Dante74 Posted September 12, 2008 Author Posted September 12, 2008 too sleepy to do it properly, but here's a quickie battroid-shot: DYRL-pose!!! Nice! Awesome pose.
misterryno Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 too sleepy to do it properly, but here's a quickie battroid-shot: DYRL-pose!!! HELLS YEAH! AWESOME poses mate!!! THANKS for sharing them!
sil80jdm Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 anybody know an easy way to get the hip bars out from battroid mode? i cant seem to get it out of the nose at all.. thanks guys!
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 anybody know an easy way to get the hip bars out from battroid mode? i cant seem to get it out of the nose at all.. thanks guys! Pull on the back, this will angle the swing bar. Then pull both legs downwards simultaneously. This will pop the nose hatch open. Then, just push the hip bar foward and its out.
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 VF-1S owners: Alright I figured out how to ease the tension on the shoulder hinge. The shoulder armor only stays on due to friction on both sides, so gently lift one side and slide it off. Make sure not to lift too hard since the pegs that connect the armor can break. Afterwards, you have access to both screws that keep the shoulder on. Grab a screw driver, and loosen the screws just a tad, you barely have to screw the screws in to keep the shoulder loose or tight, so each time you loosen or tighten the screws, move the shoulders and tighten/loosen to your tastes. You don't want the shoulders too loose, but certainly not as tight as applied at the factory. Basically you want it between a point where its not so tight as to put too much pressure at the hinge, and not so loose that it can't even hold the gunpod up. The way I have mine set up now, there isn't so much pressure on the hinge, the shoulders are not too loose, and can hold position. They move much better now. In conclusion, while I like the new articulation and this is my favorite VF-1 toy by Yamato, I still think it was a stupid decision to put such a weak shoulder hinge in place without much to secure it in place as to prevent breakage. Hopefully this is rectified in the future. Yes the looser shoulders on the 1A is an improvement, and so is loosening the shoulders on the 1S, but there could be more durable mechanism in place.
eriku Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 VF-1S owners: Alright I figured out how to ease the tension on the shoulder hinge. The shoulder armor only stays on due to friction on both sides, so gently lift one side and slide it off. Make sure not to lift too hard since the pegs that connect the armor can break. Afterwards, you have access to both screws that keep the shoulder on. Grab a screw driver, and loosen the screws just a tad, you barely have to screw the screws in to keep the shoulder loose or tight, so each time you loosen or tighten the screws, move the shoulders and tighten/loosen to your tastes. You don't want the shoulders too loose, but certainly not as tight as applied at the factory. Basically you want it between a point where its not so tight as to put too much pressure at the hinge, and not so loose that it can't even hold the gunpod up. The way I have mine set up now, there isn't so much pressure on the hinge, the shoulders are not too loose, and can hold position. They move much better now. In conclusion, while I like the new articulation and this is my favorite VF-1 toy by Yamato, I still think it was a stupid decision to put such a weak shoulder hinge in place without much to secure it in place as to prevent breakage. Hopefully this is rectified in the future. Yes the looser shoulders on the 1A is an improvement, and so is loosening the shoulders on the 1S, but there could be more durable mechanism in place. THANK YOU Shin. I was wondering if that was how the shoulder plate was held on but I wasn't brave enough to try and lift it off. You did a huge service to us all by putting yours in jeopardy. I know what I'm doing first thing when I get home. It does still bug me that the shoulders don't lock into anything (even if the hinge was metal this would still bug me) but it's good to know that there will be less of a chance of breakage now.
MacrossMan Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 Maui wowie! Got my VF-1A with Super Strike Parts today and I see what all the hype has been about! This this is smooth as butter! Beautifully sculpted! Just plain goregous! Can't wait to get home and tinker with it! OO
misterryno Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 Shin, THANKS ALOT FOR THAT!!! I will be fixing mine or maybe just wait for my second one to fix it. THANKS!!!
misterryno Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 Maui wowie! Got my VF-1A with Super Strike Parts today and I see what all the hype has been about! This this is smooth as butter! Beautifully sculpted! Just plain goregous! Can't wait to get home and tinker with it! OO PICS PICS PICS!!! I hope you enjoy it as much as all the rest of us have. Be sure to ask if you have any questions at all my Ballchinian Brother. OO
Dante74 Posted September 12, 2008 Author Posted September 12, 2008 Ryno just got the best custom title ever! :lol: Maybe you should use this for your avatar.
eriku Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 Ryno just got the best custom title ever! :lol: Maybe you should use this for your avatar. And somewhere a group of Vikings are chanting... "Spam, spam, spam, spam"
Dante74 Posted September 12, 2008 Author Posted September 12, 2008 Made you a custom avatar to go with the new title.
David Hingtgen Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 Anyways... Shin---we need pics, and a more descriptive method of shoulder armor removal. Sorry, but you're going to have to define "side" and which direction to pull it off, etc.
MacrossMan Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 Made you a custom avatar to go with the new title. Yo Ryno, you have got to plug that for your avatar bro! Too funny! OO Hopefully I can get pics of the VF-1A up tonight.
misterryno Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 Thanks Dante!!! How do you like me now?!?
valhary Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 according to yamato´s calendar the vf 1s hikaru is coming first that the vf 1d so why no pics of the vf 1s hikaru?
MacrossMan Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 Thanks Dante!!! How do you like me now?!? Say brother, talk about a picture being worth a thousand words!!! That avatar goes too well with the title! OO
jenius Posted September 12, 2008 Posted September 12, 2008 the VF-1S hikaru has been spotted at a few shows so pics of it are out there. It's really easy, just a few detail changes and since the head is swappable the VF-1A hikaru being out there a mock-up isn't hard at all.
Hurin Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 On-topic please guys. Edit: And no. I didn't do it. Though I certainly agree with the sentiment.
misterryno Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 On-topic please guys. Ummmmmm.....we are on topic. So the VF-1S Hikaru will be out before the 1D? That's cool with me. The Strike Hikky is the one I was the most anyways. Besides of course the VE and VT. I have determined...with how popular the v.2 1/60 line is. Yamato will milk it. And we will all buy in to it.
ron5864 Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 I just got my first 1/60 VF-1S with Super Strike parts from HLJ. All I have to say is WOWWWW!!!!!! This is a huge improvement from the 1/48 versions. The item feels solid. Paint is clean. Parts fit and finish is excellent. Some decals are tampo on instead of stickers. All the joints operate smoothly. I have not played with it yet, but my initial impression is excellent. I will have to take a closer look at this piece of fine art before making my final judgement on Yamato's 1/60 scale version 2.0 valks.
eriku Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 Just gave my 1S Dr. Shin's shoulder adjustment and it worked like a charm. I found the shoulder plates very easy to pop off - just crab the corners on the bottom and pull them outward a little and it slides right off. Putting them back on is even easier. One thing I noticed when adjusting the screws: The right arm, the one that has been breaking for some people, had far tighter screws than the other arm. I had to give the screws on the right arm almost another full turn to get the joint as loose as the left arm.
MacrossMan Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 (edited) I just got my first 1/60 VF-1S with Super Strike parts from HLJ. All I have to say is WOWWWW!!!!!! This is a huge improvement from the 1/48 versions. The item feels solid. Paint is clean. Parts fit and finish is excellent. Some decals are tampo on instead of stickers. All the joints operate smoothly. I have not played with it yet, but my initial impression is excellent. I will have to take a closer look at this piece of fine art before making my final judgement on Yamato's 1/60 scale version 2.0 valks. Mine is still sitting out in the front seat of my car in the garage Ron, but I agree with your sentiments exactly from what I saw at work today. I probably won't get to tinker with it and give it a better assessment until Sunday and hopefully I'll be off from work next week and get to handle it more. Aside from all that, I will be collecting all these bad boys and really could give a hoot less about my v1 1D, Elint, and Super Ostrich. Still cracking up at the spam avatar!!! OO Edited September 13, 2008 by MacrossMan
ron5864 Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 (edited) Mine is still sitting out in the front seat of my car in the garage Ron, but I agree with your sentiments exactly from what I saw at work today. I probably won't get to tinker with it and give it a better assessment until Sunday and hopefully I'll be off from work next week and get to handle it more. Aside from all that, I will be collecting all these bad boys and really could give a hoot less about my v1 1D, Elint, and Super Ostrich. Still cracking up at the spam avatar!!! OO Poor lonely valk sitting in a dark garage. Edited September 13, 2008 by ron5864
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 THANK YOU Shin. I was wondering if that was how the shoulder plate was held on but I wasn't brave enough to try and lift it off. You did a huge service to us all by putting yours in jeopardy. I know what I'm doing first thing when I get home. Shin, THANKS ALOT FOR THAT!!! I will be fixing mine or maybe just wait for my second one to fix it. THANKS!!! No problem guys! Glad I could help. See for me, its irritating to have a toy that is so awesome but have some nuisance piece/parts drag it down. I was determined to find a way to stop those pieces from ruining my satisfaction! I do NOT want any breakages! Shin---we need pics, and a more descriptive method of shoulder armor removal. Sorry, but you're going to have to define "side" and which direction to pull it off, etc. For now I will do my best to describe it. Basically the shoulder armor consists of 2 or more pieces, held by pins, primarily by friction. Friction is the only thing keeping the armor together. The armor is like a polycap, held onto the shoulder by tension. You have to gently lift on of the bottom corners of the shoulder armor from the inside. Then slide it off. There are 2 pegs on the shoulder, but they are wide, and short, the indentations of the shoulder armor go over those. What you need to worry about are the pins connecting the shoulder armor, which is why you have to be very gently when lifting the bottom corners up, and sliding the armor off. Basically the armor feels a lot more complicated than it actually is. By moving it, it gives the impression that there are interlocking pieces within the shoulder assembly itself, but this is not the case, the shoulder armor is more like an outer sleeve slid over the shoulder, but held by tension. Basically when the corners or corners are gently lifted, pull the armor up, and off of the shoulder. A good rule of thumb on tightness is this; if you try to move the shoulder without much force, and its tight enough to where it does not budge, you should loosen the shoulder screws. From what I gather, this is mainly on the VF-1S Focker. Looks like the factory workers already loosened the screws for the 1A Hikaru, and from here on out broken shoulder hinges should not be a problem.
David Hingtgen Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 How tight is the friction in the pins holding the shoulder armor together? I'm thinking back to my YF-19 leg pins shearing apart rather than coming out of their holes (what a nightmare to fix that was). Is there one pin on each side of the shoulder? You use both "pin" and "peg" in your description---are these the same, or are there 2 different sets/things? Is it "pegs hold shoulder armor to shoulder, while pins hold shoulder armor together to itself?"
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 (edited) How tight is the friction in the pins holding the shoulder armor together? I'm thinking back to my YF-19 leg pins shearing apart rather than coming out of their holes (what a nightmare to fix that was). Not extremely tight, just be careful. Basically the reason I was able to pop off the armor is because the pins are on the top halves of the armor, not the bottom. Just be gentle. Is there one pin on each side of the shoulder? You use both "pin" and "peg" in your description---are these the same, or are there 2 different sets/things? Is it "pegs hold shoulder armor to shoulder, while pins hold shoulder armor together to itself?" There are 2 pins I believe on the top of the shoulder armor. The pins and pegs are 2 different things. The pegs are wide and short, and are only on the shoulder so that the armor can be kept in place. They are only on there so that the armor does not pop off when you slide it up and down. None of the pins on the armor go onto the shoulder in any way. Edited September 13, 2008 by Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0
Hurin Posted September 13, 2008 Posted September 13, 2008 Ummmmmm.....we are on topic. Sigh. . . PM sent.
misterryno Posted September 14, 2008 Posted September 14, 2008 Sigh....... I just realized that on the VF-1S sticker sheet there is no "VF" stickers to go near the feet. WTF is with that?
David Hingtgen Posted September 14, 2008 Posted September 14, 2008 ::cough:: I'm trying to sell my Anasazi decal sheet for a 1/60 Roy, and it includes VF decals for the feet ::cough::
Hikuro Posted September 14, 2008 Posted September 14, 2008 WOOO! Tomorrow LAF Toys ships out the Hikaru VF-1A's! I can't wait!
misterryno Posted September 14, 2008 Posted September 14, 2008 WOOO! Tomorrow LAF Toys ships out the Hikaru VF-1A's! I can't wait! I KNOW!!! ME EITHER!!! WOOT WOOT!!! And WOW!!!
misterryno Posted September 14, 2008 Posted September 14, 2008 ::cough:: I'm trying to sell my Anasazi decal sheet for a 1/60 Roy, and it includes VF decals for the feet ::cough:: ::cough:: ....I know....I've been conteplating all day on weather or not I would need those for the amount of the decals that I would actually use from that sheet. I don't think it would be worth it for me. I do wish you the best of luck with getting rid of them though. I spoke with Ballchinian Brother MacrossMan about them even but he wanted some for a 1A I believe.::cough::
miriya Posted September 14, 2008 Posted September 14, 2008 Interesting how the last three posters here all have custom titles. Ryan's keeps changing I noticed. But on topic, I am having a real hard time waiting for the VF-1J hikaru to come out as that was going to be my first purchase of this line followed by the VF-1D. But That VF-1A Hikaru is looking so nice I may get itchy trigger finger. It is really hard to hold out. I am even considering getting it and then selling it once the 1J comes out. Is that a stupid idea?
misterryno Posted September 15, 2008 Posted September 15, 2008 Interesting how the last three posters here all have custom titles. Ryan's keeps changing I noticed. But on topic, I am having a real hard time waiting for the VF-1J hikaru to come out as that was going to be my first purchase of this line followed by the VF-1D. But That VF-1A Hikaru is looking so nice I may get itchy trigger finger. It is really hard to hold out. I am even considering getting it and then selling it once the 1J comes out. Is that a stupid idea? I know.....I don't know why my title keeps changing.....but I like this one. Now that I said that it will probably get changed. . But on topic as well, if I am to deduce your situation it is that your itchy trigger finger is due to all the hype of this long awaited PT Valk. that is a damn nice size, weight, an all around beautiful piece of craftsman ship. The 1A I am getting as well. I will not miss out on 1 in this 1/60 line. It is just too nice of a line to pass up. I will even be selling the rest of my TFs if need be. One more thing...the idea of buying the 1A and then selling it once you get the 1D is NOT a bad idea at all. I would do it....you can sell it to me. I WILL buy it from you.
Recommended Posts