MacrossMan Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I've been researching customizing Waterslide decals and wondering if anyone here has any experience with them. Specifically the type of printer needed, best supplier for paper, and any special software needed and where to get artwork for creating Macross decals in 1/48 scale and possibly others. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! OO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie addict Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 look here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly4victory Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 (edited) Valkyrie addict, The topic seems to have disappeared but when Anasazi37 stopped making decals a few others started to work on that problem. First you need a scanner or can use the decal scans in the model section. I use a Epson 1670 flat bed. For a printer I have a Canon 520 Bubble Jet. Yes it is old and Bubble Jets suck when it comes to water slide decals. CAN"T DO WHITE For the paper and sealing spray I got a kit made by Super Cal. The have kits for both Bubble Jet and Laser. You will also need a computer program to clean up and resize your scans. I use MS paint. This is not the program to use since the edges are very pixelated and changing the size of the images really distorts tings. When it is time to print I run a plain sheet of paper to check the size and color. Then I print the decal sheet. The printed decal sheet must be completely dry. Do not set anything on it or touch it. Once dry use the sealing spray. You now have a sheet of decals. When I use the decals I cut them out and then spray them again to ensure they are sealed. If water gets under the seal they will be ruined. They are very fragile and a little thick. I use a clean paint brush to slide the decals into place and then seal with a coat of Future. I have never tried any of the setting solutions so I don't know how my homemade decals would work. I just use very hot water. Here is a link to the VF-0 that I did as a test run. http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/toys/m...ms/IMG_1274.jpg I used a scan of the M0 F-14 as the basis. Edit: Don't type cross eyed. Edited July 24, 2008 by Fly4victory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly4victory Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Found the old thread: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...t=0&start=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orguss01 Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 (edited) I just bought a 8 1/2 X 11 sheet of EXPERTS CHOICE #124 clear decal film.. I was gonna try and make decals for my custom JM, anyone try this brand?? I am very hesitant to use, dont think i'm ready for this yet, plus all I have is a inkjet... If i cannot return them maybe i'll offer up for sale.. pm if anyone is interested... Edited July 24, 2008 by orguss01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 As far as software you will need any program that can save as vector graphics, that way they are 100% scaleable and will print exactly as you have made them with no distortions etc. I use Serif Draw and Page plus as they can do vector and are easy to use, most of the Serif range is available in download as well as buy on disk. If you go to their web site they have all the detail. You can get older versions of the software from download sites etc and often on computer magazine cover disks. They are somewhat cheaper than the Adobe range of products. I use them for printing decals for RC cars and Replacement decals that I messed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 (edited) For those in the US, Micro Mark has some great stuff: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...ment&ID=104 Just click on the category you need in the red box. I've made several sheets before in ink and toner. My advice: Ink: allow the sheets to dry thoroughly! Then use a good spray on fixative coating AFTER they have dried. Do not use a spray enamel (clear coat) to cut corners with. Your ink will run! Make a few light coats of the fixative. Toner: less likely to smear. One warning, sometimes the heat from the printer fuser makes the decal plastic brittle. Coat it with the fixative and then coat with clear decal making coating. Good for ressurecting old decal sheets that go brittle too. Make up some test area too and experiment. Thicknesses may vary and how much setting solution you need if used on bumpy surfaces. In the end, it WELL WORTH IT! Except for not being able to print white, it awesome! - MT Edited July 25, 2008 by MechTech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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