Gundam Plamodel Thread III

[azrael]

MG IJ with boxart

http://www.toysdaily.com/discuz/thread-76510-1-1.html

[David Hingtgen]

Quick question: What's the best paint/process to match Bandai's gold-plated parts? 99% of "gold" paint out there is more like bronze/copper, and not nearly yellow enough to match. And it's usually too grainy---I've found "smooth" silver, but never "smooth" gold/brass--it's always glittery. Since Bandai "gold" is actually silver-plated with a clear yellow sprayed over, is that the best match anyone's found? (painting silver, then putting clear yellow over it). Maybe mini/gaming/figure paint? They tend to have a lot of metallics for weapons/armor---anyone found a match? I have nearly every "gold" paint pen/marker ever made and none match--too green or too coppery.

PS--hope that Sinanju comes with some nice stickers, or you'll need a steady hand to paint it---the gold "scrollwork" REALLY makes that suit, and it looks pretty bland as just pure black and red.

[azrael]

Quick question: What's the best paint/process to match Bandai's gold-plated parts? 99% of "gold" paint out there is more like bronze/copper, and not nearly yellow enough to match. And it's usually too grainy---I've found "smooth" silver, but never "smooth" gold/brass--it's always glittery. Since Bandai "gold" is actually silver-plated with a clear yellow sprayed over, is that the best match anyone's found? (painting silver, then putting clear yellow over it). Maybe mini/gaming/figure paint? They tend to have a lot of metallics for weapons/armor---anyone found a match? I have nearly every "gold" paint pen/marker ever made and none match--too green or too coppery.

Replicating that shiny gold is really hard. Many modelers I've seen in magazines or websites end up recoating in Tamiya champagne gold or a mix. The best I can say is try silver and then a clear yellow or similar color. Most modelers I've seen end up repainting it with a straight gold color.

[Vince]

Quick question: What's the best paint/process to match Bandai's gold-plated parts? 99% of "gold" paint out there is more like bronze/copper, and not nearly yellow enough to match. And it's usually too grainy---I've found "smooth" silver, but never "smooth" gold/brass--it's always glittery. Since Bandai "gold" is actually silver-plated with a clear yellow sprayed over, is that the best match anyone's found? (painting silver, then putting clear yellow over it). Maybe mini/gaming/figure paint? They tend to have a lot of metallics for weapons/armor---anyone found a match? I have nearly every "gold" paint pen/marker ever made and none match--too green or too coppery.

PS--hope that Sinanju comes with some nice stickers, or you'll need a steady hand to paint it---the gold "scrollwork" REALLY makes that suit, and it looks pretty bland as just pure black and red.

you kinda got it already, after removing the original color and primed, base coat with flat or semi flat black, spray the metallic silver and top with clear yellow/orange, or metallizer on top of black, buff and you're done. model master has very good metallizer line.

pretty much just like about every book will tell you the same thing.

note on metallizers: clear top coat will change the final out come, so be careful.

[David Hingtgen]

Ok, one more question: Just how bright is Tamiya "Light Green" in the bottle? The spray seems to be very bright, almost flourescent--but Tamiya sprays and bottles don't always match. I'm looking for "beam saber green" and have used Testors Sublime Green in the past for that--but now I'm looking for an acrylic substitute. (of course I find out about Tamiya Light Green 12 hours after I made my last Tamiya paint order.....)

[Vince]

Ok, one more question: Just how bright is Tamiya "Light Green" in the bottle? The spray seems to be very bright, almost flourescent--but Tamiya sprays and bottles don't always match. I'm looking for "beam saber green" and have used Testors Sublime Green in the past for that--but now I'm looking for an acrylic substitute. (of course I find out about Tamiya Light Green 12 hours after I made my last Tamiya paint order.....)

I'm gonna give this a shot, anybody feel free to jump in.

I have no idea which Tamiya green you have in mind, but spray cans and bottles usually don't match exactly maybe because the sprays have already thinned properly. For light saber green, or yellow, blue, red.. etc., use white base color, spray your choice of thinned clear color, I think the clear is suppose to thinner than solid color(?) spray in layers along the rod. more coats towards the business end of the saber, like flame is brighter at the source and darker color along the edge. kinda like doing the Max technique with totally clear top color. I'm sure there are a lot of sites with this info.

[David Hingtgen]

That's far beyond my ability--I paint them one color and am lucky if they come out smooth. Anyways, another paint question I thought of:

Is there anything out there that matches the "purple grey" that weapons/hands are often molded in? The only purple-grey paint I know of is RLM Grauviolett, but that's so BARELY purple I don't think it could possibly match.

PS--the Tamiya Light Green I was asking about is X15.

[Vince]

That's far beyond my ability--I paint them one color and am lucky if they come out smooth. Anyways, another paint question I thought of:

Is there anything out there that matches the "purple grey" that weapons/hands are often molded in? The only purple-grey paint I know of is RLM Grauviolett, but that's so BARELY purple I don't think it could possibly match.

PS--the Tamiya Light Green I was asking about is X15.

All you need is to try it once to figure out how . it's really not that hard. Tamiya make a candy apple~ish spray in can only, it is for car models and I think it is kinda transparent and could work (?)

I'm just thinking of a lazy way to do this, paint or spray the handle end of the saber with white, and then move down towards to end a little and apply gray, and repeat a couple of time with dark shade of gray. finally spray clear green all over, with more layers away from the handle. I haven't done this, but I need to give it a try. you can spray with a mask with a soft edge, if the mask is not touching the target area, so you can have a little more control of the spray can. I usually just do pre-shading and be done with it, it is easier than it sounds.

I use metallic gray, for the weapons and hands, and I think you will have to mix color to get the color for the gun on a VF, good thing is the color numbers are usually listed on the instruction sheet -- for Gunze, you can find a conversion chart for Gunze and Tamiya paint online.

p.s. think about different shades of green (?)

http://tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=72

[azrael]

Is there anything out there that matches the "purple grey" that weapons/hands are often molded in? The only purple-grey paint I know of is RLM Grauviolett, but that's so BARELY purple I don't think it could possibly match.

I would actually re-paint the hands to match the inner frame color. As for the weapons, I normally repaint that to something a bit more darker gray/gunmetal gray.

[David Hingtgen]

My general rule for painting Gundams is that hands and joints and most grey details are gunship grey, while weapons and backpacks are intermediate blue (the source of the infamous "medium blue" mistranslation). But sometimes I just want to match what they're already molded in.

[azrael]

My general rule for painting Gundams is that hands and joints and most grey details are gunship grey, while weapons and backpacks are intermediate blue (the source of the infamous "medium blue" mistranslation). But sometimes I just want to match what they're already molded in.

Maybe a light sea gray (Tamiya XF-25) with a touch of blue or a mix of light sea gray and intermediate blue perhaps?

After seeing keita's early work, I ended up liking that gun metal color on some weapons.

[David Hingtgen]

Me again: Anyone know of a review or something about the pearl-coating PG Wing Zero? I can find nothing other than the single main photo everywhere has. I'm contemplating trying to order just a few of its sprues from HLJ for my first-release Zero. Does anyone know if the feathers themselves are coated, or are they still plain white rubber?

Also---any suggestions/tips on a good gold paint to use for a Gundam? My most recent experience with Tamiya X-12 sucked, it's basically silver+clear yellow factory mixed. And Tamiya clear yellow is basically maple syrup in color and stickyness. (but the color is still the best I've found) My PG Zero has Tamiya clear yellow over Testors? silver for its gold parts, but I'm seriously considering redoing them, but I'm not sure with what. Might just go with pure yellow, as every gold paint I've ever tried sucks, in either appearance and/or application. Or maybe some sort of gold-chrome spraypaint. (and before I risk ruining my originals I'm trying to get a spare set of yellow parts, or the pearl-coated version---annoyingly they're not on their own sprue, they're on the main color-injected sprue which greatly increases the acquisition cost)

Possibly--pearlizing my existing wings. I bought a can of clear pearl spraypaint to try when I got the kit, but it was more like "clearcoat with small gold and silver flecks" and was only slightly pearlescent. I really want a rainbow effect. Anyone know of something that can be airbrushed on? Also---is there a way to strip pigma micron ink? I did ink in the wings a bit, but I'd want them to be ink-free if I try to make them pearlescent.

[azrael]

Also---any suggestions/tips on a good gold paint to use for a Gundam? My most recent experience with Tamiya X-12 sucked, it's basically silver+clear yellow factory mixed. And Tamiya clear yellow is basically maple syrup in color and stickyness. (but the color is still the best I've found) My PG Zero has Tamiya clear yellow over Testors? silver for its gold parts, but I'm seriously considering redoing them, but I'm not sure with what. Might just go with pure yellow, as every gold paint I've ever tried sucks, in either appearance and/or application. Or maybe some sort of gold-chrome spraypaint. (and before I risk ruining my originals I'm trying to get a spare set of yellow parts, or the pearl-coated version---annoyingly they're not on their own sprue, they're on the main color-injected sprue which greatly increases the acquisition cost)

Depending on how dark you want your gold, you can try a straight gold color. There's a chrome yellow from Tamiya, but I don't think I've ever used the one I bought. If you want a lighter gold, I would suggest champagne gold.

Possibly--pearlizing my existing wings. I bought a can of clear pearl spraypaint to try when I got the kit, but it was more like "clearcoat with small gold and silver flecks" and was only slightly pearlescent. I really want a rainbow effect. Anyone know of something that can be airbrushed on? Also---is there a way to strip pigma micron ink? I did ink in the wings a bit, but I'd want them to be ink-free if I try to make them pearlescent.

There's a Tamiya pearl white out there. It's a tad darker than a pure white, but it does have the shining effect.

[David Hingtgen]

Does anyone have the specs for the LEDs that Bandai uses in MG/PG kits? I've got my PG Zero taken apart further than I ever have before for some cleaning/tweaking and am considering going "all the way" to replace/redo some parts, to the point of unsoldering the LEDs to upgrade them and allow FULL disassembly of the torso.

The main problem with PG WZC's lights is that the eyes are "indirectly lightpiped" and there are two layers of clear plastic for them, not just one. So they BARELY light up, whereas the crest/head sensors are very bright--the opposite of what I want. A much brighter LED alone wouldn't help much, I really need to get one of those wide-angle LEDs I think, to help get more of the light into the surrounding part that leads to the eyes. But I'd like some electrical specs to ensure compatability before I start swapping LEDs. Anyone ever seen someone attempt "lighting upgrades" in a PG kit?

[Crazy Canuck II]

Quick question: What's the best paint/process to match Bandai's gold-plated parts? 99% of "gold" paint out there is more like bronze/copper, and not nearly yellow enough to match. And it's usually too grainy---I've found "smooth" silver, but never "smooth" gold/brass--it's always glittery. Since Bandai "gold" is actually silver-plated with a clear yellow sprayed over, is that the best match anyone's found? (painting silver, then putting clear yellow over it). Maybe mini/gaming/figure paint? They tend to have a lot of metallics for weapons/armor---anyone found a match? I have nearly every "gold" paint pen/marker ever made and none match--too green or too coppery.

PS--hope that Sinanju comes with some nice stickers, or you'll need a steady hand to paint it---the gold "scrollwork" REALLY makes that suit, and it looks pretty bland as just pure black and red.

Not that I have ever tried it or even heard of anyone trying it as I am not into models, but could you not use gold leaf? You know the insanely thin sheets of real gold, I believe the basic process is that there is some kind of adhesive you apply to the area, brush on the gold leaf and buff. I would assume you could clear coat it once you are done. If you could get one or two sheets I don't think it would be that expensive as they are so thin, plus even if it is a little more $ you would always have the satisfaction knowing your final model has some intrinsic value, what with the state of the economy and all.

Edited October 16, 2008 by Crazy Canuck II

[VFTF1]

Ever the Gundam amateur...I am about to embark on my FOURTH Mastergrade kit... this time - Unicorn Gundam.

For now, I have taken out Turn-A, Crossbone and Wing Zero to strike awesome poses on my workbench while I lay the sprues out and slowly prepare for the grueling task ahead... uff... I have to admit I've been a bit spoiled, having built my first Highgrade OOs previously, and being quite pleased with them - it's going to be tough to return to all that bloody detail...

Speaking of which: does anyone else think that the Unicorn Gundam looks like the YF-19 Battroid when it's in "closed" form?

Also; I have yet to panel line a Gundam - but when I think of Panel Lining the Unicorn...it just seems wierd - because the whole point is that it's supposed to be all white (when not opened up)...

anyways - yay Gundam. ra ra ra.

Pete

[GRAND CANNON]

Can anyone please assist with a translation with what is shown in the pic below?

They are exclusive kits and possibly a mail-order (guessing by the mags on the left) and have also had "online exclusive" reported.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

[GRAND CANNON]

There's been this scan floating around of an alleged upcoming MG The-O, but is being called a possible hoax:

But along with this mock-up at the 2002 Shizuoka Hobby Show, could it actually, and finally, become a reality?

[azrael]

There's been this scan floating around of an alleged upcoming MG The-O, but is being called a possible hoax:

You've been trolled.

[GRAND CANNON]

Ha! Nice find!

Never thought of looking at the HGUC scans. Thanks!

[wolfx]

Ever the Gundam amateur...I am about to embark on my FOURTH Mastergrade kit... this time - Unicorn Gundam.

For now, I have taken out Turn-A, Crossbone and Wing Zero to strike awesome poses on my workbench while I lay the sprues out and slowly prepare for the grueling task ahead... uff... I have to admit I've been a bit spoiled, having built my first Highgrade OOs previously, and being quite pleased with them - it's going to be tough to return to all that bloody detail...

Speaking of which: does anyone else think that the Unicorn Gundam looks like the YF-19 Battroid when it's in "closed" form?

Also; I have yet to panel line a Gundam - but when I think of Panel Lining the Unicorn...it just seems wierd - because the whole point is that it's supposed to be all white (when not opened up)...

anyways - yay Gundam. ra ra ra.

Pete

I enjoyed building the unicorn kit. Its pretty complex and has tonnes of moving parts. Make sure you sand down every single last nub after cutting out the sprues. I did not feel the need to panel line since the Unicorn itself has lines all over its armour plates. I only did the head. Beware the V-fins as they break easily. I do not recommend you to transform it from horn to V-fin too much. If you need to, swap with the single piece horn and V-fins rather than transforming the V-fin. A few ppl including me have broke theirs. I got a replacement though. Oh and enjoy putting on the "katoki-style" warning stickers. Tonnes of them.

[David Hingtgen]

That's a question I had---does MG Unicorn have stickers, decals, or transfers for the warning labels?

[azrael]

That's a question I had---does MG Unicorn have stickers, decals, or transfers for the warning labels?

http://dalong.net/review/mg/mg102/p/mg102_r_p.jpg

From the looks of it, all the above (well, the decals are probably stickers).

[David Hingtgen]

Yeah, but that makes little sense (and sucks)---white transfers for a white Gundam, yet the zillion little red warning labels (which are awfully Zoid-esque) are stickers? That's practically a make-or-break factor for me. A Gundam that bland *needs* a bunch of warning markings---but having them all STICKERS? That just sucks, it'd ruin the look having them plastered all over--and no way they'd fit as-is, it'd be a 1000-slice session with the xacto to trim them all.

[wolfx]

That's a question I had---does MG Unicorn have stickers, decals, or transfers for the warning labels?

Warning labels ,They are stickers....after trimming they aren't so bad.

The have dry transfers for the other markings and foil stickers for misc stuff.

[VFTF1]

I enjoyed building the unicorn kit. Its pretty complex and has tonnes of moving parts. Make sure you sand down every single last nub after cutting out the sprues. I did not feel the need to panel line since the Unicorn itself has lines all over its armour plates. I only did the head. Beware the V-fins as they break easily. I do not recommend you to transform it from horn to V-fin too much. If you need to, swap with the single piece horn and V-fins rather than transforming the V-fin. A few ppl including me have broke theirs. I got a replacement though. Oh and enjoy putting on the "katoki-style" warning stickers. Tonnes of them. wacko.gif

Thanks for the tips.

I was kind of dissapointed about the V-fin not being able to really stay aligned when transformed to Unicorn horn... and I guess now with your warning I'll just stop transforming it all together.

Although technically, constant removal of the horn and replacement with the V-fin is bound to wear something or other out ...

I generally get the feeling that the transformation to Psycho mode is very smooth. I've finished everything except the legs, backpack and weapons now and transformed the uper body, arms and head to get a feel for it.

At first, it kind of annoyed me that you have to seperate all of the parts to transform him - but then, I guess it makes sense and it's better than the Gundam falling apart when you start to transform it...

Personally, I prefer it in white Unicorn mode. It reminds me a little bit of the YF-19, but also has a distinct EVA-01 feel to it - and even the "psycho" mode feels EVA-01... after all, EVA also had a "psychotic" mode of sorts....

All in all, this is my fourth MG Gundam and I'm enjoying it like the rest.

The one thing that kind of annoys me is that my Turn-A-Gundam is fairly loose - it holds its' poses, but the shield is too heavy for the arm and so that kind of limits the kind of poses I can put him in... a pity, since Turn A is probably my favorite Gundam design next to Unicorn.

Crossbone I like just because he's a pirate, but really he's pretty mundane. Wing Zero is also mundane; but I like his...err...well wings

But only Turn-A and Unicorn have designs which I can appreciate in their totality.

I'm considering whether to build the Force Impulse Gundam next - all those nifty jet/aircraft/space ship modes look tempting, but he is also kind of one of these "UBER FIRE SUPER POWER UP BANG BOOM" Gundams which I get the feeling dominate Seed and which I'm not too fond of...

Zeta version 2 is also tempting me - but... I dunno... generally I'm more drawn to the really unorthodox Gundams; I like them to really stand out and stand apart from the rest... Turn A and Psycho Unicorn do this.

EDIT: Finished everything but the gun and bazooka. Happy with him:

Pete

Edited October 23, 2008 by VFTF1

[azrael]

1/100 00 Gundam

HG 1/144 Ahead, Mask Man's Ahead, Arios.

HG 1/144 Seravee

MG Infinite Justice review

[VFTF1]

Infinite Justice is ...very...red... I dunno. I appreciate the poseability, and he literally has greaaat legs; legs that kill - literally... and the booster jet is kinda cool, and anything that comes with a stand is always a plus - but somehow I never was and never will be a fan of this type of Gundam design. I think the UC Zeta is fine - but then these things like the Justice just went overboard...

As for OO - he looks good, like everything else from Gundam OO.

But now I'm probably gonna want to get around to building Kyros and Dynames to round out my Celstial Being collection.

Pete

[Morpheus]

I saw a pic of Delta Plus kit from Unicorn somewhere in the web, can anyone confirm this?

Btw, is the Delta Plus transformable?

[GRAND CANNON]

Can anyone please assist with a translation with what is shown in the pic below?

They are exclusive kits and possibly a mail-order (guessing by the mags on the left) and have also had "online exclusive" reported.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Late in posting, but with help from Neo-Era, these are apparent considerations for the 3rd release in the Bandai Pro-Shop Seires and may be announced in this month's hobby mags.

[azrael]

HG 0-Riser/Rasier/Raizer (or however you wanna spell it), HG GN Archer

This one is a HCM-pro but it's a better pic of the GN Archer: http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/7865/1227238998683dz2.jpg

[F-ZeroOne]

I finally got my Master Grade Turn-A back from the builders the other day. Due to my less-than-stellar construction skills, this was put together for me by Nick Bedwell of Screamin' Eagle studios, London, England (http://www.freewebs.com/screamineaglestudios/productpage.htm).

Remember, kids - got 'tache? Got Turn-A Gundam.

Turn-A turn, Turn-A turn, TURN-A!

[azrael]

HG 0-Raizer

MG G-Armor, ver. 2

And everything else (Mr. Bushido's Ahead, Gadesa, 1/100 Cherudim, etc.)

[VFTF1]

Nice Turn-A, F-ZeroOne!

Turn-A is my favorite Gundam design. I built my own, but he is not panel lined... and the cow is not painted

Anyways - I have no painting skills; and I'm afraid to panel line...and don't have the markers anyways... just happy to be able to build 'em

I would eagerly recommend that you try building yours. No glue or cement or anything of the sort necessary - it's like advanced legos and lots of fun

Still - nice to get a shiny well done piece from someone else too

Turn-A turn, Turn-A turn, TURN-A!

Pete

[F-ZeroOne]

Nice poses! I took my photos shortly after getting it and didn't want to move too it too much because I wasn't quite sure how the joints worked and I didn't want to mess up the paint job!

I've put together MG kits before but Turn-A really impressed me when I saw it and I wanted something special for this one. I should have made it clearer that it was painted for me, not just built! The builder actually had to order some Gundam markers for the panel lines, I think they drove him a little bit nuts... And the cow became a sort of running joke between us...!

Now, if we can just get a DVD release sometime before the Universal Century starts...

Edited November 21, 2008 by F-ZeroOne