schmungbeen Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 Quick qualification: I said 180 dollar australian toy... I meant to say $180 AU for a japanese toy... Just in case it comes up... I wouldnt pay $180 for an australian toy no matter how much steak was in it. re. the joints, theres not much to do wrong - its just made that way.
geepogi Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 actually my 1A wasn't floppy to begin with. after several transformations to gerwalk, i noticed one of the knee joints becoming loose. the looseness is side to side, not front to back.
Javabean Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 Actually my 1D all joints are rather tight, esp the shoulder joints. I hv to loosen up the screws as I worry the tightness may crack the hinge in long term somehow
wizartar Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 Have to admit I never noticed the seem line until he pointed it out. Thanks for ruining it for me! You're welcome!
miriya Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 LOL, you're doing your joints wrong! I remember the first time my dad told me that! And he rolls them backwards!
VFTF1 Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 I don't know about everybody else, but standard operating procedure for the upper thighs/upper legs in battroid mode is to wedge them in between those two protruding lumps just above the nose cone. Technically - the joint inside the upper thigh (the one that allows for Gerwalk configuration) is the one that ought to move when you want your battroid to "go forward" - not the joint connected to the T-bar. If you wedge the upper thigh between the two stubs above the nose properly - then the legs will not "flop" back no matter what you do. I sincerely believe that this is the intended and proper design of the VF-1 in general. Given the placement of the wings, it's obvious this thing was not meant to have its' upper thigh joints "swing back" anyways - but rather, the legs are meant to move along the axis of the ratchet joint inside the upper thigh that also activate Gerwalk mode. So - there is no "floppiness" problem - just stick the thigh into the stubs Pete defending Yamato at every step
schmungbeen Posted March 11, 2009 Posted March 11, 2009 I don't know about everybody else, but standard operating procedure for the upper thighs/upper legs in battroid mode is to wedge them in between those two protruding lumps just above the nose cone. Technically - the joint inside the upper thigh (the one that allows for Gerwalk configuration) is the one that ought to move when you want your battroid to "go forward" - not the joint connected to the T-bar. If you wedge the upper thigh between the two stubs above the nose properly - then the legs will not "flop" back no matter what you do. I sincerely believe that this is the intended and proper design of the VF-1 in general. Given the placement of the wings, it's obvious this thing was not meant to have its' upper thigh joints "swing back" anyways - but rather, the legs are meant to move along the axis of the ratchet joint inside the upper thigh that also activate Gerwalk mode. So - there is no "floppiness" problem - just stick the thigh into the stubs Pete defending Yamato at every step Agreed... The joint thats loose-ish is the one connecting the t-bar to the leg - but as you said, the figure bends at the ratcheted joint below - so I can still get the range of poses out of the 1D that I can out of all the other valks. BUT if i wanted to open up the wings (which provide a back-up prop for the legs) I would risk the thing falling off the shelf! And we wouldnt want that...
Californium Posted March 11, 2009 Posted March 11, 2009 So, I'm actually thinking thinking about getting the Super Ostrich. It would be my first version 2 yammie. But if I get one I'd probably like to get rid of that rainbow coating on the canopy. Is there a safe and reliable way of removing that film?
Folka Posted March 11, 2009 Posted March 11, 2009 Just use a small amount of paint thinner i guess. It might just be me but the rainbow paint barely shows up when you see it in person.
schmungbeen Posted March 11, 2009 Posted March 11, 2009 Just use a small amount of paint thinner i guess. It might just be me but the rainbow paint barely shows up when you see it in person. Same with mine - nowhere near as noticeable as on the other valks
m0n5t3r Posted March 11, 2009 Posted March 11, 2009 Agreed... The joint thats loose-ish is the one connecting the t-bar to the leg - ... you can slide out the whole thigh/leg assembly and tighten the screw that holds the two-part thingy that encloses the actual metal ball joint... or unscrew and remove it and coat the metal ball joint w/ whatever will stick to it (nail polish doesn't stick to metal that well)...
DarrinG Posted March 11, 2009 Posted March 11, 2009 Agree with the canopy rainbow thing, can't hardly see it in person. The photo studio lightly brings it out or something.
diabloM Posted March 11, 2009 Posted March 11, 2009 So, I'm actually thinking thinking about getting the Super Ostrich. It would be my first version 2 yammie. But if I get one I'd probably like to get rid of that rainbow coating on the canopy. Is there a safe and reliable way of removing that film? you might like it when u see it in person...
eugimon Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 oooh, awesome. And ol'Hikaru sure does look better with a face.
miriya Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 finally got my 1D... here it is w/ FPs It looks Awesome with the FP!!! I need to get a set for my vf-1d too.
m0n5t3r Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 things that i've noticed w/ the 1D - the serrations on one side of the pin for the shoulder hinge are unnoticeable compared to my other v2s... there are slight discolorations on the plastic on the front side of the shoulder armor likely due to them rubbing against each other in Fighter mode. i noticed this on my 1S after a few transformations and figured it was because of the black paint... love the color!... it's just screaming to be noticed... no cracked hinges, everything is tight all around... my new fave valk...
edwin3060 Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 this is real or is a fan made??? I guess that would require you to order a new cockpit section from Overdrive? Amazing work though.
Folka Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 This is a question in general for any V2 valks, but i noticed a crack on one of the hinges that hold the chest and fuselage together and a slight stress mark on the other hinge. I've glued them but has anyone else had that problem? I guess i'm just applying too much force since its kinda difficult to pull the fuselage out and in.
m0n5t3r Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 This is a question in general for any V2 valks, but i noticed a crack on one of the hinges that hold the chest and fuselage together and a slight stress mark on the other hinge. I've glued them but has anyone else had that problem? I guess i'm just applying too much force since its kinda difficult to pull the fuselage out and in. hinge that connects the chest and the metal part/LERX where the cockpit/fuselage slides in? that's weird... no cracks or stress marks here...
Folka Posted March 14, 2009 Posted March 14, 2009 (edited) Hm well the hinges are the ones that hold the metal piece where the fuselage slides on. Basically the ones next to the head on the left and right side. I'm not that worried about it completely breaking since the plastic seems fairly think. Maybe i'm just doing something wrong or something. Well its ok now, and its not stopping me from transforming or getting more VFs, but its just something I wanted to get out there. Edited March 14, 2009 by Folka
jenius Posted March 16, 2009 Posted March 16, 2009 I know I'm a little late on this but I've just posted an update to my review of the original Yamato 1/60 VF-1D toy that includes a few comparison pics to the V2. Here's a sample A post completely dedicated to the VF-1D should be up in a day or so.
edwin3060 Posted March 16, 2009 Posted March 16, 2009 Wow I get what you guys are talking about now when you say that the v2 is more cartoonish. Thanks for the pics Jenius!
jenius Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) Full review with tons of larger pics is up on my site. Now I'm going to go celebrate my tiny sliver of Irish heritage Edited March 18, 2009 by jenius
m0n5t3r Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) nice review... no score? you mentioned in your review that your 1J's legs don't click all the way forward... maybe you just forgot to extend the legs at the knee joint coz i noticed in the b-mode comparison pic that the 1D is a bit taller than the 1S coz it's legs are extended whereas the 1S's are not... just an observation... EDIT - also noticed that the chest is not locked down properly... i forgot this too until yesterday, but i think i prefer it not locked down fully so that the mini priest collar doesn't show... Edited March 18, 2009 by m0n5t3r
jenius Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 (edited) Yes, my 1J I had a hard time extending the legs fully and that was the issue, the 1D was like butter though. The 1S doesn't have its legs extended in the comparison pic because I skipped GERWALK mode in the transformation so I didn't feel the need... although I guess since I was doing a pic of them all standing together I should have. On the scores - I just didn't feel it was different enough to warrant one, same with the VF-1J. Edited March 18, 2009 by jenius
danth Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 I don't know if this has already been noticed and mentioned here, but it looks like the chest on the new 1D doesn't slide down as far in battroid mode as the other new VF-1's. Check out your comparison shots, Jenius. Is that just how it transforms, or did you not push it down all the way?
Recommended Posts