mslz22 Posted March 14, 2008 Author Posted March 14, 2008 Just a note to let everyone know these are starting to ship, i do not think i need to make any instructions but here are a few pointers.... 1.Make sure that you have a square on hand to make sure the back and side walls are glued up at 90 degrees/ 2. I suggest painting the panels seperately before assembly 3. When assembling the gantry be sure that the 2 parts glue up to 90 degrees, they should but if there is any stray due to casting you can make small adjustments by sanding the joint before gluing. 4.If making more than 1 bay you can use some strip styrene to cover any joints if you do not want to fill the seam with putty, it's easier to use the stryrene and you can paint the strip then glue everything together. 5.If you want to use your wall panel extentions flat instead of angled you may want to sand the angled edge flat, you can also run the part thru on a table saw if you would like. 6.Have fun with it....... Colors i used on mine, the base color is Walmart equipment grey primer, just about a buck at Walmart, Tamiya Dark Yellow, and Tamiya Haze Grey for the floor accents, both rattle cans. Let me know if you need any help with the assembly... thanks mike Quote
miriya Posted March 15, 2008 Posted March 15, 2008 Just a note to let everyone know these are starting to ship, i do not think i need to make any instructions but here are a few pointers.... Thank you so much Mike. That is all really helpful for me (a total noob). I really appreciate the pointers! I got Medium Sea Gray (RAF) for the floor, Light gun metal for the walls, gun metal for the door, and Camel Yellow for the Gantries. I also got a Weathering Master for the details (Orange Rust, Gun Metal, Silver). I think these colors should work out for me. I will be really happy though if mine turns out 1/2 as cool as yours! I will post my finished kit here (whenever that will be?). Do you recommend that I wash the parts with Comet or Soap and Water before applying the primer layer? Quote
mslz22 Posted March 15, 2008 Author Posted March 15, 2008 Do you recommend that I wash the parts with Comet or Soap and Water before applying the primer layer? I do not use any mold release, only a bit of baby powder, I still reccomend washing the parts but you do not need to go crazy, light soap and make sure the parts are dry before painting. A good auto primer applied in light coats should give you a great surface to paint on..... mike Quote
miriya Posted March 15, 2008 Posted March 15, 2008 I do not use any mold release, only a bit of baby powder, I still reccomend washing the parts but you do not need to go crazy, light soap and make sure the parts are dry before painting. A good auto primer applied in light coats should give you a great surface to paint on..... mike Great. Thanks. I have some Tamyia Spray primer. I am guessing that will work fine. What is an auto primer? Quote
miriya Posted March 17, 2008 Posted March 17, 2008 Should I use epoxy to glue the pieces together or will superglue work? Will they hold after painting? Quote
mslz22 Posted March 17, 2008 Author Posted March 17, 2008 Gap filling superglue should be fine, the way i did it was to hold the back panel, sidepanel, and floor together with the help of a square. I then put a large drop of the medium gap filling superglue in the back (so it did not get on the paint) joint where the 3 meet. The capliary action of the glue carries it down the joint for a strong joint, you can then sneak a little where the floor and the back wall meet. If you are doing more than 1 set, use the technique above and build on once that has set up strong. For the wall extension glue the wall support part to the wall extension first, check the length as trimming may be needed, then glue the wall extension to the back and side wall. thanks mike Should I use epoxy to glue the pieces together or will superglue work? Will they hold after painting? Quote
Ghadrack Posted March 18, 2008 Posted March 18, 2008 Writing up my order now. Thanks for the unique, original and useful offering! Quote
mslz22 Posted March 19, 2008 Author Posted March 19, 2008 Just wanted to be sure you got my response, your email seems to have bounced back to me, pm me here if you need more info.... thanks mike Writing up my order now. Thanks for the unique, original and useful offering! Quote
Ghadrack Posted March 19, 2008 Posted March 19, 2008 Payment sent, I'm not sure what happened with the E-Mail but I got your PM, thanks! Quote
MacrossMan Posted March 26, 2008 Posted March 26, 2008 Any chance of you selling any pre-painted and assembled kits? I wouldn't dare take a stab at attempting to paint and build this. Quote
miriya Posted April 12, 2008 Posted April 12, 2008 Mslz22, Thank you for the Macross Factory Diorama Kit. I just got it! I have opened it up and taken a look. I am so happy to have it in my hands and will start preping soon. I will post progress on this thread. The parts look great and all the details look really bad ass. Also, thanks for casting it in gray resin. I am almost tempted to glue it together with no paint! But I did buy a whole bunch of Tamiya rattle cans that I want to try out on this. Thanks again. This is a great project. BTW, how many casts do you have left on the mold? How many more orders could you accommodate? Just curious for now. Quote
miriya Posted April 18, 2008 Posted April 18, 2008 I will post progress as soon as possible. I have taken some photos. I have cut some resin. I have sanded some stuff. And of course have made some mistakes that are easily fixable. I am so very excited about this project. I am hoping to have all my parts preped and ready to primer coat by Saturday. And again I could easily have just glued this thing together without much work and without painting and it would still look great. You will see when i post my prep pics on Sat. . . Quote
miriya Posted April 19, 2008 Posted April 19, 2008 unpreped, unpainted, just taped together for mock up visualization.... Quote
miriya Posted April 19, 2008 Posted April 19, 2008 After some exacto, sanding, saw, and filling (have yet to clean up the filling)... Quote
MechTech Posted April 20, 2008 Posted April 20, 2008 Thanks for sharing! That looks like an awesome set up. Man I got an ichin' to get some more styrene and resin work done. All the carbon fiber stuff is messy and just doesn't have the same satisfaction; no matter how high tech it is! - MT Quote
007-vf1 Posted April 20, 2008 Posted April 20, 2008 (edited) After seeing that panel combination I am still a little puzzled about the set up of the rotating ramp on the floor panel .. On my observation a mecha should rest on it and be rotated for easier fix and/or inspection (specially if it is broken or disarmed). That meaning that the gantry should stay relatively close or surrounding this rotating platform. I only purchased a wall and floor panel but if I place the wall panel (the set that contains the door) aligned with the rotating platform on the same adjacent side then the rotating platform ends right by the door which in my opinion looks like the wrong spot. Why would the sucker get through the door just to turn around..? The only way I found to fix this is cutting the floor in half and turn the rotating platform around so stays adjacent to the wall where the door doesn't match. Thus having a more suitable place for the gantry. I am not bashing about the built or the molding/creation quality here. I am just observing what i found something that to my opinion is not correct and found a solution in case someone else finds this and sees it my way. This is left to anyone's build up interpretation... Edited April 20, 2008 by 007-vf1 Quote
miriya Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 After seeing that panel combination I am still a little puzzled about the set up of the rotating ramp on the floor panel .. On my observation a mecha should rest on it and be rotated for easier fix and/or inspection (specially if it is broken or disarmed). That meaning that the gantry should stay relatively close or surrounding this rotating platform. I only purchased a wall and floor panel but if I place the wall panel (the set that contains the door) aligned with the rotating platform on the same adjacent side then the rotating platform ends right by the door which in my opinion looks like the wrong spot. Why would the sucker get through the door just to turn around..? The only way I found to fix this is cutting the floor in half and turn the rotating platform around so stays adjacent to the wall where the door doesn't match. Thus having a more suitable place for the gantry. I am not bashing about the built or the molding/creation quality here. I am just observing what i found something that to my opinion is not correct and found a solution in case someone else finds this and sees it my way. This is left to anyone's build up interpretation... Sure, that is a good point. However if it was where it "should" be, just in front of and under the gantry, then you would not see that detail much when the valk is standing there, whereas the place where it is now the detail is visible (albeit not functionally making perfect sense). Personally this is a detail that I am not worried about. However I will be curious to see how your modification turns out with splitting the floor. Please do post pics when you do it. Quote
miriya Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 Thanks for sharing! That looks like an awesome set up. Man I got an ichin' to get some more styrene and resin work done. All the carbon fiber stuff is messy and just doesn't have the same satisfaction; no matter how high tech it is! - MT Cool! I look forward to seeing your works. Quote
mslz22 Posted April 21, 2008 Author Posted April 21, 2008 Hey Guys, sorry i have not been around in a couple of weeks, kids school vacation and my wife kept me busy every minute of it...anyway first off the last remaining orders are shipping between today and Wed. To answer a couple of the ?'s 1. These will still be available for a while, the molds are holding up fine.... 2. As for the choice of where to put the rotating ramp, it was put there for a couple of reasons.....it was not meant to be an exclusive detail to gantry, in fact on mine i have a valk sitting on it in fighter mode and another valk standing behind it under the gantry. If you had a sidewall you can prop up the gantry on the sidewall and put a valk or mech under it on the ramp. Also keep in mind that this whole thing was built trying to keep in as nonspecific and versitile as possible, part of my reasoning was the people would want to display as many things on it as possible, getting the best "bang for your buck" i.e fitting mech whereever you can on the floor.... thanks mike Quote
nightmareB4macross Posted April 21, 2008 Posted April 21, 2008 Those are really nice. How much longer are you going to have these available? Quote
mslz22 Posted April 22, 2008 Author Posted April 22, 2008 At least until the end of the summer... mike Those are really nice. How much longer are you going to have these available? Quote
miriya Posted August 12, 2008 Posted August 12, 2008 (edited) Well, finally I have built this kit. It looks quite cool considering it is my first completed model kit. If I were to do this again I would not have used the gun metal greys for the walls but something more flat and I would have made the door more different in color than the walls. But I am still happy. I will post some pics now and then when I set it up with the valks in my collection I will post some more.... Edited August 12, 2008 by miriya Quote
Kicker773 Posted August 12, 2008 Posted August 12, 2008 looks nice miriya!! so are these still available? or is there going to be a 2nd run? if there is perhaps making it a little bigger for the 1/48 =) Quote
miriya Posted August 12, 2008 Posted August 12, 2008 (edited) Thanks! I think he still has some kits available. You should PM him. It actually works decently for the 1/48 in fighter mode but in battroid it is taller than the door. Works great for 1/60 (vf-1) though. The kit was actually really easy to build and I think it looks great even without painting it. Edited August 12, 2008 by miriya Quote
Valkyrie addict Posted August 13, 2008 Posted August 13, 2008 ohh nice....VF-1D and super ostrick, siiiiick, nice idea by just putting the canopy sorta 'slide back' hahaha... very nice...that Nora is huge, and is that a little red milia in the corner? hahaha Quote
miriya Posted August 13, 2008 Posted August 13, 2008 ohh nice....VF-1D and super ostrick, siiiiick, nice idea by just putting the canopy sorta 'slide back' hahaha... very nice...that Nora is huge, and is that a little red milia in the corner? hahaha Thanks. I love the way these two look together. Yeah, Nora is the biggest toy I have (I am pretty sure she is bigger than the SDF-1). And indeed it is a tiny little milia in the corner. It is one of those Super Deformed ones (A christmass gift from Misterryno). Quote
miriya Posted August 13, 2008 Posted August 13, 2008 Has anyone else who got one of these kits, built it yet? I would love to see what other people do with theirs. Quote
miriya Posted December 12, 2008 Posted December 12, 2008 Am I the only one who got one of these? If anyone else did please post your work. I wanna see! Quote
ron5864 Posted December 13, 2008 Posted December 13, 2008 I thought there were a least a couple more members who have finished one of these kits. Maybe theirs are not as display worthy yet. Quote
HWR MKII Posted December 13, 2008 Posted December 13, 2008 Are these still available? i may be able to get one soon. Quote
miriya Posted April 19, 2009 Posted April 19, 2009 I think there may be a few of us interested in these kits now. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? mslz22 had mentioned that he could start casting again in the spring. I bet that if enough of us show interest then we could get him to do a run of these. Chime in if you are interested. Mods, hope it's Ok to start a new thread, I don't want this getting lost in the other long thread, and this is to show off the finished product. See below on for pics of a quick and dirty build with some Mecha in scales form 1/55-1/72. Panels can be assembled in a number of configurations, floor panels can be flipped either way, so can the sidewall panel, the wall extension panel can be installed flat or angled, gantry can be built with our without the extensions, this was made so you can pick and choose what you would like to do with it depending on what you want to display on it. You should expect some minor fitting depending on how you want to put the parts together. Decals are not included, the white lettering you see is vinyl letters from Michaels, $4.00 will get you more than you need. The shelf you see is a standard sized Lack shelf from Ikea approx 10 1/2x 42 inches, runs about $14.00 at Ikea and you could fit up to 3 full panels across. For Macross purposes i would say this is suitable for 1/55-1/72 scale, for Gundam etc, i am not sure but any Mecha that is in the 6"-12" tall ballpark should look good. PM or email me at salzo1@aol.com with your order using the A,B,C,D for the panels or Gantry for the set, let me know how many of each you would like. Shipping is not included in the prices and final shipping will be determined by your location and the weight of your total order, i will email or PM you back a total price with shipping. thanks mike more Quote
MechTech Posted April 19, 2009 Posted April 19, 2009 I forgot all about those. It's not in my scale, but I know there WAS a lot of interest! - MT Quote
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