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Posted
One thing to note is that Gundam marker (GM02) is lacquer based.

Thanks for the info. So my stupid attempt at removing a panel line with Mr. Thinner (which incidentally completely removed the acrylic base paint) wasn't so stupid after all. ^_^

Posted (edited)

Thanks everyone for all the input. Here are some pictures of how the "REMOVED" gundam marker turned out. I say "REMOVED" because it is really dark when it was applied and I had to use a strong substance....ie Nail polish Remover....to get it to this level. I only used the GM on the tan portions of the body behind the Orange area and the wings. The rest of the paneling was done with a nice sharp mechanical pencil.....trying to balance things out and I didn't want to risk damaging the rest of the plane with a strong solovent to remove the GM. Notice the areas on the right wing (the one with the 102 on it) all around the 102 and near the root you can see the slight miscoloration. I would definately NOT recomend using the GM that I used on a v2 yammie. I'll try a different thinner on the effected areas but if that doesn't work I'll just seal the whole thing and live with it. Learn from my mistake everyone!!! :wacko: and thank you for your help, advice, and the slightly off topic nature in this thread.

Chris

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Edited by Dobber
Posted
Thanks everyone for all the input. Here are some pictures of how the "REMOVED" gundam marker turned out. I say "REMOVED" because it is really dark when it was applied and I had to use a strong substance....ie Nail polish Remover....to get it to this level. I only used the GM on the tan portions of the body behind the Orange area and the wings. The rest of the paneling was done with a nice sharp mechanical pencil.....trying to balance things out and I didn't want to risk damaging the rest of the plane with a strong solovent to remove the GM. Notice the areas on the right wing (the one with the 102 on it) all around the 102 and near the root you can see the slight miscoloration. I would definately NOT recomend using the GM that I used on a v2 yammie. I'll try a different thinner on the effected areas but if that doesn't work I'll just seal the whole thing and live with it. Learn from my mistake everyone!!! :wacko: and thank you for your help, advice, and the slightly off topic nature in this thread.

Chris

You should really just post this in the 1/60 v2 thread as well just so that more people will know about it ;) Thanks for your sacrifice!

Posted (edited)

How cruel....my super parts arrived today (with a gundam gm02 pen), but my Luca still hasn't b/c HLJ put my order into two boxes, which both shipped at the same time eventhough my Luca isn't here yet....

Oh, and to Chris, did you try an eraser? I mean the little things on pencils? It wipes the gundam marker I have right off, just like a sharpie. I know it sounds crazy, but it works for me. Then again, I'm using it on model kit plastic.

Also, where might one find a "Micron Pigma" pen? I couldn't really find anything I thought would be good for panel lines, but I may have overlooked it.

Edited by protostar8
Posted (edited)

hi guys,

here's my mini review of the super messiah model kit.

first thing's first,

here are the pics of the parts needed to be replaced from your regular vf-25.

quite alot of work here. the whole area near the intakes of the jet mode need to be replaced.

the groin area of the robot mode needs to be rebuilt.

also, the side armor and back armor for the legs need to be replaced.

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but i'm really loving the new shield. here's a comparison between the super parts shield and the original shield:

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transformation

if you found the vf-25 transformation a pain, then the super messiah is even more so. still, it is pretty much the same steps, with 2 additional pegs for the missle pods needed to be added when you're in robot mode. the entire leg armor also has to be removed when you want to access the peg to extend the feet out. surprisingly this was quite easy to remove, compared to flipping open the leg armor of the original vf-25. i would advise to remove the wing boosters first whenever you attempt to transform it, even though you do not have to. this is to reduce the strain on the wing joints, as the joints are rather small.

battroid mode

this mode can barely stand by itself due to the weight of the wing boosters at the back. even after you get it balanced, it WILL topple over anytime. you really need a display stand for robot mode, simply no other way. anyhow, it looks freaking awesome!!! a wholesome upgrade for the messiah indeed.

i love the pose when even after equipping these super awesome super parts, the weapon of choice is still the good ol' combat knife.

looks darn stupid, yet absolutely stylish at the same time!

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gerwalk mode

unfortunately, gerwalk mode was simply non-existent for me.

the weight of the boosters is simply too much to bear and the whole wing portion just flops down in gerwalk mode.

you may be able to use super glue residue to create enough friction for it to stay up.

but i am not going to do that for now...

i am pretty amazed by those ppl who are able to get GERWALK mode to work with the super parts on, and have seen a few pictures.

BUT i am really not surprised as to although we have already seen the Ozma vf-25s with ARMOR PACK model kit pics,

NONE of them shows the GERWALK mode... if anyone has seen one do let me know :)

Edited by honkhet
Posted (edited)

jet mode

this is the mode where it really shines. simply can't describe how breathtakingly beautiful it is, i only hope the pics i posted here do it justice. this is where you get the ultimate satisfaction from adding the super parts. i was also pleasantly surprised that the legs do hold up pretty well when the jet is posed on a display stand.

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and yes, its still the same gunpod+peg that holds it!!

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still, i feel its best that it should be on its landing gear. and this is the way my super messiah will be displayed for a long time.

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conclusion

by all means, do get the super parts! its simply beautiful and everybody will go WOW when they see it on your display (well, almost everybody).

if you are thetype of guy who just likes displaying your model kit and not transforming them alot, then you should get super parts for all your vf-25 except of course for ozma.

but i would not recommend getting more than 2 if you like to play alot with your model kit (like i do). after experiencing the transformation with the super parts on, the original non-super parts model seems a whole lot more easy to transform and durable now.

the main let downs is the non-existent gerwalk mode. i dont want to pretend that i can live with that... but nothing much can be done.

also the robot mode unable to stand very well is a minor issue, as all you need is a cheap gundam display stand.

Verdict (For the super messiah as a whole)

As a toy: 7/10

As a model: 10/10

I had to put 2 types of ratings to be fair.

I know its a model kit in strict sense, but there are people (like me) getting it as a cheaper alternative to the DX toy.

It's awesome beauty, awesome value for money as a model.

but as a toy it has some glaring flaws and not so playable. when the awesomeness dies down, i know i will prefer a vf-25 with NO super parts.

Edited by honkhet
Posted (edited)
...I know they're technically better looking on Alto - but does anybody have any pictures of Ozma's VF-25S 1/72 with Sheryl Nome decals?...

Pete

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From SGCollect.com Forum

Honkhet, thank you very much for the REVIEW, but i´m sad reading that with SP we lose a good gerwalk mode

Edited by alfye
Posted (edited)

has anyone here tried to build one of these kits as a strait fighter mode only model? I'm wondering how that would turn out and if anyone has some suggestions/warnings for attempting that

Edited by anime52k8
Posted

Honkhet, how did you color the missile covers. Did they include stickers or did you paint them? Are they the same sort of stickers as used on the crotch piece?

Still unsure whether to paint mine or sticker them up.

Posted (edited)

Sweet! I was tempted by the Ranka decal kits going for extravagant prices on Ebay awhile back, glad I held off--- I hope it comes with the VF-25G since Ngee Khiong says end of March release!

Edited by edwin3060
Posted
Honkhet, how did you color the missile covers. Did they include stickers or did you paint them? Are they the same sort of stickers as used on the crotch piece?

Still unsure whether to paint mine or sticker them up.

i used only the normal stickers (not the water ones) for my model, they do the job pretty decently... they include stickers and water decals for all 4 colors (yellow, red, blue, green)

although if you could find the correct paint color, i would recommend to paint it as its only 4 small parts to paint.

i am planning to replace my stickers with the water decals later on when i have time,

using mr. hobby's mark setter and some clear coat for protection.

the good thing about water decals is that you can adjust it as much as you want to get a perfect fit before allowing it to dry :)

Posted

Pigma Micron pens can be found at most any craft store. Hobby Lobby, Michael's, Ben Franklin. Also, college/university bookstores will usually have them in the art supplies section.

Posted
Pigma Micron pens can be found at most any craft store. Hobby Lobby, Michael's, Ben Franklin. Also, college/university bookstores will usually have them in the art supplies section.

I guess I just overlooked it at my local michael's (only hobby store close to me). I'll definitely go look again, though the Gundam marker GM02 is working pretty well.

Today, my Luca arrived, and just like in the pictures, the canopy isn't precolored. What route would people suggest going to make the canopy yellow? Highlighter? Some form of paint?

Posted
I guess I just overlooked it at my local michael's (only hobby store close to me). I'll definitely go look again, though the Gundam marker GM02 is working pretty well.

Today, my Luca arrived, and just like in the pictures, the canopy isn't precolored. What route would people suggest going to make the canopy yellow? Highlighter? Some form of paint?

When I made Master Grade Gundam models, I used a green/orange/whatever color Sharpie on the inside of the clear visor parts.

Posted

Here's a question for those that have the Super Pack.

Do the bars that the shoulder missile packs sit on in Battroid mode have to be removed for fighter mode?

Graham

Posted
Here's a question for those that have the Super Pack.

Do the bars that the shoulder missile packs sit on in Battroid mode have to be removed for fighter mode?

Graham

Yeah, they do. They're the only new parts that have to be removed for switching modes, despite what the instructions show

Posted
Nice.. I wonder how he got that nice metallic sheen onto it? Is it just metallic paint?

Also, that poor squashed head proves that the 1/72 looks worse than the DX ^_^ (I know it's mistransformed for all those who don't have a sense of humour :p)

2 ways to do it. Get blue metalic paint spray airbrush and then gloss coat. Or use metallic chrome and then use a clear blue on top of it.

Clear blue can be a paint or future with blue dye.

DX hmmm it has no neck. lol

Posted (edited)
New Ranka decal, will come with VF-25F at end of march. source

Note that it has has some different art works compare to the limited version before:

http://anjerasu.wordpress.com/2008/12/07/m...25f-decultured/

I guess that's so that all those people who paid high prices for the limited version wouldn't be too pissed off. Still, I'm happy! I can have 2 display VF-25s now one Sheryl and one Ranka ala All that VF.

I guess the response to the Sheryl decals was very positive which is why Bandai is continuing these releases.

Edited by edwin3060
Posted

Just an update. IF YOU ARE BUILDING THE LUCA KIT....

I took the advice and used a sharpie substitute (Bic Mark*it Yellow Blaze) and it works great for the Luca cockpit coloring. Just coloring the inside worked very well. Also worked out great on the little piece right in front of the cockpit.

The Gundam GM02 pen for panel lines also works fairly well. An eraser takes off the excess with ease. Just gotta learn to use the right amount of pressure. I actually cut one up into different sizes/shapes that seem to help, thought keeping it square works best.

Sanding with 600grit sandpaper (wet), then 2000grit sandpaper (wet), and buffing with a sock (sometimes with a little toothpaste too if the shine doesn't come back all the way with just the sock) makes the parts nice and shiny again where the sprues were. That's after I use snippers to clip the parts from the sprue tree and then use an exacto knife to clean the part up.

Eventhough I've only built the nose of the plane, I gotta say I'm very impressed with the kit. I'm sure I'll be happy once it's built (and I get to built 3 ghosts to boot!)

Posted
Are the super packs removable and display in regular modes?

Depends on what you mean by removable-- You basically have to break down and rebuild about 25% of your model to put it in regular mode.

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