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Poll: Is your v.2 1/60 VF-1S broken or perfect?


Yamato v.2 1/60 VF-1S broken or perfect?  

266 members have voted

  1. 1. Broken or Perfect? Lets see the numbers.

    • Mine is Perfect! Thank you Yamato!
      162
    • Mine is Broken! Thanks for nothing!
      58
    • Mine is not broken or perfect but I have complaints.
      44


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Posted

I realy like these new 1/60 so far, just as Graham said it to be, cant help staring at it, just the right size, in fact I brought it to my office desk:)

cant wait for the new variations to arrive...

Posted
Ohh? i thought there was some extra type of articulation in the legs? have you got a 1/48? is it the same or?

Not too worried coz the 1/48 legs were ok, not great (like 19/51 legs - and i do know they are different valks lol)

Nope, I don't own a 1/48 yet :) well, hopefully if a deal pushes through this weekend, I'll be able to own a 1/48 instead of a second 1/60 :lol: Actually, there's a healthy amount of articulation, there was just a certain post I wanted to do but I couldn't, but it's no biggie :D

_DSC7355.jpg

_DSC7350.jpg

I wanted the left shin to face forward, but as said, it's really very minor :)

Posted
I'd also like to know those that voted on these:

"Mine is not broken or perfect but I have complaints. " For one, it'll help Yamato improve their products further.

Though I voted for perfect, I do have a few very minor complains (that didn't really affect my overall score):

1. The visor's too dark that it's almost black.

2. Yamato's stickers still leave much to be desired.

3. It's tricky to transform due to the way you have to place/remove the t-brace to the nose cone.

4. Additional articulation in the legs could've helped more but really, it doesn't mean that current articulation doesn't cut it.

No other complaints here. Much was said about the giraffe neck, but it frankly didn't bother me at all.

1. See, that doesnt bother me to much, but I also wouldnt say no to a lighter visor

2. Really? I think these ones are MUCH better. They seem thinner....

3. Yeah, that's a pain...

4. again, agreed

Posted
Nope, I don't own a 1/48 yet :) well, hopefully if a deal pushes through this weekend, I'll be able to own a 1/48 instead of a second 1/60 :lol: Actually, there's a healthy amount of articulation, there was just a certain post I wanted to do but I couldn't, but it's no biggie :D

_DSC7355.jpg

_DSC7350.jpg

I wanted the left shin to face forward, but as said, it's really very minor :)

nice pics pare...

one other complaint... seems the paint application on the metal parts are still the same w/ the 1/48s... if you're not really careful, the paint will chip off gradually after a few transformations... :angry:

Posted

I have to say that these numbers are getting better as the roys come rolling in. That is what I expected and that is making my itchy finger nearly press the premature trigger of BUY BUY BUY!!!!!!

Posted
nice pics pare...

one other complaint... seems the paint application on the metal parts are still the same w/ the 1/48s... if you're not really careful, the paint will chip off gradually after a few transformations... :angry:

ei pare, thanks :D

metal parts here are much fewer than the old 1-60's :) at least that'll help minimize that :) I think only the t-bar's the metal part here :)

Posted

Guys,

I think its already been asked here, but do any of you have an idea on how to effectively remove the swing bar? seems like its realy hard to detach once its already been secured unlike in the 1/48s...

Posted
Guys,

I think its already been asked here, but do any of you have an idea on how to effectively remove the swing bar? seems like its realy hard to detach once its already been secured unlike in the 1/48s...

did it just now... unfastening the swing bar from the backpack helps as it gives you more space to work with. try pulling the cover (w/ care!) w/ your 2 index fingers on both sides until you free the connection of the metal bar from the cover... after its free it just slides up... worked for me.

Posted
did it just now... unfastening the swing bar from the backpack helps as it gives you more space to work with. try pulling the cover (w/ care!) w/ your 2 index fingers on both sides until you free the connection of the metal bar from the cover... after its free it just slides up... worked for me.

Thanks for the tip ^_^ seems like this is just the problem Im facing with the V.2 1/60, already having a hard time securing the bar in the first place :ph34r:

Posted
Thanks for the tip ^_^ seems like this is just the problem Im facing with the V.2 1/60, already having a hard time securing the bar in the first place :ph34r:

just wiggle it in (sound obscene <_< )... just make sure not to make the cover go sideways too much (that might've been the cause of the reported breakage). it would have been better if the cover was attached using plastic nubs on both sides, if it pops out you can just pop it back in...

Posted
just wiggle it in (sound obscene <_< )... just make sure not to make the cover go sideways too much (that might've been the cause of the reported breakage). it would have been better if the cover was attached using plastic nubs on both sides, if it pops out you can just pop it back in...

Yah, just like the YF-19 and 21....will transform this Jet back to fighter mode, as most of my 1/48s are in battroid. still waiting for the VF-1A to arrive, Billy of best toys said ETA is around September.

Seems like my wallet will never be happy these coming months with all the releases, not to mention the SOC Daimos is also due nextmonth :rolleyes:

Posted
Yah, just like the YF-19 and 21....will transform this Jet back to fighter mode, as most of my 1/48s are in battroid. still waiting for the VF-1A to arrive, Billy of best toys said ETA is around September.

Seems like my wallet will never be happy these coming months with all the releases, not to mention the SOC Daimos is also due nextmonth :rolleyes:

still thinking if i will get the 1A (waiting for news about hikky 1S), might just wait for the release of the 1/60 1J and 1D (x2!)...

BTW, is your 19 the latest re-issue? still holding off on buying the 19 'til there's confirmation that all of them have the fixes.

Posted (edited)

I think a lot of people's wallets are going to be screaming "OH GOD PLEASE....no more, I can't take anymore!!!1111" with the way Yamato is gonna be hammering out one new 1/60 VF-1 variant after another.

Better get ready to be poor for the next year or so. :p

-Kyp

Edited by Kyp Durron
Posted (edited)
still thinking if i will get the 1A (waiting for news about hikky 1S), might just wait for the release of the 1/60 1J and 1D (x2!)...

BTW, is your 19 the latest re-issue? still holding off on buying the 19 'til there's confirmation that all of them have the fixes.

Hmmm...I guess its the latest issue, no problems so far, gunpod is OK, no stress mark etc....got this last Feb. will have to get a fold booster for the 19:)

I do hope they will release Max and Miriya's VF-1J, although I have them in 1/48, will not hesitate to get another pair if indeed they are available.

Edited by Alain
Posted

After playing for two days and repeated transformations my VF-1S is PERFECT!!!

It's up there with the YF-21 in terms of quality ;)

Rock solid and tight!!!

Posted

I'm having a bit of trouble believing the "broken" votes. Who would vote "broken" and then not even bitch about it in a post? If mine was broken, I assure you everyone would hear about it, because not only am I a whiner, but I'd want to warn people about what might break.

Posted

For those of you having problems with the swing bar, double and triple check that you've walked the nosecone/fuselage all the way up or all the way down. The first time I transformed the toy thinking "I've transformed a million valks, this won't be a problem" i had a devil of a time with the swing bar because I hadn't brought the nosecone up all the way. Now that I know how to manipulate my cone properly, it's a lot easier to swing.

Posted
Now that I know how to manipulate my cone properly, it's a lot easier to swing.

It's always easier when you know how to manipulate your cone :lol:

Posted

My vote for the toy was that it was perfect! My only complaint was for the box. Not anything on yamato, just plain shipping bad luck. HLJ's box isn't a snug fit and they did not wrap the toy box with bubble wrap or anything. The shipping box was beat up a bit and caused some stress marks on the toy box.

Loving this toy!

Posted
My vote for the toy was that it was perfect! My only complaint was for the box. Not anything on yamato, just plain shipping bad luck. HLJ's box isn't a snug fit and they did not wrap the toy box with bubble wrap or anything. The shipping box was beat up a bit and caused some stress marks on the toy box.

Loving this toy!

My HLJ shipping was kind of like yours as well where they just put it in a box and wrapped a thin plastic wrap over it. Is HLJ skimping on their packaging now? No bubble wrap, no peanuts no air cushions just a little plastic wrap? :angry:

Posted
My HLJ shipping was kind of like yours as well where they just put it in a box and wrapped a thin plastic wrap over it. Is HLJ skimping on their packaging now? No bubble wrap, no peanuts no air cushions just a little plastic wrap? :angry:

At least your's had plastic wrap! So your toy box was damaged too?

Posted

OK, transformed from fighter to batttroid and back to fighter. The only thing that irks me is that the gunpod does not attach to the forearm - the hole in the gun is too big, and it just falls off <_< .

Gun stays on just fine in fighter mode, at least 4mm off the ground.

Other than that, this thing is frackin perfect - all joints are tight, no missing parts, perfect paint and tampo printing, straight skulls, and nicely balanced proporations in all modes - if you don't lock the chest down in battroid, you can minimize the giraffe neck and still have the heatshield cover the canopy completely.

Some advice to avoid some of the documented breaking issues:

1. When transforming the arms, be sure to handle the shoulder hinge, not the shoulder ball joint or pulling the forearm. This also holds true for posing the arms - grasp the hinge with one hand while moving the ball joint, to minimize stress on the hinge. Personally, I'm ok with this issue, as I would rather have the ball joint too tight, than flopping all around like my Zero.

2. Swing bar detachment from nose section going from battroid to fighter - as Jenius said, first disengange the swingbar from the back plate. Then if you hold the Valk facing away from you and bend the legs slightly forward, place the feet on your chest and gently apply pressure. This will push the swing bar at just the right angle to pop it free with little effort, and little stress on the nose hatch. I was pleasantly surprise how easy this was to do.

Too bad the panel lines are so thin - I can't cheat and use a 0.3 mm pencil like a ususally do :huh: .

Posted

After taking out a book on banishing evil spirits, hanging garlic around my room, painting pagan symbols on my walls, I am happy to say that my second 1/60 has not befallen any evillness and is perfect.

Loving the size of the stand-alone's box. It's perfect. Kinda sucks that I only have a Super 1S but I hardly care about that.

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