m0n5t3r Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) wow, more casualties... one of the shoulder hinges on my Roy 1S has some itsy-bitsy stress marks around the fat end of the pin... afraid to transform him anymore... any materials engineers here know how to reinforce plastics??? something that can be applied like paint??? Yamato should just put in a pin that doesn't have a fat end... only on that end are the cracks/breakages/stress marks happening. if they don't want to do another mold for thicker plastic parts then that's what they should do. Edited January 8, 2009 by m0n5t3r Quote
logos Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) There is obviously a problem with the material used for the 1S run or it`s something to do with the shoulder being to tight (stressing the hinge while moving the shoulder). It`s the same hinge that is being used on the 1A as far as I can tell nobody has been reporting problems on the 1A which is supposed to have a looser shoulder. I just hope that once I get the replacement parts they don`t have the same problem. Does anyone who ordered replacement shoulder hinges know if they came with decent instructions for the replacement? Also does anyone know what the part numbers are for the left and right should assemblies? Overdrive says they are supposed to be in the manual but I have the manual at work (where I appreciate my 1S) and I can't check to confirm. Edited January 8, 2009 by logos Quote
Cent Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) Lol, Jepoyako what are your GNUs doing on the edge of that toilet bowl Dont do it man! Life is worth living! Edited January 8, 2009 by Cent Quote
mr.chogokin Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 Lol, Jepoyako what are your GNUs doing on the edge of that toilet bowl Dont do it man! Life is worth living! No, it's just a pissing contest. Quote
adrianop Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 Like Jepoyako, voted perfect for both my VF-1S and VF-1S with S&S Parts waaay back. Both now have a crack on the left shoulder. My VF-1A with S&S is still crack free. Quote
VFTF1 Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 No, it's just a pissing contest. Heh That's not only fantastic - but it's sooo true to character for Dyson and Guld! I can just see them doing that... "Look Myung! I can pee farther than Guld! I'm the best!" "No way! I'm just getting started - you'll be out of pee in a few seconds and then you'll see how long we Zendradi can pee!" "Oh yeah! Well I'm gonna drink water while peeing and that'll mean I'll pee longer than you!" "No! Myung won't accept that cheap victory - she only wants an authentic pee-er!" I can just see them having a peeing contest while in high school And then trying to repeat it with their YFs Great avatar Pete Quote
logos Posted January 8, 2009 Posted January 8, 2009 There is obviously a problem with the material used for the 1S run or it`s something to do with the shoulder being to tight (stressing the hinge while moving the shoulder). It`s the same hinge that is being used on the 1A as far as I can tell nobody has been reporting problems on the 1A which is supposed to have a looser shoulder. I just hope that once I get the replacement parts they don`t have the same problem. Does anyone who ordered replacement shoulder hinges know if they came with decent instructions for the replacement? Also does anyone know what the part numbers are for the left and right should assemblies? Overdrive says they are supposed to be in the manual but I have the manual at work (where I appreciate my 1S) and I can't check to confirm. Checked my manual today and there is no list. If it is in the transformation instructions I am SOL as I can't read Japanese. So does anyone know what the part number is? Quote
len_d69 Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) MAJOR Warning!!! My 1J's shoulder cracked. And it happened without me even touching it !!! Edited January 11, 2009 by len_d69 Quote
m0n5t3r Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) sorry to hear this, man... guess i'll be modding the hinge pins on my 1J after all... @len - just a suggestion... if you're planning to fix that cracked hinge, you could get the pin out first and sand it before super-gluing the crack. to be on the safe side, still put some oil/lubricant coz i've tried pushing it out w/out any lube, and the pin wouldn't budge and the crack might worsen if it's forced. good luck fixing it. Edited January 11, 2009 by m0n5t3r Quote
len_d69 Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 sorry to hear this, man... guess i'll be modding the hinge pins on my 1J after all... @len - just a suggestion... if you're planning to fix that cracked hinge, you could get the pin out first and sand it before super-gluing the crack. to be on the safe side, still put some oil/lubricant coz i've tried pushing it out w/out any lube, and the pin wouldn't budge and the crack might worsen if it's forced. good luck fixing it. Thanks man, I'll do that. Now I wished I saved the money and bought DX Ozma instead Quote
VFTF1 Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 Pish posh. I just got done re-arranging/moving my entire Macross collection and took both my "broken/cracked" Roy and not cracked/perfect Roy v.2s out of the box. The cracked Roy got transformed and he's still fine. It's a bigger crack than the one on the picture and I just mixed up some epoxy (a+b) and left it to dry for one night and it's fine. It also in no way ruins the look of the piece. Don't give up on the v.2 Buy buy buy:) You know in your heart you wanna And buy the DX too Pete Quote
nugundamII Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 (edited) Just a quick question After so many QC issues. Do you think Japanese customers are complaining to Yamato? By now they should not have any QC issues after release after release they keep having issues and it seems Japanese customers are either happy with their products or they are too afraid to say anything. Don t they care? Some Excuses maybe? They can only get one chinese factory to make them where the workers are blind deaf and dumb The engineers think they are smarter than everyone else and are stupid! (The definition of stupidity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results) They cant afford different kinds of plastics to ensure things dont crack or break???? They think that looks are higher in priority vs durability. and Lastly Are we the ones that are stupid that keep buying albeit a very nice mecha but expensive for what you get considering we are afraid to transform them, we have to spend time fixing them and treat them as a Bandai 1/144 Zeta Gundam??? PS Im not raising the Bandai vs Yamato I just want to understand what is motivating a company not to improve its product over several years. Edited January 11, 2009 by nugundamII Quote
edwin3060 Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 I think Yamato has improved over the years, since their Tab B days. Most of the current breakages are just cracks, and the average buyer might not even notice them, if not for this forum. Maybe the Japanese/Hkers just aren't as anal about cracks as some people on these boards are? Quote
maverick_1 Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 mine's broken, after 2days. well, i basically transformed mine from Fighter mode to Gerwalk mode. and while removing the missiles from the peg (on the wing), the peg while holds the missile is broken. i'm wondering if i should epoxy the peg back on the wings.. nonetheless, im disapppointed. after thinking for past 3months, i finally gotten it on Sat (2days ago), and today it's already broken! bummer Quote
IXTL Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 mine's broken, after 2days. well, i basically transformed mine from Fighter mode to Gerwalk mode. and while removing the missiles from the peg (on the wing), the peg while holds the missile is broken. i'm wondering if i should epoxy the peg back on the wings.. nonetheless, im disapppointed. after thinking for past 3months, i finally gotten it on Sat (2days ago), and today it's already broken! bummer Which v2 1/60 figure is yours? Quote
lechuck Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 I had the exact same breakage, same wing and attachment point. Mine was the VF-1S Hikaru Valkyrie. To repair it, I used a dab of super glue on the edges of the circular hole and stuck the piece back on. Seems to be holding well, although I am way more careful now. Quote
VFTF1 Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 After so many QC issues. Do you think Japanese customers are complaining to Yamato? By now they should not have any QC issues after release after release they keep having issues and it seems Japanese customers are either happy with their products or they are too afraid to say anything. Graham wrote that Yamato told him they recieved no news from Japanese customers about any breakages. I imagine that part of the reason might be that, if something breaks, a Japanese customer can just order a new part for fairly cheap; and the hassel of complaining to Yamato is greater than the cheapness of just acquiring a new part. Don t they care? Some Excuses maybe? They can only get one chinese factory to make them where the workers are blind deaf and dumb The engineers think they are smarter than everyone else and are stupid! (The definition of stupidity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results) They cant afford different kinds of plastics to ensure things dont crack or break???? Actually - I think it has more to do with the design than with the production process. If you want perfect, sleek valkyrie, then the design lends itself towards fragility. The version 2.0 is a HUGE STEP FORWARD in durability. I can't see how anyone who has handled it can say otherwise. It is very very durable and very tough. This doesn't mean it's still not delicate, but it's miles ahead of previous Yamato products - and certainly miles ahead in durability when compared to other 1/60 scale Yamatos (like the Mac Plus and Zero figures). Are we the ones that are stupid that keep buying albeit a very nice mecha but expensive for what you get considering we are afraid to transform them, we have to spend time fixing them and treat them as a Bandai 1/144 Zeta Gundam??? I don't feel like I'm stupid. I have about 10 or 15 (have to go and count) Yamato valkyrie and I am very very satisfied with all of them. The v.2 1/60 is the most durable to date, and certainly the best VF-1 produced to date. As for Bandai' 1/144 Zeta Gundam ... what is wrong with it? I don't have it, but I do have OO 1/144s and they seem quite tough to me. I just want to understand what is motivating a company not to improve its product over several years. Yamato have always had great products. The version 1.0 1/60 was great because it aimed at anime accuracy and a sleak design instead of submiting to the "must be chunky" theory of figure building. It was the first serious attempt to make a transformable and anime accurate variable valkyrie fighter and for its' time it was great. the 1/48s achieved perfect transformation and are perfectly durable. The v.2 1/60 VF-1 improved on them in terms of design aesthetic, sculpt, durability, and play-value (removable cockpit etc). Also, they are finally being sold as sets with super and strike parts. As for the YF-19 and YF-21 (but especially the YF-19) - Please. How can you say that the company has not improved its products. Compared the 1/60 YF-19 to the 1/72 version. If that's not an improvement - then I don't know what is. Pete Quote
maverick_1 Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 Which v2 1/60 figure is yours? VF-1S, Roy Focker. somehow, Roy Focker's valkyrie, especially with its yellow color looks more pleasing to me well, this is suppose to be a birthday present for myself..looks like my present will be with a dab of epoxy/glue! and another thing is, i started noticing some strain (or perhaps visible cracklines) on the shoulder hinge. (and it's only 2days old) somehow the plastic seems too soft for the numerous movement around the shoulders esp during transformation. lechuck, thanks for your advice. would a dab of superglue works better than an epoxy? hmm..still thinking cheers to all Quote
BlueMax Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 I'm personally leaning towards epoxy (used it myself). basically epoxy can act as a putty and yet maintain a strong bond between the 2 past, effectively making the hinge radius wider for the offending fat end of the pin. also, epoxy is a little more think, and thus will give you alot more control over normal super glue Only thing is that it is just a little troublesome (gotta mix parts A and B) and that it takes a little while to set properly Quote
maverick_1 Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 I'm personally leaning towards epoxy (used it myself). basically epoxy can act as a putty and yet maintain a strong bond between the 2 past, effectively making the hinge radius wider for the offending fat end of the pin. also, epoxy is a little more think, and thus will give you alot more control over normal super glue Only thing is that it is just a little troublesome (gotta mix parts A and B) and that it takes a little while to set properly thanks bluemax.. unfortunately i'm done with superglue. btw, just tested the broken part, loaded the missile onto the wing, then deliberately removed it. so far so good now, i guess the next step would be to mod the hinge on the shoulders. there's already some strain on the piece and it looks kinda scary. i'm wondering how do i remove that hinge from the main body?? btw, one thing is for sure..i seriously do like the VF-1S and it seems well made. except for some minor issues. good day to all.. cheers Quote
Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0 Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 Graham wrote that Yamato told him they recieved no news from Japanese customers about any breakages. I imagine that part of the reason might be that, if something breaks, a Japanese customer can just order a new part for fairly cheap; and the hassel of complaining to Yamato is greater than the cheapness of just acquiring a new part. Yamato always tells Graham that. They said the same exact thing when the VF-0 arm breakages occurred soon after the 0S was first release, and also when the Bp8's broke after the first 1/48 was released at the end of 2002. They think that looks are higher in priority vs durability. Yes. It also helps that they know most people here will buy them. I just want to understand what is motivating a company not to improve its product over several years. I think it is because they were the only game in town for all new, perfect variable Macross toys these past 8 years. They could relax because there was no competitor in sight with a same scale license. There was no one else to go to but them. They cant afford different kinds of plastics to ensure things dont crack or break???? The designs are brilliant. You look at what they came up with 9 years ago when they first started out with their YF-19 and other Macross Plus toys and nothing came close. For some reason, a lot of problems aren't identified during testing. Whoever is doing the testing of the toys and running them through their cycles is obviously missing somethings. And these things add up over time. It could be Yamato underestimating their customers like back in the day. Back when the v1 1/60 came out, the Hikaru 1A's backpack was not secure at all in fighter mode, so if you turned it upside down, the backpack would go limp and fall down. Yamato said that they never anticipated their customers to do barrel rolls with their valkyrie. They even went as far to say that some Japanese customers were taking the valks into the shower with them, and they hadn't seen that coming. I didn't either but still the barrel roll comment surprised me. I can handle delays so long as the toys end up sound. Everyone made a huge deal when this new qc guy came onboard and was responsible for the SV-51 and YF-21 turning out relatively problem free. It puzzles me how those two designs, which are much, much, more complex than the v2 1/60 VF-1, turned out relatively problem free and we have the comparitively simple v2 VF-1 turn out with broken shoulder hinges. If diecast hinges would solve the problem then I am all for it, I don't care if it is bare metal, just so long as it doesn't break. Quote
Valkyrie addict Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 I heard from a friend in japan who knows someone at yamato that this time they are aiming at extra anime accuracy about valks that got damaged or destroyed so they dipped the Fokker 1s in pineapple juice and the hikki 1j got shaken violently to recreate his bad flying and thats why they are breaking... We should thanks yamato for such attention to details haha Quote
Batou Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 Finally broke down and picked up a Hikkie 1S since I skipped that one in 1/48. I swore to myself I'm not going to double up on any of these stupid things, just because a "new" version is out ... I have to say I'm fully in love with the thing. Not a hint of floppiness, nothing's fallen off after a few transformations. I couldn't be happier with it. It's such an improvement over the old 1/60 line, I may reconsider getting a few of these ... at least another brownie CF and maybe a TV Max and/or Kakizaki if they ever come out. Anyway, I knew I'd like it, but not this much. I am very pleasantly surprised. Quote
Kyp Durron Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 mine's broken, after 2days. well, i basically transformed mine from Fighter mode to Gerwalk mode. and while removing the missiles from the peg (on the wing), the peg while holds the missile is broken. i'm wondering if i should epoxy the peg back on the wings.. nonetheless, im disapppointed. after thinking for past 3months, i finally gotten it on Sat (2days ago), and today it's already broken! bummer You do know that you have to turn the missiles towards the fuselage to unlock them from the holder before pulling them off, right? -Kyp Quote
valhary Posted January 12, 2009 Posted January 12, 2009 i said with the yf 19 and i repeat with this new vf 1 the part that join the shoulder has to be made in metal Quote
barurutor Posted January 15, 2009 Posted January 15, 2009 Inspected my 1st release Roy VF-1S a couple of days ago. Damn! Both shoulders have cracks thanks to the pins. Gotta try monster's fix before playing with it any further. Voted perfect way back when I got it in September 2008. Guess I can't change it now. Quote
Justin Li Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 I checked my 1st release Roy VF-1S several days ago. Both shoulders were cracked. So sad. >_< Quote
Graham Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 So far the shoulders are still OK on all three of my Roy VF-1S. Graham Quote
vf_1s Posted January 20, 2009 Posted January 20, 2009 I have a Roy vf-1s, and the shoulder hinge is broken. But it is fine now, with a bit of crazy glue. Actually looking forward to getting my Hikaru VF-1s Quote
unclechopchop Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 I just got both the VF-1S and VF-1A, and I have to say....WOW. I never thought I would see such quality from Yamato. I am absolutely stunned. Going from the V.1 1/60's to the 1/48's, and on to this. I absolutley love what they have achieved. Granted they could have integrated some die-cast, I still think that it really has a solid feel to it. I do often hear about this shoulder hinge thing. I hope that it's an easy fix, or Yamato clears the problem up in time. The quality control has jumped a million points in my book. I imagined that they would be better than the past innovations, but jeez. I had zero, none , nada, ideas that they would turn out to be such a good toy. I only hope people can enjoy this thing as much as I am. I know when things break, it does suck something fierce. Other than the shoulder thing, just be careful, and I imagine you will be very very happy with your purchase. There is one thing though, and that's my opinion about which carnation looks the best. I have to stick with the 1/48's as far as looks go. If all you can get is the 1/60 scale, screw what I think. It's just a stupid opinion. I'm dumb enough to have both! Quote
VFTF1 Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 Happy to hear you like the new 1/60s Uncle Chochop. At least we agree here It is a big step forward. Also, my VF-1S Roy is 2 months old and his shoulders are fine. My second VF-1S Roy is also two months old, and his minorly cracked and epoxied shoulder is also fine. 1A Hiky is crack free and I should be getting my Hiky Js in a couple of days. Yay me Pete Quote
GGemini Posted January 21, 2009 Posted January 21, 2009 Seeing this thread resurrected, I checked my VF-1J: fine... VF-1S: perfect. And I decided to check the second VF-1S that I have kept in the box, never been transformed... BROKEN.... Going to buy glue tomorrow... Here are the pics: Quote
jonwayne Posted January 31, 2009 Posted January 31, 2009 Just opened my VF-1S Roy Strike. It came broken. Both shoulder. Is this problem only happening to VF-1S? My 1A and 1J are ok. Quote
edwin3060 Posted January 31, 2009 Posted January 31, 2009 Where did you buy your 1S from? It may have been the first production run of 1S v2, which has a higher complaint rate than the others. Quote
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