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Posted (edited)

I see that many modelers here apply Future to their kits before applying decals or just simply for sealing the kits.

Since this is the first time I heard of this magical being, I have several questions:

1. Does it need any thinning?

2. How do you apply it? Airbrush? Brush? Just soak parts in it?

3. Would any application of enamel/lacquer on top of it eat it away?

4. Finally, in Toronto, where can you get it?

Thanks a lot. :D

Edited by howie
Posted

Over at ARC, they're saying Johnson is going to stop making it in some places, notably the UK. Will likely become even harder to find than it already is. US production continues, though.

Posted

I just found a cache of Original Future at my local neighborhood mom and pop market, they have old bottles but none of it is yellowed, the isle they are in never get sun......

Is it OK/legal to ship this stuff though.?? I can help anyone out who needs it if they cannot find it.. or maybe i should keep my find a secret...ahh MY PRECIOUSSSSsssssss....

Over at ARC, they're saying Johnson is going to stop making it in some places, notably the UK. Will likely become even harder to find than it already is. US production continues, though.
Posted
I just found a cache of Original Future at my local neighborhood mom and pop market, they have old bottles but none of it is yellowed, the isle they are in never get sun......

Is it OK/legal to ship this stuff though.?? I can help anyone out who needs it if they cannot find it.. or maybe i should keep my find a secret...ahh MY PRECIOUSSSSsssssss....

Future has not been discontinued. They just changed the name. The formulation of the replacement is supposed to be the same. I think the new name in the US is something like "Pledge with Future Shine" or something like that.

Posted (edited)

I have a Paasche H (extrnl mix) and it works great for spraying Future..

I also have a VL (internal mix) but don't use for that due to difficulty cleaning brush's internal parts and adjusting the needles/tips ...hassle ....

I do thin it out a bit with water or alcohol. Apply a thin cover coat, say 60/40 ratio , then come back like a few mins later to do a thicker more concentrate coat 75/25...this gives the future a chance to flow over the details of the object and provides a substrate for the thicker coat to adhere to.

Watch the pressures and shooting distances though... too high a psi. will push the setting Future around before it sets.Can dry in ripples....so don't get too close at high PSI.... .but i also heard if spray gun is too far from object to be sprayed and the spray mist if very fine the Future will dry in the air, resulting in fine dust looking pebbles in your paint job, which in some cases can be lightly brushed/rubbed off with ammonia based window cleaner and paper towel edge. pain in the *ss ..... :angry: and kinda scary......

This happened to me when i was working on my JM.

Spray was fine but distance was too far due to having too many parts in the spray booth and trying to pray parts in the back of booth......

Amonia based glass cleaner is best for clean up.

well, my big question is, is the Future in its original bottle airbrush ready???
Edited by orguss01
Posted
well, my big question is, is the Future in its original bottle airbrush ready???

It can be sprayed as is, but most people dilute it down.

Posted
It can be sprayed as is, but most people dilute it down.

I have said it before and ill say it again. You DO NOT need to thin future. Its already thin as it is. It dries even thinner. You can paint over it using other acrylics but if you do paint over it allow 3-4 days for it to fully harden. Future will stay "gummy" and stretch if given a matt overcoat or paint overcoat causing cracks in the finish.

For canopies just do your usual polishing to remove any seam lines ad then DUNK it. Set the canopy on a paper towel to wick away any excess and cover it with a tupperware bowl to keep dust from setteling on it. Once cured your canopy will be sharp and clear.

Posted (edited)

I always wondered what people were talking about when they said spray on some "Future."

Never knew you could do so much with some floor wax.......

So, do they sell the re-branded Future in regular stores like WalMart and stuff, or do you have to special order it?...

Edit: By the way, how much does a bottle of it usually cost? I've never looked for floor wax before....

Edited by CosmicSpore
Posted
I just found a cache of Original Future at my local neighborhood mom and pop market, they have old bottles but none of it is yellowed, the isle they are in never get sun......

Is it OK/legal to ship this stuff though.?? I can help anyone out who needs it if they cannot find it.. or maybe i should keep my find a secret...ahh MY PRECIOUSSSSsssssss....

Orguss if you can ship it overseas, I'm in. You can't buy the real deal here "down under" - I've seen genuine Future at model expos for $5.95/oz!! :blink: And everyone thought eBay was the home of price gouging!

If you can ship it, we'll become joint Future-barons of Australia... :D

Posted (edited)
Orguss if you can ship it overseas, I'm in. You can't buy the real deal here "down under" - I've seen genuine Future at model expos for $5.95/oz!! :blink: And everyone thought eBay was the home of price gouging!

If you can ship it, we'll become joint Future-barons of Australia... :D

??? from USPS...someone try and light it on fire...

136 Nonmailable Dangerous Goods The following dangerous goods (hazardous materials, as defined in DMM 601) are prohibited in the international mail:

  • Explosives or explosive devices.
  • Flammable materials.
    1. Pyrophoric, flammable, or combustible liquids with a closed cup flash point below 200°F.
    2. Flammable solids, including matches.
Oxidizers.<li>Corrosives, liquid or solid.<li>Compressed gases.
  1. Flammable.
  2. Nonflammable with an absolute pressure exceeding 40 psi at 70°F or 104 psi at 130°F.
<li>Poisons, irritants, controlled substances, and drug paraphernalia.<li>Magnetized material with a magnetic field strength of .002 gauss or more at a distance of 7 feet.<li>Dry ice (carbon dioxide solid).

For S's and giggles look what can be mailed..infectious mat. and rad. matUSPS :blink:

Edited by orguss01
Posted

There isn't a flammable warning on the bottle I have in front of me and I've never heard of floor polish being dangerous goods ;)

That's cool, I'll ask a mate to bring some back through work

Posted

oh, and can I use Lacquer/Enamel on top of Future?

And the other way around - Future on top of Lacquer/Enamel?

And finally, where can I get this thing in Toronto, Canada? Does Canadian Tire/ Walmart have this thing?

Thanks!

Posted
From the link posted a few posts ago: "Canada – Loblaws, No-Frills, Sobeys, Canadian Tire, Wal-Mart, Valu-Mart."

oOps didn't see it...

Thanks!

And could any one answer my question about the use of Future with lacquer/enamel paints?

Posted

does anyone know about what ratio I should use to get the same finish as the plasitic in a bandai model if I'm mixing tamiya Flat base with Future, and spraying it over stait plastic.

I'm planning to get one of the VF-25's and I'm hoping to only need to clear coat the area's that have decals on them.

Posted

I plan to do roughly the same (clearcoat all white parts after decaling), but I aim for a flatter finish. I've seen widely varying ratios of how "flat" Tamiya flat makes Future. I'm going to start with 10:1 future/flat, and may have to go as far as 3:1 future/flat.

Personally, I think applying a glossy coat over bare plastic will make it look VERY toyistic/plasticy, more than it already does.

Posted
oOps didn't see it...

Thanks!

And could any one answer my question about the use of Future with lacquer/enamel paints?

You have to be careful using future over a lacquer or enamel base. It can be done, but lacquer and enamel paints "outgass" for quite a long time after they are applied. (sometimes weeks or months) The acrylic Future will cure very fast and if the underlying paint is still curing, the outgassing will cause the Future layer to crack.

Usually, lacquer and enamel paints will be much harder than acrylic paints though. They might hold up well enough without the clearcoat.

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