UN Spacy Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 Hey eugimon. Can you take actual pics of the operation?
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 So could we as fans be able to fix it ourselves? (can't see pic but sounds promising) Could we dissasemble the shoulders and place in there another Pin if yamato are so dumbfounded by it I have tried finding ways, and one possible solution would probably be to get the pins out and reinsert them the right way, but it might not work because: A-even fans who had both pins burr side facing downwards still had breakages B-the pin is so thin that hammering it out might break the hinge and clips even further. My suggestion is to mold the entire thing in white POM, and use the suggestion David mentioned above. A cheap pin should not bring down a $100 toy, that is very disappointing considering how well the new 1/60 turned out otherwise(which is why I am so disappointed with the breakages, it gets in the way of enjoying the damn thing, I am still trying to figure out how to fix mine which has a hairline crack).
Vostok 7 Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 (edited) How are these things so cheap? Is there going to be a -1A Fodder, -1A Low Viz or -1D? If so those will be MUST BUYS as far as I'm concerned. But geez, for ~$80 a pop for these, they seem like a bargain especially considering the non-transforming Destroids are the same price Vostok 7 Edited December 4, 2008 by Vostok 7
ruskiiVFaussie Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 (edited) Awesome, we are lucky to be apart of this Macross community with a bunch of smart guys to figure out Yamato's mess! Edited December 4, 2008 by ruskiiVFaussie
eugimon Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 Hey eugimon. Can you take actual pics of the operation? Sure, I didn't think to take pictures as I was doing it, and it's not the cleanest work ever. The arrow points to where I cut into the wall so I could anchor the metal and I used guerrilla glue to glue it up against the side of the wall. I also had to file the other side of the hinge to let it close smoothly. The metal I used: "Create with Metal" from K&S engineering Tin Sheet Stock No. 254, .008 x 4 x 10" The metal is soft enough to cut with hand tools.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 But geez, for ~$80 a pop for these, they seem like a bargain especially considering the non-transforming Destroids are the same price $80-100+ to pop a shoulder hinge piece off unintentionally as a result of a factory mistake or design flaw is not a bargain. I do see your point, but at that price it is a gamble, you don't know if yours will break.
jenius Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 Good lookin' fix Eugimon! Quick Yamato Impression: "Metal? In a joint? Inconceivable!" Okay, that's kind of unfair considering how metal-tastic the feet are on the Destroid.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 The metal is soft enough to cut with hand tools. Is it strong enough to take pressure from the pin without bending?
eugimon Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 Is it strong enough to take pressure from the pin without bending? So far so good. I think if the hinge had more of a sheering motion there would be problems but as the movement is limited to open and close (for the most part) there doesn't seem to be any issue. Plus it's braced and glued up against the side of the hinge wall so it's not like the metal is taking all of the stress by itself. I think I would look for a similarly thin stainless steel if I were going to do it again though, just to be safe.
m0n5t3r Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 (edited) May be hard to describe, but I think the issue is more the size of the area the pin ends are stuck into. Here, I'll just sketch a bad pic. "A" is how it is, "B" is how I think it'd be better. Frankly--the hinge isn't "even" at all---90% of the plastic is on one side (and the center of the pin), 10% is on the other side (the pin ends)--and the pin is breaking the ends. what if the middle part (between the pin ends) is the one that breaks because the area of the plastic there is lessened? i believe that that part doesn't even cover the whole middle of the pin. Edited December 4, 2008 by m0n5t3r
PC Valkyrie Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 (edited) Haven't posted on MW a LONG time....... Does anyone know whether we will see a 1/60 Max VF-1S (as in DYRL)? That's the one valk I'm hoping to get in this 1/60 size. Edited December 4, 2008 by PC Valkyrie
ff95gj Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 I am also wondering; if there is a Max VF-1S ever released? From whichever manufacturer. The Max VF-1S actually had a longer sequence than the Max 1A and the Kakizaki 1A, or VE-1 in DYRL. I don't even remember seeing a CF 1A in the movie. But all of the latters got their products. Why?! Haven't posted on MW a LONG time....... Does anyone know whether we will see a 1/60 Max VF-1S (as in DYRL)? That's the one valk I'm hoping to get in this 1/60 size.
m0n5t3r Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 Haven't posted on MW a LONG time....... Does anyone know whether we will see a 1/60 Max VF-1S (as in DYRL)? That's the one valk I'm hoping to get in this 1/60 size. just get a Hikky VF-1S and wait for the Max VF-1A. Swap the head+fuselage and wing w/ modex #. but i do hope they make the 1S max coz it seems pretty easy for them to do. however, the v.1 1/60 and 1/48 didn't release a Max 1S...
ruskiiVFaussie Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 (edited) I'd rather get the Max 1S and a 1A from another character (like Kakizaki) to swap between 1S kaki and 1A Max and vice versa. OF all the stupid decisions to not make a Max 1S in 1/48 and other releases. >_< He does jack in the 1A! 1S he takes on teh babe! Edited December 4, 2008 by ruskiiVFaussie
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 I am also wondering; if there is a Max VF-1S ever released? From whichever manufacturer. No. just get a Hikky VF-1S and wait for the Max VF-1A. He is screwed if he just wanted one. Mineswell buy the upcoming VF-1S and just paint the trim on the vertical stabilizers, ventral fins, shoulder triangles, head arrows, and chestplate blue. The Max VF-1S actually had a longer sequence than the Max 1A and the Kakizaki 1A, or VE-1 in DYRL. I don't even remember seeing a CF 1A in the movie. But all of the latters got their products. Why?! Most likely to avoid overlap(as Focker and Hikaru typically have their 1S toys released not too long after each other, Focker could sell on popularity alone and his valk doubles as both a TV series and DYRL valkyrie, Hikaru's sells on account of the last scene in DYRL and because he is the main character), as Max's 1A as well as Kakizaki's serve the purpose of completing the Skull Squadron shown in DYRL. There are brown VF-1A's in the movie, you see them blown up near the end, and being armed with FAST packs in the hangars. The VE-1 is obscure and popular probably because it is obscure, and it is a variant with a ton of stuff on it, the most unique VF-1 variant ever. Does anyone know whether we will see a 1/60 Max VF-1S (as in DYRL)? That's the one valk I'm hoping to get in this 1/60 size. Nothing past the 1D has been announced yet, so who knows? I think the next releases will be Max/Milia VF-1Js bundled with their FAST packs, brown VF-1A, Angel Birds VF-1A, Low Viz VF-1A, repaint VF-1D, and more. I am itching for a TV VF-1A Max Type. Yamato knows there is demand for this as they are offering an limited edition release of it in their 1/48 line. Maybe they will gauge it's popularity by the amount of pre-orders they get for that, and if it is deemed high in demand, make it in their new 1/60 line.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 Can anyone with the new 1/60 VF-1J and a 1/48(any VF-1) check the shoulders on both and tell me if they are made from the same material? I am fairly certain that the 1/48's shoulders are made out of POM, you can definitely feel the difference compared to ABS plastic areas such as the wing. There is a faint difference in color, typically POM tends to be brighter, for example ABS will yellow much, much faster. Even on a new toy, POM is brighter.
ff95gj Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 I get the point of releasing Focker 1S and Hikaru 1S (obviously). However, if they care to release Angelbird (I know there are people who like the AB - but honestly, see what price these birds are being sold at and we know how popular they are), why not Max 1S? I am also waiting for the TV version of Max 1A and Kakizaki 1A (will they release this one too in 1/48? I really wish so). I want my Skull and Vermilion squads! P.S. I already got an extra 1S (at a good deal) to make my Max 1S. No. He is screwed if he just wanted one. Mineswell buy the upcoming VF-1S and just paint the trim on the vertical stabilizers, ventral fins, shoulder triangles, head arrows, and chestplate blue. Most likely to avoid overlap(as Focker and Hikaru typically have their 1S toys released not too long after each other, Focker could sell on popularity alone and his valk doubles as both a TV series and DYRL valkyrie, Hikaru's sells on account of the last scene in DYRL and because he is the main character), as Max's 1A as well as Kakizaki's serve the purpose of completing the Skull Squadron shown in DYRL. There are brown VF-1A's in the movie, you see them blown up near the end, and being armed with FAST packs in the hangars. The VE-1 is obscure and popular probably because it is obscure, and it is a variant with a ton of stuff on it, the most unique VF-1 variant ever. Nothing past the 1D has been announced yet, so who knows? I think the next releases will be Max/Milia VF-1Js bundled with their FAST packs, brown VF-1A, Angel Birds VF-1A, Low Viz VF-1A, repaint VF-1D, and more. I am itching for a TV VF-1A Max Type. Yamato knows there is demand for this as they are offering an limited edition release of it in their 1/48 line. Maybe they will gauge it's popularity by the amount of pre-orders they get for that, and if it is deemed high in demand, make it in their new 1/60 line.
ruskiiVFaussie Posted December 4, 2008 Posted December 4, 2008 Hope your right about the TV Max 1A and limited 1/48 deal. Fingers crossed!
VFTF1 Posted December 5, 2008 Posted December 5, 2008 Well, it's nice to see that the hinge issue on the V.2 1/60 is still being discussed and people are still wondering about it. I am now amongst the wondering:) NO - my perfect unbroken Roy did not suddenly "break." Instead, I opened my second, hitherto unopened Roy and lo - cracked shoulder hinge Epoxy glue mix was put into the crack and he's drying up as we speak. Overall - I have no clue why it was cracked. It came like that out of the box. Whatever - it doesn't bother me much. Functionality is still Ace and hopefully it'll just be a minor boo boo that the glue will stabilize. But it is very very wierd Pete
eugimon Posted December 5, 2008 Posted December 5, 2008 Well, it's nice to see that the hinge issue on the V.2 1/60 is still being discussed and people are still wondering about it. I am now amongst the wondering:) NO - my perfect unbroken Roy did not suddenly "break." Instead, I opened my second, hitherto unopened Roy and lo - cracked shoulder hinge Epoxy glue mix was put into the crack and he's drying up as we speak. Overall - I have no clue why it was cracked. It came like that out of the box. Whatever - it doesn't bother me much. Functionality is still Ace and hopefully it'll just be a minor boo boo that the glue will stabilize. But it is very very wierd Pete be sure to file down the hinge since now a corner will pop out slightly more than the rest of the hinge and is more likely to catch and break off entirely as a result.
VFTF1 Posted December 5, 2008 Posted December 5, 2008 be sure to file down the hinge since now a corner will pop out slightly more than the rest of the hinge and is more likely to catch and break off entirely as a result. Huh? My hinge crack doesn't really show that. Maybe I should be more precise. My hinge is not "broken" - it is slightly cracked. A hairline fracture. I mixed up some epoxe glue and used a sewing pin to insert a few dabs of the glue into where the crack exists, so that it doesn't widen. I don't want to file anything or mess with it any more because it shows no indication of widening the damage. Furthermore - the hairline crack only runs down half the hinge wall on one side - the other half is good - not cracked - so I want it to stay that way. It's so minor that I probably would never have even noticed it if not for all of these threads - this way I looked and saw it right away... I guess I understand what your saying - that this "corner" will indeed stick out and, during transformation, snap off, revealing the pin and destroying the entire mechanism.... But I just don't see it happening - I'm very careful when transforming, and besides - the hinge is not broken - it's not like it's split into two halves jutting in opposite directions. There's just a fracture running down half of one wall. I hope the glue will hold it together.... This only inspires me to buy MORE Roys ! Pete
eugimon Posted December 5, 2008 Posted December 5, 2008 Huh? My hinge crack doesn't really show that. Maybe I should be more precise. My hinge is not "broken" - it is slightly cracked. A hairline fracture. I mixed up some epoxe glue and used a sewing pin to insert a few dabs of the glue into where the crack exists, so that it doesn't widen. I don't want to file anything or mess with it any more because it shows no indication of widening the damage. Furthermore - the hairline crack only runs down half the hinge wall on one side - the other half is good - not cracked - so I want it to stay that way. It's so minor that I probably would never have even noticed it if not for all of these threads - this way I looked and saw it right away... I guess I understand what your saying - that this "corner" will indeed stick out and, during transformation, snap off, revealing the pin and destroying the entire mechanism.... But I just don't see it happening - I'm very careful when transforming, and besides - the hinge is not broken - it's not like it's split into two halves jutting in opposite directions. There's just a fracture running down half of one wall. I hope the glue will hold it together.... This only inspires me to buy MORE Roys ! Pete Well, I did the same thing as you two months back, eventually between catching on the tab or being pulled on hard enough to be pulled up over the tab the epoxy will fail.
Hikuro Posted December 5, 2008 Posted December 5, 2008 Well luckily I got a job interview tomorrow, so if I do and it works out like I want it too, maybe I wont have to cancel all my freaking orders anymore! So I'll finally get back to collecting.
eugimon Posted December 5, 2008 Posted December 5, 2008 Well luckily I got a job interview tomorrow, so if I do and it works out like I want it too, maybe I wont have to cancel all my freaking orders anymore! So I'll finally get back to collecting. best of luck to you!
VFTF1 Posted December 5, 2008 Posted December 5, 2008 Well luckily I got a job interview tomorrow, so if I do and it works out like I want it too, maybe I wont have to cancel all my freaking orders anymore! So I'll finally get back to collecting. Best of luck! Pete
Guest sh002 Posted December 7, 2008 Posted December 7, 2008 there's just going to be too many valkyries to get again and they aren't cheap. so far i've got the vf-1s roy and preordered the vf-1s hikaru. skipped the vf-1a and vf-1j. i might get a vf-1a max and vf-1j max and millia if and when they come out. probably will skip a cf vf-1a and vf-1d. i would definitely get a 1/60 vf-1a tv max if it came out and wasn't an exclusive.
Hikuro Posted December 7, 2008 Posted December 7, 2008 I got the job, giving it 2 weeks to see how it works out, Im' a bit iffy, pizza delivery "14-25 an hour" so they say, but we'll find out. In the meantime, I WANT my order but I can't AFFORD my order, ticks me off so much right now. It'd be a good christmas present.
eugimon Posted December 7, 2008 Posted December 7, 2008 14-25 bucks an hour??? That's crazy... man, I ran a whole department at an e-retailer for around that much and i was working 60-70 hours a week at the time... man was I underpaid.
David Hingtgen Posted December 7, 2008 Posted December 7, 2008 Quick question: do newer releases still have "white" instrument panels, or did they ever fix it to black?
edwin3060 Posted December 7, 2008 Posted December 7, 2008 point to note, I was checking out the first page of this thread, and there is a link to the 1/60 v2 review on the macrossworld.com site, but there is no link to the review from the site toys page itself. Perhaps something got lost in the reboot of the site?
Javabean Posted December 8, 2008 Posted December 8, 2008 Quick question: do newer releases still have "white" instrument panels, or did they ever fix it to black? Yes it does on the 1J. Just wonder why Yamato did it in white??
ruskiiVFaussie Posted December 8, 2008 Posted December 8, 2008 Please guys let everyone know when hlj.com has the shipping notice for the Hikaru VF-1S Strike v.2 1/60.
Javabean Posted December 8, 2008 Posted December 8, 2008 Haven't posted on MW a LONG time....... Does anyone know whether we will see a 1/60 Max VF-1S (as in DYRL)? That's the one valk I'm hoping to get in this 1/60 size. I do hope Yamato will finally make a 1/60 DYRL Max 1S so it can match on my coming 1/60 Queadlunn Rua Miryia
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