decal problem - decal wrinkled badly

[kkx]

Hi,

I know that from reading on the web that using micro sol on decal will wrinkle them up and as it dried, it will become smooth again.

This is true for me most of the time, but on occasion, the wrinkle never goes away:

It is not so obvious in the picture, but in real life, you can see it very clearly at some angle. I hope to avoid this in future, but I have no idea what I did wrong.

Did I put too much micro sol too soon?

[promethuem5]

I've had problems with Hasegawa decals and setting solutions before... I use Poly softeners brand, but they are effectively the same stuff, and when I applied it to the decals on my YF-19, some of the decals completely curled and up melted... you could try applying a little more and re-softening it and seeing if they flatten out more...

[kkx]

Thanks, I will try that and see.

[Grayson72]

I only use that stuff on the areas that really need to be stuck down into cracks and stuff. I don't think it's really necessary to spread it all over the entire decal, you'll have much less trouble if you use it sparingly only where it's really needed.

[azrhino]

As stated earlier, apply some more MicroSol and after the decal has softened up again, CAREFULLY (I can't stress this enough ) use the brush to smooth out the wrinkles. Work from the center of the decal out to the edges to make sure there is no trapped air under the decal.

Another trick I have used is to carefully sand down the ridges of the wrinkled decal, and then touch up the white spots that are created with paint. After you seal the decals with a coat of Future and then apply a dull coat, the repair is almost invisible.

[MechTech]

Sometimes the solution can be strong for the decal being used. Thin it with a little water (separate solution in a little cup). And what everyone else said too! I always put a puddle of water in the area and place the decal on top of it. I sponge out the water and no air usually gets inside as a result. The water also thins the solution some. Before all the water goes, I position it and give it a good press. If it's long, I use a rolling motion from one end to the other. Theposition holds and the water is driven out. Better success next time! Water slide decals are a pain sometimes! - MT

[kkx]

Thanks guys for the advises.

I think I really use too much of micro-sol. Must be careful with it.

I still have some decals to apply for this VF-0S, so will start practising with these and hopefully avoid further problems.

[David Hingtgen]

Try some MicroSET in the future. It's not as strong as MicroSOL.

[Berttt]

also, for a non setting solution option, use warm water to dip your decal in, then use a soft clean cloth dipped in the hottest water you can stand, ring out the excess and pad down the decal with the now ho towel works a treat for getting decals to conform.

[kkx]

Micro set? Ok, have a bottle somewhere, will try that.

The hot tower idea seems interesting, never imagine it will work. Thanks for sharing. I might use qtip to avoid burning my fingers.

[Fly4victory]

The hot tower idea seems interesting, never imagine it will work. Thanks for sharing. I might use qtip to avoid burning my fingers.

Don't know how it will work after the setting solution but I have tried the hot water with a clean/new #1 paint brush and q tip.

Very nerve-wracking but works.

[big F]

Ive had the same happen to me and I have found that using it as Mechtech, Berttt and AZrhino sugested works the best.

[Birdman]

As others have already covered, some setting solutions are stronger than others - I always test new products on some spare decals first. If you're building an older kit this will also alert you if the decals have gotten too old, in which case they tend to shatter into a gazillion pieces when you put them in water. In your case, I would try applying setting solution a second time and just let them sit - DO NOT TOUCH! They may settle and smooth out when they dry. Things don't look too bad in your photos though, so maybe an extra clear-coat will hide any issues. The sanding trick definitely works, but I'd consider that as a last ditch option.

Going in the opposite direction, I once thinned a clear-coat too much and accidentally discovered that Tamiya Acrylic Paint Thinner (X-20A) can double as very strong decal setting solution. If its undiluted it will melt decals - not normally desired but can be useful at times when you're working a really stubborn area.

BTW, since I'm new here, my experience comes from building 1/48 WWII fighters. Though I have very little time for that these days....

cheers

[kkx]

Thanks BigF and Birdman.

I reapply the setting solution a few times and it did get a bit better. Didn't completely fix the problem but after some weathering and clear coat, seems like I can live with it. The wrinkle don't shows too much. I am lucky this time I guess. Will show some pictures when my kit is ready.

I will definately takes all the advise given here when I work on my next project. It pay to be careful about using setting solution.

I definately need more practice with decal.

I do have a few quite old kits, I will need to be very careful wiht the decal. I might scan it and reprint it if I can, but decal printing is another area that is difficult for me. Can't seems to find any good source of custom decal printing yet.

[cowie165]

Try some MicroSET in the future. It's not as strong as MicroSOL.

For info, microset ~= white vinegar

Works just the same, and a lot cheaper. There's bit of a write-up on ARC for those who are interested.

[big F]

For info, microset ~= white vinegar

Works just the same, and a lot cheaper. There's bit of a write-up on ARC for those who are interested.

so putting microset on your chips is not a good idea then.