How to strip OLD Tamiya paint off?

[David Hingtgen]

I've got a Gundam I did a few years ago that I did the "silver with Tamiya clear yellow over it" method for the gold parts, and I think I'd like to try something else on it. Googling for Tamiya paint stripping brings up OxiClean a lot, but seems that it doesn't like paint older than a few months. (and I honestly don't remember what silver paint I have underneath the Tamiya clear yellow--could easily be Testors enamel)

Anyone tried 91% etc rubbing alcohol on Tamiya? That's my fave paint stripper, when it works.

[Vince]

Tamiya thinner rub with q-tip, do not soak. easy off works too -- for the most part, leave on in covered container at least a few hours and use a old tooth brush, easy off might leave little pieces stuck at corners.

[thegunny]

Brake fliud works for me and it's good for the enviroment when you wash it down the drain

[HWR MKII]

Windex. It has removed tamiya that has been on my table and other models for years. Give it a shot.

[Vince]

Windex. It has removed tamiya that has been on my table and other models for years. Give it a shot.

[big F]

Break fluid works for me. you can also try oven cleaner the spray foam type, at the very least it makes the paint all soft so you can brush it off with a nail brush.

[David Hingtgen]

A secondary goal is to have pristine plastic underneath--I'd like to get it back to "fresh from the sprue" condition if possible. (I may simply clearcoat the bare plastic)

[AcroRay]

Try the break fluid, then: its more gentle on the plastic. Oven cleaner can damage the plastic after lengthy exposure, which is difficult to determine.

And be sure to clean the plastic well when you're done.

You might have some problems with reds & blues, though. Some colors will dye the plastic, so you might not get that sprue-new clean.

Edited October 12, 2008 by AcroRay

[theplasticwerks]

Windex. It has removed tamiya that has been on my table and other models for years. Give it a shot.

I agree. Just stripped an old MechWarrior mini a few months ago with Windex - two years' (and several layers') worth of Tamiya, and it took some of the original factory paint off, too! (I was not good about stripping minis back then...)

[anime52k8]

I use brake fluid (and I've had to strip paint A LOT). word of warning though. only use DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. DOT3 tends to work faster, but I've heard cases of it softening plastic (hasn't happened to me yet, and i only use DOT3 now).

DO NOT USE DOT2, IT WILL MELT THE PLASTIC. I know DOT2 is quite rare nowadays anyway, but don't use it.

also, I've heard that DOT5 does not work because it's silicon based (never bothered to try, so I don't know) DOT5.1 however is polyethylene glycol based like DOT3 and 4 so it might work, though I've never tried it.

edit: as AcroRay said, colors like red and blue (especially red) stain plastic, which sucks, but on the bright side it doesn't have any negative effect on paint adhesion

also, I personally stay away from oven cleaner. lots of people use it, but it can be kind of doggy (what brand you use makes all the difference, and even then it can be hit or miss)

windex works but only on acrylic (any ammonia based product will work actually). if it might have enamel paint on it, just go with break fluid.

Edited October 12, 2008 by anime52k8

[big F]

chances are you wont find DOT 2 in the local auto mart as its mostly for track use only and not liecenced for road use AFAIK.

The only oven cleaner I ever used is Mr Muscle mostly on Taka anb Bandai 1/55 parts but Also on a couple of old Airfix kits.

As far as brittle ness or degredation of the plastic goes I couldnt say as the Chunkie FPs are brittle anyhow but the main body parts were all ok.

Brake fluid works well though great thing is you can strain out the paint flakes and use it again and again. provided you keep it in a airtight and water free enviroment.

In fact eh only problem it has it unlike oven cleaner you cant just wash it down the drain. I take mine to the local amenity tip as they have a collection point for engine oils and fluids.

[AcroRay]

only use DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid. DOT3 tends to work faster, but I've heard cases of it softening plastic (hasn't happened to me yet, and i only use DOT3 now).

Thanks for that review of the various types, anime52k8. I've been wondering about that lately!

[anime52k8]

chances are you wont find DOT 2 in the local auto mart as its mostly for track use only and not liecenced for road use AFAIK.

DOT 2 used to be standard for drum breaks, it's not any more and they don't sell it. but some people might still have some sitting in their garage.

[wm cheng]

I'd second that Windex! The original stuff with Ammonia, its taken off dried hard cake of paint within the old paint bottles to be reused - I think the active ingredient must be ammonia though, but its absolutely harmless to the plastic and should return it to a pristine condition.

Good luck!