parts: I painted the antenna spikes at the tips and along the top edge, but it still wasn't enough---decal's too small, edges all along the fin show a lot of black. (just like the ventral fin decals) Will touch up edges with paint after decaling. (I've got a perfect red paint match, it's just the black shows through even after like 6 coats) I'd have really liked white-molded fins--could paint/decal the red parts much easier, and just paint all the black---and would have had a white fin hinge area too. Going to paint the big "crescent" of black on the chest, too. Didn't like how the decal fit.
westfall Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Second attempt at shoulders went MUCH better. Will be doing several more apps of MicroSol to really get the last "crinkles" out of course. Fixed the head striping---got lucky and my first attempt at slicing out super-thin super-parallel white stripes worked great. (the stripes are about 0.5-xacto-blades-thick) Tailfin red parts: I painted the antenna spikes at the tips and along the top edge, but it still wasn't enough---decal's too small, edges all along the fin show a lot of black. (just like the ventral fin decals) Will touch up edges with paint after decaling. (I've got a perfect red paint match, it's just the black shows through even after like 6 coats) I'd have really liked white-molded fins--could paint/decal the red parts much easier, and just paint all the black---and would have had a white fin hinge area too. Going to paint the big "crescent" of black on the chest, too. Didn't like how the decal fit. Until i read your post about the head stripes, i hadn't even noticed there was a decal/sticker for that. To be honest i hadn't paid much atention to the decal/sticker sheets. And i'm glad i hadn't, i probably would have taken the "easy" way out and applied the head stripe sticker (i don't do well with decals). But because i hadn't noticed, i actually painted two thin white stripes and used a few creative techniques to detail that section. And the green and red bits (sensors or lights, i believe) in the gunpod were painted too and i think they look better than with the foil sticker. I guess i'll just keep pushing myself and use the decals/stickers only when absolutely necessary. Here's some pics (sorry for the lousy photografer skills)
westfall Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Just got a visit from the mailman with 2 boxes from HLJ. Super Parts and RVF-25. Awesome piece of plastic. And now i'm torn. I've been holding back on building the VF-25F till the SPs got here but while i was waiting the idea of a standalone VF-25F has been growing on me. It looks like a bad-ass with the Super Parts but it's sleaker and easier to transform as a standalone. What do you guys think?
alfye Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 (edited) One with SP, and another one stand alone. I need more kits thoug hehe Transform/pose/balance SP Messiah´s is a headache, I'm thinking about the future armor pack and its considerable weight ... I have a dillema: 1/72? or 1/60 version of Armor Pack?, only one of them, pros & cons. For me, with 1/72 VF-25 SP experience in my back, DX wins right now. Edited March 20, 2009 by alfye
westfall Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 One with SP, and another one stand alone. I need more kit thoug hehe Transform/pose/balance SP Messiah´s is a headache, I'm thinking about the future armor pack and its considerable weight ... Yeah, that's what i was thinking but to buy another 25F, i'll probably get the bundle wich has the red parts molded in color. So... what to do with these Super Parts? My display idea was Alto with SP, Ozma with Armored, Luca standalone (with the extra parts it has and the ghosts it looks good on its own) and Michel with either SP or standalone in Batroid mode, sniping. So i can either use them in Michel's VF or, and this is just a thought i had, have them displayed along with standalone 25F in a sort of hangar diorama scene, as if they were about to be assembled to the fighter. That way, i have the standalone 25F and i use the Super Parts. (Using them in Michel was always plan B). The DX as a toy piece is sturdier than the 1/72 but it seems the consensus is that the 1/72 have better proportions. The stability issues with the SPs arrise when you try to use this as you would the DX. Basicaly the 1/72 are to be built and used as display pieces, as you would with the Hasegawa Valks, the fact they can transform is just so we can actualy choose in wich mode to display them and ocasionaly change them. If used with an Action Base the Vf-25 seems to old better with the SPs, but as a display piece, once the right pose is found, you should handle it as little as possible. To fly around and transform often, then yes, the DX would be a better option. I still think that the 1/72 is more acurate and despite so all these posability issues, for its price tab, its a very good piece and one of the best engineared kits i've seen in a while.
alfye Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 (edited) Yes, i think like you, but im reffering to future Armor Parts, If SuperParts are a headache for me only trying to found the right pose on my ActionBase; then, with future ArmorParts mounted over a VF-25, his legs, arms and wings will drop like stones... Gravity Law... Now im modding SP kit to positioning the legs in place in fighter mode Edited March 20, 2009 by alfye
edwin3060 Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 (edited) If you are going to display in fighter mode, I'd go with the clean configuration because of the sleek lines of the fighter-- if displaying in Gerwalk mode, clean as well, since the Super parts will make the wings sag. If you like Battroid, then go with the Super packs. Also, nicely detailed painting, westfall! Edited March 20, 2009 by edwin3060
David Hingtgen Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Here's some pics (sorry for the lousy photografer skills) What'd you use to paint the green visor? That's the lightest green visor I've seen yet---mine came out much darker than I wanted.
Zinjo Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 (edited) Since we are talking about decals. Anyone equipped to take some deculture decals and reduce them to 1/100 scale? I want to buy a couple of the 1/100 scale toys and re-decal them with the deculture decals, but am not equipped to print decals. I can scan them in hires, but am not sure how to reduce them and am not able to print them. PM me if you are able and we can work out a deal of some sort. Edited March 20, 2009 by Zinjo
westfall Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 (edited) Yeah, the Armored Pack will be an heavy beast but because its almost a whole ship in itself i think that in fighter and gerwalk modes it might be a bit more solid than the Super Pack. In batroid mode it might hold up a bit better but because of all the armor it will probably be less posable. I intend to have Armored Pack for Ozma only and i plan to display it in gerwalk (episode 2, 1st act is just burned into my mind). What'd you use to paint the green visor? That's the lightest green visor I've seen yet---mine came out much darker than I wanted. Transparent Green Vallejo Model Color straight from the bottle. Paint brush dabbed in Future, then in the paint and just brushed the part, inside and out. Edited March 20, 2009 by westfall
David Hingtgen Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 OK, I definitely have to get some Vallejo transparent paint, that's the second time now I've seen "really nice results" from it on a VF-25.
promethuem5 Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 Tamiya transparent paints are great too, but Vallejo's a better all around line to get behind IMO.
alfye Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 ...(episode 2, 1st act is just burned into my mind)... Hehehe my favorite chapter I will be conform If i can pose the modelkit like this screenshot without actionbase: Im so special. I consider stand/actionbases for "flying poses only": But actionbase is indispensable when SP kit is fitted over VF-25´s. Now i use it as a crane because my "gerwalk articulations" doesnt support the weight of superpatrs and falling backwards...and this I do not like at all...
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