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Posted
On that note, I would advise that the VF-25 not be the first kit that you try to paint tongue.gif. Get lots of practice on cheaper simpler kits (HG's will do) before attempting to paint either of the VF-25's. All of the kit's moving parts needed for the perfect transformation make painting it quite a challenge.

With all due respect, but I am not the type of person that can practice on girls I don't love in order to give it my all for the girl I love :) I'll paint the VF-25 as my first model - the challenge will encourage me to be super careful :)

Speaking of super-careful... Last year, I built the Crossbone Gundam (second MG kit I ever built) - but didn't have the strength left to build his Full Cloth. Later came Turn-A, then a big pause in building Gundams, then the HG OOs, then I finally returned to MGs with Unicorn... anyways - on a bit of a "Gundam High" (no glue required ;) ) I went straight back to my Crossbone Full Cloth after finished Force Impulse and...

2k1g3.jpg

He's great! :) I love this design. It's kind of corny, true - but it's just soooo cool :) Gundam Pirate :) Tee hee :) Still have to build his Crossbow and Sword and shield and probably a few other weapons. This guy is "over-weaponized" :)

Pete

Posted (edited)
With all due respect, but I am not the type of person that can practice on girls I don't love in order to give it my all for the girl I love :) I'll paint the VF-25 as my first model - the challenge will encourage me to be super careful :)

Pete

Check this out for a quick and easy way to panel line and weather your models: http://www.promodeller.com/promodellers-weathering-wash/

It worked great for my 1/72 VF-25S!

Edited by edwin3060
Posted

Thanks for all the tips'n'links guys. Just to show that I'm using them:

2u6cqq0.jpg

Too bad I ruined the tampoo printing sheet for my Unicorn :) Anyways - I looooove how the Crossbone looks now. Skull Heart :) how cute :) I think I ought to maybe put the ZAFT prints on the Force Impulse - except that Zodiac Alliance Freedom Treaty really really sounds bad :)

ZAFT - how daft :)

Pete

Posted (edited)
With all due respect, but I am not the type of person that can practice on girls I don't love in order to give it my all for the girl I love :) I'll paint the VF-25 as my first model - the challenge will encourage me to be super careful :)

Now now, I'm just trying to give you some advice :). If you have never airbrushed before (applies to sprays too / similar technique), it takes a few tries to get used to it. Most people I know didn't do very well with their first "paint job" mostly because they're learning and dealing with a new skill... which is why practice before you try it on a kit you actually care about. Although being careful helps, you need context (ie. experience) to know what being careful is.

And I don't think women analogy applies here... they can be somewhat forgiving of your mistakes (well about 25% of the ones I've dated have lol) and shortcomings, but if you ruin a kit, you ruin it... and the wallet cries :( .

But if you insist on starting your adventure into painting with the vf-25, I suggest you use Tamiya Sprays, they're somewhat user-friendly. I still prefer airbrush because of greater control of what I do.

Edited by Ghost Train
Posted

He can also paint it the old fashioned way: brush painting

...which is what I do ^_^;

Perhaps harder to master, but quicker and cheaper to jump into.

Posted

Until I actually go rumaging for modeling supplies I won't know what I'll be doing. As much as I appreciate you guys pointing me to specific products - I honestly have no clue what I'll find here. Probably will go searching for this stuff some where in mid-Feburary at best. I won't have my 1/72 Macross stuff until the third part of this year anyways - so there's plenty of time for me to learn.

Who knows... maybe I'll paint a Gundam in the meanwhile :)

Pete

Posted
He can also paint it the old fashioned way: brush painting

...which is what I do ^_^;

Perhaps harder to master, but quicker and cheaper to jump into.

For sure. As long as you keep the paint thin enough and apply it in thin layers, brush painting will often look just fine. Certainly better than leaving bare plastic, anyways.

Downside is that it tends to take longer to apply, and I find the slightly "rougher" look of brush painting looks better on more weathered kits.

Posted
For sure. As long as you keep the paint thin enough and apply it in thin layers, brush painting will often look just fine. Certainly better than leaving bare plastic, anyways.

I've always had a problem with thinning the paint. It almost always gets too thin. I think it's because Gundams don't require so much coverage and the paint I pour out to use is no more than a couple of drops. As a result, I always end up just wetting the brush with thinner and using the paint straight out of the bottle. And usually just one layer suffices. Perhaps it's because I use enamel paint.

Posted

I use a combo of old fashioned brush and airbrush. For really small details (touch-ups, those head vulcans, etc) I lack the precision control needed, so stick with a brush, but for larger areas of plastic: airbrush ftw.

Posted

Guys, need a little bit of help here: I've a MG 1/100 Strike Rouge which I intend to assemble, but somehow I've lost the instruction manual..... will anyone who has it be so kind as to scan in a copy for me? Thanks in advance!

Posted
O_O Amazing! Are all those green clear parts lighted? Wow!

I don't think they are lighted. He doesn't seem to mention (with pictures, as I can't read a word), that he installed any electronics or lights to light up the clear parts. I think he used silver paint to hightlight the details under the clear green parts, and then used careful positioning of his flash units so that the lights strike the silver and reflect into the camera, making it appear that the green parts are lighted.

If you go up a few pages in this thread, you'll see my post with the Guncannon and the GM custom, and the GM Custom's visor appears to be lit with an LED but it's just silver paint on the mechanical details.

Posted
I don't think they are lighted. He doesn't seem to mention (with pictures, as I can't read a word), that he installed any electronics or lights to light up the clear parts. I think he used silver paint to hightlight the details under the clear green parts, and then used careful positioning of his flash units so that the lights strike the silver and reflect into the camera, making it appear that the green parts are lighted.

Going by the instruction kit, he did leave the LEDs in the cones. He didn't cover up the switch on the underside and in a few pics, I can see the switch so he certainly did leave the LEDs that come with 00 Gundam in the build of the kit. So I'm fairly sure he didn't paint the exhaust on the cones green. Those are the LEDs that come with the kit which are emitting the green color.

Posted (edited)

Just about 6 hours ago while I was updated the MG and HGUC lists, I was saying that it was wierd how now new info was in the recent hobby mags about new kits coming, and then voila...I wake up, click on Ngee Khiong and:

March:

- MG Unicorn Coating Ver. - 8,000 Yen

- 1/72 Transformable VF-25G Michael's Unit - 4,500 Yen

- 1/72 Transformable VF-25S with Super Pack - 6,500 Yen

April:

- MG Sword Impulse Gundam - 4,500 Yen

- HGUC Nu Gundam HWS - 2,800 Yen

- HG 1/144 Ahead Smultron - 1,200 Yen

Unfortuneately the HGUC and MG are only slight changes from previous releases..... <_<

Edited by GRAND CANNON
Posted
Just about 6 hours ago while I was updated the MG and HGUC lists, I was saying that it was wierd how now new info was in the recent hobby mags about new kits coming, and then voila...I wake up, click on Ngee Khiong and:

March:

- MG Unicorn Coating Ver. - 8,000 Yen

- 1/72 Transformable VF-25G Michael's Unit - 4,500 Yen

- 1/72 Transformable VF-25S with Super Pack - 6,500 Yen

April:

- MG Sword Impulse Gundam - 4,500 Yen

- HGUC Nu Gundam HWS - 2,800 Yen

- HG 1/144 Ahead Smultron - 1,200 Yen

Unfortuneately the HGUC and MG are only slight changes from previous releases..... <_<

The Impulse Gundam is the ultimate example of mould milking by Bandai! Not that I'm complaining ;)

Posted
The Impulse Gundam is the ultimate example of mould milking by Bandai! Not that I'm complaining ;)

Bah! You know nothing of Gunpla-milking. :lol:

Posted

Hey guys. Need som ID help. What the flub is this:

2vllmo6.jpg

And just to be clear - I'm not asking about the particular Gundam - but rather about the age of the model. Is this an old Bandai model? The box art looks ugly and it looks like something from the early 1990s or something. Is this from the much older HG line?

Anybody ever come across these things - packaged like that?

Pete

Posted

It's a High Grade kit of Gundam Epyon from Gundam Wing... these are like, ten years old? They've got alot of mold seams to deal with, and tended to break. I remember having the Gundam Wing and Deathscythe kits.

Posted
It's a High Grade kit of Gundam Epyon from Gundam Wing... these are like, ten years old? They've got alot of mold seams to deal with, and tended to break. I remember having the Gundam Wing and Deathscythe kits.

Thanks. That's exactly what I figured they were, but I needed confirmation. Got a competitor making a lame attempt to up-end me by offering this out of date crud, and most people in Poland won't know the difference unless I indicate it.... which I've had to now.

Thanks again,

Pete

Posted
2vllmo6.jpg

... Skill Level 4 ZOMG! ... I think I remember seeing the commercials where a bunch of people came on and said, "Level 4.... 20 hours." This was in 1999/2000 I think, when Wing was being broadcast in the US. I feel prehistoric now.

Posted

Heh, I remember those kits. Ahhh, the heady days when Gundam goods were actually readily available in the US.

Vostok 7

Posted

Hey, I had that kit. But being able to 'transform' just killed it. If it was simply "normal" it would have been pretty good. And I just built Altron.

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