Master Dex Posted December 30, 2008 Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) What grade of sandpapers do you use to sand down and finish up parts? Do you dip the sand paper in water to clean off the excess residue from the plastic? Any big retailers or convience stores sell the testors dullcote? Wal-mart perhaps? I can't tell you much about sandpaper but I actually filed down the sprues with an emery board. Works very well, I've done this with many models. I pretty much stick to using the fine side though as I don't have much in the way of tabs remaining thanks to the precision of my Tamiya model cutters. On a random note I have made 1000 posts, yay me! I have graduated from bridge bunny to holding Global's Pipe.. mmm... this feels much more professional indeed. Edited December 30, 2008 by Master Dex
Vifam7 Posted December 30, 2008 Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) What grade of sandpapers do you use to sand down and finish up parts? Do you dip the sand paper in water to clean off the excess residue from the plastic? Any big retailers or convience stores sell the testors dullcote? Wal-mart perhaps? For basic sanding down of sprue marks, I'll use either use those red colored padded sandpaper found at Home Depot or nail filing sticks found at the local drugstore. To clean off excess plastic residue, I just use an old toothbrush. Testor's Dullcote and equivalents like Tamiya Clear Flat can be found at basically any local hobby store that sells plastic models. You can also order online at places like squadron.com or hobbylinc.com Edited December 30, 2008 by Vifam7
Guest sh002 Posted December 30, 2008 Posted December 30, 2008 excellent price on the super pack. can't wait to early bird preorder from hlj.
Guest sh002 Posted December 30, 2008 Posted December 30, 2008 here is my vf-25f standing next to other 1/72 valkyries
MegaX Posted December 31, 2008 Posted December 31, 2008 Hello! I'm a noob at modeling =P I was wondering if a .2 mm micron pen and a rubber eraser would be sufficient for those panel lines? Also what is this clear coat stuff? I already have Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter.
Master Dex Posted December 31, 2008 Posted December 31, 2008 Hello! I'm a noob at modeling =P I was wondering if a .2 mm micron pen and a rubber eraser would be sufficient for those panel lines? Also what is this clear coat stuff? I already have Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter. I don't know if that would work for panel lining or not but I'd go ahead and just get a gundam marker. I had a very easy time with it and if you mess up you can just rub it off with you thumb or fingers immediately and it comes right off. At first it seemed challenging to get in the lines but after a while I got used to it and it was very easy. Just once or twice I went outside a line and just wiped it off and continued. For reference I used a GP02 which is a grayish color that is dark enough to still be seen on the Ozma model (it was recommended by others in this topic). Although I had trouble finding it as it was sold out on a lot of sites and I eventually settled for buying it from Image Anime since I didn't want to wait to build the model, so I could have gotten it cheaper.
protostar8 Posted December 31, 2008 Posted December 31, 2008 (edited) I don't know if that would work for panel lining or not but I'd go ahead and just get a gundam marker. I had a very easy time with it and if you mess up you can just rub it off with you thumb or fingers immediately and it comes right off. At first it seemed challenging to get in the lines but after a while I got used to it and it was very easy. Just once or twice I went outside a line and just wiped it off and continued. For reference I used a GP02 which is a grayish color that is dark enough to still be seen on the Ozma model (it was recommended by others in this topic). Although I had trouble finding it as it was sold out on a lot of sites and I eventually settled for buying it from Image Anime since I didn't want to wait to build the model, so I could have gotten it cheaper. Just from looking online, the Gundam Markers look like lead pencils. Are the pictures just deceiving or are these things really just "Gundam brand" lead pencils? I mainly think that b/c the refill sets look like lead. Oh, and what's a reasonable price to pay for an Alto model now? On evilbay, they are about $70 shipped and I don't think they are worth that much (IMO), so I'm hoping they are just a price gougers. Edited December 31, 2008 by protostar8
Darth Mingus Posted December 31, 2008 Posted December 31, 2008 Just from looking online, the Gundam Markers look like lead pencils. Are the pictures just deceiving or are these things really just "Gundam brand" lead pencils? I mainly think that b/c the refill sets look like lead. Oh, and what's a reasonable price to pay for an Alto model now? On evilbay, they are about $70 shipped and I don't think they are worth that much (IMO), so I'm hoping they are just a price gougers. I had a friend look for me in San Francisco, one shop is charging $90 USD. A shop here in Montreal had it for $78 CDN but they are probably sold out. I got my VF-25S shipped from HWJapan for $68 CDN.
Kyp Durron Posted December 31, 2008 Posted December 31, 2008 Excellent write-up Master Dex. One extra step I'd recommend: When the core components are built, panel-lined, and stickered, give them a spray of Testors Dullcote (comes in a spraycan) or equivalent clear flat coting. Make sure you don't spray the canopy unless you want it foggy. Spraying clear flat makes "no paint" builds look much nicer. In fact it makes them look as if they were painted. I recently completed a MG Zaku which I gave a spray of clear flat and it turned out awesome. If you're gonna be handling it a lot, I wouldn't recommend doing this. Testors Dullcote tends to rub off easily in my experience. -Kyp
Master Dex Posted January 1, 2009 Posted January 1, 2009 Just from looking online, the Gundam Markers look like lead pencils. Are the pictures just deceiving or are these things really just "Gundam brand" lead pencils? I mainly think that b/c the refill sets look like lead. Oh, and what's a reasonable price to pay for an Alto model now? On evilbay, they are about $70 shipped and I don't think they are worth that much (IMO), so I'm hoping they are just a price gougers. They aren't pencils at all. I saw the refills online too and to this day I am still confused by that but I can tell you these markers are not pencils as they utilize an ink with a soft tip (basic definition of a marker). The markers are very fine tipped with only a little of the actual writing bit is visible. At first I had some trouble with them because I put too much pressure when I was marking and the ink came out as a blotch of liquid. I just had to ease up and it worked fine from there. As for model pricing. It is about 4500 yen in Japan still I believe. When I got my Ozma that translated to about $50 but with the declining dollar value lately I'm not sure what it equals. So I'd look for not much higher than $50 if you can avoid it but that may not be possible depending on dollar value and stock, plus I am not counting shipping rates, that will add to the price quite a bit from overseas... unless you order from Image Anime since they are in the U.S. but they overprice so the final amount there will be about the same or worse than importing with high shipping.
protostar8 Posted January 1, 2009 Posted January 1, 2009 They aren't pencils at all. I saw the refills online too and to this day I am still confused by that but I can tell you these markers are not pencils as they utilize an ink with a soft tip (basic definition of a marker). The markers are very fine tipped with only a little of the actual writing bit is visible. At first I had some trouble with them because I put too much pressure when I was marking and the ink came out as a blotch of liquid. I just had to ease up and it worked fine from there. As for model pricing. It is about 4500 yen in Japan still I believe. When I got my Ozma that translated to about $50 but with the declining dollar value lately I'm not sure what it equals. So I'd look for not much higher than $50 if you can avoid it but that may not be possible depending on dollar value and stock, plus I am not counting shipping rates, that will add to the price quite a bit from overseas... unless you order from Image Anime since they are in the U.S. but they overprice so the final amount there will be about the same or worse than importing with high shipping. Okay. Thanks for the info. I may just wait and get a Michael and Luca and just get the super parts when they come out since I believe they will come out before the Luca and Michael. If I could find an Alto for $50, I'd get it, but I doubt I'll be able to do that. I was however hoping to find one for less than $60, but even that might be sketchy. I'll wait until the big Alto restock and see what prices are.
MegaX Posted January 1, 2009 Posted January 1, 2009 (edited) So is a .2 mm suitable for panel lines? It's Micron brand BTW Got it at Hobby Lobby for $3.00 I don't really want to waste money on more tools if I already have the tool for the job. How thick is a Gundam Panel Line Marker? Also, how do you use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer? =P Edited January 1, 2009 by MegaX
zebu Posted January 1, 2009 Posted January 1, 2009 Howdy!! Due to my untimely move, this item is on E-bay for rapid sale!! Good Luck! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=180317693301 Zebu
ikhii Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 (edited) Hi guys, This is my first attempt to do the kit. The transformation took too much time. If I have an air brush, i can do justice to the kit. But for now, I guess all i can do is use some paints and do some final touch on panel lines and a bit of weathering. Will do my Alto later and hope will turn out better. I used some metallic pen to do some metal effects. Won't last but looks ok. Enjoy the photos. Cheers. ikhii Edited January 2, 2009 by ikhii
Dobber Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 I think it looks great!!! Love the metallic look of the "skeleton" and nice job weathering the back plate along with the subtle weathering everywhere else. Bravo!!! Chris
Wicked Ace Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 Hi guys, This is my first attempt to do the kit. The transformation took too much time. If I have an air brush, i can do justice to the kit. But for now, I guess all i can do is use some paints and do some final touch on panel lines and a bit of weathering. Will do my Alto later and hope will turn out better. I used some metallic pen to do some metal effects. Won't last but looks ok. Enjoy the photos. Cheers. ikhii I think you did a great job on this.
JLYC Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 did you paint the gray areas at all? if not..i must say that even in stock gray it looks pretty good if yes, good job on the paint!
ikhii Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 Thanks guys for your encouragements. Hi JLYC, it is actually a big surprise to me as well. The gray areas are stock gray and it looks just nice as they pop up just right. Just apply the silver metallic color on it and use some cotton bud and 'magic'. looks just good. I won't say perfect as I didn't spend enough time on it. I love this kit and my next attempt would be on Alto. A great stuff from Bandai on this one. Just adore the details. Cheers. ikhii
theplasticwerks Posted January 2, 2009 Posted January 2, 2009 Well, here's my WIP Ozma, clumsily reassembled and transformed: I'm hand-painting this puppy (hey, I like the brush stroke aesthetic!). The (slightly streaky) canopy was done with this Sharpie:
Nexx Stalker Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 (edited) Just finished Alto's VF25 (Ozma is next on my to-do list). No panel lining or painting applied, just stickers and out-of-the box assembly. This model kit is awesome! Here he is with his 1/72 brothers from Macross 7 (Wave resin kit) and Macross TV (even if it seems white, the 1S is light gray). Macross generations! I'm eagerly awaiting my 1/72 VF0s from hasegawa to complete the display. Edited January 3, 2009 by Nexx Stalker
stoner Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 here's a pic of my completed 1/72 alto custom. I must add that I am not a modeler myself and this is the first model kit that I've built in 15 yrs! First impression is that bandai has created a work of art. All the parts fit in snugly without any glue required. I'm an amateur modeler and it took me about 3 to 4 hours complete. It's very addictive, u start with the cockpit and then the arms and then the legs. Before I knew it, it was already 12am and I just had to complete it cause I wanted to see how it transformed. Once the whole jet was fully assembled, the transformation process really surprised me. It felt sturdy and not like it was going to fall apart. It was really worth it! If u'd ask me, this will be the last model kit I'll be assembling for a long time to come. I think I'll stick to the DX for the time being.
JLYC Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 glad to see that this new release has spawned many first-time modelers... with time i really hope these 'newbies' will gain the skill and confidence to tackle more difficult projects or start doing custom work/mods...i think this is the first time in the 5 yrs i've been on MWF that i've seen so much activity on the modeling forum and it's pretty exciting. i have just bought the Macross frontier DVD and i'm sure after i watched a few episodes i'll have the urge to snap up a vf-25 myself....but i'm sorta waiting for the full armored VF-25s to come out...hopefully soon or i'll have to make it a scratch-build project.
David Hingtgen Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 I'm hand-painting this puppy (hey, I like the brush stroke aesthetic!). The (slightly streaky) canopy was done with this Sharpie: Did you just go across it randomly, or any particular technique? I'm pretty sure I tried the Sharpie method, but couldn't get it to look good at all.
Wicked Ace Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 Did you just go across it randomly, or any particular technique? I'm pretty sure I tried the Sharpie method, but couldn't get it to look good at all. Not getting a satisfactory result from the Citidel purple wash + Future?
theplasticwerks Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 Did you just go across it randomly, or any particular technique? I'm pretty sure I tried the Sharpie method, but couldn't get it to look good at all. The key for me was keeping the ink on the canopy as wet as possible in one go - otherwise, it just comes off like whiteboard marker on the second pass. So there was a lot of going back and forth lengthwise down the canopy on the inside only, getting as much of the marker tip on the plastic as possible to avoid lots of streaks (and scrubbing it across very quickly and lightly! You'll want a fresh marker.). I posted a Gundam in the workbench where I did the same thing on a clear part with the same Sharpie, and I was able to get multiple layers of ink on it to deepen the shade. For each pass, you just need to be sure the ink has fully dried, and keep the pressure light, otherwise it'll just scrub off. If I were to do it again, I'd have tried to cut the Sharpie tip a bit to conform more to the curve of the canopy. As I said, it's still a bit streaky, but only upon very close inspection.
leon Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 Hey guys, i was clean my vf 25f with thinner(for model kit use). and after a while,the wing just broke apart,the part that the small metal incert in it.Do thinner really soften the pastic???
007-vf1 Posted January 3, 2009 Posted January 3, 2009 Hey guys, i was clean my vf 25f with thinner(for model kit use). and after a while,the wing just broke apart,the part that the small metal incert in it.Do thinner really soften the pastic??? THINNER !!!? why would anyone use thinner to clean a plastic model? You could use it lightly on resin, but plastic? I am glad you didn't melt your model down to a blob...
ron5864 Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 (edited) The Christmas/New Years break was somewhat productive as I was able to get most of Alto's VF-25F done. This is VF-25 configuration is like the one seen in Episode One, right after Alto jumps into save Ranka. I actually painted most of the surfaces white and used decals or paint for most markings. The canopy was also chopped, because Gilliam ejected part of it earlier. Alto is in his school X-gear outfit. The gunpod was repainted with a dull bluish gray and the gun barrels were repainted with gunmetal paint. All part of a larger project... Edited January 4, 2009 by ron5864
David Hingtgen Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 Not getting a satisfactory result from the Citidel purple wash + Future? Haven't tried it yet. But I did try Sharpie, and it didn't work at all. Maybe Sharpie+Future was bad, while plain Sharpie works better. ron5864---did you use a VF-1 cockpit sticker?
Kelsain Posted January 4, 2009 Posted January 4, 2009 The Christmas/New Years break was somewhat productive as I was able to get most of Alto's VF-25F done. This is VF-25 configuration is like the one seen in Episode One, right after Alto jumps into save Ranka. I actually painted most of the surfaces white and used decals or paint for most markings. The canopy was also chopped, because Gilliam ejected part of it earlier. Alto is in his school X-gear outfit. The gunpod was repainted with a dull bluish gray and the gun barrels were repainted with gunmetal paint. All part of a larger project... Don't forget that Gilliam did not have the black and red stripes on the head of his 25. Those were added when Alto took over (and removed and added depending on how tight the animation schedule was). Are you eagerly awaiting the 1/72 Vajra to make a diorama?
ron5864 Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 ron5864---did you use a VF-1 cockpit sticker? Yup, I took the 1/60 VF-1 cockpit display panel sticker, trimmed it down, and applied to the VF-25. It is better than leaving it blank. I am not sure why bandai did not supply a display decal with kit. Here are some better photos with whiter lighting after all the paint and decals have dried. And yes, I am building a small Macross Frontier diorama set with a lot of the elements seen in the opening episode. It will probably take four months to complete.
Valkyrie addict Posted January 5, 2009 Posted January 5, 2009 you are the master of dioramas!! hope Bandai decides to release the vajra red lobster soon so we can see you're diorama finish will you add and invulnerable to shell casing Ranka mini figure?? haha
stoner Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 (edited) well, here's my model kit that i've completed and applied decals Edited January 6, 2009 by stoner
Master Dex Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 well, here's my model kit that i've completed and applied decals Might want to look into correcting the battroid chest there, the cockpit piece is supposed to go all the way into the chest and behind the front chest piece so the nose cone is only visible just behind the chest. Other than that it looks great.
stoner Posted January 6, 2009 Posted January 6, 2009 Might want to look into correcting the battroid chest there, the cockpit piece is supposed to go all the way into the chest and behind the front chest piece so the nose cone is only visible just behind the chest. Other than that it looks great. thanks for the tip. I know, there are times when the cockpit locks in and when I try to pose it, it comes out again. It's my first model kit in 15 yrs and I guess it will be my last for some time. I'll stick to the DX
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