what airbrushes do you use

[RichyX]

just wondering what make of air brushes do you use as i need a new one

im looking at the iwata range something like this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-IWATA-HP-C...1QQcmdZViewItem

i have about $200 to spend on a decent airbrush

as my last airbrush i managed to get 2 models done before it packed up lol

and want to get back into it again now i have the time again

[big F]

They are very good.

Do a search on badger too as you can get the parts and extras in Hobbycraft (if you ave one near you) they are quite cheap and have most of the bits on the shelf. Im fairly sure they do Iwata compatable spares too.

[winterdyne]

Machine mart do an all-metal dual action airbrush very cheaply (about £18 IIRC). That'd do the trick.

Unusual for an airbrush to 'pack up' - what was it?

[RichyX]

Machine mart do an all-metal dual action airbrush very cheaply (about £18 IIRC). That'd do the trick.

Unusual for an airbrush to 'pack up' - what was it?

that very one lol

its a cheap remake of the badger, plu si never got on well with the glass jars, and it kept clogging up, was a pain to clean and everything, the tubes in the jars were a nightmare to clean

i was told by a local model shop to look for iwata as they seem to be the very best

but id be interested in other brands, as long as there gravity fed and parts are easily available incae the worse does happen

[TER-OR]

The HP line is very good, but is made for fine work. For most modeling, the Eclipse and Revolution are more than adequate. The Eclipse is the more versatile of those two. They're both less expensive, and replacement nozzles will be much less than the HP line. You will also want a compressor with a small tank. If you think you'll use the airbrush for fine details, the HP would be a wiser purchase.

I have something like 6 airbrushes and recommend the Eclipse without reservation. The Badger 155 is similar in layout and performance but the Iwata is more finely made. That said, Badger makes nice units.

Terry

[anime52k8]

not to hijack this thread or anything but my compressor is crapping out on me and I'm wondering what would make a good replacement.

I was looking at something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=220289194698

it's not too big, and it's got a built in tank.

seems a bit expensive though.

[big F]

its a cheap remake of the badger, plu si never got on well with the glass jars, and it kept clogging up, was a pain to clean and everything, the tubes in the jars were a nightmare to clean

I agree thats the real PITA part of ther Badger system I found that RC model fuel line is the same size and when they get too gunked up I toss em and cut a new one. the trick is to get them in thiners or windowlene as soon as you finish as they start to dry out really quick.

not to hijack this thread or anything but my compressor is crapping out on me and I'm wondering what would make a good replacement.

I was looking at something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=220289194698

it's not too big, and it's got a built in tank.

seems a bit expensive though.

Looks like the dinky version of mine IIRC I paid about £80 for it in Germany had it shipped back via UPS for about £10

Edited October 6, 2008 by big F

[RichyX]

every badger airbrush ive found has the glass jars

they are a good idea,but i carnt get on with them as sometimes the pipe doesnt come off as it should and is a pain to clean

i want something that is easy to clean, will be reliable and work as it should when it needs too

[Greyryder]

I can recomend the Iwatas, first hand. I have a Revolution, and an Eclipse. Both of mine are gravity feed, because I hate cleaning out those spray caps and tubes.

[VF-19]

I use a pair of badgers (a single action and a double action; model numbers escape me at the moment). A nice plus is that their siphon cup lids are 100 % compatable with Tamiya paint jars. You just have to adjust the plastic tube and you're good to go.

[HWR MKII]

I use a badger 150 double action internal mix. WITH JARS! I have never had an issue with them clogging. As for cleaning the pipe i just run a pipe cleaner with windex or other cleaner on it through the pipe. Comes up sparkling every time. This airbrush has literally been to war too. Took it to the mid east with me to paint some murals for the squadron while i was there. For as touted and celebrated the iwatas are i have yet to see any evidence that it is a better TOOL than a badger. Alot of airbrushing is up to the user and their style.

AS for cleaning the jars and such. Use tamiya paints. Windex or other ammonia based window cleaners will actually remove old dried tamiya paint with little effort. It works ok for thinning Polly S and other acrylics too. Alot of the problems people have with clogging and such come from the paint types they are using and how they are thinned more than the actual airbrush they use. If your paint is prepped properly and sprayed at the right pressure and distance your airbrush will cause you no problems. It just takes time and patience to learn.

[big F]

I always use different caps for different types of paint I have one for oils like Humbrol one for Future and one for Tamiya. Basically I never mix em up because everytime I have I get problems. The jars are easy to clean out even when the paint is dry just use hot soapy water and some scotch brite/pan scourer, this takes off everything even pactra lexan paint, nothing sticks like that stuff. My friend washes his in the diswasher.

[MechTech]

AIRBRUSHES - I've used Badger for decades. Nice and robust. I also have a single action Aztec for doing basic work like coats. The chngeable tips are easy to clean.

COMPRESSORS - You get what you pay for! Make sure you have an air trap and regulator on whatever you get - especially in humid enviroments. As long as it has a tank on it, the pulses you normally get from basic compressors will be stopped. - MT

[RichyX]

my compressor has the water trap, and tank etc and ha sbeen fine

ive only uses tamiya acrylics, andthese have been thinned down, i couldnt use it thick the airbrush wouldnt take it but dont forget im not using a badger, i was using a cheap immatation one copied from a badger design

but i just couldnt work with teh jars, i even bought more jars for it so i had ones for different things

i need a gravity fed one as i think they will be better

[cowie165]

Wow, looks like I'm a minority with MT using an Aztek! I've had a few - most recent is a 470 double action. I find it easy to clean and the changeable heads and gravity fed make it a winner in my books.

I've never tried an Iwata though I've always wanted to!

[RichyX]

ok if i was going to go for a iwata, what model would be best

i build have some gundams i want to build these ra ethe 1/60 scale, but i also have some macross battroids to build aswell though being a lot smaller

[TER-OR]

ok if i was going to go for a iwata, what model would be best

i build have some gundams i want to build these ra ethe 1/60 scale, but i also have some macross battroids to build aswell though being a lot smaller

As I mentioned above, the Eclipse is a great all-around airbrush. If I were to own only one airbrush, it would be a gravity-fed Eclipse. http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Eclipse_Airbrush.html

The Badger 155 is a close second, along with the Omni 4000.

[TER-OR]

The compressor above looks fine.

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC1010-Compres...6592&sr=8-1

A Senco 1010, it's surprisingly quiet.

[hirohawa]

Iwata HP C top loaders are the best easiest to clean and use

[TSP]

This might be interesting for beginners. It's a fool proof starter set based on the idea of the Aztek Airbrushes and it only costs 40€.

Herpa Plug & Spray Airbrush set

Edit: I use a Hansa Aero-Pro 201 and an Airstreamer AS 189 Compressor. That's the same one Big F and anime52k8 mentioned

Edited October 16, 2008 by TSP

[anime52k8]

This might be interesting for beginners. It's a fool proof starter set based on the idea of the Aztek Airbrushes and it only costs 40€.

Herpa Plug & Spray Airbrush set

Edit: I use a Hansa Aero-Pro 201 and an Airstreamer AS 189 Compressor. That's the same one Big F and anime52k8 mentioned

so, are you suposed to throw away the nozzle and cup when you finish using using that color? sounds like it would get incredibly expensive after a while

[HWR MKII]

so, are you suposed to throw away the nozzle and cup when you finish using using that color? sounds like it would get incredibly expensive after a while

you clea them by flushing them. The nozzles are interchangeable for different lines and effects. Bad system if you ask me. Even flushing doesnt remove all the paint. Some people do disassemble the nozzle for cleaning but you arent supposed to. Eventually something will happen to make the nozzle unuseable. The nozzles are also more expensive than a new needle for a normal airbrush. Id rather replace a bent needle or over worn one than work with those nozzle things.

[Greyryder]

you clea them by flushing them. The nozzles are interchangeable for different lines and effects. Bad system if you ask me. Even flushing doesnt remove all the paint. Some people do disassemble the nozzle for cleaning but you arent supposed to. Eventually something will happen to make the nozzle unuseable. The nozzles are also more expensive than a new needle for a normal airbrush. Id rather replace a bent needle or over worn one than work with those nozzle things.

Yup. Broke a nozzle on my Aztek, that way. Took it out, to make sure it was clean, and it cracked, when I put it back in. I chucked the whole the thing, after I got my Iwata.

[cowie165]

you clea them by flushing them. The nozzles are interchangeable for different lines and effects. Bad system if you ask me. Even flushing doesnt remove all the paint. Some people do disassemble the nozzle for cleaning but you arent supposed to. Eventually something will happen to make the nozzle unuseable. The nozzles are also more expensive than a new needle for a normal airbrush. Id rather replace a bent needle or over worn one than work with those nozzle things.

I've been using an Aztek for seven years and yes, you do need to be disassembling the nozzle for a clean, it takes maybe 60 seconds to do so. I've never had a broken nozzle or needle, so my experience has been quite good with Aztek.

Diff'rent strokes...

[Berttt]

I'll say Cowie!

I have an Aztek double action 430 and I hate the bloody thing! The nozzles wear out and no matter what you do paint creeps inside and clogs the brush up preventing you spraying fine line as the needle is never able to close the nozzle properly. I now use a pasche VL and haven't looked back. But I do know other blokes that swear by them.

[magicsp00n]

I've had a Badger 150 for over 15 years, always been happy with it. I also use the jars without any problem. It's best to have at least 5 or 6 jars handy so you don't have to worry about cleaning and mixing every time you want to change colors. Just plug the new jar in and go. I used to work with only one jar - what a pain.

[TSP]

I did mentioned it is a beginner airbrush. That's 40€ to find out if you like airbrushing or not. Obviously a pro wouldn't buy such a set. But 40€ are more reconcilable than spending ~100€(without compressor) just to find out airbrushing doesn't suits you. The nozzle sizes are all the same, 0,3mm. A set of 5 nozzles plus paint pots is still a lot cheaper than a replacement nozzle and needle for a good airbrush set or spare Aztek nozzles. A new needle, o-rings and nozzle for the AB I have(similar to Iwata Revolution) would cost me 35€+ shipment . A toy like Aztek A270 still costs 46€ and the starter set A430 are 65€.

[HWR MKII]

I've been using an Aztek for seven years and yes, you do need to be disassembling the nozzle for a clean, it takes maybe 60 seconds to do so. I've never had a broken nozzle or needle, so my experience has been quite good with Aztek.

Diff'rent strokes...

No the nozzles are NOT meant to be taken apart. Thats why they have that stupid cleaning statio thing that is pretty useless. Your supposed to spray a FULL bottle of thinner through it. When the nozzle finally does clog or get faulty you are supposed to throw it out and replace it. Read the instructions for it. From the one my parents got me when i was learning airbrushing i dont remember seeing anything about removing the needle. Technically you have broken every nozzle by pulling the needle out. They are actually locked in. It ist hard to pull it out but they are not supposed to come out.

For me the badger is cheaper to maintain and more reliable to use. . No O rigns, Needles run about 2 bucks and my tips are in excellet shape. a package of those nozzle things for an aztec is about 10 bucks a pop maybe more now. Give a real metal airbrush a try and im sure you will be amazed at the difference in it and the quality of work you can produce with it.

Edited October 17, 2008 by HWR MKII

[anime52k8]

I'll say Cowie!

I have an Aztek double action 430 and I hate the bloody thing! The nozzles wear out and no matter what you do paint creeps inside and clogs the brush up preventing you spraying fine line as the needle is never able to close the nozzle properly. I now use a pasche VL and haven't looked back. But I do know other blokes that swear by them.

wow, my first airbrush was a Paasche VL, I still have it but I can't stand the thing. it was a pain in the ass to clean and I managed to ruin several sets of nozzles trying to assemble it afterwords. (the brass on the nozzle was so soft the needles would splay the nozzle open when you try to adjust them)

Edited October 17, 2008 by anime52k8

[cowie165]

No the nozzles are NOT meant to be taken apart. Thats why they have that stupid cleaning statio thing that is pretty useless. Your supposed to spray a FULL bottle of thinner through it. When the nozzle finally does clog or get faulty you are supposed to throw it out and replace it. Read the instructions for it. From the one my parents got me when i was learning airbrushing i dont remember seeing anything about removing the needle. Technically you have broken every nozzle by pulling the needle out. They are actually locked in. It ist hard to pull it out but they are not supposed to come out.

There's no need to be rude mate. Please read my post again - I was agreeing with you.

Yes, the cleaning station is stupid and I won't buy one.

No, you aren't meant to take the tip apart.

Yes, you do need to take it apart to keep it clean, contrary to the instructions.

Yes, I can read instructions, cheers.

When you read the instructions I'm sure you'll be pleased to note that it actually says spray thinners until clear, not a full bottle.

[HWR MKII]

There's no need to be rude mate. Please read my post again - I was agreeing with you.

Yes, the cleaning station is stupid and I won't buy one.

No, you aren't meant to take the tip apart.

Yes, you do need to take it apart to keep it clean, contrary to the instructions.

Yes, I can read instructions, cheers.

When you read the instructions I'm sure you'll be pleased to note that it actually says spray thinners until clear, not a full bottle.

For it to spray "Clear" it usually takes a full bottle of whatever thinners you are using. Their method still does not get it clean. theres always some left behind.

[cowie165]

For it to spray "Clear" it usually takes a full bottle of whatever thinners you are using. Their method still does not get it clean. theres always some left behind.

Sure. Sorry, I didn't need to post that last sentence. We both know that already and I'm not trying to cause an argument.

[Berttt]

For anyone that has an Aztek and is having trouble spraying nice tight lines like you used to be able to, go here for a visual guide on disassembling and cleaning the Aztek 400 series airbrush.

http://www.master194.com/encyclo/aztec/index.htm

Mine used to gum up like this and no amount of thinners sprayed through it was going to fix it. Paint would build up on the little "wedge" and prevent the needle closing fully, thereby limiting how fine my lines would be.

And before anyone harps on about it I know you are not supposed to pull them apart. It'll viod your warranty blah blah. But like Cowie pulling the nozzle apart you sometimes have to physically clean the crap out to get it running smoothly again.

Anyway you only get a limited warranty on these now (no more lifetime warranty) and unless you kpt your reciept good luck proving that you bought yours before the policy change.

As for the Paasche VL being crap - I could understand why you'd be cranky with the tips as I ahve done the same thing myself being a little heavy handed. But it is still more robust than the Aztek IMHO. and I can get crazy fine lines for 1/72 scale camoflage like my Aztek has never been able to do.

Horses for course though as they say.

Cheers,

Berttt

Edited October 18, 2008 by Berttt

[anime52k8]

As for the Paasche VL being crap - I could understand why you'd be cranky with the tips as I ahve done the same thing myself being a little heavy handed. But it is still more robust than the Aztek IMHO. and I can get crazy fine lines for 1/72 scale camoflage like my Aztek has never been able to do.

My VL worked great, and they are more robust and precise than Aztek's. I got fed up with the VL mostly because it was a bitch to clean. paint would get in to every little nook and cranny on the thing, and I'd have to regularly tear it down completely. at that point I would inevitably lose something, (usualy part of the stupid screw thing that holds the flow control part of the trigger open) and need to spend the next hour or so looking for the missing part.

any level of cleaning takes about half as long and is much easier on My Eclipse. Now I just use the VL for doing large areas since I've got some large Jars for it, and I've got a High flow nozzle for it.

[RichyX]

wel li bought a iwata eclipse from a local model store always has 10 yrs warranty which i couldnt complain about, havnt tried it out yet but in the next week or so i will