Ghostkiller Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 my vf-1s roy also has a 'spring system' for its head but a different one, it randomly springs off when i'm transorming it, hahaahaha :lol: your roy can not look down right ??? or do I have a special proud one
Scream Man Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 I didn't until I found a hairline crack. Weeks went by, then I noticed that I could actually feel the crack. Now I think it is only a matter of time until mine breaks. I have yet to see any signs at all on my ones.
Javabean Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 (edited) Received my 1J yesty. Hv transformed to battroid with no prblms (just like my 1S & 1A). All joints tight as per previous releases. The 1J hv a more pure white than 1/48 1J & even 1/60 1S & 1A. I was bit skeptic at first but grew to like it, the more I look at it, when comparing side by with 1/48. And yes, the FPs hv that accurate TV anime colour. Will try post some pics. I'm personally love the design & size of this new 1/60. As some people said, it hv that slim Hasegawa look. Really looking forward to 1D. I sold some of my 1/48s & thinking maybe let go my 1/48 1J as well. Edited November 21, 2008 by Javabean
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 Received my 1J yesty. Hv transformed to battroid with no prblms (just like my 1S & 1A). All joints tight as per previous releases. The 1J hv a more pure white than 1/48 1J & even 1/60 1S & 1A. I was bit skeptic at first but grew to like it, the more I look at it, when comparing side by with 1/48. Will try post some pics. Do the shoulder hinges seem to look slightly a different shade of white than on the 1S?
Javabean Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 (edited) I think they are also pure white too...let me cfm it tonite. One addn info... the AMM-1 missiles are also pure white. The UUM-7 missile pods is black rather than dark grey of 1S & 1A. Edited November 21, 2008 by Javabean
valhary Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 after see the pics of the official hikaru vf 1s im very disappointed and glad that has already made my custom what happen with the head no yellow light and the arrows dont have black line? unknown the official art so which is badly Hikaru 1 / 48 or this?
MasterOfPuppets Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 after see the pics of the official hikaru vf 1s im very disappointed and glad that has already made my custom what happen with the head no yellow light and the arrows dont have black line? unknown the official art so which is badly Hikaru 1 / 48 or this? I'm pretty sure the head light is supposed to be red (looks orange in the pics which is pretty nice). Macross Mecha Manual shows it red and the animation itself shows it red. I think the 1/48 release was wrong. And that probably isn't the final product, I'm sure it will have the black outline on the arrows. Although it doesn't seem necessary.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 I think they are also pure white too...let me cfm it tonite. Do the shoulder hinges feel any different, as in different materials, more durable, et al?
valhary Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 sorry but demand the same quality in all valkyries
MasterOfPuppets Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 sorry but demand the same quality in all valkyries Screenshot from DYRL. Looks pretty red/orange to me. And this isn't like the red/black heatshield (which I think is rightfully red since his FAST pack skulls are also red in every scene) where it's equally different in each scene, the head light is red/orange in every shot where it's clear enough to see.
honkhet Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 (edited) (sorry.. please ignore this post, it was a reply to an already answered question) Edited November 21, 2008 by honkhet
ff95gj Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 We have the inconsistent problem again for our beloved Macross... In fact I wondered about this too when I got my 1/48s (Focker gets a red light and Hikaru gets a yellow on the head), so I checked the movie. I think it was pretty obvious for Focker to have red light; but I saw Hikaru 1S having black light, red light, and in the final scene when it launched the full ammo attack, it looked like yellow (never managed to capture a good screenshot). Maybe it's just a light, so it can be yellow, red or off (black). Although I would bet my valk... my money that it's the same problem with the heatshield color. And also if I am the Yamato engineer, if I can choose I would choose yellow light too for Hikaru 1S. Enough red already, and especially there are 2 red arrows on the head. And then, on the Hikaru 1S box... Look at the back, and the battroid has red light on the head. So inconsistency is not limited to the anime. Screenshot from DYRL. Looks pretty red/orange to me. And this isn't like the red/black heatshield (which I think is rightfully red since his FAST pack skulls are also red in every scene) where it's equally different in each scene, the head light is red/orange in every shot where it's clear enough to see.
MasterOfPuppets Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 The scene with the black light I just assumed was due to the lighting off the scene. And the final scene is just too flashy to be able to really tell. I think the orange light they used on the pics from Yamato's site looks pretty nice.
Ghostkiller Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 The seem line does exist on the 1S head ?? under the visor !
Javabean Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 (edited) Do the shoulder hinges feel any different, as in different materials, more durable, et al? Hi Shin, The shoulder hinge cfmd is pure white just like the whole body. I feel its about same materials & durability as the 1S & 1A. Can't really tell any differences, in my opinion. Edited November 21, 2008 by Javabean
Javabean Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 Just transformed my 1J back to fighter mode to take this shot. Sorry if the pic doesn't show out clear. So far so good with the transformation Comparison between pure white 1/60 & paler white of the 1/48.
ghostryder Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 The pure white, plus the fact there's no colored stripe right below the neck, really helps camoflage the priest collar
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 The shoulder hinge cfmd is pure white just like the whole body. I feel its about same materials & durability as the 1S & 1A. Can't really tell any differences, in my opinion. Thanks man, I appreciate it. How are the pins installed on the hinge? On my 1S, they are facing opposite directions, the rough end of the pin is facing the top on the left shoulder, where my hairline crack is, while on the right, the rough end of the pin is facing downwards.
Javabean Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 (edited) Not really sure abt that, didn't notice it . I hv to chk it out the next time i change back to Battroid. Edited November 21, 2008 by Javabean
jenius Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 Yeah, have we confirmed now that the real culprit with the shoulders was actually the pin placement? Essentially, if one pin (or both) is installed upside down then you know you have a ticking timebomb. Judging from SDK said it looks like the first thing you check on your 1S would be whether or not there are any rough ends pointing upward. This would also explain how the 1A was magically fixed. Yamato simply called the factory and told them to yell at the guy putting the pins in. Easiest fix ever.
David Hingtgen Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 Ok, making sure---in battroid mode, if the rough end of the pin is up, that's bad?
Grand Admiral Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 Just received my VF-1J Hikaru from Overdrive. They shipped it on Tuesday and I received it today!
jenius Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 (edited) Ok, making sure---in battroid mode, if the rough end of the pin is up, that's bad? That's what it sounds like to me. Rough ends up = bad. That said, I don't have nearly enough personal experience to do any vouching for that method, just seems a good hypothesis. EDIT - darn, I told Overdrive to hold my VF-1J until the next set of CMs ride armors came out... now I'm gonna be jealous of a lot of folks I suspect. Edited November 21, 2008 by jenius
Dobber Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 Wife just called me and told me my VF-1J arrived from overdrive!!! I too had it shipped on tuesday!!! On a different note, can someone explain what pin they are talking about for the shoulders? Chris
VFTF1 Posted November 21, 2008 Posted November 21, 2008 So nice to see all this 1/60 v.2 goodness in full gear! I shall soon join your ranks! My VF-1A Hikaru with SS parts will likely be with me in a week or so - just as soon as customs gets done raping me Then...then...I too shall post many photos and thump my chest with pride Gotta say also - that when looking at the photo galleries of the old 1/60 Version 1s - which back in the day were "wwwoooowww" - these are just so much MORE wow! - and it's not just because of perfect transformation! They truly are amazing works! Can't wait for Max and Milia in DYRL/late TV colors. Have been looking forward to owning that pair for a long, long time now Pete
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 (edited) Just received my VF-1J Hikaru from Overdrive. They shipped it on Tuesday and I received it today! Excellent! That is quick! Yeah, have we confirmed now that the real culprit with the shoulders was actually the pin placement? Essentially, if one pin (or both) is installed upside down then you know you have a ticking timebomb. The only thing to find out is if the guy who had a replacement part break before even installing it had the pin upside down. If the upside down pin is the real issue that is a shame, as such a cheap part mutilates an expensive figure. I've heard people say Yamato's are not meant to be played with, bla bla, but with the new 1/60 VF-1, Yamato has proved that they can make a high durability toy, so long as the guys at the factory assemble the toy correctly. I have had no issues so far with the right arm, and the smooth end of the pin is facing up on that one. I still pose the left arm but now my obstacle is: a-trying to figure out a way to get that pin out, miraculously repair the hinge piece with a hairline crack(which is very small), and reinstalling the pin correctly or b-opting for replacement shoulder hinges. Either way, accessing the shoulder hinges to remove them from the body is not easy. On a different note, can someone explain what pin they are talking about for the shoulders? It is the pin on the shoulder hinge, which enables the hinge to swivel out and in from the body. The theory thus far, is that if the rough end of the pin is facing upwards in battroid mode, breakage is inevitable. However a member did get replacement hinges, and the hinge broke before installation on the toy(he was just testing it out). The mystery right now is which direction were the pins on his replacement parts facing. If you have the pins correctly inserted, then you have no worries. The nose hatch is very easy to dislodge(we previously thought it was difficult), and this toy (with correct pin insertion) is more durable than the 1/48. People have said to handle this like a model kit, I say no, I have one, and provided it has the pins inserted right, it is of high durability. Unfortunately for me, my dilemma is fixing the mistake that the factory workers made. Such a simple mistake is a costly loss on the part of the collector. So those of you with correctly inserted arm pins, you are the lucky ones, I wish mine was like yours. Edited November 22, 2008 by Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0
jenius Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 Well let's not get too far ahead of ourselves. Right now I think we're still at the point where reverse installation of the pin is the leading hypothesis. We haven't actually been able to prove it. The thing to do would be to have people with no problems with their shoulders look to determine if their pins are installed with the smooth end up (regardless of which 1/60 2.0 it is). Then, we just track who has shoulders that break and who doesn't. If the only people who report broken shoulders then are the same people who reported an upside down pin we'll have our irrefutable proof.
MasterOfPuppets Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 Have we even heard of any breakage reports from the VF-1A? For that matter, what about people that bought the single release VF-1S? I've only heard horror stories from people that bought the VF-1S Fast pack combo.
David Hingtgen Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 I think there was at least one broken stand-alone Roy.
adrianop Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 (edited) After almost 3 months, both my stand alone and fast pack 1S valks shoulders are ok. Or maybe Im just not looking at the right place/dont know what Im looking at? Will check later today regarding pins smooth end direction. Edit: No complaints on my 1A Hikaru aswell. Edited November 22, 2008 by adrianop
David Hingtgen Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 Here's pics of where it breaks and what to look for: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?s=&a...st&p=653985 ::edit:: This pic's good too: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?act=...st&id=56990 (you should NOT be able to see any metal--the exposed end of the pin is because the plastic broke off, and so the arm is now only held on by one end--which of course will stress the other end, probably causing that end to fail too)
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 Well let's not get too far ahead of ourselves. After reading another thread, I realized that some people had breakages with the pin installed with the rough side facing downwards. That is how it is like on the right shoulder of my 1S, but the left one is the one that broke, with the rough side of the pin facing up. At this point, all of the reported cases of broken arms are on the 1S only, yet a few members have chimed in and said the material for the shoulders might be the same for all releases. Not sure what to make of this situation and what causes the breakages.
VFTF1 Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 Looking at those pictures, I finally realized what all the fuss was about. Something like that absolutely did not happen on my 1S.... However - it is definitely wierd... how could that piece have broken off? Pete
Getsuga Tenshou Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 Went to some Hobby shops in Akihabara this afternoon. VF-1J with super and strike parts price ranges from 12,100 yen to 13,200 yen depending on the shop. I think the 13,200 ones will still be deducted duty free or something to that effect.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted November 22, 2008 Posted November 22, 2008 Something like that absolutely did not happen on my 1S.... However - it is definitely wierd... how could that piece have broken off? Don't know as of yet, we deducted previously that it was probably because of tight shoulders, however, even with parts loosened, some of us including myself had a crack. I really want to know if the hinges are indeed made out of POM, if it is POM, there is a problem as proven by the breakages on my figure, and others. In this case, diecast is the better alternative provided it will not snap. After extensively handling my 1S, the hinge really feels like ABS more than POM.
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